Gerhard's Workbench

[Sentinel281]

Hello all,

 

as I don't want to be counted among those that only talk don't do anything, here some pictures of what I am currently doing.

 

At first, a face lift for Michelle:

 

I used CAWS antennae from SSM, painted the buffer beam in normal red (not in dayglow as delivered from Silverfox), added Window frames (also SSM) a modified (torn) H0fine coupler hook (see H0fine.de), brake pipes made from 0,99 mm guitar string and wipers (also SSM). The lights were drilled trough and fitted with LEDs which is not perfect but it somehow "glows" . The model was RTR from Silverfox but i liked to improve the look. Certainly it can't cope with one of Murphy's but for me its ok.

 

 

Thats for now. I will add some pictures of the "making of", but need to re-read the forum rules concering the attachment of pictures.

[enniscorthyman]

You did a great job on her.

[Sulzer201]

Excellent work and maskes a huge positive difference to this loco. Love the gaurd beneath the buffer beam.

[Broithe]

That certainly sharpens it up..

[BosKonay]

Huge improvement! Lovely job!

[Dave]

Very nice work

[Flying Scotsman 4472]

Looks great well done

[Kirley]

Great improvement to the SF model Sentinel, how did you find doing the LED's?

I agree with your sentiments in that you "Walk the Walk" rather than those who just "Talk the Talk".

[scahalane]

Great job, SSM's detailing kit really does lift this model.

[Sentinel281]

Thanks for the friendly words!

@Kirley: I am not fully satisfied with my work and will have to do something on it, but not at the moment. I found it rather complicated to fit LED. The main issue is: How do you ensure the light coming the right way? I will enclose some pictures when I'm on my home computer again so you can get a good impression how I did it. Short and simple described: I made PCBs on which I soldered SMD-LEDs. Every lens on the model was drilled trouhg and afterwards cuttings from a 1mm-diameter polycarbonate (in german "Plexiglas") strip were put through the holes in the case. These strips are put into a piece of strip styrene 2x3 mm where are also holes drilled trough. The syrene is then glued on top of the PCB so that the holes SHOULD fit the LEDs on the PCB. Infact it does not completely on one side. I should change the resitor of the not so good fitting two LED to make it shine brighter through the marker lights but this means lot of work again (as I used common resistors for any two LED that work together (i.e. Marker lights/ red ligths)) and I am not so fond of the Idea of beginning the whole thing once again.

[burnthebox]

Well done Sentinal, great job, she look's the business, give us some close up's ,

[Kirley]

Looking forward to seeing your pictures of your lighting system

[Guest hidden-agenda]

!st class work and very tidy.

[Sentinel281]

Hi there,

as I promised now some pictures of the steps I did on the A Class loco:

 

It ist rather difficult to get a picture that shows the real thing. In this picture you can see, as it is in real life, that the left hand side marker light (looking from the drivers view certainly ) is not as bright as the right one.

 

Two more pictures from the other cab, directly to the front. Here it looks better, the lights are indeed a little bit darker than it looks here. The second picture shows the red ligts on, indeed they are really red, but taking pictures in aritficial light makes the camera compensate the higher red/yellow parts of the main light so the red marker lights are alas overcompensated...

 

The very beginning.

 

The ready made PCBs. The little PCBs in neighbourhood to the big ones bear additional resistors.

 

spot on, direction 1. The little white PCBs are for the head lights.

 

A close up of one set of PCBs. The parts with the numbers on it are the SMD-resistors.

 

Alas I did not make any pictures of the whole arrangement when fitted but thats perhaps better as inside Michelle everything looks like spaghetti à la copperwire or in other words its a dirty mess.

 

Making the CAWS antennae. I glued a strip of 2mm brass with a 45° angle on one side into the bent over etches. After that I applied primer. The buffer plates had to be narrowed slightly to fit the antenna bearings between. After painting the antennae in black and red they were fitted to the loco body. Be careful not to apply too much colour, otherwise the fine holes in the antennae will be filled up and look bad.

 

Thats for now, if you have further questions, dont hestiate to ask.