murrayec

Hi 16miller Many moons ago I built SM32 locos and wagons for a chap's garden railway using Peco mechanisms for their 0-4-2 tram and Hunslet 0-4-0, they had planned to build a live steam railway but baulked at the cost of building the models and went for electric power. Unfortunately he is not on the forum and I have not heard from him since the time of the build- it got complex...... Eoin

Hi Robert I have two sets left in the last batch I made, €25.00 per set, €5.50 standard post to GB or €11.75 registered post to GB I'll pm you with account details if you want to order Eoin

Hi popeye The best way to take a photo is to take it in diffused daylight with a white background and a pure black object in the scene, the camera white balanced before you take the shot, then the levels can be adjusted using the black and white colours in the photo, once you have B&W levels set correctly one has the best colour representation on screen for that situation. Most cameras and phones now have facility for white balancing- this is done just before taking the photo in the same environment you want to take the picture, done with a white sheet of paper held arms length away from the lens, then balance the camera, then take the shot of the model. The GUARD sign photo was taken like this- daylight, white snow background, and black cover book in the shot, then the levels of the photo were adjusted in photoshop (most decent bitmap graphic editors have this facility) and then the green background colour was assessed on screen with the board in the fist to see if it gave a good rep..... When comparing colours in an image its best to do it in the bitmap graphics editor- ie, photoshop, where one can see the values of RGB, or whatever the colour format your working with, and also in greyscale! our eye perceives tones of grey far better than colour- graphics editors have all these facilities for proofing images.... Your photo of the model body you painted seems to be taken indoors under artificial light with a cream background- the light and background will effect the way the camera sees the colours of the model and that is why the photo looks different to the real thing..... Eoin

Hi Guys I got this message back from my railway historical source;- "Looks good to me. Sticking to what I said after looking at different screen it's a close as feasible to the real thing. Fourm post can be updated 216 is the best option its the closest" Eoin

Hi Guys The plot thickens I contacted my excellent railway historical source to see if he could shed some light on this subject, amazingly he has a GUARD sign which he photographed and sent me, I adjusted the levels and pasted in the colour references we have been discussing and sent him the image, he and an assistant have viewed the image with the board in his fist and conclude that 216 is the closest match The transfer is an original CIÉ 1950s The paint green came from carriage shop Inchicore by Cyril Fry. The board is foam board nó undercoat two coats of paint not varnished. The transfer was beginning to perish but not "yellowed" Transfer is not sealed. They are going to view it again on different screens and see if they have the same opinion on 216 and come back to me. I have also discussed meeting up with him and going to a paint supply system to get an exact reference match and some paint to do a test What a nice thing to have I shall report back Eoin

Hi johnminnitt They are the same, I gave the image as for comparison right or left, one or other, but not mixing them In setting up the samples I used the movie image to extract the colour of the snail/stripe and then used the same palate of colours to select the closest match to the BS colour cards- 14 C 35 comes the closest for that image- if you have an other image your referring to post it up and I'll do the same process to it Eoin

Hi Steve With the last image I posted, I reckon hold off on doing anything until we see comments back over a few days! After doing this exercise this morning my preference is now for 14 C 35 on all the EDN colour- lined snail, unlined snail, and the body stripes- and not use 216 at all. On the lining;- I'm sure you thought of it- the lines could be in short lengths to make it easier to apply, and the below window line goes through the door handles- I can give you dimensions for this off a SSM 6 wheeler kit if you require? Eoin

Hi Guys Just to connect this thread with another on the same subject about paint & decal colours for future reference;- and there is another one;-

Hi guys Furthering on the EDN colour, I've gone through the standard RAL & BS 4800 colours and come up with this! The EDN colour on the right is from BS 4800 colours- this range is more common and available in all paint stores, one range is 'Dulux Trade' which is called something new now! (it's an old Dulux brochure I have- but the BS reference will not have changed) BS 14 C 35 is called 'Braemar' by Dulux and 'Iceplant Green' by others- in photoshop it's pretty close though?? There is not a green like 226 in the standard BS 4800 colours- the closest is BS 14 C 39 but leans towards the blue side! Eoin

Rendered the scene with a little bit of snow last night.....

