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murphaph

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Everything posted by murphaph

  1. That would be a shame indeed and if the rumour mill is correct and MM retain exclusive ownership (unlike the situation with the 071 & 201) then the modification using the Lokprogrammer based on US throttle controls would sadly not be an option.
  2. Would it not be the other way around? Beautiful work that can really be considered art.
  3. Cheers for the clarification Noel. I picked up a used Lokprogrammer on eBay already and I can get used Loksound V4 units for €80 so that's the direction I'm heading in for those two classes as I will have quite a good few locos to equip. I can live with "good but not the best" given the significant savings across a fleet of what will be around 30 or 40 locos in the end. From my understanding the Lokprogrammer allows you to reformat any v4 project to v5 so even if I can no longer get the v4s I should have a fallback.
  4. What is the difference between a "genuine" MM decoder for the 201 and 071 and a self programmed Loksound V4 using the ESU projects which are available to download for those two models specifically? Is there any difference? From reading the ESU page it sounds (haha) as if these are the projects that were used by MM (it says OEM) themselves.
  5. It would make a great feature if you could recreate slip coaches in model form.
  6. Ken, thanks for your explanation. It is certainly worth bearing in mind for certain sections of my layout and doubtless for others. For my layout I will almost certainly be starting with soldering directly to copper clad, simply because the first part of the layout to receive track will be either the difficult to see eye level (but set back from the viewer tight to the wall) section or the hidden staging stuff which can look as rough as a badger's behind but actually needs to be the most reliable track of all as access later will not be the easiest. I anticipate a long testing phase before the scenic layer can be begun. All my stock will need converting and at least a couple of examples of each type of stock need to "be cleared" over the hidden areas before they are built over.
  7. If you have any and are prepared to part with them (postage or collection to/in Dublin or Berlin areas) please drop me a line with your asking price. Thx, Phil.
  8. I will keep an eye out for it but it's not easy to find.What's the difference between that one and the pragmatic Guide to building, wiring and laying PCB track by the same author?
  9. Yeah my bank balance knows how expensive stocking the layout is Anyway it's a nice complaint to have. It wasn't that long ago we had no real RTR options to blow money on! Interesting idea with the regauge for the fiddle yard. Is that going to work out cheaper/faster? Don't I still need to solder copper sleepers every few inches anyway?
  10. Unfortunately money is an issue and as my layout will have lots of track and many dozens of points, saving money by by building those myself is financially attractive, even if it's much slower. I can use the money saved on great quality kits and RTR items that I could not realistically manufacture myself in the number of years I have left on this green earth! I will make the off scene stuff and much of the eye level mainline track panels in jigs to speed up production and build the waist height station trackwork in situ most likely. But I'll have to get a feel for it. Seems it's a matter of personal taste.
  11. Anyone interested in a swap for an unopened MM1508 in the Dublin area? I'm in Germany but the coach is at the home place in Newcastle still in the parcel it arrived in. You could combine handover with a little visit to Marks Models around the corner I'd take a mint standard class Craven (either livery) or a mkIId anything except restaurant cars in tippex livery. If interested please PM me.
  12. From the bit of reading I've done elsewhere, it seems if you buy the vees rather than making them, the cost rises dramatically. Would you agree? I will have an awful lot of points to make and I think I will need to be able to master custom frog angles etc. rather than rely on predetermined crossing angles, or am I wide of the mark with that assumption? I'm happy that I will be able to hand file the rails with some practice. I do hand file my chainsaw chain after all lol. I'm also not a total novice with a soldering iron. I have an electronics background.
  13. More Great tips. To be honest I am not going to be a stickler for this rail at that location. I just want to avoid the uniformity of cwr. I am happy to proceed using primarily flat bottomed rail for the main lines. Sidings I'm thinking should look lighter though. Let's say I use this approach (FB for mainline and bullhead for the sidings). Would that work and be somewhat realistic? If so, can someone advise which actual peco product numbers would correspond? John I appreciate that it's a much longer road to running trains but I've been waiting long enough so I may as well take that bit longer and do it the way I want. I'll work in modules so I will be able to play trains even before the whole thing is eventually done. I would probably start with the shelf section for ease of access and to have trains running while I model the lower "main deck". A layout like mine will need a large off scene storage area (fiddle yard/Schattenbahnhof) with long dead straight sections. Is there any approach to this sort of off scene track to speed up construction? Just wider spacing of the copper and sleepers?
  14. Weinert do some peco track and their own plastic chairs if I choose to use them (h0 but might work) but I'm pretty sure I will have to source most of my materials in the UK. It's not so bad as I can redirect parcels via NI and have them delivered to my family home in Dublin. I'm home often enough to just pick it up there.
  15. That would be very helpful. Your lists are both very helpful also. I'll start gathering those things.
  16. What are the bare minimum tools I will need to make a set of points? I see all manner of things available but what do you experienced guys consider the must haves? You can assume I will join the EMGS to gain access to their information and stores.
  17. My planned layout (the"big idea" in my head) involves the Limerick Junction to Limerick line (possibly with branch to Foynes and an off-scene Castlemungret cement factory), with Limerick Station and Limerick Junction being the two main areas of interest, all modelled at waist height. Then (connected via helixes) a narrow shelf layout at slightly below eye level running all around the room (10*30 feet), carrying the Dublin-Cork mainline (really just a section of it north of Limerick Junction). I am looking to model the early to mid 90s before CWR. Am I right in thinking that bullhead would be appropriate for the mainline? What about the rest? Edit, I've just realised this is all a bit of a thread hijack on my part. I do apologise. I think I should move this to its own thread maybe.
  18. I'll try to get that thanks a lot. Mr. Rice's books were generally recommended but I didn't find that one. However I have ordered his "Introduction to 4mm Fine Scale Railway Modelling (RailModel Handbook)" which I found for €10 on Amazon. I will try to get the one you've linked to here as well. I like to read a bit before I attempt something, even if there's a saying in my host nation "Probieren geht über Studieren" (trying to do something is better than just studying it).
  19. Are you guys using jigs to make the vee? A good how-to on YouTube wouldn't go amiss. Anyone know of any? I've ordered a book called "Track" from the 2mm society. They claim much of it is scale independent. I think I will end up joining the EMGS to get access to their stores.
  20. I'm also thinking 21mm to "E"M standards. This really should be called "TOM" (Twenty One Millimetre)!
  21. I see you're building that on your workbench. What is the general consensus on 'where' to build? In-situ or pre-built as the work bench? Just personal taste or advantages for any particular method?
  22. It's really very tempting in my case, despite the fairly big plans I have (the layout room is ca. 10' x 30'). I am at the stage where I haven't put any real money into track. Just a small test oval using H0 track. If I plumped for 21mm I think I would almost certainly want to "keep it simple" (ie not go down the P4 route) as it's the track gauge that bothers me the most, not flange heights etc. I think copper clad sleepers with soldered rails appeals the most to me, perhaps using the 5:1 ratio with ply sleepers. I will have to get a hold of some gauges and whatnot and just build a short stretch and see how I get on.
  23. They are the business. When and where were these used on the network?
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