Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Hi all, Im not a great photographer of my work , but I thought you might like to see the Ballast plough van as it progresses I very heavyily modified the SSM brass etch and completely reworked the dapol chassis, widening it out to a scale width that then suits the etch , adding brake clasp detail. vac through piping and building up some thickness of the veranda supports and rain strips I also modified the SSM etch to add the missing third window since Ive always been a scratch built plastikard sort of guy, this was my first complete brass etch with all soldered construction . I learned a lot , the next one will be much better The paint is also a new departure for me, the under coat is halford grey etch primer and the top coast is Tamiya Acrylic Flat yellow , sprayed on. Since I never used an airbrush before this was quite the learning curve and theres a few gotchy bits Next up , steps, final painting ( the white was added just for this photo !) and some touch up. I use Dingham couplers, so these have to be added .though the correct headstock plate is in place , trim the lamp brackets ! glazing has to be done Then the massive weathering as these vehicles were very dirty inuse well its passes the 2 foot test anyway !!! the mark on the door has to be fixed ( there was a wee accident with a brush with butanone, which dissolves acrylics in a heartbeat !) ( or maybe it will give it character when I weather it all, they did get fairly beat up in practice ) Edited March 14, 2016 by Junctionmad 1 Quote
Glenderg Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Well holy god! Nice work indeed, veranda strips, vaac pipe, torpedo roof vent, and whitemetal parts - top stuff. Big ol buffer plates on top of the buffers and it's close to perfect! Lastly, loads of photos dave. I love to see the process no matter the outcome. R. Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 The buffer plates are there Glenderg , the originals were a wee bit bigger also I added the clasp brake bars, that run across the brake shoes and brake safety loops too. mostly they are in shadow for my sins I converted the buffer into sprung ones by drilling out the white metal , not really worth it in the end as with the Dinghams they dont touch ( mores the pity ) well it started like this unfortunately , after I soldered up the etch , I realised the third window needed adding , so I put it up on my milling machine, and milled out the window, not easy to do , and then had to clean it up etc Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) then some initial touch ups, vents etc, and then it was grit blasted ( 250 aluminium oxide at 60 psi) Edited March 14, 2016 by Junctionmad Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) at this stage I made the stock dapole chassis and realised it looked " lost under " the body and also the etch didnt convey the veranda well anyway , dapol is cut up, widened, and 28mm pinpoints sourced, this of course leaves the brake gear even further away from the wheels , so a compromise was chosen . veranda supports in the etch look to spindly so thickened with plastikard etc ( added the two gas lockers inside as well !!) nickel silver wire as opposed to that supplied in the kit makes better handrails in my opinion, and more robust Edited March 14, 2016 by Junctionmad Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 shaping up again MM 071, you can see it now with the ballast hoppers........ Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 the plates are there Richie , really 1 Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 by next project will be a scratch built 8456 GSWR plough as modified by CIE. then I can have a rake of hoppers and a plough at each end Quote
Noel Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Hats of JM, that looks a real class job, especially for a first brass kit. Respect It looks the biz. If you have any pics of the hatchet job on the dapol chassis that would be great. Love the detailing. Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) Hats of JM, that looks a real class job, especially for a first brass kit. Respect It looks the biz. If you have any pics of the hatchet job on the dapol chassis that would be great. Love the detailing. a lady never shows her bottom in public ! really its just a new 40 thou card floor and the only thing original from the dapol is the two side frames in this regard, Glendora( sheesh sorry Glenderg ) was right , way to much is wrong with the dapol chassis, but these days unless you are prepared to spring or compensate the chassis , you cant get " old fashioned " , white metal W-iron combined with axles boxes and springs. even the buffer beam is wrong as CIE used channel iron headstocks rather then solid beams This means you can go down the etched and sprung W irons, but again , hacking them to fit 9' irish gauge widths, again means nothing fits out of the box. I have a whole assortment of bits for the next one ( which will be back in my plastikard comfort zone ) I have another dapol too , so may butcher it again or not Edited March 15, 2016 by Junctionmad Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 14, 2016 Author Posted March 14, 2016 (edited) for those of you not familiar with the Dingham couplers , here the pic, they are like miniature tension locks, but have the required delayed uncoupling action. The fit up on the buffer beam/headstock so look right ( if any 4mm coupler looks right ) fecking fiddly too, Edited March 14, 2016 by Junctionmad Quote
Glenderg Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Glendora is a new one on me! Might register the princess as that here! Ping me a pm, I have some goodies on the older CIE version that might assist. Quote
Noel Posted March 14, 2016 Posted March 14, 2016 Glendora is a new one on me! Might register the princess as that here! JM can't spell for nuts, add to that predictive misspelling on iPad there's no chance of a typo free post! Quote
