Paul 34F Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Hello David, I feel your pain. I watched a video recording from the Portsmouth show and it looks like several layouts had similar issues at baseboard joints. It just makes you appreciate how much wood moves depending on the conditions. Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holman Posted May 24 Author Share Posted May 24 Finally got the new fiddle yard hooked up to NPQ today, enabling trains to be run for the first time in months! Just as well really, because the layout's next outing is the Chatham Show, at the end of July, which isn't that far away now. The main work was wiring in all the bolts - two wires from each one to the adjacent rails, meaning only one track is ever live. Power to the track comes from two wires from the layout, which each have a crocodile clip on them. These go on a screw each side of the short bridging track & a single wire from each screw goes to the rails, with another from the rails to each bolt. Safety next, with the hinged aluminium strip buffers at each end of the train table. Small blocks of plywood mean the buffers will clear the Alex Jackson couplings when lowered. The main frame of the fiddle yard was flexing a bit, so I cut some strips of 12mm ply and fitted these as diagonals between the intermediate frame pieces, which nicely triangulates things and adds some all important rigidity. Also replaced the oversized bolts, which ensure the table remains parallel to the frame when being slid from side to side. After that, it was time to put trains on the table and do a few test runs. Happily, all seems well, though care is of course needed when turning the table, once everything has been out & back - but then it was the same with the previous model. Some priming and painting now required, so everything matches the layout boards, plus I really must work out where to fit the all important coffee/tea cup holder. 11 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tullygrainey Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 38 minutes ago, David Holman said: plus I really must work out where to fit the all important coffee/tea cup holder. As far away from the controller as possible 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonW Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 Looks good. I did make something like that for a layout but it turned out to be very heavy to transport and in order to be able to turn it restricted the length. So I have gone back to cassettes this time. These are 1m long but if away from the modelling room I could use longer ones say 1.2m. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holman Posted June 19 Author Share Posted June 19 Yep, hence the rebuild, Don. Have used cassettes extensively in the past and found they work best when there was a separate loco cassette so the actual train only needed sliding from side to side, with just the loco lifted and moved to the other end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holman Posted June 24 Author Share Posted June 24 With the next outing at the Chatham Show less than a month away, attention has turned to getting the layout ready. Managed to find some Code 83 rail down at the club, so the track table in the fiddle yard is now dual gauge throughout. Decided to paint the whole lot in white emulsion, in the hope that any loose bits and pieces would easily show up and perhaps also make putting stock on easier. We'll see. A mundane, but important bit of kit for any exhibition layout is a shelf for the drinks mug. However, with a front operated layout, this limits the options. I already have one simple shelf which can go on the far end of the layout, easily added via quick mount plates. After much thought, realised I could add one for the operator by putting it inside the fiddle yard frames. Ok, the train table needs to be slid over a little to allow access, but figure that doing it this way, keeps drinks out of the way. Finally found a use for my Dremel saw, which works fine with plywood, but is hopeless with what I bought it for, namely cutting thin brass and nickel silver. The saw itself is ok, but the blades supplied are useless and break far too easily. Anyway, managed to cut up some pieces of 6mm ply and then cut a hole for a coffee mug. All a bit rough and ready, but hopefully the Chatham Show will prove how well it works. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northroader Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Alright until you get a 4’ 8.5” mug in a 5’ 3” hole. 1 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broadstone Posted July 25 Share Posted July 25 I don't know how I managed to miss the development of this stunning new layout of yours David, but having just read through the whole thread, I'm very glad that I have caught up; it's another beauty, well done! Not only is your modelling brilliant, the design and the learning and your honesty about what doesn't always work first time is refreshingly honest and very inspiring. I was put onto this layout by a friend Richard who attended the recent Chatham show, sent me some pictures and declared it the best layout there. From the pictures he sent and those on this thread I am highly impressed. You have squeezed a lot in but it looks so spacious - that backscene is a work of art in itself and gives the layout such depth. And the detail and the cameos are marvellous. I considered using Alex Jacksons on Broomebridge Junction but am once again using 3 links with all their limitations. But, having myself some of Richard Chown's 7mm wagons note that he used them, but very much in the old pre=magnetic way where a ramp pushed them up to uncouple. They worked for him though and clearly do for you; they are probably the most unobtrusive of the auto-coupling systems. Thanks again David, another brilliant layout! Paul 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holman Posted July 26 Author Share Posted July 26 Many thanks Paul. Am getting there with the AJs - for me, the issue is not the geometry of the hooks (the dimensions and angles don't need to be absolutely precise), however the height of the coupling hook does need to be consistent, as well as being level and straight. Even being slightly out of alignment causes problems, so stock boxes that protect the hooks are crucial. I think AJs are easier to work with in 7mm scale, because you can use a central mounting point, instead two at opposite ends.The Hope your new project is going well. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 84C Posted July 26 Share Posted July 26 I saw your comments David about using cassettes. Which is what I made for Bantry but the operating gang do not like them. I get a bit nervous when they are waved about 12" above the baseboard with stock on them! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holman Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 They can be a bit scary, Mike. I eventually got round it by having separate loco and train cassettes. The loco ones, being short, are easy to pick up and move to the other end. The longer train cassettes then only need sliding around, or lifting within the confines of the train table. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.