-
Posts
2,609 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
67
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Resource Library
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Store
Community Map
Everything posted by murrayec
-
Hi I've just completed two 21mm DART sets for a chap and last year converted two 141s & two 071s to 21mm- both are private layouts if that counts? I also have two separate orders for 21mm Class A chassis Eoin
-
Hi all The J10 now has all its bits on- vacuum pipes fixed into the buffer beam with brass split pins, period coupler irons at the front, and then to cap it all- a nut on the dome.... Stuff in the paintshop, and some under-coated, I have decided to go with Humbrol 27 following a previous post Oh and Noel especially for you;- Eoin
-
-
Thanks again all for comments pauldelany Those plates are spoken for, for this project and another chap. Next time I do etching I will include plates for you... My sympathies to you on your mrsi membership:) Eoin
-
Hi All Thanks for the great comments pauldelany I'm going to try Revell Matt 74, I was thinking darker with a Humbrol paint I have in stock;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/6265-Inchicore-Class-J10-Conversion-From-LNER-J72?p=101218&viewfull=1#post101218, but jhb reckons it's to dark so I picked up a few gerys at the Stillorgan show and 74 seems to be best- will know better when its out of the can.... Eoin
-
A bit of J10-ing today.... The break shoe repair was very successfully and the wheels, rods, & chassis keeper plate are in the paintshop, under-coated and ready for the finish! The existing buffer shanks were cut off after sizing up the sprung buffers from Dart Castings, the white metal cast shanks are for a coach with round fixing plates- it's the lower one in the photo of the shanks, so I turned up my own in aluminium. This was sized to fit the existing plates on the buffer beam and fitted after the holes were opened up. They work well, may have to shorten them a bit but I'll wait until I test fit the chassis and see how the coupler works? So I then set about putting it all together, the valances n steps were glued on and a few stick on rivets added, rivets were also added to the smokebox door. The dart was made from brass rods- 1mm shaft and .5mm handles tapered in the Dremel and soldered into the cross drilled shaft. The cab handrails were fitted as per the photo of 617- .45mm NS wire and a few brass handrail knobs on the lower rails. The whistles were made up from .45mm NS wire and brass tube slid over, the washers at the base of the whistles were made from the 1mm rivet tool with a hole in the middle- these are used elsewhere on the rails n things. The sandboxes were glued on with their actuator rods and a bit of NS wire for the steam supply- I'm guessing here! The control pipes to the smokebox are .45mm NS wire with styrene washers n brass tube to make the entry fitting into the smokebox. The tank lids are styrene- two disks stuck together, the under one smaller to create an overhang. A few more bits are required- vacuum pipes, a nut on the dome, some reinforcing to the front steps, and it's ready for paint..... Eoin
-
Hi jhb Just to update you with my 6W chassis endeavours as I mentioned on one of your previous 6 Wheeler threads;- I now have a Worsley 'Wayne' coach- a LavComp, I have been collecting parts to work up the plan. 13'' sprung buffers and MJT 6 Wheel Compensated W Iron Kit with free central axle on brass wires, 8ft springs are out of stock at the moment which is holding up things a bit.. and a pcb board chassis plate to fit this kit.. A drawing is been worked on but I would like to have the springs in hand to finalise, I'm not sure yet if I'm using the Worsley W Irons n gear! as I feel the MJT kit is easier! Decisions, Decisions... Do you know that SSM do a number of 6 Wheeler kits? Eoin
-
Hi Excellent, sounds great, even at a distance Eoin
-
untilAt Bray Wheelers Clubhouse, Schools Road, Off Boghall Road. Bray. 11.00 till 4.00ish, do come early!
-
Green! http://www.lococarriage.org.uk/Mk3%20and%20Cravens%20for%20paint%20testing.jpg
-
Hi patrick Next time the test track is up I'll push some rolling stock through the points, I did test the chassis with a couple of Cravens forward and backwards through the points with no problems, but did not test something smaller/lighter without the close coupling unit!! I will report back Eoin
-
Hi patrick I'm really only working with the coupler off the chassis, the pony truck may cause trouble for mounting a coupler! and the SF buffer beam is in the way! but could see what happens, Have you something in mind? Eoin
-
Shorter couplings for MM Cravens and Mk2s?
murrayec replied to Noel's question in Questions & Answers
Hi If one does mount to the bogie or the body, bare in mind that you are then removing the close coupling device that widens out the gap for going around the bends! Eoin -
-
Shorter couplings for MM Cravens and Mk2s?
murrayec replied to Noel's question in Questions & Answers
That's model trains Noel I reckon mistakes were made and then later made good! Just do the one connecting to the loco and the last one- much easier Eoin -
Shorter couplings for MM Cravens and Mk2s?
murrayec replied to Noel's question in Questions & Answers
Hi Noel We discussed this problem before? http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/3704-Shorter-couplings-for-MM-Cravens-and-Mk2s?p=65253&viewfull=1#post65253 Eoin -
I hung the Scot cab roof this evening... I wanted the roof to be removable and devised a plan to hook it in there with some brass noggled strips. The back end of the cab sides did not line up with the roof, the kit relies on the roof to support these when glued on... So a .5mm thick curvy frame was cut out and filed up n soldered in The noggled strips were cut from .28mm thick brass 40mm long, the noggel was achieved by sandwiching the strip between two strips of .5mm brass, one on one side and the other on the other with a 1.5mm gap between the bending edges, taped together and scrunched in the bench vice The noggel The roof was marked up with the strips in trial position, then the roof was scored with a knife, ditto to the brass strips after a good clean with the fibre brush and the lot was epoxied with a little bit of cling film around the cab wall top so that only the brass strips stick to the roof I'll leave that for the night and see how it worked in the morning Eoin
-
-
untilhttp://www.modelvillage.ie/
-
Deadly Broithe, thanks very much... Did you bake the SFX Capsule in! Eoin
-
Hi PaulC Here are a few links to what your looking for, the second one is the full story;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2047-NIR-80-class?p=30885&viewfull=1#post30885 http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/2345-NIR-80-Class-DEMU?p=34604&viewfull=1#post34604 The best way I find stuff on the forum is do a Google search and check the photos that come up and then follow the link using the photo, if you hover the mouse over the photo you'll see where it's going to lead you to.... Eoin
-
....Hay look! that was my 1,000 post 1,000 today Eoin
-
Hi Not a bad idea if your not overly concerned about sound, it is cheaper than a sound chip. Drawbacks would be, doesn't sound great, you would have to put a wagon or coach with all your engines to have sound, it's on all the time and to switch it off you would have to open the unit its in n pop the battery, all your engines types would sound the same, its motion detection response is slow, you cant change the sounds.... I would save the money one would spend on this, add to it, and buy a DCC sound chip. I think its worth it in the long run... Eoin
-
Hi jhb I mentioned light blue because of a few photos I've seen- Tom Ferris book 'Irish Railways in colour' page 92, and there is a photo on rmweb of the same one;- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94905-kanturk-and-newmarket-railway-co-cork/, and I also saw another photo which I cant locate at the moment- all looking decidedly light blue? It could be silver and the film has gone off! Ferris does refer to film problems in the introduction to the book.... Eoin
-
... and here is the front from Google Maps, this gives you the fenestration to work up the front elevation after you have counted the bricks to do the rear!, interesting to see they plastered the front, I'd say the sea salt was wrecking the brick? Eoin