David Holman

Presume there is a run round loop somewhere? Otherwise only a turntable or triangle are the only options I can think of to turn a loco. While most Irish termini had a TT, not all did. Valencia Harbour for one, plus most intermediate stations did without too. Some intermediate stations did without a loop and hence could only be shunted in one direction, although chain/rope shunting was resorted to on occasion. Not exactly recommended in 4mm scale! Having said that, Trevor Nunn does it in S gauge and I've had the privilege a couple of times. Great fun, though hard on the nerves...

Hardly a straight bit of track anywhere. The curves flow well too. Lovely!

Let there be light! Ordered Thursday evening, delivered Saturday, such is the service of LED Hut, so quickly tempted to set everything up. I bought a 5 metre roll of 'cool white' self adhesive strip, along with a 2 metre pack of conduit. This comprises a length of extruded aluminium, the same width as the LEDs, a similar length of clear plastic cover for the aluminium, which slots neatly into place, plus some end caps and sprung mounting clips. I cut the aluminium and plastic cover in half to make two one metre units and fitted LED strip in each. A further 2x one metre LED strips were stuck to the underside of the pelmet framing, in order to light the front edge of the layout. Using Arigna Town's LED transformer, I then wired the four sections together, starting from the central support bracket. This has a nine way computer socket fixed to it, enabling the leads from the transformer to be plugged in, out of sight at the back of the layout. At the moment, chocolate block connectors split the incoming leads, one going to each aluminium housing. Further connectors then link each housing to the front pelmet. These connectors will be replaced with jack plug & socket once I can buy some. Not that long ago, there were three Maplin stores locally where you could even shop on a Sunday. No more sadly & the only option now is shopping on line or waiting for a model show. Anyway, much to my surprise [I am always surprised when my electrics work], it all works just fine and the two [2 metre] LED strips provide what seems to be the right amount of light, though I'll leave the final decision on that to the punters at Uckfield in October. The rear strips are about 15cm from the back scene. Buoyed by this success, I've been attempting to fill in some of the details still required on the scenic section. I'd liked to have put another coat of paint on the fascias & pelmet, but 30c+ heat hereabouts is stopping the earlier coats hardening properly, so I've got to wait. Instead, I've made and planted a load of nettles, which now adorn the base of the hoarding and are around the big tree. This afternoon, made up some basic [cosmetic] point levers, plus some boarding to cover the point mechanisms. Haven't yet decided whether Fintonagh merits a ground frame. The branch would probably have been one engine in steam, so simple ground levers may well suffice. Photos hopefully illustrate my ramblings!

What a beast! This must be one of the largest individual 4mm scale buildings on a private model railway. Can't think of anything comparable, though did see a 13 storey tower block on a 7mm scale American outline model which was similarly impressive. Notable too for its pre dcc Pacific Fast Mail sound system hooked up to the mother and father of all stereo systems with five foot speaker stacks. When the triple unit diesel started up, the earth moved, as did most of your body's internal organs! Presume it will fit through the door to the railway room?!? Stunning stuff.

Excellent advice by Broithe. 550mm is fairly tight as a minimum radius. 600 better, 750, indeed 900 or more ideal, but then few are blessed with such luxuries. Seem to remember mainline diesels could do 12 chains = 66x12= approx 800 feet or 3.2 metres minimum radius!! In dockyards, things got down to 3 chains or less, so maybe 750mm, but certainly not for mainline locos or bogie stock. Transition curves not only help with running, but visually too. Hence you might go down to 450mm radius at the tightest points, but hopefully, these can be hidden behind buildings, scenic features etc, allowing transition points to be more generous - hopefully towards 750mm. Another advantage you have is observing trains from inside the curve, where sharpness is less pronounced that the outside. Likewise, avoiding over long bogie vehicles will be better too. 50' coaches better than 60+, while short, four wheel wagons will be fine.

I dabbled with the idea of 1:50, as 32mm track gives 5'3, while EM track gives 3'. However, it all falls down over wheels. In 7 mm scale a 5'6 driver would be 38.5mm diameter, with, say, 20 spokes. In 6mm(1:50) scale that driver would be 6'6 and should have many more spokes. Hence it is far easier to stick with 7mm and just build the track.

Well inside two feet I'd say!

