Colonel

Outside frame locos always look good with the cranks twirling.

Great stuff - it is a very nice kit and remember that when I built my first one over ten years ago, it went together really well, especially the simple, fold up chassis. However, might have to hide behind the sofa as recent projects on these locos make me think my model will now be generic at best!

A virtual layout... Guess it had to come sometime and am certainly not belittling such an intriguing project as clearly a lot of work and research has already taken place. The skills are different, but the end product will be fascinating. Looking forwards, with developments in AI, we could get see virtual time machines that could take us back to any point in railway history that we fancy. It may not be railway modelling as we know it, but it still has much to offer.

Don't know, but whoever was sitting on it probably need a fresh pair of underpants...

Having done a decent job so far on the body, I'd say go for it with the chassis. There are rtr and bogie kits out there that are worth looking up. Try 'Locos n Stuff'. Mainly narrow gauge, but Mark Clarke does a large range and offers both etched and 3D printed chassis, including replacements for Tenshodo spuds. I've got one of his bogies under my 21mm gauge Donegal railcar and it runs very nicely. He doesn't advertise widely, but his website is a delight, with all sorts of ideas and products. Even if you are not interested in narrow gauge, there is something for everyone here!

Yep, that is very nice indeed. Always worth filing a small flat on the tyres, which makes any vehicle 'sit' - as though it has real weight.

Great scenes and though I've said it before, fine trackwork that actually looks broad gauge. Just goes to show how lower profile rail improves things.

A Chatham Club member did it back in the early 90s on an 0 gauge LMS Crab 2-6-0, using a Portescap RG7 to move the gear and a second one to drive the loco. At the time, remember I wasn't alone in being very unimpressed at the use of an expensive motor just to move a small part of the linkage a few millimetres. Thinking about it now, it was seriously clever stuff in that pre digital age. Not for me though - but I have put working inside motion in my Sligo Leitrim 'Large Tank'. Fiddly, but easier than Walschaerts. That said, in model form, valve gear isn't as daunting as it might seem. Building a working chassis can be far more time consuming.

Looking at recent comments on Alan's workbench, am finding there are issues with the Battle of Britain loco - though some [all?] of them may be down to build faults, rather than the Acme kit. No idea how old it is, or who the original builder was, but when it came to fitting the valve gear, quickly found that things were wrong, not least the bracket holding the expansion link had been soldered too far back. This led to the radius rod being unable to reach valve rod from the top half of the cylinders. The solution was to move the bracket forward and suddenly, everything started to fit. The Premier Components valve gear parts, being profile milled nickel silver, are nice and chunky, but don't come with with aforementioned valve rods, so I had to make them, using nickel silver wire for the rod itself, to which a short pieces of brass tube was soldered. Then filed a flat on this to which I soldered a link from an old fret of steel inside motion parts, which was then bent twice at 90 degrees to align it with the radius rod. I've used 12 and 14ba nuts and bolts to assemble the valve gear parts, although I've now run out after doing one side, so am awaiting an order from Squires to complete the other side. However, have at least been able to test what I've built so far, though wasn't surprised to find some more fettling was needed. The loco was built as a static model and while the coupling rods roll well enough, one of the connecting rods was fouling the centre crank pin, so this needed filing back to clear. The valve gear has been about 90% ok, but there is a clunk which I think I've traced to the valve rod and combination lever - see below: The combination lever is the part that 'hangs' vertically from the valve rod [the cranked piece sticking out of the top cylinder]. I've fitted a short link from the top of the combination lever to the U shaped bracket running across the frames, but the valve rod is still flapping around. Now, I've only ever fitted outside Walschaert's twice, both more than ten years ago, so if anyone has any ideas, please let me know. For example, one option might be fix the valve rod in the cylinder, to stop it moving at all, letting the rest of the motion take up the slack, but not sure if this will work. More pictures below may [or may not] help. You'll see the tapered reamer now has a better [temporary] replacement in the form of the cut down cocktail stick. This will eventually be replaced with some nickel silver wire when I make up the other side. Meanwhile, things are progressing on Sidhe, aka the Fairy/Sprite pay train. First, I added some weight, both to the front end of the boiler and in the side tanks, both nicely over the driving wheels. With that done I could then put the outer skin on the tanks. With hind sight, I should probably have used some thin brass for this, as the 20thou plasticard split on the curve on one side, needing some epoxy to fill the gaps. Other work has included front buffer housings [nice brass ones I had in store], cab steps and the two boxes, one each side, below the footplate. No idea what they were for though... The smokebox door came next, along with some beading around the splashers. I tried making a chimney this morning and not having any suitable brass rod, though I'd try turning one from dowel. However, as you can see, it didn't work out, because the wood I used is not dense enough. Oh well, now need to put in an order for some more brass rod. You might just notice that the frames have been primed and painted, but there are still plenty of jobs left, including cab interior detail, boiler fittings, various hand rails & so on, so a while to go before painting.

