murrayec

.....and the bit missing from the sequence above;- The connection plate to the chassis, again etched brass folded up and soldered as above, the half etched circle on the plate holds the button on centre while clamped and soldered- then the assembly is clamped and soldered to the chassis Eoin

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Soldering the corners requires a bit of pressure to keep the brass in place, this is where the board with upstand comes into play, the angle of attack with the iron is still low in relation to the metal- flux the join, a good blob of solder on the iron, stick it in, hiss, flow, hold it there for a few secs ensuring the iron is against both sides of the corner.This join can be problematic, if so I reflux, add a small blob of solder to the iron and go at it again I use press buttons to attach the bogies to the chassis, so this goes on next. The hole may need opening out and I use a broach to do that until the button sits down level on the top of the bogie frame, then it's clamped down and away with the soldering Again plenty of flux, a low angle with the iron touching the brass and the side of the button, hiss, flow, move the tip around the button and the molten solder will follow the heat, I add a bit more solder in this process to the iron tip without removing the iron from the metal. The soldering board is again handy here- that it can be rotated on the bench to finish the join The outriggers going on, held with a stick- there is a limit to what my fingers can take! These are held, fluxed, soldered at one end, then the iron is placed at the other end and the solder flows towards the heat. This has to be done quickly keeping in mind that there is a soldered fillet underneath that I don't want melting and falling off Waisted pin point wheel bearings next, the holes need to be opened out for them to fit and I use the broach again to do this. I use a wheel set to hold the bearings in place for soldering. Flux, blob of solder on the iron, and a quick touch against the bearing and frame, hiss..... and done after a really good clean with water and toothbrush, one done and all done, a set of bogie frames for a DART that need a bit of cleaning up and some blackening Eoin

Soldering A 2 Axle Bogie Frame. This is how I solder up a brass 2 axle bogie frame from my home etches for the DART, the same techniques can be applied to most commercially etched bogies and even used for soldering kits! The units are cut from the sheet with a sharp scalpel and the fold lines are cleaned up with a fibre pen. Some of the half etched fold lines are a bit lumpy- a product of home etching, so I clean the lines out with a small triangular file. The cusp from the etch process is also removed from the edges Next the units are folded up, I use Hold n Fold and the like to keep all nice and square. Generally kits are folded with the half etch line to the inside of the fold unless otherwise stated. Use an engineers square and square metal bars to do and check the folds are at 90 deg. All folded and ready for some solder, my soldering board is very handy for this process, I use the 180 deg solder, phorspheric flux, set the solder station to 400deg and use a small tip on the iron. Bogies need to be well soldered, they take a bit of bashing so a good fillet of solder is required on the frame folds, most of the joins are not seen so I lump it on! Always keep in mind- the heat travels through the solder! the solder will flow where the flux is, and keep the iron tip clean all the time These are the bogie side outrigger parts clamped down, a good bit of flux is applied This is the angle of attack- low with a good blob of solder on, lay it into the flux with the iron touching both sides of the angle and hold it there, a mad hiss and spatter and then the solder flows all over, move the iron tip along the join to ensure a nice fillet develops and then remove the tip Nice fillets of solder will reinforce the fold Same approach with the frames, loads of flux, a good blob of solder, low angle of attack, when the solder flows after the big flux hiss move the tip along the fold to ensure the good fillet- the molten solder will follow the heat as long as the tip is not removed

A great tribute David, has to be the only one of it's kind It will be great to see diesel period one day.... Eoin

Hi Tony Refer here for my soldering tips http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3869-Soldering-Tips-by-murrayec?p=59978&viewfull=1#post59978 also take a look at my workbench projects- mainly the stuff on the flying scot which has a huge amount of soldering technique shown. Doing a video on soldering would take years!! Eoin

Hi David Great scenes, those nuns are talking about the length of that colleen's skirt, and she is trying to make it longer- I think one of the nuns was her teacher some time back, and they don't get on! Eoin

Wow GS13545, a lovely looking detailed model, look forward to seeing it in October Eoin

Amazing popeye It's really coming together, I love the workshop jacks for the photos, inspired.... Eoin

