Tullygrainey Posted October 10 Author Posted October 10 Spoke too soon! Looking again at the Casserley photo in Leslie's post above, the running plate narrows ahead of the tanks. Bu**er.Â
Mayner Posted October 11 Posted October 11 5 hours ago, Tullygrainey said: While waiting for replacement wheels, I've  made a start on No 9's running plate in 16 thou (0.4mm) brass. Buffer beams are 2 layers of 16 thou nickel silver plus an extra 5 thou brass layer on the front one - photos of the prototype suggest it might be made of wood with a metal facing.  Buffer shanks are from Alan Gibson (4908, Early GWR, Dean). Reggie the Soldering Unit made a neat job of soldering these on.  1.5mm square brass rod for the valances stiffens the whole thing nicely and gives it some much needed strength.  The front chassis spacer slides under a little bit of 1.5mm brass angle the same width soldered to the back of the buffer beam. This secures the chassis and keeps it centred. At the back there's a 10BA bolt into a captive nut on the running plate. No disasters today. Alan  Fair play Alan in building quite a fleet of BCDR locos, stock and Kilmore largely using traditional scratch building techniques. How do you cut brass/nickle silver so neatly? 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 11 Author Posted October 11 7 hours ago, Mayner said: Fair play Alan in building quite a fleet of BCDR locos, stock and Kilmore largely using traditional scratch building techniques. How do you cut brass/nickle silver so neatly? Ah John, I play safe. After scribing guide lines, I drill holes near each corner and cut inboard of the lines with the piercing saw. No need to be too precise (first photo). Then I file up to the lines using needle files (second photo). 3 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 11 Author Posted October 11 15 hours ago, Tullygrainey said: Spoke too soon! Looking again at the Casserley photo in Leslie's post above, the running plate narrows ahead of the tanks. Bu**er. I could've left the running plate as it was - scratch building in 4mm is full of compromises, a track gauge of 16.5mm being not the least of those - but I knew it would bother me so, biting the bullet and ladling on the flux, the valances came off again. Not particularly neatly.  New shaped valances made up and soldered in. Bending that 1.5mm square brass rod is no joke, even after annealing it.  Running plate shaped to match and cleaned up.  Shuffling forward quietly and pretending it never happened Alan 7 1
Mol_PMB Posted October 11 Posted October 11 1 minute ago, Tullygrainey said: I could've left the running plate as it was - scratch building in 4mm is full of compromises, a track gauge of 16.5mm being not the least of those - but I knew it would bother me so, biting the bullet and ladling on the flux, the valances came off again. Not particularly neatly. Â New shaped valances made up and soldered in. Bending that 1.5mm square brass rod is no joke, even after annealing it. Â Running plate shaped to match and cleaned up. Â Shuffling forward quietly and pretending it never happened Alan Well done! You'll soon forget the pain and be glad you did it. 1 1
popeye Posted October 11 Posted October 11 When you know it's wrong it won't leave your head until you fix it. 1
Colonel Posted October 12 Posted October 12 I must try harder when using those fine saw blades as your results speak for themselves. Have I said that I use a slitting disc in a Dremel for such stuff? Crude in the extreme, though sort of works in 7mm scale, even if it does feel like using a chainsaw at times. 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 12 Author Posted October 12 (edited) I think it's worth paying a little extra for decent piercing saw blades. I've found that the cheaper ones are harder to control and the cut tends to drift sideways. I always buy Vallorbe blades now - grades 2, 4 and 6 - the bigger the number the finer the cut. Edited October 12 by Tullygrainey typo 1 3 1
Galteemore Posted October 12 Posted October 12 Horrible experience Alan. Reminds me of ‘boiler gate’ when I had to shorten a rolled and soldered boiler that I had made too long, by removing a slice of about 2mm in the middle. But once you’ve seen the error…. 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 15 Author Posted October 15 (edited) Moving forward again with No.9. First, a cab flatpack in 16 thou nickel silver. A jolly afternoon spent with piercing saw and files, listening to the rain on the roof window.  The window surrounds on the cab front sheet came from this lovely Mainly Trains etch (MT226) designed by Iain Rice and available from Wizard Models.  Bunker bits. More nickel silver and some embossed rivet detail.  Boiler rolled from a rectangle of 10 thou brass...  Firebox end has 3 additional layers with the front edge contoured. The smokebox will get another layer to incorporate the smokebox saddle. Given that this one will be driven on the front axle, I'll need to keep clearance for the gearbox. Haven't quite sorted this yet.  Travelling hopefully Alan   Edited October 15 by Tullygrainey 10 4