Ok, been there, got the t-shirt! Correct gauge in 7mm scale is 36.75. Plain track simple, indeed the first piece I made was with code 100fb rail glued to card sleepers with contact adhesive. Assume the the Blessington probably used FB rail so that combination could work on a diorama, but better with solder construction using copper clad sleepers. Marcway of Sheffield my source and they did my points too. At £60 each, they are around 25% more than Peco, but worth it, as being self isolating do not need switches and can be worked by wire in tube. Simples! Honestly, JB, broad gauge is FAR easier in 7mm scale. Slater's wagon and coach wheels are easily moved out to 34mm back to back, while they do a 34mm loco axle as an extra. Everything else is the same as British outline, pretty much, so castings are available from Northamptonshire Models and several other suppliers. Join the Guild for all the trade knowledge and surprise your friends by telling them you have become a 'Gauge 0'... Iain Rice's recent book 'Cameo Layouts' contains a wealth of ideas and inspiration, including track plans, with Gauge 1 diorama in five feet among them. Such a project is a great way to have a dabble in 7mm scale, but beware, it is very addictive!

Decided to stick with LED strip Adrian. LED Hut now do some neat conduit with a clear cover, so am guessing that does the same thing. Feel a bit guilty about the height, Eoin, but many folk now bring small folding stools and we have a couple at home I could take too. Doesn't help the wheel chair users though, so might have to make a periscope like the St Alban's club ones.

Setting up for exhibitions Despite a lack of postings, things have nevertheless been busy hereabouts, though a week in Croatia [very nice too], put the modelling on hold for a bit. Iain Rice's latest book 'Cameo Layouts' has been at the centre of my thinking for a while now & am aiming to make Fintonagh fully framed, so that is what recent work has been all about. Apart from a pelmet to hide the lights, Arigna Town has little in the way of 'framing', but to me, there is now no doubting the impact such things can have visually. A bit like when you crop holiday snaps [or indeed stuff for this site] on the computer, a frame round the layout is very useful in blocking out all that you don't want to be seen. The problem with such things is that, when exhibiting, they are just more stuff to take with you. Hence have been trying to both minimise the individual pieces and make sure as much as possible is fixed using flush mount plates - which are exponentially quicker than using M6 bolts and wing nuts. Hopefully the pictures show what I've been up to. Firstly, the layout sits on two adjustable decorator's trestles, giving a track height of around 48"/120cm. Two folding longitudinal beams support the layout itself, the three sections being held together by just two M6 bolts. The pelmet slots on the front wings with two flush mounts. It is hinged in the middle and will have an LED strip to light the front edge of the scenery. Also on the pelmet are two hinged arms, one each end, which swing out to eventually support another LED unit. There is a central bracket, at the back, which both keeps the back scene aligned and [with a small drop in bolt] the pelmet nice and straight. The lower edge of the layout will have drapes to hide the trestles, but there will also be a slot in display board giving information about the Clogher Valley Railway, layout construction & so on. Current thinking is that the join between the two scenic boards will be hidden by a couple of removable plaques - one with the layout name & the other the CVR crest. Show badges and the like will be banished in order to keep an uncluttered fascia. The sage green colour was chosen to reflect the greens and greys of the foliage and buildings, though still needs at least another coat. Fintonagh's debut is now starting to feel close. Mid October sounds a way off, but it is nearly August and Arigna has two show before then too, so lots still to do!

Really like the way this has been thought out, with trains and traffic all part of the overall concept. Likewise the 'less is more' track plan - the late Richard Chown would certainly approve. One thing to consider though is the preponderance of straight lines, parallel to the baseboard edges. Subtle (sinuous even!), curves are more attractive to the human eye, while avoiding too much parallel to the baseboard edge improves the overall feeling of spaciousness. Making the double loop go diagonally across the boards would be a way of avoiding the three way point, though am sure there is a prototype for it somewhere. Space wasn't usually a problem in Irish country termini, but a harbour setting may well be tighter and need a more fancy track plan like the one shown.

Looks good to me, plus there is a lot of very nice 'gingerbread' detail on these models. How things have changed over the last few years - and still improving too.

A layout that just keeps on giving. I have always loved the 'railway in the landscape' concept, with less = more where track is concerned. Barrow Street is lifting things to new levels with its additional vertical elements. Not something many of us have space for, so all the more admirable.

Many thanks for the kind comments. It is great to know folk think my layouts are capturing the essence of rural Ireland, as that is very much the aim. As far as I'm aware, there is no Irish blood in me, but my visits have always been enjoyable. Inspiration comes from those photographers and authors who recorded the scene in the 30s onwards, so they are a vital source of reference. As my art teacher said many years ago - 'paint what you SEE, not what you think' and this forms the backbone of my modelling. Still doesn't mean I get it right, of course which is why this forum is so important for information and 'proof reading's of finished models.

