Glenderg

Red is always on the Right - easy way to remember it.

RAL 1003 = Humbrol Enamel 154 RAL 1004 = Humbrol Enamel 69

If it's standard enamel paint, it will work fine on plastic. If it's cellulose paint (really potent chemical smell) DO NOT TOUCH it!

Victoria Quay gents, even JB should know where that is! Clare, indeed..

Proof required

Why? Life's too damn short, Dave.

You were on Ilovelimerick.ie, that's enough for me

As far as I know the Sambre and Meuse Y33 bogie kit has been available from SSM for a while. I can't find it, but ping Weshty an email an he'll see you right.

The two 141's are NOT black and tan either. They are black and mk3 tippex orange.

"Judge James Faughnan adjourned the case and told both men to pay compensation and volunteer for clean-up work with Irish Rail." I'm sure the good folk at Irish Rail will ensure these boyos do a bit of sweating.

What?! If a person is a guest, they are not logged in. Just shows registered users and the number of guests (google bots, chinese hackers etc.)

Top top stuff.

dzsullivan@eircom.net

A GSR like amalgamation would have taken place in 1948 with BR, but that's as far as the fantasy goes. I'd imagine we'd have had mk3 sleeper coaches running cork to belfast. And they would be miserable.

Is that shop still open? Used to work on a site across the road in the mad times. Dodgy brilliant boozer :-) Broithe, I think it means "Rod of Iron, Air my Washing" but you'd have to ask JB to be sure.

Ha ha! fair point, I'll get me coat.

I know it's the Enterprise, but did they really have to take the reference so seriously

Well it seems that somewhat of a decision has been made then! Thin perspex can be used to cut out window frames to a width of about 0.35mm, as well as slates, decorative barge boards, doors etc. And having had a quick look at this vid, the cameo might just be right for you. Mine requires manual calibration of the registration marks, this is automatic.

There are two questions here really Dave. First is about equipment, the second is about process. I'd recommend the Silver Bullet 13" model, but it's outside your budget at £654.99. I really don't remember anything about the other models, save that I spent about 6 weeks researching in serious detail what was possible and what wasn't. Just reviewing a few videos quickly, the cameo has only 2 this light plastic rollers which keep the media in place while the platen moves back and forward. Mine has 4 large rubber ones which will grab smaller pieces of plastic. I have a feeling if you put plastic or card onto the platen that's not slathered with Spray Mount, the media might slip. Now I'm looking at the RMweb thread in some detail, I'd be concerned that the corners are rounding on windows and so on. Mine can correct for what's known as blade offset and overcut. Either there is no option with that machine/software or he doesn't know how to tweak it to the best setting. If you see photos on any of those threads, zoom all the way in, much of the finesse promised isn't actually produced. Inkscape and Corel are fine to have to actually drive the cutter, but you'll need some type of vector software to produce the drawing (AutoCAD etc.) which then has to be exported as .pdf (which retains the vector data, rather than converting it to raster) and then you need to import it to the cutting software. If you produce your artwork like below, you will have to produce outlines on top, to tell the cutting blade where to cut it. When you print off the piece of artwork to be cut, you'll have to place it into the platen, then tell the cutter where the registration marks are so it knows where your design is in relation to the data on screen. This calibration has to take place for every sheet of artwork, and is a PIA. I do all my cutting by hand, still. Anyway, read as much as you can on the likes of Amazon, RMweb, about all the cutters, get it to a shortlist and then come back here. http://die-cutting-machines-review.toptenreviews.com/silhouette-cameo-review.html A quick google tells me the Cricut is a bug ridden piece of rubbish. Tri-ang level. Never heard of Zing. TL;DR - If you can produce the artwork of brick buildings, print it and cut it by hand. R.

The cutting plate is about the size of an A5, (8.5" x 6") so if you like signal boxes, go for it, cos there's little else you're going to cut with it. I use mine (not Silhouette) which was has an A3 platen to cut patterns onto which you put the finish. The software is really really poor for any of these cutters so if you are to take a finished design, put on the platen for cutting, it involves calibrating the machine every time, and I've yet had it cut any Design & Cut job to a standard I'd be happy with. This won't do a Metcalfe job for you. It doesn't etch metal either, that's a chemical process. It embosses and engraves on thin foil, slightly thinner than curry tray foil. I'd encourage you to have a look at some youtube clips of these machines in action before you even consider a purchase. The Silhouette cutters would be at the Hornby Railroad imho. R

Get out your inter cert compass, and make a point with it. If using brass, add hammer.

My intention is to get it scanned in the Crown Shop in Fairview, get a sample made up, and even though it's decorating paint, put it on a donor MK3 and see how it looks. I know that their scanner has a lower resolution than the one in Baldoyle, so if the Fairview sample/scan doesn't work, I'll go further to Baldoyle to nail down the code. I'll also try and make up a sample to match from known acrylic shades with an eye dropper and keep a log of the mix. The sample comes from a part of the coach beneath the pneumatic door opening rod, so was covered in gunk, but is in remarkably good condition, and shows no sign of fading or sun bleaching. I got other smaller samples and there is no colour variation across the range. R.

Closest match on a colour chart.

I have tried to colour match the sample to a Crown NCS colour chart, S 1080-Y50R, being the closest, and converting it to RGB and then RAL, comes out at RAL 2008. I'll try and get up to Baldoyle to get it scanned and a tester pot to see how it replicates. The supertrain colour underneath is just a much darker/browner version incidentally. R.

Sorry about the quality, but on the left is a MM IR 183 with the factory weathering taken off with some wire wool. On the right is MM IE 184. Straddling in the middle is a sample of a MKIII paint from the North Wall. It comprises a some bauxite, grey primer, a white surface coat, super train, three more white coats and finally the top coat you see here. While the IR is closest to the real thing, its a bit dark, and needs to be lighter and with a bit more yellow to match. HTH R.