Finally got my electrics sorted out. I used Weshty’s red LED’s but sourced similar size white ones from Express Models. I threaded the LED’s through the marker light holes with a dab of Evo-stick glue to hold the LED in place. I covered the wires with Gaffer tape round to the centre of the body. I stuck a bank of resistors to a piece of card and then to the roof. I used two micro connectors and leads so I can detach the body from the chassis without having to unsolder wires.
I finished the model in black livery and had an attempt at weathering it.
The windows were from a piece of Perspex I had and were all cut for each individual window.
The roof is by courtesy of Glenderg.
Glad to say it’s finished with the exception of the new grills, it’s been a long haul.
Hope to get a video up within the next few days.
David would you consider Maynar’s suggestion of designing your model using a Bachmann Class 3F 0-6-0 chassis? This model is currently on sale at Hattons for £71.23.
Thanks Mike for launching this idea.
Thanks Guys for all your imputes, I was never really clear on which side the resistor went.
I picked up on MRHD’s comment as the most informative:
The key phrase here is polarity is important. I have connected all the red LED’s via the short leg to the resistors which would explain no red LED’s working.
There’s nothing for it but to unsolder all the red LED’s connections and reconnect to the long leg/wire.
O happy days..........
Good to see more of Ballykay, it’s a bit of a game to work out what you have put where and a visit on site will have to be carried out. Liked all the little touches you highlighted in your video. Is the Jeep, No. 5 a new addition?
I’ve just finished wiring my Sulzer and on testing only the white LED’s (supplied by Express Models) worked. The Red LED’s from Des had one wire shorter than the other and he advised connecting the resistor to the short wire but none of them worked.
When I had wired LED’s before I always connected the resistor to its long leg and they worked. A quick trawl of the Web suggested “we find the LONG LEG of the LED which is POSITIVE and attach the proper resistor to it. Connect the ground to the SHORT NEGATIVE lead.”
Before I disconnect all the red LED wires and investigate further can anyone confirm it is always the “long leg/wire” that is connected to the resistor or does it differ from LED’s to LED’s or does it matter?
Any advice would be welcomed.
Try the Irish Railways group on the RM web site, Colm Flanagan is an NCC expert and you can see some of his work displayed there.
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/forum/183-irish-railways-group/
There not much RTR NCC but Worsley Works provide coach sides to help build coaches.
NORTHERN COUNTIES COMMITTEE
Corridor Coaches
A5 Chairman's Saloon Flush 60'
J10 Corridor Third Panelled 60'
F2 Corridor Composite Panelled 57'
G1 Corridor Composite Tea Car Panelled 57'
Non-Corridor Coaches
H2 Tri Composite Flush 57'
J7 Third Flush 60'
K2 Third Class Brake Flush 57'
North Atlantic Express
K3 Brake Third Panelled 57'
J8 Third Panelled 57'
H3 Tri Composite Panelled 57'
B4 Buffet Panelled 60'
http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_Irish_Standard_Gauge.htm
Added all the brass and white metal bits and gave a primer coat.
The hole above the horn grill has been filled, never spotted it until I looked at the photographs.
Colour coats next.