Great photos - it could have been such a good preservation project...

Fine work! All sorts of interesting ideas and techniques here that are well worth considering for future projects. Just need to remember to check this thread first when the time comes...

When you look at the photo of the footplate on the chassis, it is easy to see why rtr Irish steam outline locos are so rare. The extra width required for 21mm gauge makes accommodating splashers a compromise too far. Had to smile at the coupling hook - done the same (or similar), so many times...

Peco do Gauge 1, as do Tenmille and Cliff Barker. Marcway of Sheffield might be worth a look, as they certainly do custom work in 0 gauge. I've been happy to use Code 100 FB rail and copperclad sleepers for light weight broad gauge on Northport Quay, Belmullet and Arigna Town, but can't help thinking that the larger scale will benefit from proper chairs and fixings. Last time I costed buying rail and sleepers to make my own track, using C&L parts, it wasn't much cheaper that buying ready made!

That looks splendid - well done. As Alan says, shame it won't be running, but will definitely pose nicely! Great addition to the 7mm scale SLNCR list.

Valencia Harbour, Courtmacsherry and several narrow gauge, including several Donegal, plus Arigna and Victoria Bridge. He also has done North British, Vale of Rheidol and Welshpool with his latest project being GWR broad gauge! He could actually mount a small exhibition on his own, though would need a fair bit of help!

They've got more than enough stock to fill the storage sidings, but (like all of us, I guess) always want more to ring the changes. Mick is a prolific builder and works to a very high standard, with all his steam outline locos having working inside valve gear (3mmfs, remember). Last time I spoke with him, he was busy making bogie coaches. Forget which type, but scratch built bodies, in nickel silver with all the window openings fretted out by hand...

Truth can be as strange as fiction. Several classes of British locos at work across Europe, including 66s and, recently 91s in Bulgaria.

Elegant solution to the problem, Alan.

Great to follow the progress John. Lovely models of lovely engines.

7mm broad gauge is pretty niche and have long had to rely on mail order for materials, especially as specialist suppliers are increasingly reluctant to visit shows. Traders have to pay for their stands, so factor in travel costs as well and they might not make much money at all. When I joined the Chatham Club's exhibition team, my bright idea of supporting the Trade by letting them come free was soon shot down. Essentially entrance fees for the public would need to at least double... Traders and manufacturers are the backbone of our hobby, so like everything else, they have to move with the times. Don't always like it, but better than the alternative, I suppose.

Or acquire a set of rolling bars. Mine are on long term loan from the Club. Seems that I'm the only scratchbuilder of rolling stock these days, so they now live in my workshop.

Some fine photos there. As well as the wagons, the one with the J11 shows an interesting piece of trackwork, with two points, very close together with a catch point somehow sandwiched in between.

Accurascale have a stand booked at this year's Chatham Show in July.

Remember that coaches and wagons can always be a different colour on the other side, but excellent models, whatever the livery.

I was thinking more along the Kleenex line. Normally two ply, but a single layer could work for thickness. Colour another matter though.