David Holman

A fascinating project that deserves every success. The variety of computer controlled hardware and it's lowering cost has vast potential for modellers, although the main stumbling block is learning CAD, I think. Master that and the ability to create your own kit is eminently possible. The difference between hand drawn, photo-etched brass kits and computer drawn ones is noticeable in the greater accuracy of the latter. It seems to me that things fit together so much better these days and I'm sure it is not just down to my own skills evolving. I like the idea of being able to create a one off 'kit', where all the flat/non cast parts are drawn and etched, rather than having to go through the tedious process of cutting individual pieces from sheet metal. I know a couple of modellers who now do this. Having learnt CAD, they draw out their chosen items and send the computer file to a professional etcher. The cost of the latter is relatively cheap; design costs however run into four figures if you want somebody to do it for you. Maybe one day, we will be able to 'ask Alexa' (other smart speaker devices also exist) to 'make me a drawing of an Achilles Bogie'. However, guess by then, Alexa could probably rustle up a 3D printed version, though that would take away all the fun of building it.

Uckfield By and large, Fintonagh's debut went well, though not without a couple of early problems. Setting up was quick and easy, but trying to run trains was a different matter, with a short as soon as power was applied. Not good when there is less than an hour before Joe Public arrives... Happily, the problem was soon traced to two tags behind the controller socket touching each other. A quick tweak and all was well; am guessing I must have pushed them together when carrying the layout to/from the car. However, no sooner that problem solved than the turntable stopped working! Lots of noise, but no movement. Fortunately the gearbox is easy to dismantle and just putting it back together again cured the problem. So, third time lucky and we were away. The only problems after that were down to the couplings. The rare earth magnets largely work well with the Kadee No5s, but are not perfect. The main issue is sighting the uncoupling points obliquely from either end of the the layout, which is front operated. The 'window' is probably less than 5mm, so it is as well that all the locos run nicely, though there was a bit to much to-ing and fro-ing to begin with until we got our eye in. One or two wagons were reluctant to couple up, so I guess things were about 80-90% efficient. Equally, as a first experience of operating from the front [with 90+ shows under my belt], it turned out not bad at all. Sitting on high stools certainly saves aching feet at the end of the show. The LED lighting strips, one towards the rear and one just under the front pelmet, seem to give just the right amount of illumination, with the 'cool white tones' giving a good colour balance too. Meanwhile, as a small layout, just eight trips are needed to/from the car and much to our surprise, we were driving away just 15 minutes after the show ended. There are only four trains at the moment, but the plan is to add a couple more locos, to provide a bit more variety and a degree of insurance in the event of any failures. Lots of people took details, so looks light Fintonagh will be out and about over the next few years.

Looks plenty neat enough and as long as you are enjoying yourself, that is all that matters. Have fun!

Have several from the '60s and very informative they are too.

4mm scale, I presume. Don't suppose there are any in 7mm scale?

First day of layouts debut largely ok, though a short caused a bit of consternation first thing. A few issues with the Kadees, but motive power acquitted itself well. Here's hoping Sunday is at least as good.

Any chance of this little gem appearing in 7mm scale?

Bit like a London bus, recently - nothing for ages then several at once. Worth the wait though! Scenic wizardry.

Saturday 10th November.

Those of you on the other side of the water need to get to Cultra this year, where Andy is showing Castlederg. Super layout, accurately portraying a delightful prototype.

