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Would you model in 21mm if RTR track and models were readily available?

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Would you model in 21mm if RTR track and models were readily available?  

113 members have voted

  1. 1. Would you model in 21mm if RTR track and models were readily available?

    • Absolutely yes!
      53
    • Maybe, if it was cost neutral?
      39
    • No way!
      21


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Posted
9 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

Same here.

When I look south over Cheshire and see steam rising, I'll know it's Rob's 3D printer trying to keep us all happy! What has he let himself in for? #PecoRob...

  • Agree 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Mol_PMB said:

When I look south over Cheshire and see steam rising, I'll know it's Rob's 3D printer trying to keep us all happy! What has he let himself in for? #PecoRob...

 

He might need a new printer after doing my batch.

 

1 hour ago, Rob R said:

Horsetan,

Pm sent.

Replied.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

What does a (scale) mile and a quarter of 21mm gauge track look like?

Still awaiting for one of the Beta testers to send me his postal address......

20250306_100924.thumb.jpg.6b48401c17f67e104ab9072b9f4f0a0a.jpg

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Posted
On 6/3/2025 at 7:45 PM, Rob R said:

What does a (scale) mile and a quarter of 21mm gauge track look like?

Still awaiting for one of the Beta testers to send me his postal address......

20250306_100924.thumb.jpg.6b48401c17f67e104ab9072b9f4f0a0a.jpg

That looks suspiciously like my lot.....

Posted

Your lot is in there somewhere.

I hope it lives up to your expectations.

The last 12 metres is being posted off to the sub tropics on Monday.

If anyone has any preferred specs for 21mm gauge 7mm scale (3ft) track please let me know.

Rail size (code 100/83/75), sleeper sizes and spacing.

Thanks in anticipation.

Rob

Posted
1 hour ago, Rob R said:

Your lot is in there somewhere.

I hope it lives up to your expectations....

Beats building it from scratch. Means only pointwork to worry about. 

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Mol_PMB said:

Mine has just arrived - looks really good! Many thanks @Rob R. I'll try it out later today.

So has my lot. Looks eminently useful; just add rail.

I suspect there might be some repeat orders as various people discover that what they have just isn't enough!

 

  • Like 1
Posted
33 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

So has my lot. Looks eminently useful; just add rail.

I suspect there might be some repeat orders as various people discover that what they have just isn't enough!

 

 

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Posted

Beta-testing comments...

Threading the rail through is very easy. At first I thought it was too easy and that the rail wouldn't be held securely enough, but once it's in it seems to stay put and there is good resistance to rail roll or gauge spread. So that's all good. The gauge is nominally 21mm or perhaps very slightly over - it might be closer to 21.2mm. Better to be wide than narrow, it will help rigid wheelbases on curves. Also good.

The top faces of the sleepers are slightly textured as a consequence of the manufacturing process, and there are some minor blemishes, but actually it looks pretty much like wood grain with the odd knot hole, and I think that once installed it will look much better than a perfectly smooth surface.

Again, a consequence of the manufacturing process is that there are very fine plastic 'hairs' sprouting from the moulding in places. As yet I haven't found a good way of getting rid of these - they are extremely fine. Any hints from the other beta-testers would be welcome!

Regardless of that last minor issue, this is a very quick way to produce 21mm gauge flexitrack. Bravo!

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Posted

 Pleased to hear that you are happy so far.

The slight overgauge is deliberate.

Flexitrack of any scale/gauge/brand will reduce in gauge when you curve it-nature of the beast. Not too much of an issue with normal OO wheel standards but anything finer will have issues with the reduced gauge as Paul Greene found with the 4ft radius curve on Broombridge.

Worst case scenario is the requirement for a gauge widened base just for the sharper corners

The knobbly bits and the stringing are still part of the work on progress. I tried to tweak the settings to improve things but that just threw out the rail fixings. I have just taken delivery of a different brand of filament which is supposed to be better. 

It has been suggested that a scrub with a toothbrish is the easiest way of removing the stringing. I would try it with the rails in situ to provide a bit of rigidity.

Have fun.

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