Junctionmad Posted March 15, 2016 Author Posted March 15, 2016 Thanks. My airbrush technique improves , but still leaves a bit to be desired and high resolution photos never help anyways!! I learned a lot about etched brass as I went along ,as an electronics engineer I've good soldering kit but I found I got far better results once I switched to 148 degree solder and carrs liquid flux. Standard Roisin solder ( with lead ) is not really suitable Quote
Junctionmad Posted October 21, 2016 Author Posted October 21, 2016 I picked up two of these in Ikea, ( they are €22 each with the family discount ) very useful , as you can see plastikard sheets fit inside very handy for all sorts of stuff and a fraction of Bisleys price etc dave Quote
Broithe Posted October 21, 2016 Posted October 21, 2016 I picked up two of these in Ikea, ( they are €22 each with the family discount ) very useful , as you can see plastikard sheets fit inside [ATTACH=CONFIG]25604[/ATTACH] very handy for all sorts of stuff and a fraction of Bisleys price etc dave I'm a great fan of steel drawers, much easier to find stuff in than toolboxes. I once saw some at the boot sale and asked the woman how much she wanted - five pounds - bargain, but I decided to mull it over - ten minutes later, I went back for them and found that her husband had returned and was in earshot when I said "Here's a fiver, I'll have the drawers off you now". I took him a while to understand what was really going on.... The "flat" file drawers are even more useful - and they appear now and then as people computerise data. Quote
Jimbo325ci Posted October 21, 2016 Posted October 21, 2016 I picked up two of these in Ikea' date=' ( they are €22 each with the family discount ) very useful , as you can see plastikard sheets fit inside <img src="http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25604"/> very handy for all sorts of stuff and a fraction of Bisleys price etc dave[/quote'] have a pair of the exact same ones. Very handy to keep the place tidy Quote
Kirley Posted October 21, 2016 Posted October 21, 2016 shaping up again MM 071, you can see it now with the ballast hoppers........[ATTACH=CONFIG]23243[/ATTACH] Tidy job, well done Quote
David Holman Posted October 24, 2016 Posted October 24, 2016 Nice brake, while can also vouch for the Dinghams too. They work really well in 7mm scale and work effectively with both fixed and electro magnets. The only problem with them is that they are 'handed', so if you use a turntable, they are not viable, hence the need for three links on Arigna. Otherwise, unobtrusive, easy to fit and compatible with three links, so you can mix and match. Quote
Junctionmad Posted October 25, 2016 Author Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) Nice brake, while can also vouch for the Dinghams too. They work really well in 7mm scale and work effectively with both fixed and electro magnets. The only problem with them is that they are 'handed', so if you use a turntable, they are not viable, hence the need for three links on Arigna. Otherwise, unobtrusive, easy to fit and compatible with three links, so you can mix and match. Thanks , been tweaking the dinghams , I get too much slop in the hoops , Ive yet to see how they work on the drawbeams of bogie stock on curves , I'm not hopeful As for handiness I have found two hoops will go ride over one another and turntables can hence be handled , uncoupling however can be a problem . The juries still out . It's them or kadees Edited October 25, 2016 by Junctionmad Quote
David Holman Posted October 26, 2016 Posted October 26, 2016 Depends how tight your curves are J. In 7mm scale, 6' radius is the norm, though on the club layout my coaches go round a 5'6 circle without problems. On my previous exhibition layout, they only had to go back and forth, but there again, with Dinghams, you are still using the buffers when propelling, so whatever the scale this is the limiting factor. There is a nice 00 model in the current BRM using Kadees. They are mounted below the buffer beam, but forward if the buffers and seem pretty unobtrusive. Rare earth magnets seem to work better than the Kaydee planks too. For me, autocouplings work really well for just running round at a terminus. For actual shunting, am not sure. Shuffling back and forth over a magnet is hardly prototypical, nor completely reliable in my experience. That was way I found Dinghams a decent compromise - hands free for platform work, but still able to connect with three links when shunting the yard. I had Kaydees between coaches too! A case of finding what works and you are visually happy with, but always a compromise somewhere... Quote
Junctionmad Posted October 26, 2016 Author Posted October 26, 2016 Thanks for that advice. My fallback is Spratt & winkle couplings ! Then kadee Quote
Junctionmad Posted November 25, 2017 Author Posted November 25, 2017 (edited) being busy and not posting , but just finished converting some old Hornby stock to a CIE BSGV . ( 3177 - 3192 series ) happy with the roof detail. I did mill out the window frames to half their original thickness so the glazing would be closer to the outside, I do have the replica railways Mk1 window in fills , so still debating that Replica railways B5 bogies, Keen components LMS corridor connections , etc The original moulding " is of its time " but still I think it worked out ( the roof is only loosely on here ) , I created some new under frame detail , and recreated the vacuum cylinder , which is prominent on these designs bit of clean up etc still to do . The grill on this side has a error or too , but it actually adds to the realism as in practice the louvers get a bit battered in real life Now to screw it up trying to spray paint it !!!!! as usual, the chaos of my desk Edited November 25, 2017 by Junctionmad 2 Quote
Noel Posted November 25, 2017 Posted November 25, 2017 I saw this in the flesh yesterday and was mightily impressed. The roof detail was awesome. @Junctionmad's GSV 1 Quote
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