Glenderg

1: ryans wallpaper and decorating in patricks street limerick sold solvite and paint, but they also had a roundy roundy track in the window. It was 1984 i was 7 and that christmas Earl Mountbatten of Burma loco and three blue and grey coaches arrived. I could have lost the goo right then but then my aul fella decided the design of bogie coaches was wrong. He spent christmas day cutting up the coaches and bogies, glueing them back together in only the way an engineering dad could. I cried all day, and my aul fella is a solicitor. He made a total balls of it and hence forth, the engineering side of the hobby was born. I ended up building a miny town with a 64' single track. The photos of that layout got me into architecture in college - they said model making was a module (lying bawstads) 2: the challenges. Given thats its an irish thing and British rail is handily available, its always been the challenge to convert non irish railway coaches etc. To something that looks right. As a community, we put up with truly inadequate models and repaints for years - the desire is to have everything ready to run, off the shelf. Might happen in a hundred years or so. The challenge continues..... 3: no, much and all as i love the hobby, i avoid those events like the plague. Body odour, more bitching than an episode of eastenders, and a level of bullshit that would have paddy murphy crowned both high king of ireland and cromwells right hand man at the same time. 4: i spend about a tenner a year on me, a couple of thousand on other peoples models. I'm a bad example, but it's unlikely you'll get an answer either way. Many married men here consciously disguise there spending on the hobby, and certainly will not disclose an amount on a public forum to a stranger. You could be disguised as the revenue, or worse, the wife. Best of luck Richie.

Dive, you could replace the older pizzacutter type wheelsets with code88 or similar which would be readily available stateside in packs of 50. http://www.bobthetrainguy.com/rapido-ho-scale-33-code-88-fine-tread-wheels-50-pack/ Great value, and you can resell any of your old ones :-)

The running numbers are always third blank space in from the end - either left or right, and works overhaul dates (ULT, DLT etc.) are at the extremes of the wagons. No uniformity to it at all K.

Dhu, there is this weird thing about the Craven coach colours that no-one seems to have mentioned-the orange on both the black and tan variant and the tippex version is identical - that rascal mr. Murphy! So perhaps not the bext benchmark? Acrylic - Citadel - Troll slayer orange + Mournefang Brown at a ratio of 9:1 is supertrain to match perfectly phoenix paints.

O

Gents, thank you kindly for your best wishesess. I may have consumed an unearthly volume of ting tong and on the advice of my cat, I shall adjourn to the couch. I shall return when daylight defeats me once more.

I need to tidy off this thread by answering a few queries raised. Nelson - please don't leave the railway world you currently inhabit to model 70's freight. Far less weathering challenges, and we all need a bit GNR/NCC/BCDR in our lives. That's something my I wish my county down missus would say so me..... sob... Aclass007 - alignment of the central spine is by eye only, but having something like a slow setting glue, like SLO-ZAP, would give you plenty time to get her right. Kirley - thanks for pointing out the whole purpose of this wagon - running! Easily forgotten when in ones bubble. Eamonn and Noel - no doubt versions will be seen on layouts in the new year, i'm looking forward to the variations that arrive - barrier wagon anyone?.... :-) Scah - i'll email you tomorrow Mulitvac, Red, Dive, and NIR - Looking forward to seeing what comes forth, again I hope it was of use. Weshty - there's a slight detail on the solebar I'm not mad abou......... Oh, I knew there was a purpose to this post! Nothing to do with whitemetal dust or the like - there are 3 spare tail lamp hangers, one brake wheel, four brake support brackets, and two entire bufferbeam assemblies when finished. After christmas, I'll put up a tutorial on how to turn a hornby freightliner. Into something that passes as a 47'6" liner wagon using them spare parts and a bit of madness :-)

