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David Holman

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Everything posted by David Holman

  1. Rather curly too... Enough said...?
  2. Sorry to disappoint, but no curries in our house - the tubs were bought new from a well know £ [euro?] chain. However, I do at least 50% of the cooking, so my guilt is not too bad on that front. Good to dream though! There is also a magnet on the fridge that says 'when I married Mr right, I didn't realise his middle name was 'always'. Any idea what that means?
  3. This is my second attempt this evening as got halfway through an upload and the system froze me out, saying I was not logged in. Annoying that, given I had to be to be doing it in the first place. Not the first time it has happened either. Anyway... The pictures show: My much loved Grasstech, without which I could not achieve many of the effects The large range of materials I use. I very much prefer to mix colours as textures as I go along, so we have various scatter colours [mainly fine or medium 'crumb'; fibres from 2-6mm in length and postiche, the artists hair which is teased out for extra foliage The sequence of layering ground cover: 1. Crumb onto PVA, then straight after, this is 'wetted' with further dilute PVA and fibres put on top 2. Leave overnight - you know it makes sense. Notice though, how even blended 'grass' appears quite plain until you add the weeds effect below. In earlier pictures further detail was added too - still to be done here. 3. Use either PVA smeared on with a finger, or more patches of spray lacquer to add fine crumb on top of the grass to make weeds 4. spray lacquer is used to fix postiche, which is then sprayed again and scatter lightly sprinkled on top 5. longer grass can be done the same way with the Grasstech 6. When adding flowers, always add the coloured crumb to green scatter first, for a more subtle effect. 7. ground texture is made from Woodlands fine ballast [again various colours] put through the coffee grinder and then sieved onto gloss paint. Talc, wood ash and fine grit useful too. The sequence of pictures were taken yesterday and today. I is very pleasing to see how quickly things can progress at this stage, though preparation and final detailing inevitably take much longer. System still messing about though and am not sure if this will appear in the right order. Hope it still makes sense!
  4. Worry not, Nelson - at least 50% of my modelling is done on a board, on my knees, in front of the tv. Best not to use enamel paints, solder, spray adhesives here though...
  5. Full marks for observation Broithe! Smoke alarm disconnected whenever I do soldering, though that was a while ago, so thanks for the reminder. Sadly the geography of the house means the stair well is between the workshop and the kitchen, meaning my wife has to walk round to deliver refreshments! Perhaps I could set up an intercom????
  6. Not so much workbench, as workshop. Thought you might be interested in seeing the space I work in. Used to be the integral garage, complete with up & over door etc. However, several years ago, realising that the car no longer fitted into its 15'9 x 7'9 space, converted it to my workshop, by fitting double glazed doors, adding direct access door from the house, lots more sockets and an extension to the central heating system. As you can see, the layout fills one side and my workbench and storage the others. Tidy it ain't! Equally, in my defence, the scenic work means lots of stuff out much of the time & am getting to the stage when will be glad this phase is over for a bit. will be adding a tutorial on elements of scenic work shortly.
  7. Though sort of retired, I still do a lot of consultancy work in schools and after a decent spell of quality modelling, spare time is suddenly at a premium again. Typical, when things were going rather well... However, as mentioned before, one can have too much of a good thing and driving around from one place to another can give a bit of thinking time. Also, while I can't speak for everyone else, one of the great attractions of this hobby is the variety it affords & must admit I'm starting to get a bit weary of scenic work, having done little else for the last few weeks. I'm also running out of materials! It is surprising how much fibre, crumb, glue, lacquer etc one gets through, so with no time to buy more, there is another reason why scenics will slow down over the next few weeks. However, in hoping to get the majority of the green stuff done soon, thoughts turn to what next? Certainly need another loco before the layout makes its debut, but am tempted by doing Railcar B first. At the very least will develop some plans and building notes - another technique I use for 'exorcising' ideas sometimes. Drawing layout plans is another, though not in the Iain Rice class [few are], must have drawn many times more than I could ever build & find this a good antidote to starting a new project, before the current one is finished. Why am I wittering on with this, when I could be modelling? Good question!
  8. Beautiful - especially for 4mm scale. Nice weathering too.
  9. Had the pleasure of helping Barry with Petherick many years ago at the Chatham show. He broke the mould with his 3' long, but 5' deep baseboards. They were seriously heavy though! Thankfully, he has refined his ideas since then. Though not exactly in with this thread, while I am here, will mention Trevor Nunn's S gauge East Lynn, which was also completely fabulous and a joy to operate. Worth reading any articles by him too, though in a different league to most mortals. Anyone who can put inside working Joy valve gear in a 4-4-0 deserves the accolade in my book anyway.
