MM 121 Cab Opening & Driver Install

[murrayec]

I was asked how to install a driver in the MM 121.

Remove the chassis by undoing the 4 screws, 2 in front of each bogie.

The cab is designed to slide up off the footplate/body after one removes the door handrails, there are 4 barb catches on the base of the cab which catch into the footplate. 

On this model the cab refused to slide up as the boxes clued to the body in front of the cab were catching it! I had to remove the footplate which again is held by barb tabs on the body into the footplate. The front handrails also have to be removed for this. I could then flex the parts and slide the cab up.

Not the easiest job for the faint-hearted! The handrails are a bit fiddly, but the glue will eventually let go with slight lever pressure with a cocktail stick. Super glue remover can be used for softening the glue but it will also soften the paint! All came free for me without breaking.

This is a shot of the OO scale driver I use in the DARTs! He's to big- way to wide, and not fitting into the space. I recommend using a HO scale driver.

Eoin

[Noel]

Yes they come apart much easier than the 141/181. BTW, that driver is not wearing a mask  and he's legless in charge of a train.

[irishthump]

@Eoin

Very informative, thanks for this!

can you  indicate the position of the speaker on the chassis by any chance?

Edited October 6, 2020 by irishthump

[Sean Hogan]

Thanks eoin

 

[murrayec]

26 minutes ago, irishthump said:

can you  indicate the position of the speaker on the chassis by any chance?

The speaker is up front under the board;-

 

[irishthump]

25 minutes ago, murrayec said:

The speaker is up front under the board;-

 

Thanks again, Eoin.

Can the cab be removed without removing the entire body from the chassis?

[murrayec]

15 minutes ago, irishthump said:

Thanks again, Eoin.

Can the cab be removed without removing the entire body from the chassis?

I don't think so! the only way I was able to release the barbs was from underneath after the chassis was removed, also there was the difficulty with the boxes being in the way and I could not have sussed what was going on without removing the chassis.

The cab rear barbs do release when the cab body is squeezed on the outside, but the cab front ones needed a cocktail stick prodded in from underneath.

Eoin

'Cab rear' - I'm looking at it as bonnet front!

Edited October 6, 2020 by murrayec

[irishthump]

1 hour ago, murrayec said:

I don't think so! the only way I was able to release the barbs was from underneath after the chassis was removed, also there was the difficulty with the boxes being in the way and I could not have sussed what was going on without removing the chassis.

The cab rear barbs do release when the cab body is squeezed on the outside, but the cab front ones needed a cocktail stick prodded in from underneath.

Eoin

'Cab rear' - I'm looking at it as bonnet front!

That's good to know! Having a driver in the cab is not a deal breaker for me so if it's too much hassle I probably won't bother.

[fishplate7]

Eoin. That's excellent. Many thanks for sharing!

[WRENNEIRE]

Damaged 121 for sale........

[Georgeconna]

That's at least a 2 page spread in Model Rail Eoin plus you would get a few readies for the article and possibly do accompany that  perhaps an Exhaustive review of all the best driver figures available.

I think I will glue a picture of a face to the front window, Tad easier.

 

 

[Noel]

17 hours ago, irishthump said:

@Eoin

Very informative, thanks for this!

can you  indicate the position of the speaker on the chassis by any chance?

16 hours ago, murrayec said:

I don't think so! the only way I was able to release the barbs was from underneath after the chassis was removed, also there was the difficulty with the boxes being in the way and I could not have sussed what was going on without removing the chassis.

The cab rear barbs do release when the cab body is squeezed on the outside, but the cab front ones needed a cocktail stick prodded in from underneath.

Eoin

'Cab rear' - I'm looking at it as bonnet front!

Hi Eoin. How did you find the cab door grab rails to remove? Some seem loosely press fitted, others seem almost glued in. Noel

[murrayec]

40 minutes ago, Noel said:

Hi Eoin. How did you find the cab door grab rails to remove? Some seem loosely press fitted, others seem almost glued in. Noel

They are super glued in, and as I said above;-

''Not the easiest job for the faint-hearted! The handrails are a bit fiddly, but the glue will eventually let go with slight lever pressure with a cocktail stick. Super glue remover can be used for softening the glue but it will also soften the paint! All came free for me without breaking''

Eoin

[Georgeconna]

My cab doors grab rail fell out, Were not glued in. 

Edited October 7, 2020 by Georgeconna

[ttc0169]

Really helpful and informative, thanks Eoin 

[MAL]

Hi

 

This info is a great help. Thanks!

But I got stuck with removing the coupler from bogie (truck).

Does anyone know how to (without damaging the model)?

thanks in advance!

[MAL]

Problem solved.

The coupler of B135 seems to be glued.

The ones of B 121 could be removed easily as I expected by the form of coupler attached to truck.

Guess which one I tried first and then wrote the question

[Paul the painter]

On 6/10/2020 at 7:37 PM, irishthump said:

That's good to know! Having a driver in the cab is not a deal breaker for me so if it's too much hassle I probably won't bother.

I agree, what's the point of putting a driver into that beautifully detailed cab when paddy murphy omitted cab lights to show off the detail!??, no point really 

[JasonB]

On 12/7/2023 at 4:55 PM, Paul the painter said:

I agree, what's the point of putting a driver into that beautifully detailed cab when paddy murphy omitted cab lights to show off the detail!??, no point really 

Sure why bother to detail the cab at all then?

Reason is, because it's one of those little things that might not always be seen, but makes all the difference because it has been done. 

Likewise with adding figures. They are still visible in models with the lights on or not. Some of us prefer to add them, it makes things that little more interesting. So not pointless, in my opinion.