Fettling and finishing touches It is now less than a week to Fintonagh's exhibition debut at Uckfield next weekend. Not the largest show in the country, but definitely one of the finest in terms of layout quality. Manager Adrian Colenutt has become a past-master at fitting a lot in the space available, while the hospitality is very good too. However, this means the layout has to not just look right, but it must run well too, hence the last few weeks being spent in trying to iron out all the faults! I've written elsewhere that this is very much a problem with hand built stuff - or at least it is for me, for I am no expert, but I do work at things in the hope of getting them right, while experience helps too and I have approaching 100 shows under my belt now. Fettling essentially involves running the operating sequence over and over again, making notes of where things go wrong, then investigating the cause in the hope of putting things right. Faults manifest themselves in various ways: Derailments - mostly these are down to back to backs on the wheels. I use 4mm fine scale standards, which means 19.3mm b2b and not much leeway either. Less than 0.5mm out and wagons in particular derail on either the point blades or the crossing vee. Easily solved with a vernier gauge, thankfully Hesitant running - mostly cured by compensated/rocking axles on locos, plus pick ups on all wheels. Couplings - I'm using Kadee No 5s and though they are fairly reliable, they do need careful setting up, especially as I'm also using small 'rare earth' magnets for uncoupling. Practice also important too, stopping trains within a 5mm space requires a degree of concentration. On top of the above, one also has to create a sequence that works simply and effectively, for as well as running the layout, it is always enjoyable talking to visitors and they have paid to come in, so you owe it to them to put on a decent show. In addition to the above, there is of course Sod's Law, which can strike at any time - usually when there is a video camera operating! When [not if, note], this happens, then you just have to grin and bear it, though it is just as well visitors can't hear what I'm thinking! At them moment, the layout is running at about 95% efficiency. Derailments are now only operator error and the locos [as long as track and wheels are clean] are running nicely - even Blackwater, which has had large amounts of lead added to enable it to pull a short coach and two wagons [!]. The problem is it has 30:1 gears as opposed to the 40:1 in sister Erne and it makes quite a difference. Blackwater has caused further headaches, by repeatedly suffering from a loose wheel nut [hopefully now cured with some gloss varnish in the threads] and a broken lead on the motor. The first class bogie coach has caused much head scratching and many rude words, because in one direction, it was derailing on the point entering the station. No amount of wheel checks could sort it, but eventually cured it, by reversing the bogie, so the troublesome wheels were in the inside, not the outside. Fingers crossed now ok. The photos show some of the small details that I've been adding: A small [dummy] ground frame on the platform to operate the points A small section of point rodding [along the platform] and boarding elsewhere to cover the rest, which I really don't want to do! Figures, including a rakish fellow outside Forbes Bar, a flagman guarding the exit from the station and a lady promoting the Temperance Movement outside the tea rooms. Road vehicles are mainly from Arigna, including donkey cart, small lorry and Austin 7 saloon, plus the Model T Ford truck seen earlier. In addition, there has been organising packing and transport, with new stock boxes and trial fitting in the car. Talking to Christopher Payne [also at Uckfield with Pyn Valley Railway [in latest RM], he opined that a layout probably shouldn't be exhibited until it has done at least three shows, to iron out the faults that only ever occur away from home. Difficult, but I know what he means! Wish me luck, or better still, come along and say hello. Uckfield really is a great show.

What an extraordinary edifice that is. Must be one of the larger/est 4mm scale buildings made in recent times. And the ideal view blocker at the end of a scenic section too

Nice work, Ernie. Reminds me of stuff I did in much the same way and nicely illustrates what can be so enjoyable about doing 7mm NG.

Andy Cundick has been doing this on Valencia Harbour and latterly Courtmacsherry for years. Have had the pleasure of operating Valencia and the system works perfectly well. A pleasure to operate. Meanwhile, my own Fintonagh does exactly the same, albeit 7mm scale, but to 21mm gauge for 3' gauge. I've used 1mm flangeways on 900mm radius points, with 19- 19.5mm back to backs. What I have found is that, using 4mm finescale wagon wheels on code 83 flat bottomed rail is that there is a lot less margin for error than on Arigna Town, where Slater's 7mm scale wheels work really well on code 100 FB track. Derailments are virtually unknown, even though the gauge varies by up to +/- .5mm. This with a back to back on loco axles that Slater's quote as 33.98mm! On Fintonagh, tolerances are much tighter (using EM standards, as outlined by Mayner), so back to backs cannot be out more than 0.5mm max, or derailments occur on point crossings (frogs). However, apart from a degree of fettling to ensure tolerances are kept within these limits, all works well. The moral of the story, as Andy will tell you, is that 21mm gauge does NOT require P4 standards. EM/4mm finescale is fine! You still need to lay track carefully, but otherwise, it is no harder that doing 00. Whether your models are capable of running with wheels at 19mm back to backs is another matter, but 21mm gauge (or indeed 36.75mm in 7mm scale) looks so much better and if that appeals, this is so worth pursuing.