Oh my. 4mm scale, 10 foot per storey = 180 feet and 720 mm, or two foot six in old money. Wouldn't like to do it in 7mm...

The maximum 'less is more' can be very important in track planning, so try not to be tempted by too much track and enjoy making the railway part of the overall scene.

Visually, keeping the running line radii as generous as possible is very important, though you can always hide the tightest bits with buildings/scenery I guess. Hence, mainline on the outside (where bogie stock will look better) and goods yard inside, where four wheel stock on tighter curves is less intrusive. Mind you, if that inner main line is currently no worse than say 30", it should be ok anyway.

Or Darleks! Not seeing the wheels is a bit of a negative, but their overall charm makes up for it, I think.

Eric and Erne Second Sharp, Stewart 0-4-2T Erne has now joined Eric [aka Blackwater] in the fleet. However, as neither of them have any crew yet, their cab roofs are not fixed. What I can now do is [sort of] recreate the Vic Welch painting on the cover of the original book by Dr Patterson. Erne was spray painted in Ford Laurel Green [using a Halford's spray can] and hand lettered with a fine nibbed dipping pen - initially in white acrylic ink & then gone over with a dark yellow fine marker pen. After, a small amount of shading was put in with a 0.3mm black drawing pen. This method has also enabled me to do the overlapping 'CV' logo on both tanks' sides.

Super NG stock and models, plus I guess the 0 gauge is (slightly) narrow too, but then I would say that! Lovely stuff, either way. Would I be right in thinking the SLNCR 'small tank' is the same a certain Mr Sullivan of this parish, brought to Cultra when Arigna Town was there two years ago? Or, is it the fifth such model I've now seen (my two, Richard Chown's, Des's, plus one more)? Or indeed 6th, as there are two of them. Nice 0-6-0 and 4-4-0 too. Where are they now I wonder?

You're never alone with a clone... Hay fever season in these parts, so despite the nice weather, it is easier for me to lurk in the workshop. Back at Expo Narrow Gauge at the end of October, I bought a second Clogher Valley Sharp Stewart 0-4-2T kit from Ragstone Models. Unusually for me, it has been malingering on a shelf for the last eight months, so it seemed time to get it built, especially as I'd bought the additional bits and pieces from the Branchlines stand at the Chatham exhibition three weeks ago. There is not much point in re-iterating how I built it, for the kit is pretty painless and goes together really well. The etches are very accurate [little filler needed], with good quality castings and sensible instructions. It has got this far in just a week. Hence a clone of Blackwater, the first model. This one will be 'Erne' and as per the colour plate on Dr Patterson's book, is going to be green. As can be seen, it has already been given a witness coat of primer. The chassis rolled beautifully first time the rods were added and, unlike last time, I am not going to faff around with trying to make Joy valve gear as the motion is all hidden under the skirts. The only differences to Blackwater lie under the surface, as I somehow ended up with a 30:1 gearbox, instead of 40:1. Hence Blackwater will not be challenging it to a race.

And Hatton's are bringing one out soon for a mere £750... Am sure there will be plenty of takers, but Eoin's model shows that the journey can be so much more than the destination! As for livery, it is his customer's choice of course, bit for me, growing up by the East Coast mainline, it would have to be Brunswick green. All it needs now will be a rake of ten Gresley coaches...

One of these on my list as a 7mm scale model, so lovely to see it done so well in 4mm. Not tried citrus flux before, but certainly looks decent stuff. My Powerflux works a treat, but requires regular cleaning as I go along or everything will be green next day! Stainless steel sink cleaner does the job though.

Am just starting on researching a future project and am interested in the following, please: Woodwork colours on WLW, MGW and GSR buildings WLW carriage livery in 1900 MGW carriage livery in 1900 GSR carriage livery in the 1930s Have Ernie Shepherd's books on the WLW and MGW, which say crimson lake for the former and brown the latter, but anything more detailed would be appreciated and as for GSR, what best describes 'purple lake'? Realise these things are subjective and rather lost in the mists of time, but any help appreciated.

There is a school of thought that says in smaller scales, well printed papers work just as well as scribed or embossed finishes, especially from normal viewing distances of 60-90cms. What does stand out with Metcalf's parts is the corner joint. Easily covered with individually cut pieces of card and folded round the corners.