murrayec

Hi wrennie I bit more info required? You say the head light is not working 'properly'? Does that mean it come on and something weird is happening, or is it not coming on at all? Are you using the yellow and white wires to run the headlight? these are directional. Or are you using the green or purple wires?- as they are not directional and require 'push on button' The Doctor

Hi All, Here's the question- On a steam loco was there a rule in CIE as to which side a red light was displayed front and back over the buffer beams? Eoin

Hi Broithe Exactly, I do a bit of astronomy and thats why I was so concerned and went to the trouble.... Eoin

Hi David It's really coming together now, you have increased the depth of field of the board twofold with the buildings- excellent modelling Eoin

Hi We decided to reduce the glare off the street lights with some shields to the leds, as the layout is designed to be run sitting down so the lights are at eye level and are in your face if turned up to full power (we have a baseboard-dave led remote controller installed) Some shim brass was cut into 1mm strips, chopped up, bent to shape, metal blackened, and stuck on to each light... Works great Eoin

Hi Broithe We like to be the first.... Eoin

CM was out train spotting at Greystones the other night and sent me these photos of the DART in the station with the new street lights;-

Hi DV Very nice work, yes the paint post problem is a pain, even worse getting it to here.... Eoin

Hi John Lovely stuff, that looks like a very complex loco in the previous post- a lot of electronic Eoin

Hi Thanks guys for the great comments PaulC;- It's Gauge O Eoin

Hi The cab roof mod above worked very well..... Painting wheels, cab and backhead stuff on the Flying Scot..... The wheels were mounted an ply boards with brass counter-sunk screws to keep the paint out of the hub, a washer is under the wheels so they are above the timber and can be rotated while the paint is wet and the screw doesn't stick. The backhead was under-coated and painted satin black, Humbrol masking liquid was used to mask off around the dial gauges, and the gauges were painted brass colour to pick out their surrounds. The dial gauge faces are little drawings printed off on the inkjet printer, covered with clear transpaseal, cut out and stuck on. Cab stuff being finished off, soon ready to put the back-head together. Cab with first coats going on. Backhead now up and running, PB wire was used for the pipework as it looks like copper and doesn't need painting, nice looking bit of stuff but very fiddly to do- the water gauges and hand-wheels were all out of shape from the last build attempt and I had to play around with them to tidy them up. The water gauge faces were done on the inkjet printer as per the dial gauges. Eoin

Greystones by Night! We started to install street and building lighting, here are a few photos of our endeavours.... Eoin & CM

Hi dave182 Funny you should post just as I was formatting up the poster. No we don't shut down.... Next show this coming Sunday;-

Hi David Looks amazing Eoin

Some painting done this weekend;- Grey.... Greyer... This is the Humbrol 27 matt and for the driver to block out the motor in the cab! He will be leaning with arm up on the cab door so decided to mould up a guy, cut his arm off and make a new one out of styrene to lean on the door. He will be cut off at chest height and wedged between cab side and the motor! Eoin

Hi Broithe Excellent photos, great to see the landscape and some of the details, also the loco details, it is a lovely place. Sadly it looks like there was crowd problems.... Eoin

Hi I've just completed two 21mm DART sets for a chap and last year converted two 141s & two 071s to 21mm- both are private layouts if that counts? I also have two separate orders for 21mm Class A chassis Eoin

Hi all The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome.... Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post Oh and Noel especially for you;- Eoin

Thanks again all for comments pauldelany Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you... My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:) Eoin

Hi All Thanks for the great comments pauldelany I'm going to try Revell Matt 74, I was thinking darker with a Humbrol paint I have in stock;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/6265-Inchicore-Class-J10-Conversion-From-LNER-J72?p=101218&viewfull=1#post101218, but jhb reckons it's to dark so I picked up a few gerys at the Stillorgan show and 74 seems to be best- will know better when its out of the can.... Eoin

A bit of J10-ing today.... The break shoe repair was very successfully and the wheels, rods, & chassis keeper plate are in the paintshop, under-coated and ready for the finish! The existing buffer shanks were cut off after sizing up the sprung buffers from Dart Castings, the white metal cast shanks are for a coach with round fixing plates- it's the lower one in the photo of the shanks, so I turned up my own in aluminium. This was sized to fit the existing plates on the buffer beam and fitted after the holes were opened up. They work well, may have to shorten them a bit but I'll wait until I test fit the chassis and see how the coupler works? So I then set about putting it all together, the valances n steps were glued on and a few stick on rivets added, rivets were also added to the smokebox door. The dart was made from brass rods- 1mm shaft and .5mm handles tapered in the Dremel and soldered into the cross drilled shaft. The cab handrails were fitted as per the photo of 617- .45mm NS wire and a few brass handrail knobs on the lower rails. The whistles were made up from .45mm NS wire and brass tube slid over, the washers at the base of the whistles were made from the 1mm rivet tool with a hole in the middle- these are used elsewhere on the rails n things. The sandboxes were glued on with their actuator rods and a bit of NS wire for the steam supply- I'm guessing here! The control pipes to the smokebox are .45mm NS wire with styrene washers n brass tube to make the entry fitting into the smokebox. The tank lids are styrene- two disks stuck together, the under one smaller to create an overhang. A few more bits are required- vacuum pipes, a nut on the dome, some reinforcing to the front steps, and it's ready for paint..... Eoin

Hi jhb Just to update you with my 6W chassis endeavours as I mentioned on one of your previous 6 Wheeler threads;- I now have a Worsley 'Wayne' coach- a LavComp, I have been collecting parts to work up the plan. 13'' sprung buffers and MJT 6 Wheel Compensated W Iron Kit with free central axle on brass wires, 8ft springs are out of stock at the moment which is holding up things a bit.. and a pcb board chassis plate to fit this kit.. A drawing is been worked on but I would like to have the springs in hand to finalise, I'm not sure yet if I'm using the Worsley W Irons n gear! as I feel the MJT kit is easier! Decisions, Decisions... Do you know that SSM do a number of 6 Wheeler kits? Eoin

Hi Excellent, sounds great, even at a distance Eoin