murrayec

JM You mentioned a C3, I have a Clarke version, I upgraded it over the years to the same spec as an ArcEuro C3- its a deadly machine and love using it BUT;- if you can afford it go for something bigger, everything is very tight (close together) on these little machines, all the stuff gets in the way of your hands and using small drill bits is a nightmare as the saddle gets in the way of the tailstock! Go bigger, if I was doing it again I would.... Eoin

G oooohh! like sherbert, do you remember the stuff that came in the tube with a liquorish straw.... Eoin

Hi JM The mini bench grinder is for light work only- grinding screw lengths, cleaning up light sheet materials from metal kits and bar stock that one could not put near a proper bench grinder, plus my proper bench grinder takes up the whole bench.... Eoin

Hi David The Proxxon drills come in different flavours, it depends on which one you have and they are only light-work machines same with the Dremel. If you require something with umph one needs a high speed spindle drill but they come at a premium in the range of €400.00 up to €2,000.00.... I've just purchased a StepperCraft A3 CNC Machine Kit with HSS drill and other attachments- not telling how much it cost, but cant wait for the courier to come calling... Eoin

In Lidl today Nice set of small power tools for the workshop;- €24.99 for the belt sander €24.99 for the bench grinder and polisher €19.99 for the jigsaw The thing about big tools is when you bolt them down to the bench there is no bench left, these tools are ideal and could be left in position for handy use! Eoin

Hi DC Cellulose is a fantastic paint for all materials its why most car body shops used to use it- its probably the best and its cheep On the other hand its deadly to humans if it gets into the lungs- it sticks the little woolie bits together and suffocation comes on. This is why you don't see back lane car body shops any more- insurance companies and employers wont take the risk and to up-grade to the water system is to expensive for the back lane guys- what's the cost of a car oven!! Eoin

Lads! I feel another cartoon coming on.... Better refrain! Eoin

Weshty for you... Tony As far as I know cellulose paint is not used in the motor industry any more due to safety, they use a water based system now that requires an oven to set the paint hard- that's why they say the paint does not dry well if used without an oven! Go for the Humbrol option Eoin

David Excellent stuff there, has been a great help Eoin

Tony That paint you have there looks fine Many moons ago myself and a chap who drove JCB's used to service the bushings on the back-actor- I still have the drill bits and the reamers for doing the job! oh and I still have the pillar drill we used to use, at that time JCB sold the kits and one could buy paint from them for touch up?? Eoin

Hi There is a hand written date on the instructions- 7-4-1982 In my search I read that Hornby employed an outside company to build the models and Hornby added their name. I'd say they regretted in the end because a lot of people experienced trouble running them- steaming problems, gas container and seals perishing, and it was constructed 4mm to small of 3.5inch gauge! Not sure but I reckon the static model idea was to recoup... Eoin

Hi Tickets! sure Mum and Dad are holding the train up while junior makes a swing to catch the pantograph and he's off Clever devils, must be southside pandas Eoin

On the Stephenson's Rocket Model;- Nelson;- it would be great to see any photos you have, but its the inside bits I require if you ever took it apart and photographed it.... This is the idea I have on drilling out the steam chest and cylinders;- The first image shows the cylinder assembly from the instructions, note there are 4 holes shown along the centre line of the chest port face which are not drilled out on the kit, also a longitudinal steam way will be required to be drilled out also (I indicate this on my sketch of the side view with dotted lines) The second image is my sketch as to how I reckon the system needs to be modified, but not to sure! pity the instructions don't show the cylinder port face If these sketches mean anything to anyone I would be interested to hear what you think Thanks Eoin

Wrennie Could cause other problems though!.....

Hi All Don't forget the Bray Show 'Toys of Yesterday' is on this Sunday, second last show before Christmas and the New Year- time to pick out your presents!! See you there Eoin

Borithe you beat me to the photo of a early hi-tech phone/camera! The tame geek site is deadly;- ''How To Solve This Problem You can prevent any rotation issues in the future by taking your iPhone photos and videos with the volume buttons pointing down. However, it’s not as convenient as holding your iPhone with the volume buttons pointing up, especially if you use those buttons to take photos. That’s why I almost always prefer to keep the volume buttons up and deal with possible problems later.'' I can say this easier- 'JHB you are holding the camera upside down' Eoin

