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Kadee coupler advice.

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irishthump
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Lads,

 

I have been experimenting with various methods of coupling/uncoupling on my layout. I had been using using the Brian Kirby method, for any of you

unfamiliar with it here's a video showing how it works.

 

It's easy, cheap and works very well but it involves fitting magnets under the track at every place you may need to uncouple.

 

I boight a few Kadee no. 20's off Ebay just to give them a try and I have to admit they seem great, if a little fiddly!

Just looking for some advice from anyone who uses them; which magnets do you guys use for uncoupling? I have been experimenting with square magnets from cupboard latches which is what the Kirby ones use but they're a bit unreliable for the Kadees.

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Just started to use some Kadee's on my freight wagons where I need to either split the train or uncouple the train.

I am using 17,18 & 19 Kadee's.

I am also using the Kadee uncoupler plate think it's 321.

My problem is that the Kadee is either not uncoupling over the magnet or when I go to couple up they are not connecting.

I do the usual backwards and forwards over the magnet but they don't seam to spring apart very often so I spend all my time going backwards and forwards over the magnet.

Anyone have the same problem.??

The couplings on the loco are not to bad but the wagons are a pain.

Just wondering if it is the fitting on the Dapol wagon where the Kadee fits into it seems to move slightly to one side.

Does the fitting where the Kadee fits need to be solid I wonder.

Anyone had the same problem.

Ta,

Wiggy.

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I have used Kadees for quite a while, I found that assembly is critical as is adjustment; they all have to be at the same height! I also have a little puffer bottle of graphite, I think its sold to dry lubricant for locks, which I blow into the assembled coupler.That seems to help a lot. Perhapse rubbing the parts with a soft pencil during assembly might help? Wiggy, I think the coupler fitting should be rock solid on the vehicle.

Mike

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My problem is that the Kadee is either not uncoupling over the magnet or when I go to couple up they are not connecting.

I do the usual backwards and forwards over the magnet but they don't seam to spring apart very often so I spend all my time going backwards and forwards over the magnet.

Anyone have the same problem.??

Wiggy.

 

It sounds like this is an issue with allignment of the coupler. If they are off centre the magnet will pull the trip pins together rather than apart. Kadees have to be alligned dead straight over the centre line of the wagon to work right. It may help to glue the pocket in place once it's dead straight.

 

The 321 uncouple also has to be dead centre of the rails, this is really important with this particular magnet, if it is even slightly off it won't work reliably.

 

Coupler height may also be an issue; with the 321 uncoupler the trip pins should just brush the top of the magnet when they pass over it. If you don't have one already get one of the coupler height gauges. Many of the NEM coupler pockets can be at the wrong height. I found the pockets on Dapol box vans to be a shade low.

 

Misalignment will also cause problems when coupling up BTW.

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Kadee also sell a special pliers to adjust the bend on the coupler pins to ensure they are correct. Additionally, they sell height gauge to ensure the coupler itself is ok. Lubricate the units with graphite. Some rolling stock may need a damper to give it heft when reversing (and also to prevent it rolling away if there is any slope while shunting). You can do this by putting a piece of sponge between the wheel centre spindle. Getting stock to separate consistently takes time and patience but the effect is well worth it especially at exhibitions!

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Some rolling stock may need a damper to give it heft when reversing (and also to prevent it rolling away if there is any slope while shunting). You can do this by putting a piece of sponge between the wheel centre spindle. Getting stock to separate consistently takes time and patience but the effect is well worth it especially at exhibitions!

 

I had to do this with my Mk3's as they were just too free wheeling. When hauling coaches over the magnets they would uncouple near all the time! I attached a small piece of copper strip to one bogie and adjusted it so that it was just touching one axle.

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The height gauge is highly recommended - depending on the coupler used (and the nem socket) you may have to shim the kadee up or down to meet the height gauge bang on. Generally, as long as they are all set exactly the same, they work beautifully.

 

I also use 3mm neodymium magnets between the rails for uncoupling, which also work great.

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Hi Guys. I am about to start converting my four wheel goods wagons to kadee couplings, none of which have NEM pockets, just bachmann tension lock couplings screwed to chassis. The objective is realistic wagon shunting.

 

Question for short wagons should I use kadee no 5, no 58 both with the 232 gearboxes, or 145, 146, 148 whisker springed couplings with 242 gear boxes, or just no 18, 19 glued directly to the wagons without gearboxes?

 

Cheers

 

Noel

 

PS: I have a kadee height gauge

Edited by Noel
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Hi Guys. I am about to start converting my four wheel goods wagons to kadee couplings, none of which have NEM pockets, just bachmann tension lock couplings screwed to chassis. The objective is realistic wagon shunting.

 

Question for short wagons should I use kadee no 5, no 58 both with the 232 gearboxes, or 145, 146, 148 whisker springed couplings with 242 gear boxes, or just no 18, 19 glued directly to the wagons without gearboxes?

 

Cheers

 

Noel

 

PS: I have a kadee height gauge

 

I normally use the Kadee No36 long coupler for Irish stock, https://kadee.com/htmbord/page36.htm

 

Using the No 5 the draft gear box has to be packed out past the buffer beams, not sure if a long shank coupler is available that will work with the 232 gearbox

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