Galteemore Posted October 15 Posted October 15 That’s lovely neat work. Almost looks like a kit! 1 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 20 Author Posted October 20 (edited) Tanks for No.9. Nickel silver with 0.7mm brass beading and 0.45mm brass handrails.  I think modelling Irish locos in OO 16.5mm gauge is finally about to jump up and bite me. The smokebox is due to get another wrapper, including the saddle linking it to the running plate and I suspect that the front wheels and the saddle both want to claim the same bit of real estate. Pushing on regardless. I foresee terrible trouble but I stay here just the same, as someone once said. Alan  Edited October 20 by Tullygrainey 11 2
Galteemore Posted October 20 Posted October 20 Am sure you’ll find a solution Alan. Looks absolutely fabulous 2 1
Colonel Posted October 21 Posted October 21 Dirty Work, from Can't Buy a Thrill. First Steely Dan album to the uninitiated. Finding a suitable line from the Dan to describe the model isn't coming to me at the moment, but as Galteemore says, it looks fab. 1 1
Mol_PMB Posted October 21 Posted October 21 40 minutes ago, Colonel said: Dirty Work, from Can't Buy a Thrill. First Steely Dan album to the uninitiated. Finding a suitable line from the Dan to describe the model isn't coming to me at the moment, but as Galteemore says, it looks fab. I'm not sure it's very Steely. So far the model looks more like Nickelback or New York Brass. With Solder as the supporting act. 1
Tullygrainey Posted October 21 Author Posted October 21 1 hour ago, Colonel said: Dirty Work, from Can't Buy a Thrill. First Steely Dan album to the uninitiated. Finding a suitable line from the Dan to describe the model isn't coming to me at the moment, but as Galteemore says, it looks fab. Knew you'd spot it! 1
Tullygrainey Posted Saturday at 16:14 Author Posted Saturday at 16:14 (edited) The chassis for No.9 is finally wheeled up and the rods are on. Rolls smoothly under finger power - first hurdle cleared. Crankpin nuts tightened up. Still rolling smoothly - second hurdle negotiated.  Motor fitted and power applied - hurdle three behind us! IMG_6042.MOV  Meanwhile, the bodywork is coming along. The smokebox wrapper/saddle was a pig to attach as usual, the main difficulty being getting enough heat into the job whilst trying to keep things straight and tightly wrapped. Destroyed 2 in the process. I have now embossed about a million rivets. By contrast, the clash between smokebox and front wheels mentioned in the previous post was easier to fix than I expected. Just needed a sliverette (of course that's a word) clipped off the rear edges of the saddle thus ...  ... and it's all more or less hidden behind the splashers.  Some cutting and filing got the motor/gearbox to fit inside without too much having to be removed from the boiler bottom. Drive to the front axle and a compensation beam between the other two...  ... and this is progress to date.  Chassis now needs brakes and pickups but that's a trauma for another day Alan Edited Saturday at 16:18 by Tullygrainey 9 2
Colonel Posted Sunday at 07:11 Posted Sunday at 07:11 Coming on very well and with every respect to our 3D printers, this is very much the sort of modelling I enjoy seeing. Both have their merits, both take time and skill, but there is something rather splendid in seeing a model evolve, like the real thing. 1 1
Galteemore Posted Sunday at 07:52 Posted Sunday at 07:52 (edited) That’s gorgeous Alan. Really inspiring to see it coming together. With you on wrappers ! Edited Sunday at 08:28 by Galteemore 1
Tullygrainey Posted 20 hours ago Author Posted 20 hours ago Some detail added to No.9 while the stormy winds blew outside. Lamp irons (scratch), vacuum pipes (Gibson) and steps (More Iain Rice designed etches from Wizard).  Earlier, when I wasn't looking, this happened...  Absolute pain to fix neatly. The fitter responsible has been sent back to soldering school for the rest of the week. This will probably need filler  No.9 now has pickups on the driving wheels - 31 swg phosphor bronze wire bearing on the wheel treads.  I'd rather make the contact on the wheel flanges from above but that's been nearly impossible to arrange on this one without risking them shorting on the running plate or clashing with the brake hangers which still need to be added. Having said that, my model of BCDR No.6 has the same arrangement as this and has been reliable.  So far.  Trial run under DC - shuffling along nicely. IMG_6056.MOV  Chips soon. Alan 6 1
Galteemore Posted 19 hours ago Posted 19 hours ago That’s lovely. Inspiring me to make a start on my next one…  1
Tullygrainey Posted 19 hours ago Author Posted 19 hours ago 7 minutes ago, Galteemore said: That’s lovely. Inspiring me to make a start on my next one…  Very glad to hear that David! 1
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