murrayec

Hi jhb ...so then I reckon 1:44.3 would be your model scale? Eoin

Hi jhb You'll have to make the track! Best to look at David Holman's threads on Gauge O layouts in spot-on Irish gauge, also he could advise on best approach.... Eoin

Hi Broithe Yes filing cabinets are the one;- Lidl A4 plastic filing cabinet for €10.00 built into a plywood frame on wheels, stores plastic sheet in drawers with slots on top for styrene section and scanner. Wheels in under the bench. This one is again an A4 document storage unit used for tools and modelling stock, these are expensive to buy new but can be found second-hand at better rate. This is Lidl again, deeper A4 drawers, is metal and is on wheels, comes in at around €40.00, I use it for tools and modelling stock also. I worked out the size of the cabinet I will require if I put all the tins and glues in trays- 1m tall with 16 trays! .....well 6 made another 10 to go! Eoin

Paint Tinlet, Jar, glue, and other things storage trays;- In a small workshop like mine as the tins & jars mount up it gets rather difficult to store them and the worst is to access them if in boxes, inevitably the tin your looking for is at the bottom which means all the others have to come out first! These trays made in 3.2mm mdf make the job a breeze, cut to take all sizes, all I do is select the right tray, pop the lid & I'm off painting, the tin stays in the tray so nice and stable, cant be knocked over. Trays can be assigned the most used paints or by colour range, their stackable so handy to store away and I plan to make a container to store the stack.... thats for another day! Eoin

Looking good jhb I would support an extension to this layout, but no address to submit 'Comments & Observations' has been given for the Chief Domestic Officer so therefore I argue that planning permission should be granted by default! Eoin

Nice David I like the display height, it's looking at trains at the right height- side on, and not down onto roofs!! I hope you will consider supplying a small step ladder for the younger viewer? - there was a chap who came to the shows here, he brought his grandchild and a step ladder under arm, when they came to a layout to view the ladder was erected and the boy elevated to view, best bit was- the ladder was placed a safe distance from the layout- out of arms reach! I've not seen him recently, reckon the kid has grown up and now has extended legs! Eoin

Hi jhb Their from Des in SSM In fairness to the chap who recommended Humbrol 27 said it was the starting point he would then weather & dirty it up. We plan to do the same to the J10..... I have been practising;- Eoin

Hi FFT The above text is a cut n paste job from the original discussion on another forum- if you click on the link in the text, the context of the '3 foot GM' will be revealed Eoin

Hi Guys A chap on here in the J10 thread advised to use Humbrol 27 'Matt Sea Grey' Eoin

Excellent work Ken Best way to do projects, all together! each process assists in each project, and repetition makes the work better... I have Mr Bolton's book on building 0-6-0 J15 (British), excellent info. The tank loco one is on my to get list Eoin

Hi All Apologies for not having next months flyer at the Fair yesterday- two patrons were disappointed as they are collecting the flyers! Date is now confirmed;- I will also bring along flyers for this Fair, so that those two chaps will be able to complete the set! Eoin

We had a boat, not the size your talking! it had a Volvo Penta Diesel- if you ran the engine for any considerable time and one was sitting down, one got 'white Bum' you know like 'White Finger' using a B&D mouse sander... Eoin

Yes Borithe the main problem with steam loco design, - build it big and hefty, replace it when it comes loose, and no need to change the existing design 'because it works'. This is the design ethos that got steam a bad name... Motor bikes got smoother when the Japs got involved with their lightweight engineering and more modern ways of thinking! I have a few British made 'Thumpers' - a 1961 BSA C15T 250cc single is the worst- at about 30mph the vibrations make it difficult to hold the bars, above that it smooths out again, then close to 60mph about as fast as I dared to go- your vision blurs, there is a brand new Alpha big end bearing kit installed n all! Eoin

Hi KMCE It's quartered, the chap who built the chassis has the left side leading The wheel balance weights are essential on large wheels to counter-balance the weight of the crankpin boss cast in the wheel, the crankpin, and the motions. The inside cylinder is far ahead of the outside ones because the drive is taken from the front axle and the radius rod driving the valve needs to be as long as possible to set up the correct motion angles with the combining and anchor links to control lap and lead to the valve ports..... Eoin

Spot on Broithe Could not have said it better myself, a bit of an engineer in yeah... Eoin

Hi all Don't forget the Train & Model Fair is on this coming Sunday Eoin

Hi jhb Yes, and oil cans, oil cans all over the place- I forgot! Eoin

Hi popeye It all runs smoothly on test but the valve rod does have to much slop in its bore, as suspected! I will work out a sleeve solution on the second cylinder and then apply to both..... Here are a a few photos of the engine break gear and wheel balance weights erected, these cast iron wheels are really nice it seems such a pity to paint them! The break gear is 180deg soldered and the wheel weights were epoxied on, again like the tender I left a generous gap between the break shoes and wheel tyres for wheel removal for the painting work. Now to complete the other side valve gear..... Eoin

Hi jb It would most likely be a tank in some form of bund- a structure that would hold the full contents of the tank should it leak. The bund walls would be about 1 to 1.2 meters high built of brick or block and lined inside with asphalt in the early days, constructed in concrete with no lining later on. The tank would stand on two rising walls within the bund and the tank would be at a higher level so that if the bund fills the tank would be above the full level and not float! It would not be in an enclosure like a building, generally open above the bund for ventilation. A small discharge metering valve located at one end with hose and standard nozzle would be the associated gubbins...... Eoin

Hi Ken A fantastic aid to lining- by Wild Swan Publications - 'A Modeller's Handbook Of Painting And Lining' by Ian Rathbone, and Wild Swan's first publication of this type in full colour..... Truly a must have item in the toolbox ISBN 978 1 905184 54 5 Eoin

Hi KMCE In the 'good book' photo, one can just make out the lining on the cab side around the numberplate, and on the sand/tool boxes- tool box top is black also? the links below give some idea as to how Packetts were lined which could help you - the last photo in the first link would seem a good starting point with the black lining and then add the yellow?? https://www.martynbane.co.uk/peckett/working/inservice.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Peckett_and_Sons_railway_locomotives Eoin

Hi KMCE 'expletives' a very handy modeller device- somehow by multiple use it all works out OK in the end! Looking Good Eoin

Hi Noel Nice to see those photos, brings back memories when used to holiday there, worked there, and sailed there- when sailing we stayed in the old station- there used to be a sailing school there- Glenn Ann's I think it was called! Eoin

This evening I got the 800 trial valve gear side erected, after steel riveting, 14BA tapping and a few nuts soldered it all came together. These are the 800 detail valve parts soldered on to the chassis plate, those cheese head screws are temporary, brass countersunk ones will be used finally. The crosshead is going to miss the combination lever- phew! The slide bar chassis hanger is now soldered in place and the slide bar needs a bit of a trim here. The valve rod is a bit sloppy in its cylinder and I'm a bit concerned as to how it will work under power! but cant test run it until the Loctite sets overnight on the return crank- then I need to shorten the crankpin screw as it fouls the eccentric rod! The return crank should be soldered to the crankpin, but the whole thing needs to be dissembled for painting- soldering will be done after the painting is complete. Eoin