I think I have it sorted! The Class A buffers were also locking with the Craven's in reverse- and sorting this problem lead to the solution. I extended out the NEM socket on the Craven so that the coupler buckle was beyond the line of the buffers, it then came to me that if I opened out the side of the 156 Gear Box on the A chassis to give the coupler a bit more swing it may work, it's done and it does. Now the couplers hit the buffers but it does not lock up, it drives backwards through the short Hornby points OK.... Until next time I have the track up I'll post a few picks n video

Hi Guys 'Rough with the Smooth' The same chap with the €5.00 171 gave me this fabulous €3.00 train set.... It's missing a bit of track, but I know a man who can cast plastic. Was thinking of setting it up on a board at the Bray Train Fair for the kids to play with- 'Big Kids' - 'Chung Chung' Eoin

Hi Dave He's going to be OK! my phone is brutal with light and I pushed the picture a bit as it was quite dark which enhanced all the lights. We do have one of your light control units but we forgot to turn them down...... Eoin

Hi Patrick Finally got to run tests on the chassis mounted coupler- it's fine running backwards through points with wagons, but not with a Craven coach- serious lock with the chassis mounted system. When last testing I must not have pushed them backwards! The way I designed the bogie with the little free truck at the front will not be suitable for mounting the coupler from there so I reckon its going to be some type of coupler plate off the chassis to allow more side swing! like a Keen Plate- but they are two wide. This will also require a wider slot in the body buffer beam as coupler height in within the beam area.... Some drawing is required Eoin

Hi Well on a busy Friday morning last in Greystones 617 setout from the shop with a light train for its first trials, things did not go well and the lads had to limp back to the shop. They did take in the sights and snapped a few shots while stopped at the Breeches waiting for the Wicklow Commuter to go by, and have a chat with Paddy- who has been working on that rock removal for the past year.... Back in the workshop with assessment made it was decided that the electrical pick up was the main problem for failure and I set about improving this- two PB strips were made up to push against the wheel boss from the underside, making contact with the wheels and the chassis improved the pick up immensely. Springs n wheels in place and keeper plate about to go on. Then off to the test track...... Eoin

Hi all Just a reminder that the Train & Model Fair is on this Sunday coming......

Hi David & Mike I thought I'd re-post this here for future reference, I hope yous don't minds.... Eoin

Hi All Thanks very much with the fantastic comments Should have a video of it on the Greystones Layout- it's home, on Friday next.... According to Mr Clements all 5 of this type spent their entire lives banking and shunting at North Wall goods yard. But in our minds 617 'Pioneer' escaped and can be seen shunting in Greystones very soon.... Westhy We need a number for the front buffer beam?- there is a picture of 618 showing it's number on page 202 of Mr Clements book- it seems to be a dark colour on a white drop shadow and numbers would be 2.5mm high.... Eoin

Thanks Noel That's his sandwiches, sure that Inchicore vintage chap wouldn't be able to eat an iPhone.... Eoin

No. 617 is now complete;- Some serious horsing to get the body on over the chip, wires and light board, but eventually got it to work! If one is going to do this job I would suggest taking off at least another 2mm from the top of the chassis to make it easier. A few little touch up will be done- take the shine off the coal and replace the coupler with a shorter one. The lads are having a chat about their new command. and just a picture to remind where this came from. off to the track next week for some trials. Eoin

Hi David Interesting article, the simplest way to extend the axles would be to cut them and sleeve them with brass tube to the broad gauge size, taking note of the square ends and setting them up to run true before soldering- the drive axle would have to be extended off centre, or if the brass sleeve used is not to thick- ream out the drive gear to fit?? Eoin

Hi Paul We used to have them here, two coach, but they kept crashing into things and they removed them... Eoin

Hi David I have considered this several times, the Ixion model is lovely, it's even more akin to 'Erin' (300) a contractors engine used to construct the Wexford to Rosslare Railway and then used in stock on the Waterford & Wexford Railway. Erin had the outside rear bunker, round windows, and the Ixion model only needs the steam dome, sand boxes, and maybe a buffer change. I reckon the wheels only need counter weights installed and its pretty close.. Eoin

Yep, I reckoned you'd be on soon! you must be in need of a horn?... did you get the 100ohm speaker? Eoin