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murrayec

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Everything posted by murrayec

  1. murrayec
    Nice one Dave I'd like or share that, but nowhere to put it Eoin
  2. murrayec

    Failed loco

    murrayec replied to IANG's question in Questions & Answers

    Hi IANG Some more info required;- Is the 141 DCC? a lot of DCC'ed locos will run on DC track if the chip has been set to do so? Did it run on the DC track? Did it make a noise when you put it on the DC track? Are you now trying to run it on DCC track? Are the wheels and track clean? Eoin
  3. murrayec
    Broad gauge OO DARTs There are two sets out there Eoin
  4. murrayec
  5. murrayec
    Hi All Here is confirmation on the date for the December Fair which was only confirmed today, if you know people who go,can you please let them know.......
  6. murrayec
    Hi DB Joe No problem, I will have a couple of sets with me at the Bray Show tomorrow if you can make it- €25.00 for a set of 4 sides, otherwise pm me and we can discuss Eoin
  7. murrayec
    Break gear coming together Shoes cut out of Delrin for insulation purposes and the hangers from .5mm brass Hangers marked out and holes drilled ready for cutting out All the bits, including guard irons from .5mm brass, the fire grate front n sides and a little bit of grate detail in .5mm brass with rivets punched Break shoes pinned onto the hangers, 1.2mm brass tube with .6mm id soldered into the chassis to take .6mm pins to hang the breaks off Breaks test erected and joy-rigged at the lower end to work out the longitudinal break lever arms and cross fittings..... next Eoin
  8. murrayec
    Sorry David! I fustered over this question for a number of days! eventually I decided to stick with standard Gauge O, the reasoning is that all my other Gauge O stuff is standard and all the track I've bought for the garden is standard...... I'm not eliminating broad gauge- I have plans for a display shunting layout and that will be 'The Right Gauge' Eoin
  9. murrayec
    Hi Rich Thanks The jigs are home spun- the soldering clamp unit is a new one in hardwood, the old mdf one started to bloat with the flux getting into the mdf!!. The rolling road was built at the time of the Scot chassis build. I reckon spending the time to jig something is time well spent if the work can be put together accurately, and saves time in avoiding undoing or tidying up a mess if things go wrong without jigging Eoin
  10. murrayec
    Hi David Great photo for reference What is the tube beside the cab door for? I see it on some of the photos of this and other class... Eoin
  11. murrayec
    Next was to solder in the axle bushes and do a test fit of the Slater axles n wheels Then the drive rods n crank pin bushes to see if everything lines up, rolls across the bench beautifully Gearbox all soldered up Test fitted the motor and gearbox to chassis to work out spacers required to keep the wheel gear in line with the pinion gear on the motor Spacer arrangement and a little flat milled on the axle for the grub screw to seat on OOOH nice little thing First run of motor and gearbox, a bit noisy at first, with slight adjustment of the gears it runs smooth Drive rods back on, bolt it up and oil it and on to the rolling road Opening the regulator It runs beautifully and no adjustment needed- amazing Eoin
  12. murrayec
    Hi I picked up a few odds n ends at the Stillorgan Show yesterday that could work on this project - motors, bogies and things.... This looks like an early spud motor? and is the most suitable and a chap brought in a Halling motor, to the show, to give me a look see, thanks Joe, great to see and photo it Should be able to get something going from this lot Eoin
  13. murrayec
  14. murrayec
    Hi George The flats look great, I'd say a few steel washers stuck inside the containers would keep them wheels on the track? Great looking train when its all together- with the beer at the end, lovely The buses are cool to Eoin
  15. murrayec
    Excellent David Great work Lovely little contraptions, I got to do one of these Eoin
  16. murrayec
    OOOH! not for metal - please nobody try metal on one of these;- or ouch time will be had! Eoin
  17. murrayec
    Thanks guys There was a bit of traditional in there also Eoin
  18. murrayec
    Thanks Rich That's how it all started for me- one of my uncials had a workshop/garage- he'd potter about with the lawn mower, car, and a funny looking machine mounted on a table that hinged down to allow the car in. He made lock mechanisms on this machine- it was a lathe, I found out many years later when it was given to me. He did a lot of pipe smoking, the girls of the house did not allow that indoors, so he was out there all the time. When we used to visit there I watched and listening to him, what he was doing I thought - I would love to have a go.... Eoin
  19. murrayec
    Frames parted and cleaned up with files n emery paper on a stick Axle bearing holes were checked for fit The frame spacers 90 deg folds were treated to a nice fillet of solder and then soldering the frames commenced, working with tacking the spacers to the frames first, checking the angles and then soldered complete, front n rear spacers first with one to each frame All done except the fire grate and grate sides inside the frames- hard to photo on the phone- shiny thing..... Setting up the axle jig to solder the axle bearings in All jigged up with the drive rods installed Sit the jig axles on something straight n level- very tiny rock across the jig diagonally, shall remove that as the bearings are soldered in this set up- jiggery-poke stuff again Have to put it away now- looks cool- I like doing stuff like this, especially if it works Eoin
  20. murrayec
    The motor, gearbox and buffers arrived today, so I was able to finalise decisions on the chassis make-up So time to bash some metal, first the chassis frame .8mm tinplate parts were soldered together and sized up in line with my chassis drawing, 145 deg solder for this and just around the edges After marking up the position of the central axle one of the drive rods was set up on the frames to spot the holes through for drilling the frame bearing holes and then drilling the bearing holes After drilling the holes the rest of the marking out was done with reference to these holes, then more drilling, milling, hand cutting, filing, and I ended up with all these parts The frame spacers are cut from .4mm tinplate, scored and folded 90deg for extra strength. The tinplate buffer beams were 10mm deep which is way two large according to the drawing- should be 6mm deep, so I reduced them down to 7mm the same size as the buffer shank plates- not to sure about those buffers their a tad short so may revisit that! A few holes needed to be drilled in the frame spacers, separate the frames and then I'm soldering it up Eoin
  21. murrayec
    Hi I have a card-index A4 one, it's as you say very handy but they are very expensive, even second hand they are. Lidl, every so often do a metal A4 under office desk unit, with 6 drawers and wheels , its for about €35.00, I've got two of them and I need more! it's a more economical option.... Eoin
  22. murrayec
    Hi Colin R Those photos are excellent, just what the Doctor needed Thanks Eoin
  23. murrayec
    Hi George, if you mean this bit? ....with a piercing saw by hand, with a very fine jewellers blade Eoin
  24. murrayec
  25. murrayec
    Hi Pat He was posting stuff up, but not seen anything of recent, get him to post it up Eoin
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