murrayec

Lung Problems. In the early days of MDF it had some pretty nasty glue in the mix- lung cancer was the result if dust extraction and lung protection was not used. We're talking in the early 80's now, the manufactures realised this and quickly revised the product back then- but the myth still prevails today. MDF is no more dangerous than any other building product- cement, bitumen, paint, insulation, plastic, glue, etc. Especially when these products are used in home workshops where there is no inspectorate, due care and caution is required by the user- that includes a lung protection mask or extract system. Lidl do a hover that works as a dust extractor, it even has a power socket for the tool your using to switch the unit when the tool is powered on, its basic but I recommend all home workshops are equipped with one. Last time I saw it I think it was for around €60.00 Waterproof. MDF comes in different grades, the standard grade- which is the common one, is not waterproof. Its surface will repel water for a few seconds but after that it will mess up, and if left for long period it has a disastrous affect. There are MDF sealer products, paints, and varnish which will render it waterproof. MDF does come in a waterproof grade but it is rather expensive. Materials Used. I use a lot of different types of materials in the workshop, I'm a sound believer in recycling and use everything I get my hands on, so its quite varied and some if not all are hazardous- information is the key to safety, know what your using and protect against it. Its that simple This is a good argument for using someone like Baseboard Dave to do the work, he is set up for exactly this purpose. You will pay a bit more than you would doing it yourself but I reckon its better and get it right first time- sure look at the pictures above and see, most of us cannot provide that quality.... Eoin

Hi All Thanks for the great comments... and here it is finished, sporting one of BK's DARTs Eoin

Hi David Nice locos One of the most enjoyable jobs in this hobby- taking a broken train and restoring it to working order, that's the best Eoin

Hi 3 day show in Blackrock Co Dublin I think is in October- I'm sure someone will confirm the date It's on the bank holiday weekend Eoin

Hi Jawfin McDonnell was responsible for bringing in the 101/J15 design by Beyer Peacock around 1860, so maybe around then? Aspinall, Ivatt & Coey carried on production and modification after McDonnell left in 1882 Don't know if that helps or confuses further Eoin

Hi WRENNIE .....if your thinking of the high current all is cool, if not- the mind boggles... Eoin

Hi There is a few old photos intermixed on this;- https://www.google.ie/search?q=bray+railway+station&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=hIo_VYTYKYPV7Qby24CgCA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=891#imgrc=_ Eoin

Hey B Is there not a trade-in value? surly 'she' could be worth a few 141's or so... Eoin

Hi B I have a friend that bought a Ford Mustang a few years ago, secretly he brought it back to the house to surprise the family, when asked by the misis how much he paid for it- he replied on the basis of when he asked her how much she spent on her hair each week- the answer was €150.00! Eoin

Hi DC I have posted up the set-up in 'Tips & Tricks' ;- http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/4586-Hot-Wire-Foam-Cutting-By-murrayec?p=69591&viewfull=1#post69591 Eoin

Hi Here are the photos of my home spun Hot Wire Foam Cutter;- The table was based on the size of the Proxxon one, great for small stuff but not for big sheet. After making and using this I recommend a table of at least 3 times the size if you have the space, and at least 400mm high- that is the length of the cutting wire. The fence guide is shown;- 30mm aluminium angle fence clipped to the board edges. The table is marked out with lines at 10mm ctrs to aid squaring the fence to the table if required. The arm is 19mm aluminium rod with ms fixings, the upper hot wire connection to the arm can be moved back to set the wire at an angle to the table- this arm allows a max angle of 30deg. A sliding fence is shown;- for trimming foam lengths square to the left edge of the board. Its two aluminium angles stuck to a 45deg set-square, one faces down to catch the edge of the table, the other facing up to push the foam into the wire. I also use an adjustable set-square to set different angles for cutting. Note- you need some form of adjustment on the arm so that you can square up the cutting wire perpendicular to the table and perpendicular/parallel to the left edge face of the board. I always use the left edge as my datum to keep things square. The last photo is of the controller;- it's a two stage heavy 6v transformer, it works 6v and 12v. The twelve volt is achieved by connecting the two stages together giving 12v at high current- that's controlled by the toggle switch.* The stat varies the voltage in both 6v and 12v modes, its just a standard household light dimmer switch. 12v at high current is used with the thicker hot wire material, it's about .8mm and holds the shape its bent into, even when glowing RED!. I tried to run the system with the 12v workbench power supply under my controller in the photo- it was fine with the thin wire but it could not heat the .8mm wire at all and began to make a loud hum! So I built my own. When cutting irregular shapes I print out the part from the drawings on heavy paper, cut it out and then pin it down on the foam and use the edge of this template to cut out the foam shape. It takes a bit of practice to cut the foam like this, trying to rotate the foam on the table, move it by the wire at a constant rate and keep to the edge of the paper template- practice makes perfect.

Hi I just subscribed- been meaning to do this for a while and you reminded me! Eoin

Hi I picked up a fabulous diorama for the N DART at the Bray Show yesterday, done by the expert miniature dioramaist!- Kinvara-Train- just look at the reflection of the DART in the water- amazing Eoin

Hi Here is a small update on Closetmodeller's Greystones Layout, work has been progressing slowly but we are having fun;- Track is finally down with the ballast now to be completed Blue sky painted in and everything under-coated Closetmodeller cut and mounted the preliminary drawing of the station building to get an idea Finally Closetmodeller's vintage steam loco! Eoin

Hi kevrail has hit on it! work on what we want and when we feel like it I'm afraid to make a list it would have to go back about 20 years or more! Eoin

Hi Just gets better and better When looking at the photos I keep expecting to see the figures move! Eoin

heirflick See the link on this page http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/4533-Silverfox-D-Class-Shunter?p=68518&viewfull=1#post68518 Eoin

Hi I should have said with my post above;- I love Silver Fox models, sure they are making models of Irish, and close to Irish that nobody else is doing. I have two Class C & A SF kits I'm currently working on chassis for- this appears in another thread on the forum. I'm also making C & A chassis for other peoples SF kits Silver Fox rock for me Eoin

Hi Weshty It's an internal recess for the hand break handle- the break shaft runs up tight to the back wall of the cab with a single arm handle on top, when rotating it one would bash into the cab back wall so the clever design department came up with this excellent solution!! Eoin

Hi Ah! the old Class 08- when I was 9 or 10! I had a fleet of them painted Valspar orange bought in Wigadors!- memories... Though this tread reminded me that I'm working on a D, not touched for a year or so and still at prototyping stage, I grabbed the box down and took a few shots;- Mine is going to be green Eoin

Hi All We had the Modular Seapoint Layout at the Wexford Show last weekend and Dave took a few shots of the work in progress;- Dart cantenary spars have been installed. Viewing area handrail installed. Upper section of the footbridge installed. More detail to the cannon added. Eoin