The colours on top of one of Glenderg's adjusted frames from the movie, this also shows the stripes above and below the windows Eoin

Hi Steve When referring to buying paint, I mean the 216 colour- as 216 colour lines have to be painted above the doors and sometimes under, so this needs to match your decals. Unless you were to print lines also on the decal sheet, which would be an extra boon for us! because if you look close there is a pinstripe under the heavy line which is hard to paint on? Also as pointed out above some snails did not have the gold line- options! Regarding all the different shades referenced;- jonminnitt's post above hits the nail straight on the head;- " first they were quite possibly not always mixed exactly the same, the shade would change with weather, dirt, sunlight once in use, and isn't it true that a colour seen close up is not the same when seen from some distance, as models effectively are. So do we want the 'officia'l shade as new, a bit used, seen from six inches or 200 yards" - I see no problem with 216 and am quite happy to work with it, again standardising with a reference code I believe is crucial, otherwise its hit n miss.... Eoin

Borrowed from JHB's post and adjusted to colour balance the dark green as there is a lot of reflection going on, then pasted in 216 with the gold line left intact;- Eoin

Hi Guys Standardisation is the key, the photos are all different depending on the lighting, angle, film or digital! We should stick to the BS 381C Standard, as this paint is ready available and will be the same all the time, I have pasted the 216 into Steve's snail sheet using the same colour pallet in photoshop which gives a comparison to work with;- I would stay with this ref and not alter it, so later when we go back to buy paint it will be the same I would also suggest, If Steve can print white first and then print 216 on top a better colour representation should be achieved, not sure if his printer is able to do this? Edit;- Eau De Nil snails should have a gold line around the edges, this can be achieved with a deep yellow BS 381C 356 and very thin! Eoin

Here is that chart, BS 381C, there are a few other colours on here that the ref might come in handy;-

Hi popeye The Brunswick green mix looks excellent, but I reckon the decals are to green/blue- they should be green/yellow or yellow/green! I think I saw a post some time back here about Railtec's colour choice being a bit off on Irish decals- could be wrong though. jhb should be along soon to take a look- last I heard he was snow modelling a J15 snowman with that 2" of snow that fell on the hills Eoin

Hi Guys While waiting for the revised body test prints to come back I set about completing the bogie design and started into prototyping it on the CNC machine. The design is more or less as the above sketch in the previous post, I decided to run the axles in the brass sides without wheel bearings to aid assembly, if using bearings the drive gears on the axles and wheels have to removed to assemble and disassemble. So .4mm brass was chosen to provide a wide running surface for the axles with a brass keeper plate screwed on under to keep the axles in place. The pulley drive system makes it difficult to install a standard coupler socket, so I've come up with an out-up-around the pulley affair off the bottom front of the bogie frame with a PB spring to retain the coupler that hopefully will allow the required coupler movement- assembly will tell if this works! Drawing exported as a CNC script and away it goes;- 1mm end mill does a nice job on cutting out the outline of the parts, unfortunately I got my settings wrong for drilling the holes and broke the end mill drilling the first hole. The above is the motor bogie complete, halfcut lines, tabs and open sockets for folding up on assembly Above are the completed parts, the motor bogie and keeper plate came out fine, but the motor-less one suffered from incorrect cut depth on the holes. The red 3M glue used to stick the brass to the MDF backing really did its job, very hard to get the parts out! A slight offset happened on the holes and the halfcut lines- stupidly I removed the spindle from the machine to replace the broken end mill! I do know never to do this but being annoyed at getting the script wrong I just didn't think about it..... I'll have to do it again as these parts wont go together square. 34 minutes total cutting time, but this can be speeded up. I reckon milling is faster than etching- in the drawing work and the cutting, no cusp to remove except a little burr to remove on the edges , just milling- your limited to size of the tool and internal corners are round. Very happy with these results, I'm going to stick with milling and see how assembly goes. Eoin

Hi BTB Yes, thats right. Do keep in mind as stated in a post above, Peco only do 2 turnouts in Bullhead- long curve right & left! Bullhead is compatible with standard Code 75 rail which has more options on point-work and crossings if you don't mind mixing them! Eoin

The Sideways Mafia That's a change for you jhb Eoin

Hi BTB NIRClass80 is referring to 21mm broad gauge in his comment 'correct scale' I reckon, Peco Bullhead is OO gauge (16.5mm) you don't have to change your rolling stock for Code 75 or 100 The difference is;- code 100 is a taller rail at 1.6mm high and code 75 is finer scale at 1.34mm high which is more like the real thing. The gauge is the same on both at 16.5mm. The only time you might experience code 75 problems is with really old locos or stock with deep wheel flanges, and then you would have to replace wheels on them to run on code 75. Eoin

I was thinking a door stop

Hi jhb Here is another corrugated roof I've been working on, it's scale 1:1 and has taken about 300 years to get the weathering correct! but you must agree it does look very authentic...... ....and yes Borithe ''I hear the rain'' Eoin

Great result, well done guys Eoin

Excellent idea, I like it a lot.... Eoin

Next Fair Date;-