Hi Noel A video here; http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/4121-Class-C-ECMCHAS-For-Silver-Fox-Kit?p=79227&viewfull=1#post79227 also slow running vid at start of the above thread Eoin

Hi Noel, this one is for you I had taken this video and others some time back with fast, slow, stop/start running- but somehow this is the only one I can find. If I locate the others I will post up, otherwise I will shoot it again the next time the test track is up. Long curve points, short points, and double scissors at speed!! - all the points have the ECM check-rail mod. The little beast will be at Bray Show on Sunday??.... Eoin

Hi All I picked up a Hornby Rocket Static Model kit last week at the Stillorgan Show, I plan to Live Steam it and have trawled the internet for photos and info- found loads but some things I cannot find;- If anyone can help it would be much appreciated 1. A copy of the Live Steam instructions. 2. Has anyone taken photos of the cylinder steam ports- the static model does not have these drilled out, I have worked out the approx set-up but it would be nice to know I'm on the right track. This may also be indicated in the instructions? 3. Has anyone got photos of the piston parts- these parts are not included in the static kit! The kit; The offending cylinders with no ports; Thanks if you can help Eoin

Hi David All looks fabulous We are allowed to take breaks, it actually helps in a way because the projects are always in mind and with a break a better solution to a works detail is inspirational, setting us off again..... Eoin

Hi All Thanks for looking in.... It is easy and gets easier as one gains more experience of the techniques to make it work! On the other hand its the time it takes, take the DART chassis parts in photo above;- There is 38 parts to make up a two car chassis, that's a total of 684 parts for 18 sets being worked on, I work on one mould at a time and there is 5 moulds to make parts for one set, it takes approx 45mins to mix, pour, dry, and clean up each mould = 3.7hours per set = 68 hours for 18 sets. And then all parts have to be hand processed, clean-up, jigged and glued...... Oh hell I cant think about it any more! Eoin

.....and DART coloured plastic parts production line;- This is part of a replacement batch of plastic parts for the DARTs, I got caught out on the shelf life of the chemicals! I made the original batch about 6 months ago and stored it until required, when I went to use it a few months later it had gone all funny and discoloured! Eoin

Hi Here is the update I promised in the first post;- I now prefer this material 'Fast Cast' from RPM, it lasts a little longer after mixing and its not as unforgiving as the other stuff if one gets the mix slightly wrong. In the first photo one can see the OXO measuring cups, two sets are required. Very handy for getting the correct quantities A & B in the mix. Though keep the acetone away from them- I did not and look at the state of the little cups!! it will melt in seconds. Tips;- Watch out for shelf life of the chemicals- use all at least 6 months after purchase, anything older will cause endless difficulty!! Use the old stuff for goofing.... If using colours- mix the colour into part A first, then add part B and mix thoroughly- thoroughly is very important, otherwise one can get oily residue in areas on the casting. Doing it this way gives more time to work after A&B has been mixed. One will have to play with the pouring the plastic into the mould to get it right- some work straight off but others do not, test it and see does air get trapped!, try different ways of pouring it in!, inject it!, squeeze it! stretch it! or use a blunt pin to wipe over the mould in the plastic to tease the bubble to the surface and lift it out. Keep notes on the mould storage bag as to how the mould works for later reference. The silicone moulds will degrade over use, small little bits of silicone get pulled away from areas- mainly where the silicone can flow into the glue joints of the master, paint priming the master can assist in filling these areas, which will help to minimise degrading. A complex mould will take about 30 to 40 goes, and then one has to make a new one- keep the masters!! Quick Moulds for Small Parts;- For this I use two part Moulding Paste and Supersil 20;- Mix two blobs of the stuff and lay it out as the base of the mould, push the master part into it half way and make indent register marks in it (to line up the two half's of the mould), when dry then set up moulding walls around it with styrene card and pour the Supersil 20 to make the second side, use release agent otherwise the mould will not open! When using this mould, one drops a blob, more than needed, of the mixed plastic onto the base of the mould (blue part) and then the topside is laid on top by kind of rolling it on from one side to the other- hopefully pushing the air out as one goes and squishing the excess plastic out. When the topside is down put a small weight on top and wait till set- a piece of 4mm MDF larger than the mould. Eoin

Hi again Take a look at the footbridges I made for the Greystones layout and the Seapoint Martello Tower layout, the side rails of the bridge are cut from .5mm styrene, and all cardboard templates to cut the foam steps and other bits, were cut out on the Cameo. Eoin