  10. Got my RM yesterday and very impressive their model is too. Would not look out of place in a museum.
  11. To the above I would definitely add the following: 1. Start small - a branch line terminus or small through station can easily be incorporated into a later, larger layout. 2. The above will certainly cost you less and with the limited amount of Irish stuff available RTR, you will have a better chance of getting something that looks and runs well in a reasonable length of time. 3. Minimum 90cm radius curves will always look better than set track, right angle bends 4. From a visual and operational point of view, trains need to be able to run 3 times their own length on the scenic part of the layout, to look 'right'. No worries with 20x10 then, but build accordingly. 5. Checkout the Modelling Irish Railways book, some interesting ideas in there 6. Why not consider 21mm gauge, or at the very least, EM gauge and finer profile track. For all the practicalities of 16.5mm, nothing sets an Irish layout better than broad gauge - though if you are heavily committed re stock, then appreciate the issues.
  12. At the risk of incurring the wrath of the purists - scale colour, indeed ANY colour, is a personal thing. Indeed, there is a less well known fact that blokes tend to lose the ability to match colour as they get older anyway, favouring the blue spectrum ahead of the yellow. Hence real implications for perception of shades of green. Women, on the other hand keep their colour perception into their dotage, which is another reason why they tend to dress better and moan at us when we don't! The moral of the story might be to seek help from the fair sex, particularly where green is concerned. At least there are only 40 shades. Grey, it seems is even more complex.
  13. Likewise a big fan of the Chagford fireman. He has the ability to make believe what he describes is achievable by everyone. Amusing too. His layout design books are some of my all time favourites - Finescale in Small Spaces and Light Railwsys especially. My own absolute essentials are: The Art of Weathering by Martyn Welch, essential for getting colour right and applicable to the whole layout, not just stock. Landscape Modelling by Barry Norman, the instigator of modern scenic techniques Both tree books by Gordon Gravett ,plus his new book on grass, roads and mud. Builds perfectly on the above and the best 25 quid you can spend this year. If you can get them, John Ahern's books on buildings and locos from the 1950s cover all the basics and are still very useful today, while Geoff Holts two books on loco building and David Jenkinson's one carriages make these challenging topics very achievable.
  14. One very impressive piece of work. Really interesting to see how it developed too! VERY well done.
  15. Thanks for the merging BosKonay, am guessing I stick to the same thread in future. A bit slow, but I get there in the end. Bit of a butterfly mind too... Re the grass, Barl, 'tis incredibly easy if you possess one of the wonderful static grass machines. Whether the cheap, tea strainer one [Freezinghall Models], or of the more expensive type, they are the poodles' privates for scenic work. Mine cost me £75, but has been worth every penny. Also use the Noch puffer bottles too, which are great for tight spaces. My local model club invested in one & is be loaned out. Nice idea if you don't want to splash out yourself.
  16. Thank you again for the kind words. No idea re the moderator thing, advice anyone? Must admit to being pleased with the pictures. Believe me I am not expert, though an eye for composition perhaps helps. I mainly use a fifty quid Nikon Coolpix, set on auto and lowest resolution for the website. Only adaptation comes from using the Microsoft Works 'crop' tool in the photo editing bit. The other thing is to mostly go for low angle shots, putting myself on the same plane as if looking at the real thing. This can really help hide stuff you do not want seen and improve overall perspective. Taking pics is also like doing a proof read of your modelling. Sometimes they show up stuff that really needs improving, other times you can get a nice surprise. Guess which ones I share! 25 years doing fine scale modelling, mainly in 7mm scale has helped me gain the skills I now use. However, there is so much fine stuff available commercially now That I really do feel it is well within anyone's ability to produce an effective layout. For me it I'd the scenics that can make all the difference and what I do is very much thanks to the writings of John Ahern, Barry Norman, Iain Rice, Martyn Welch, Tony Hill and Gordon Gravett. They have done all the hard work and then shared how they achieved it. Am wary of repeating what they do, but will try to put something on Workbench to show my interpretation of it
  17. I did my wagons from the drawings on our website, though still fret from time to time over how accurate the underframes are... However, well done with your efforts thus far, especially the brown van - built on commercial underframes I presume? In 4mm scale, others may correct me, but the Ratio wagon chassis was always a good starting point, especially if you change the wheels for something closer to scale [and better running]. Given that many of the so called Irish RTR wagons look to me like re-branded BR ones, a bit of scratchbuilding and kit bashing is the way to go if you want greater accuracy. One day perhaps, someone will write a book on Irish wagons, like the many which exist for English railways - preferably with lots of scale plans & clear photos. If so, I will be first in the queue to buy one!