I'll address those issues below K. To carry on from where I left off, turn the almost complete chassis upside down and with the L shaped pieces above, place them such that the short part of the L shape sits up against the solebar and the end sits on top of the central spine cage sides. A little blob of glue to either and leave to dry for a minute. Approx location shown here in blue - these appear to differ on the prototype. Next thing is to locate the container lug surrounds themselves. Cut, trim and fold each. If you cut off some of the openings earlier, give yourself a wee pat on the back. You've less to make up! Drop them into their locations and a little drop of glue should secure them. All that's left is the makers plate, which you can add on once the chassis is painted, if you'd like to add the yellow chevron etc. Now to the bogies and coupling, and I apologise to the brass/soldering guru's here. Not in my skillset, but I had to give it a go. The first thing I had to find was a tweezer/screwdriver that held the brass bolts. (Fiddlier than a fiddler at the fiddlers green festival) Sometimes a bit of PVA on a screwdriver tip acts as a pickup if needed. Drop the bolt into opening in the cage. I secured it temporarily with a little drop of Zap superglue. Repeat on the other side. Then add the washer (s) as required. There are two large and two small with a leg which you may need for clearance between the solebar and the top of the bogie sideframe. Bend the bogie cage into shape. These were attached with superglue, and it's only temporary. Any harsh drop, bang or shunting might cause the sideframes to fall off, so get the soldering iron out. I got some plumbers flux, and rubbed it along the edges to be soldered with a cotton bud - not sure if it's the right approach but it works! "Tin" the edges like so, and attach the bogies, aligning the holes in the whitemetal with the holes in the brass. Fabric shops sell these mini clothes pegs, which come in handy. Basically I run the soldering iron along the tinned portion to melt it, and edge it toward the whitemetal. The clothes peg helps angle the melted solder toward the whitemetal, and it's done. Now the coupling. There are two bars with a half etch. This bar can be folder over and a piece of wire or a staple can be used to connect the wagons for a fixed rake. Fine for the home user, but a bit of nuisance for club and exhibition runners. There is an alternative. Bend the bar once more creating a pocket into which an NEM plastic pocket can fit, like so. Solder the bar onto the bogie.. Do a test fit of the bogie on its mount. When you are happy, drop the nut on, and gently turn until the bogie swivels freely. There is no need to cut out the sections as the bogie sideframe is limited in it's rotation by the last "V" truss as shown above, but by all means chop and fold if it improves running. I've run finished wagons on the shortest radius points, which I believe to be the tightest curves on RTR track and there is plenty rotation, but again, test on your own setup as you go. Lastly, some thoughts on the build process having completed 7 so far. - I'm using aftermarket washers for the bogie mounts - I just find them that bit more fluid. - Paint and detail the bogies separately prior to assembly of the wagon. - I bow in admiration to those that put this together with a soldering iron. That's all Richie.

Specsavers, now - the pair of ye!

http://catalogue.nli.ie/Record/vtls000304942 http://catalogue.nli.ie/Record/vtls000304941 Are these the ones John?

Black Beetles come in 31 and 34mm wheelbase, you'd need 32mm. 10.5mm supplied wheels as opposed to 12.5mm, but with the right sideframe, a blind man wouldn't spot the difference. 2 Black Beetles would be a logical choice if you could, and I know you can, cast the sideframes for an easier build?

Nice vid, but do you not have two power bogies under her?

I've emptied the stock box, and taken as many orthographic, or as close as, photos to help. Most are Lima pancake jobs, so I'm not sure what the current Hornby innards are of these. You'll have to google/debate the pro's and con's of each, but most are cut n shuts - never an ideal solution. *When I say "perfect alignment" it does not mean so. The bogies on the A-Class are trimount, and no RTR manufacturer allows for the offset arrangement of the central axel. The central one is shanked to one side. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16248[/ATTACH] Deltic chassis as used under the Sulzer - almost right, needs a cosmetic sideframe, and hornby version wouldn't pull hot snot - see Kirley's trials with it on his WB. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16249[/ATTACH] Yank thing - SD9? - Easy to cut and shut, no weight, will need cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16250[/ATTACH] Class 50 Hoover - cut and shut job, needs cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment. Pulling power questionable. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16251[/ATTACH] Class 47 - same as above Class 50 [ATTACH=CONFIG]16252[/ATTACH] Class 31 - Bogie is far too big - sorry Des On the positive, the sideframes are good if you wish to go slightly oversized. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16253[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]16254[/ATTACH] Altas RSD4/5 Chassis - very slightly underscale, but front to back axles are correct, trimount bogie present, no cutting required. Central tank is die cast metal, so unsure how one would deal with it. Warbonnet tells me it's relatively easy to DCC these elderly, but powerful chassis'. I hope that does something to inform this debate. Richie.

