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murrayec
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Everything posted by murrayec
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Excellent work Ken Best way to do projects, all together! each process assists in each project, and repetition makes the work better... I have Mr Bolton's book on building 0-6-0 J15 (British), excellent info. The tank loco one is on my to get list Eoin
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Hi All Apologies for not having next months flyer at the Fair yesterday- two patrons were disappointed as they are collecting the flyers! Date is now confirmed;- I will also bring along flyers for this Fair, so that those two chaps will be able to complete the set! Eoin
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We had a boat, not the size your talking! it had a Volvo Penta Diesel- if you ran the engine for any considerable time and one was sitting down, one got 'white Bum' you know like 'White Finger' using a B&D mouse sander... Eoin
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Yes Borithe the main problem with steam loco design, - build it big and hefty, replace it when it comes loose, and no need to change the existing design 'because it works'. This is the design ethos that got steam a bad name... Motor bikes got smoother when the Japs got involved with their lightweight engineering and more modern ways of thinking! I have a few British made 'Thumpers' - a 1961 BSA C15T 250cc single is the worst- at about 30mph the vibrations make it difficult to hold the bars, above that it smooths out again, then close to 60mph about as fast as I dared to go- your vision blurs, there is a brand new Alpha big end bearing kit installed n all! Eoin
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Hi KMCE It's quartered, the chap who built the chassis has the left side leading The wheel balance weights are essential on large wheels to counter-balance the weight of the crankpin boss cast in the wheel, the crankpin, and the motions. The inside cylinder is far ahead of the outside ones because the drive is taken from the front axle and the radius rod driving the valve needs to be as long as possible to set up the correct motion angles with the combining and anchor links to control lap and lead to the valve ports..... Eoin
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Spot on Broithe Could not have said it better myself, a bit of an engineer in yeah... Eoin
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Hi all Don't forget the Train & Model Fair is on this coming Sunday Eoin
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Hi jhb Yes, and oil cans, oil cans all over the place- I forgot! Eoin
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Hi popeye It all runs smoothly on test but the valve rod does have to much slop in its bore, as suspected! I will work out a sleeve solution on the second cylinder and then apply to both..... Here are a a few photos of the engine break gear and wheel balance weights erected, these cast iron wheels are really nice it seems such a pity to paint them! The break gear is 180deg soldered and the wheel weights were epoxied on, again like the tender I left a generous gap between the break shoes and wheel tyres for wheel removal for the painting work. Now to complete the other side valve gear..... Eoin
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Hi jb It would most likely be a tank in some form of bund- a structure that would hold the full contents of the tank should it leak. The bund walls would be about 1 to 1.2 meters high built of brick or block and lined inside with asphalt in the early days, constructed in concrete with no lining later on. The tank would stand on two rising walls within the bund and the tank would be at a higher level so that if the bund fills the tank would be above the full level and not float! It would not be in an enclosure like a building, generally open above the bund for ventilation. A small discharge metering valve located at one end with hose and standard nozzle would be the associated gubbins...... Eoin
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Hi Ken A fantastic aid to lining- by Wild Swan Publications - 'A Modeller's Handbook Of Painting And Lining' by Ian Rathbone, and Wild Swan's first publication of this type in full colour..... Truly a must have item in the toolbox ISBN 978 1 905184 54 5 Eoin
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Hi KMCE In the 'good book' photo, one can just make out the lining on the cab side around the numberplate, and on the sand/tool boxes- tool box top is black also? the links below give some idea as to how Packetts were lined which could help you - the last photo in the first link would seem a good starting point with the black lining and then add the yellow?? https://www.martynbane.co.uk/peckett/working/inservice.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Peckett_and_Sons_railway_locomotives Eoin
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Hi KMCE 'expletives' a very handy modeller device- somehow by multiple use it all works out OK in the end! Looking Good Eoin
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Hi Noel Nice to see those photos, brings back memories when used to holiday there, worked there, and sailed there- when sailing we stayed in the old station- there used to be a sailing school there- Glenn Ann's I think it was called! Eoin