  18. There's an interesting thought... If I remember rightly Z is 6.3mm gauge, so using N track [9mm] in Z scale would equate to around... too much, probably. Shame as am sure diesels in particular might be adaptable. At the other end of the scale have often consider 1:48 [American O gauge] as 32mm track would be very close to 5' 3" and EM track [18mm] spot on for 3' narrow gauge. Wheels then become an issue though. Like most things on the Irish scene, a degree of compromise and scrathbuilding is essential.
  19. The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed a change in the backscene on the middle board. I'm not quite sure what was wrong with it, but the view was certainly too flat, with not enough perspective to give the scene depth. The latter is a real issue with 7mm scale layouts, for if you stick to around 60-75cm baseboard depth, it leaves very little room for anything outside the railway fence. Hence a backscene of some sort is essential in my view. Backboards on Arigna Town are integral with the baseboards, so as I became more disgruntled with the middle view of the layout, realised something had to be done. In one of my occasional fits of enthusiasm out came the white emulsion and the whole lot was blocked out to start again. Not exactly easy with some scenery now in place, but a few days of neck and arm ache later, the new scene is in place. As before, most of the painting is with acrylics [cheap tubes sold in The Works], plus felt pens for some of the details. Hopefully the view looks more typical of the area being modelled & I made regular reference to my 1:50 000 map to do so. It will however necessitate a further change in that to have the Arigna mountain area behind the station, its orientation has had to be turned 180 degrees. Hence will have to re-draw the maps and indeed re-engineer the line to come from Dromahair, south through Drumkeeran and down the west side of Lough Allen. Before and after picture below:
  20. Have tried to follow my own advice in last week's blog by returning to the 'little and often' approach. The problem I have with scenic work is that the first application [on top of previously bare boards] seems to make such a difference, that I either then try and go on to do too much, or think it is ok and don't need to do any more. In the first case, it definitely helps to let paint, glue etc dry [seems obvious but have far too many of those t-shirts in the drawer], while for the second, a return visit, even an hour later soon shows how much still needs doing. When applying ground cover, you only have to look at nature to see how varied everything is. Hence my scenic work is built up in layers. The basic sequence is: - scatter foam on a bed of PVA glue, then wet with water/dilute PVA and apply a layer of static grass straight on top. - this is when it pays to wait for things to dry! - after out with the postiche/scenic matting and spray lacquer to add layers of weeds, brambles etc - alternatively, use the static grass for a second layer - additional detailing then comes by planting previously made nettles [horse hair dipped in crumb], dry grass etc These last few jobs can be done quite quickly and are very satisfying in terms of seeing things build up. Beware over doing though! Equally, a trim with the scissors can soon restore order. Hope you like these latest pictures. The 'end' board is now nearing completion, though every time I go back to it, the list seems to get longer - mainly in terms of stuff still needed for the garage. Am hoping a shopping trip to the Reading Trade Fair in December will help.
  21. While some way from being finished yet, I very much hope the layout will make its debut at the Chatham show, at Gilingham leisure centre in June next year. Assuming all goes well, will then be open to invites. Main tasks still to be done are 50% of scenics, a triple armed signal, display boards/fascia, plus another small tank and a few more wagons. Reading that makes me sometimes wonder if I am on schedule, but hey winter approaches which is very much the modelling season.
  22. Have always used car body filler. A bit smelly, but goes off fairly quickly and is easier to mix than Milliput. Sands and files well too.
  23. Wrong size, shame! Though am sure the majority will appreciate the 4mm. Think the bread containers will be on the back burner for now. Will cast some more GN vans and also do a couple of semis, plus a horse box. By then the fiddle yard will be full, so have to be choosy.
  24. Pierre is a fighter pilot. And French. One day, he takes his girl friend, Fifi on a picnic and after they have eaten, the settle down for a cuddle. Kiss me Pierre, she says. Pierre responds but first pours red wine on her mouth. Pierre! what are you doing? He replies - I am Pierre the fighter pilot, and when I kiss your lips, I must have the rich red wine to compliment them. Soon, Fifi's top comes off, but to her surprise, before kissing her bosom, he pours half a bottle of chardonnay over her. Pierre!! What are you doing? I am Pierre the fighter pilot and when I kiss the soft mounds of your bosom I must have this fine chardonnay to go with it. Things progress and Fifi huskily requests Pierre to 'kiss her down there' Pierre responds by pulling down her knickers, pouring brandy on her muff and setting fire to it PIERRE, what are you doing????? I am Pierre the fighter pilot and when I go down, I go down in flames! Easily expandable and best done in a suitable accent. Must be one of the best ever.
  25. Two thoughts: 1. why the feck would anyone EVER want to move from such a paradise 2 what on earth are they moving to - as it would have to be even better
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