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John-r
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Hi all, just new I wouldn't get it right first time,anyhow new to uploading photos so thank you to boskonay

For explaining it.next thing never built a brass kit or used superglue to do so hope it looks okay,

I would appreciate any comments or feedback either way on the model. Also could I ask what type oo couplings

Would suit and any help on the painting process would be fantastic , thanks in advance everyone.

John

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I just used Hornby couplings, bent over the coupling support at the 'hole', removing the coupling from the pocket and inserted through the hole and used epoxy resin to glue it in place. Hopefully the pictures make more sense.

 

IMG_2481.JPG

 

IMG_2486.JPG

 

I painted the bogies, wagon and body separate. Hope this is of some use.

 

Your effort looks very good, good luck on finishing it.

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Hi Kirley

Thank you for the kind comments, your photos are more than helpful. Could I ask what types of paint you

Used were they over the counter or made up paints.thanks again. John.

 

Marks Models did MIR paints for the Tankers and Barrier Wagons, WF7 for the Barrier Wagons and WF8 for the Tankers.

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That is a good looking build, very clean and tidy. An etch-primer is a very good idea but try to keep it off any resin parts as I am not sure about a chemical reaction.

 

Phoenix suggest that it should be OK on resin - http://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/about-us/hints-tips/etch-primers.html - perhaps even a good idea - but a test piece might be worth doing..

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Quite a beast, John - very impressive.

Re painting, I've always used car body spray primer from Halfords. Not sure if you have them over the water, but am guessing there will be something similar. Grey primer is also what I use for unfitted wagons and bauxite colour for fitted ones. Before painting, always give the model a good wash. Some folk suggest a proprietary stainless steel sink cream cleaner, though washing up liquid works just as well. Important to get any flux off, plus finger marks and even grease on the resin castings. Set aside to dry [or use a hair drier if in a hurry] & double check there are no droplets of water hidden anywhere.

When spraying, I do have a proper spray booth, but for short jobs am happy using a bit of wire to hang the model from & them spray it outside in the garden. Hang from a shelf to dry after. Several light coats will avoiding over spray, with resultant running/sagging of paint. If you do get any blemishes, leave overnight to dry and treat with T-cut or similar.

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Quite a beast, John - very impressive.

Re painting, I've always used car body spray primer from Halfords. Not sure if you have them over the water, but am guessing there will be something similar. Grey primer is also what I use for unfitted wagons and bauxite colour for fitted ones. Before painting, always give the model a good wash. Some folk suggest a proprietary stainless steel sink cream cleaner, though washing up liquid works just as well. Important to get any flux off, plus finger marks and even grease on the resin castings. Set aside to dry [or use a hair drier if in a hurry] & double check there are no droplets of water hidden anywhere.

When spraying, I do have a proper spray booth, but for short jobs am happy using a bit of wire to hang the model from & them spray it outside in the garden. Hang from a shelf to dry after. Several light coats will avoiding over spray, with resultant running/sagging of paint. If you do get any blemishes, leave overnight to dry and treat with T-cut or similar.

 

 

 

 

David, Thank you for breaking the painting process down into something easy to understand,

Much appreciated , Mike 84c & enniscorthyman thank you for the positive feedback.

If I could ask about applying the decals, is it just the same as applying to the airfix

Kits of long ago ? Lastly I have read about applying a finish coat of varnish? Is this

Recommend or needed and which type should I go for

Thank you all once again for taking the time to reply it has been a big help.

 

John

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