Very good advice above! The world is full of half made kits started by enthusiastic but inexperienced modellers and Worsley Works stuff are not an easy job. In fact, they are really just an aid to scratch building, saving you having to cut out the major body parts from sheet metal and in that respect they work well. However, Eoin's list shows just how much more you need to source, while the fact that there are no instructions means you need to know a lot about the prototype to put the model together. A decent outline drawing and lots of photos essential here. As the others have said, try something simpler and build up from there. Wagon kits always good as in many ways, coach kits can be harder than locos, because of all the fine detail.

While knowing nothing of the models in question, there are a number of basic factors which can help improve the running of any loco. 1. Cleaning and oiling. Shouldn't be a problem on a new model, but stray paint might have got on the wheel treads. Arigna Town locos are cleaned before and during every show. 2. Pick ups. Are they in contact with the wheels? If not, a bit of gentle tweaking should help. Test by inverting the loco and putting fly leads (I use crocodile clips from my ancient H&M controller) on different pairs of wheels to find the culprit. Pick ups can also be too tight and limit running. Check to see if the motor is getting warm. 3. Add more pick ups! Spread the load over as many wheels and as much length as possible 4. Weight and balance. 4-4-0s can be a problem. Certainly need weight over the driven wheels, but front bogie probably needs springing too. Weight in the tender bearing down on the drawbar to the loco (and hence the drivers) can help. 5. Wheels. Check the back to backs, should be the same. Is there any sign of wobble? Are crank pins ok? If the loco stops, at low speed, at the same point (eg 3 o'clock), quartering may be the problem, or the crank pin holes may need opening out a little. The above are the common ones when kit building, but take nothing for granted. Having run ok for several days of testing, one of Fintonaghs's locos became rough. Turned out a wheel nut had worked loose. On another occasion, a lump of foam from the scenery had somehow got into the mechanism! Sod's Law applies at all times!

Not just a maker of fine buildings then. Not surprised! Evergreen strip has got very expensive of late - about 50p per piece/£5.00 a pack. Potentially cheaper to buy laser cut windows than make them yourself in 7mm scale. Trouble is, you can't always get what you want, as Sir Michael once sang.

Thanks chaps! Next outing in a couple of weeks at Fareham, then High Wycombe and Warley in November. Warley probably it's last show for a while as new layout, Fintonagh, makes its debut at Uckfield in October. Can I'll afford to have two layouts doing the rounds and Mrs H would not be pleased either!

Most of my stuff is with enamels, but if you have one, the airbrush method is best. Quicker and doesn't ruin your brushes

As above, but with Humbrol 53, gunmetal as well. Study photos, as rails vary according to location: oily where locos stop (and on fishplates), more rusty (because of brake dust) where trains slow and stop, darker in sidings etc. I do much of the above with weathering powders. If you can get it, a spray can of track colour (Humbrol or Precision), makes painting sleepers easier. Weathering powders and/or airbrush good for local colour as for rails. Colourpoint books great for fine track details.

That chimney was a bit of a give away! Glad I'm not the only one... Great to see things running.

All looks good to me. One piece of advice I was given in my early days of modelling was to always buy the best tools I could afford - something I'm afraid I haven't always kept to! Where I have been lucky is in acquiring old tools from modellers who have given up the hobby. My current favourite is a gauge for measuring thickness of wire, metal sheet etc. Dimensions are read from a clock like dial and it measures down to 0.1mm. Not sure how I ever managed without it.

Interesting. Many thanks chaps.

On both Fintonagh and Arigna Town, I've long fancied having a push button diesel horn & steam whistle, just to add the extra dimension of calling the signalman to change the points for running round. Seems nobody does one, unless it involves DCC sound chips and I do not want to go along that route. Mylocosound used to do something, but were expensive and seem no longer available. Maplins once did a rather cheap and nasty sound kit, but they have gone to the wall too. Any ideas?

Only the sixth floor?! Thank goodness I only have room for three! Splendid, as ever.