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Cab light problem with MM 201s and Hattons DCR-21pin DCC decoder

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declan64
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I've just chipped two MM 201's with Hatton's DCR-21pin DCC decoder.

Everything works fine except for the cab lights.

I know the lights work as I previously had a Lokosound decoder in one of the 201s an it could control the cab light.

 

My CV settings are as follows:

CV33 = 1

CV34 = 2

CV35 = 4

CV36 = 8

 

CV49 = 0

CV50 = 16

CV51 = 32

CV52 = 32

 

F0 - controls the front and rear lights fine

F1 - turns the front headlight permanently ON/OFF (now I'd ideally like the headlight to switch automatically to the rear when the loco is reversed)

F2 - turns the rear headlight permanently ON/OFF

F3 - Does nothing - was hoping this would turn the cab light ON/OFF

 

I have to say that the documentation supporting DCC decoders and DCC-ready locos is pathetic.

When you spend 150+ euro on a DCC ready loco and 250+ euro on DCC sound loco the lack of supporting material really isn't good enough.

Posting complete CV settings on the web doesn't cost a lot. Rant over.

 

Any help with the above would be welcome.

I'm going to email Hatton's support as well and will post any response here to share with people.

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How many functions does the hattons chip have? It might not have enough for the 201.

 

That's the problem.

 

The Hattons decoders have 4 functions; 2 are used by the front and rear marker lights, 1 for the forward headlight, 1 for the rear headlight. To operate the cab lights requires 2 more so a 6 function decoder is needed.

Edited by irishthump
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F0 - controls the front and rear lights fine

F1 - turns the front headlight permanently ON/OFF (now I'd ideally like the headlight to switch automatically to the rear when the loco is reversed)

F2 - turns the rear headlight permanently ON/OFF

F3 - Does nothing - was hoping this would turn the cab light ON/OFF

 

 

You can re-map the function keys so that one button will turn the headlights on and off and they will light up in the direction of travel, but you won't be able to control the cab lights.

 

I just looked at the Hattons listing for that decoder and they don't have a manual to download!

 

Try these settings:

 

CV51 - 0

CV52 - 16

CV36 - 4

 

This should give you directional headlights controlled by F1.

Edited by irishthump
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First of all thanks to all who responded.

 

The nub of my problem is indeed the requirement for 2 additional control outputs on the 4-output Hattons DCC controller (to bring it to 6 in total)!

 

I implemented the headlight directional change recommended and it works fine so many thanks for that.

 

Hatton's reponse to my query was to use F8 so I've let them know this was never going to work!

Hattons offer the option to chip DCC ready locos when you order them so I hope they use a 6-output controller .....

 

So what to do next? Well the Hattons controllers are excellent value (half the price of the MM versions) and I'm happy with their motor control so I'm going to stick with them for now with an intent to upgrade one of the 201s to sound in the future.

 

The exercise has been a good learning so thanks again to those who contributed.

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I implemented the headlight directional change recommended and it works fine so many thanks for that.

 

 

Glad that worked for you, Declan.

The Hattons chips are rebadged Gaugemaster decoders. You can download the manual for them here - http://www.ehattons.com/media/md4instructions.pdf

It's the manual for the 8 pin version, but all the CVs are the same.

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I've an 071 flagged for cab light surgery... Want to try a lower lumens warm white led in there...

 

Agree the cab lighting is a bit like a bordello. However there are CVs on the MM rebadged ESU chips that can turn the brightness right down. It's still a cold blue light, would be better with more yellow in the mix.

 

I've been using €25 four function Lenz Silver+ decoders on my 071s and don't miss the cab lights one bit.

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Is it feasible to mask/filter the existing LED with a felt pen?

 

You could reduce the brightness, but its not possible to change the colour (i.e. light wavelength) coming from an LED, unlike incandescent light bulbs which emit nearly the whole colour spectrum, hence filters work.

Edited by Noel
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You could reduce the brightness, but its not possible to change the colour (i.e. light frequency) coming from an LED, unlike incandescent light bulbs which emit nearly the whole colour spectrum, hence filters work.

A red filter will surely reduce the amount of blue passing through, for example? It's true that white LEDs only usually emit three single colour spikes, rather than the full spectrum, but a coloured filter will still change the relative heights of those spikes.

 

It seems odd to sell these otherwise.

 

P7%20filter%20set%20(2).jpg

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Well it's a looooong time since I was at school, but I vaguely remember you can't create one wavelength of light from another (i.e. different colours using filters from a single wavelength on the spectrum). But I could be wrong. That's why so many low energy LED lighting system emit cold colours and cannot be corrected to warmer light colours using filters. Their colour tone has improved a lot in the past five years but you can't beat a few non-LED light bulbs for nice mood lighting at home. The first lot of LED spots we put in at home years ago had such a blue tint I replaced them after only three months. I noticed some model locos have nice warm colour spot lights whereas others are like blue lasers and don't look prototypical.

 

This may help explain http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visible_spectrum

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It's a long time since I was at school, too, and, as you say, filters have never created one wavelength out of another, they just select what passes through and what doesn't.

 

Try putting a filter in front of a white LED and see what happens, be it a warm white or a cool white one.

 

If you want warm white LEDs, then they are available, though the packaging is often lacking in information. They just have less blue output than a cool white one does.

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