I've emptied the stock box, and taken as many orthographic, or as close as, photos to help. Most are Lima pancake jobs, so I'm not sure what the current Hornby innards are of these. You'll have to google/debate the pro's and con's of each, but most are cut n shuts - never an ideal solution. *When I say "perfect alignment" it does not mean so. The bogies on the A-Class are trimount, and no RTR manufacturer allows for the offset arrangement of the central axel. The central one is shanked to one side. Deltic chassis as used under the Sulzer - almost right, needs a cosmetic sideframe, and hornby version wouldn't pull hot snot - see Kirley's trials with it on his WB. Yank thing - SD9? - Easy to cut and shut, no weight, will need cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment. Class 50 Hoover - cut and shut job, needs cosmetic sideframes, perfect alignment. Pulling power questionable. Class 47 - same as above Class 50 Class 31 - Bogie is far too big - sorry Des On the positive, the sideframes are good if you wish to go slightly oversized. Altas RSD4/5 Chassis - very slightly underscale, but front to back axles are correct, trimount bogie present, no cutting required. Central tank is die cast metal, so unsure how one would deal with it. Warbonnet tells me it's relatively easy to DCC these elderly, but powerful chassis'. I hope that does something to inform this debate. Richie.

I hope you're not comparing the wheelbase of the rsd 4/5 to the a class, because we're talking about a model here, not the prototype. The H0 version of the rsd 4/5 matches with a scale 6 inches to the 00 chassis, and they both run, effectively, on the same track. I'll take a photo of the chassis beside the A class drawings tomorrow for you. It might give a bit of clarity to the matter and put the question of "what to stick under an A Class" to bed once and for all.

Just buy the dang thing. It's perfect, compensated axel/bogie arrangement and all. All wheel drive, pickups, lights and central flywheel motor. Great at slow running too.

Chuckles

Silly me. Shur thread titles these days, what are they like with their messin, Ted.

A 141/181 has four axels. An A Class has 6 axels. Are people planning to put a cosmetic axel on either end of the MM chassis or is for a C class?

Is that A3 not a Q-kit, rather than silverfox? Perhaps a quick run of an orange marker over the white broken wheel part of the decal and all will be good, Dave? Won't tell a soul.... Everytime I see the SilverFox orange (either Tippex or Tan), I think...

Crazy old coot is right but he left us with some memorable oddities. Heres the patent for the triangulated underframe. I've a feeling i've a photo of a crash somewhere showing an open wagon on it's uppers revealing how it worked in practice. http://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?CC=GB&NR=584858 Willing to be corrected by the more knowledgeable, but the cradles on the weedspray tanks are triangulated underframes?

http://man-fe.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/primo_library/libweb/action/display.do?tabs=requestTab&ct=display&fn=search&doc=44MAN_ALMA_DS21182607110001631&indx=2&recIds=44MAN_ALMA_DS21182607110001631&recIdxs=1&elementId=1&renderMode=poppedOut&displayMode=full&frbrVersion=7&dscnt=0&frbg=&scp.scps=scope%3A%2844MAN%29%2Cprimo_central_multiple_fe&tab=local&dstmp=1411592202889&srt=rank&mode=Basic&&dum=true&tb=t&vl(freeText0)=carriage%20western&vid=MU_VU1 Kieran, this the only book i'm aware of, but i'm not sure if it goes as far as 1975, when published. The IRRS have a copy. It can't be bought either. A carriage diagram book from the inception of cie would be superb.... http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bibliography_of_Irish_rail_transport

Rang a friend, and he had this Beast to spare! Noisy, but brilliant.

Need one likety split, if any one has one going idle. Happy to rent it also. Will collect anywhere in dublin.