Decal woes.

[minister_for_hardship]

Attempted to put on decals on SSM brake van, the 30 ton brake van/vac brake lettering broke up on me repeatedly, so I've only got the lettering done acceptably on one side only.

Wanted to clear laquer on the rest to seal them, had a guinea pig wagon with a decal already on it to see if that would work before proceeding, but the brake van decals started reacting to the laquer.

[flange lubricator]

Try humbrol decalfix  I have used it in the past and found it very good . 

[Noel]

I paint an oval of gloss varnish, wait 48hr for it to completely dry, apply decal over it using decal fix and then allow to dry for 24-48hr, then apply matt or satin varnish over it to seal as required. Rushing the process can trap moisture which may cause milky translucent look.

[Georgeconna]

Get a bottle of future Floor Polish (this self Levels), Seals in the decals  and when dry,  then use you matt varnish on top. Bosh....You can use the Floor Polish to give Clear Plastic parts a glass like finish too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/231971186401?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=231971186401&targetid=520884140639&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9041106&poi=&campaignid=6744139833&mkgroupid=78343140446&rlsatarget=pla-520884140639&abcId=1139126&merchantid=115195499&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvZq5wZXM5gIVg7TtCh1XkQ3lEAQYBSABEgI54fD_BwE

[Broithe]

It won't be an issue in this case, but I've found that exposure to UV radiation (sunlight) will fairly rapidly make some transfers quite brittle.

Living in the Med in my youth, it only took a few days on a windowsill for them to become very difficult to apply successfully.

Even well stored ones can become quite brittle when getting a bit elderly*.


*Like most of us...

[Glenderg]

3 hours ago, Noel said:

I paint an oval of gloss varnish, wait 48hr for it to completely dry, apply decal over it using decal fix and then allow to dry for 24-48hr, then apply matt or satin varnish over it to seal as required. Rushing the process can trap moisture which may cause milky translucent look.

I need to dispel a few myths about adding decals, on foot of the above. One requires a super smooth surface to apply the decals. It is not necessary to apply varnish, which in itself adds an additional layer to the vehicle finish. If you gently polish the area with superfine wire wool, or a "magic sponge" you will have perfect adhesion. George's solution with the floor finish is bang on for having a uniform finish. 

Any milky white finish has nothing to do with water trapped under the decal, it is caused by the humidity percentage of the top varnish layer and the product used. Humbrol gloss cote is particularly awful at this. For varnishes, I always use Windsor and Newton artists varnishes. I don't recall ever seeing an "old master" from Sean Scully et al with milky white streaks. 

If you don't have decal fix or micro sol or micro set, a touch of white vinegar will do the same to melt the decal onto a surface, but use sparingly. 

I hope that's of use. 

Richie

[RobertRoche]

I have found Micro Set and Micro Sol to be excellent when applying decals. A few applications of Micro Sol after placement really helps to settle the decal in. I usually brush over a coat of gloss or matt varnish to protect the decal.

[Georgeconna]

The thing is with SSM Decals is they don't like white spirits so must be sealed in before any weatherig or over painting takes place. I've even SPRAYED not brushed thinned enamel over SSM decals and as long as you don't touch them before the paint dries you should be ok. cuts out silvering too.

 

[minister_for_hardship]

14 hours ago, Georgeconna said:

The thing is with SSM Decals is they don't like white spirits so must be sealed in before any weatherig or over painting takes place. I've even SPRAYED not brushed thinned enamel over SSM decals and as long as you don't touch them before the paint dries you should be ok. cuts out silvering too.

 

I found them to be very delicate, I wasn't  sure if that's the way they are or if they degraded in storage. 

Edited December 24, 2019 by minister_for_hardship

[Mike 84C]

When I was into US Narrow gauge I have bought Thinfilm and Champ decals that were very old! I found that one or two coats of gloss varnish over the whole sheet helped retain  the integrity of the bits I wanted. I also found SSM  decals to be very delicate and I try to float them onto a model then wick any excess fluid off the model with a tissue. Then the Micro Sol/Set treatment. Base preparation is Johnsons Kleer in the area  where I want the decal.