Glenderg

Needs a bit more red in it all right. Bit of dirt will hide it

Just picking up on this now tom, and what i really like about it is the serious large curve that makes the most of the board, aligned with the possibly of extending the boards eastward if possible at a later stage. Love the little siding by the bridge on the south part, can imagine it as a perfect photo location! Richie.

Don't believe a word of it Jaw. It was Bullied's famous, yet short lived, polka dot livery trial... JHB can confirm

40mm paint round, for context

bogie centres 141 has 22'6" 121 has 20'9" hunslet has 23'6" C Class has 21' either way there'd be a bit of choppin involved, but knock out 11mm out of a 141 chassis, and there's the ideal platform for a 121, bogie sideframes and all.

Chassis only? Yes indeedy....plans afoot...

i would - just leave the body in a bath of brake fluid overnight. If you want to leave it as is, give it a thorough scrub in warm water first, a gentle rub down with wire wool/ light wet and dry to remove decals or stripes, then apply the new coat when it's dry. No need for primer. Richie

For that kind of loot, I'd expect it to be hand delivered.

Superb video, the quality is wicked. I posted the drawings of them in their previous form sometime ago (2 years?) Anyway, when I get a chance to update them, perhaps over the weekend I'll get them and a few photos into the resource section.

Not sure there were two different builds Rich, but it would appear there were additions made to the original 50. Open to correction, of course. Old Style - August 2012 New Style - Added hoods at the rear to avoid clogging up at the ends, a central clamp between two containers that stops them moving, and additional bracing from the lower quarters upward. I reckon this is to support the angles inside the wagon when the jcb or whatever scrapes out the contents. May 2014 Richie.

Given one of Model railways' urban myths is that at Colin Massingham's funeral the lid didnt fit on the coffin its a fair bet that the kit is a pile of "merde" as they say across the channel. He made the MTK stuff.

As my wife says - "grown men talking about toys" - bit of perspective here folks. No-ones going to seize up over a 141/181.

Yes, I have them to offer, but their not public cos i've far too many commitments with the weedspray set, and it takes a phenomenal amount of time to do instructions for any future kits. But i have the roof detail, side overlays, ssm decals, fuel tanks, and both sides for both bsk and bck variants. Props to wally for making the bck variat happen incidentally. Pm me if you've an interest in a "blind" kit. Richie Edit - windows also supllied in a finished or u finished state.

That's a sliverfox model noel, either rtr or kit available. Boxcar willie has just completed a kit build with mousa overlay brass etches - another option. Richie

The poor wife and dog (3:20)sitting on the couch listening to that...

Any varnish at all, except humbrol clear gloss varnish (water based). Weshty has provided me with decals for same van of late and they're spot on. He'd be the man to ask. In the interest of fairness railtec also supplies - item 5646. R

In a past life, i did a lot of work with liturgical brassware, and one chap who spent his life restoring it always said that his biggest hate was when lazy cleaners simply varnished the brass to avoid a bit of elbow grease. The varnish would not come off easy. Ever since i've washed brass in vinegar first and then given a coat of varnish, left to harden for 24hours before the finish coats go on. I have a cheat for you though if you want to put the tamiya back on and straighten up the lines. Apply masking tape - spray with airbrush, get hairdryer, set on max, and like airbrushing dry the paint. Give it another coat and repeat with hairdryer. The hairdryer will soften the adhesive of the masking tape and it will peel off like a rotten banana leaving your paint finish dry and intact. R.

some nice looking projects afoot keep us posted.

Very nice work on the van Mike, the roof treatment is a cracking idea. I'm not familiar with solvaset, but I reckon that a coat of sealer/varnish should be enough to blend the surface of the model with the lip of the decal so that the weathering powders don't catch on the decal in future. Perhaps a thinned coat of the grey airbrushed on around the outside of the decal would soften the edge, holding a bit of card over the numbers and let the overspray do it's thing? R.

humbrol 48 ?

Dhu - are you Strictly enamel or acrylic. There may be a bit mixing involved in either code.

No, lol. I'm not a reluctant subscriber to the concept, in fact i think it's a superb control solution - ipads, phones, automatically control etc. Bosko's Amiens St being a case in point. I would love to go dcc, but theres something niggling at me, that being that chips produced for around 10p are sold for frankly ludicrous sums of money, not to mention sound chips, speakers and all that. It's quite an investment for a novice to change control method and install all the chips. R.

Superb livery choice, credit to all round - it has the "smell of money" about it, just what the Yanks are after! From a modelling point of view, it's much more straightforward than other blue and yellow one, though the 1" black line might be a tricky prospect with a lining pen.... *heads off to mix some blue paint...*

Holy foam cutting batman! That's impressive progress Dave. As for the Labrador, not impressed with his/her work ethic! R.

DC makes the loco go back and forward. DCC makes more than one go back an forward at the same time. Can't see any reason why you'd want to do that in fairness. or install sound. My missus keeps telling me us menfolk are not equipped with multitasking (we are DC creatures). The ladies are generally speakin the truth rich R