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This evening I got the 800 trial valve gear side erected, after steel riveting, 14BA tapping and a few nuts soldered it all came together. These are the 800 detail valve parts soldered on to the chassis plate, those cheese head screws are temporary, brass countersunk ones will be used finally. The crosshead is going to miss the combination lever- phew! The slide bar chassis hanger is now soldered in place and the slide bar needs a bit of a trim here. The valve rod is a bit sloppy in its cylinder and I'm a bit concerned as to how it will work under power! but cant test run it until the Loctite sets overnight on the return crank- then I need to shorten the crankpin screw as it fouls the eccentric rod! The return crank should be soldered to the crankpin, but the whole thing needs to be dissembled for painting- soldering will be done after the painting is complete. Eoin
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Today I erected the tender break gear..... The chassis holes for the hangers was worked out very carefully, as the chassis sides were not identical so I used the height gauge to measure and mark the holes from the axles. The chassis has a slight twist in it which also caused some line up problems after the holes were drilled! After some work with a files, a broach and 'gentile persuasion' I set about soldering it together with 180deg solder. I left a good gap on the break shoes and outer lateral break rods so that the wheels can be removed for the painting work. Thats the tender chassis work complete, Eoin
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Hi Mayner It's a Stepcraft 420 with a Kress router/spindle- it also takes a Dremel, the 450 has a working area of about A3 size. They have other options for this machine- wire foam cutter, knife cutting and 3D printer, and fourth axis option- rotary table..... http://stoneycnc.co.uk/stepcraft-overview/ There is also a photo at the start of the thread Eoin
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So a bit more parts cut and the valve gear kit cleaned up with files and a fixing plan is worked out. This is a new combination lever cut out- on the left, it's shorter than the kit one- on the right, and of thinner material which will help with the clearances, these parts will be .8mm steel revetted together. Crank pin bushes and 12BA screws will fix the expansion link and radius rod to the chassis and the cut circles are the 800 detail parts around these fixings. The lifting arm will have a steel rivet soldered on to run in the radius rod slot. The eccentric rod will be 14BA screw fixed and again the NS cut circle is 800 detail part to be soldered on, the rod is very plain and should have a flute down the middle- so I decided to cut a flute in it- see below. One done, second one to do. Tender break gear cut out, cleaned up, holes sized and delrin shoes assembled on their hangers, .4mm NS was used for these parts Eoin
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Thanks popeye, yes detail parts give it scale So adjustments made to the crosshead today to give clearance for the combination lever, it's at the max it can be moved inwards but one can see in the photos the lever can just get by, in final assembly the lever will have a slight bend to give further clearance. It's funny how things work out!- by having to the make changes here has led to a better way of assembling the crosshead, so now it can be dissembled far easier in the future, than first designed! All the other gear for this side cleaned up n ready- a few more parts need to be made before this can go on- I looking at the pivot supports for the expansion link, radius rod and the lifting arm, going to use crank pin bushes here. The 800 has very distinctive fittings on the chassis out rigger here and thats what I'm making next?? Eoin
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This evening I set up to check one of the cylinders parts to see how it is going to work! Steam chest rod guides folded up and ready for soldering, on the left is a 1.5mm copper rod which will be fixed into the front of the steam chest. Guides on with 180deg solder Crosshead slide bar hanger folded up and soldered with 180deg solder NS 'H' slide bars being soldered with 180deg solder, this was a fiddly one but the half cut line down the components helped to line it up under the clamps. Crosshead clamps being folded up for soldering Clamp soldered up and onto the crosshead/conrod and a completed slide bar- the rod soldered on the end is the support pin that goes into the cylinder body. Test assembly of one side- the hanger and slide bar are fine but the crosshead clamp is off centre and will foul the combination lever going up to the steam chest rod- some modification to the clamp will be required to move it in towards the chassis a bit. Otherwise quite happy how all is working..... Eoin
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Everything removed from the sheet, all the tabs removed by filing, holes broached up to size, and ready to assemble, on the left top is the steam valve rod guides, next to the right is crosshead stuff, next wheelweights, back down left are the crosshead bracket support to the chassis!.... you'll see in a while... Break shoes were .5mm slotted to fit with .5mm pin onto the hangers Break roding bars, the brass cross bars are filed a little on the edges to fit the bottom hole in the hangers, .6mm NS rods will be used for the lateral rods Complete, and will be attached to the chassis next time.... This is the valve gear kit that was supplied with the model, it's very close to the 800 stuff and with a little tweaking should be quite acceptable?? Eoin
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Lovely stuff David, Lovely little loco. Eoin
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Hi All Next months Fair date;-
