Omagh GNRi station

[Noel]

Noel, I am assuming that the picture (TOP) is the real thing and the one below the model. The grass looks like it really is growing. What is the ballast type you're using - looks great!

 

Hi Tony. Apologies I missed this question last week. Top picture used:

 

Ballast = Javis Granite Chippings (extra fine) REF JXG7 7lb

Static Grass = Heki Nr 3360 Sommerwiese 100g (ie Summer Meadow)

 

Bottom picture was Woodland scenics medium buff ballast. Both top and bottom were lightly airbrushed once with Railmatch acrylic sleeper grime diluted 50/50% with acrylic thinners. The airbrush made one pass for each rail side, one for the sleepers between the rails, and one for each ballast shoulder.

 

As a young boy I walked home from school along the railway, it had just closed and I remember clearly picking my way along the paths created by railway employees and permanent way men. The granite chips were grey though I do recall a brown rusty deposit on them. I think Noel has been able to replicate this well on his samples by spraying along the sleeper ends over the ballast.

 

As for track painting - I found that it took two coats to really kill the shine of the Peco rails. I also think that rusted rail and pretty heavy in colour and therefore may even take a third coat of slightly deluted Rail Match sleeper grime.

 

Did you use a paint brush or airbrush for the rail sides?

[GNRi1959]

Noel, I brush painted the rails, two coats with a small artists brush. When dry, I touched up any parts I missed. I must admit I thought it looked better as it got darker.

I'm now planning on using a fine grey granite ballast to finish. I've no idea how much it is going to take.

[GNRi1959]

Finished painting the rail sides today and tomorrow in better light will run down the top of the rails with a little emery paper. Is it ok to ballast next? The track looks great, looking forward to seeing the detailing come together. Is it ok to cut away the small manual 'finger tip' tie bar extensions on the Peco points? They look ghastly! I got Woodland Scenics fine grey ballast. I was surprised to see how fine it actually was. Is this ok?

Edited April 6, 2017 by TonyMcGartland

[Mike 84C]

Tony, try to avoid using abrasives to clean the track. A solvent would be better as it does not mark the railheads. Cut away those little finger tips, just be careful!

[Noel]

Tony, try to avoid using abrasives to clean the track. A solvent would be better as it does not mark the railheads. Cut away those little finger tips, just be careful!

 

+1

 

Don't scratch the rails with rough materials because the abrasions will collect track dirt ever after

Edited April 7, 2017 by Noel
typo

[GNRi1959]

Noel and Mike, glad you said no to use the emery paper, was a very fine grade. I started doing a little last night but will finish with a solvent and cloth today. The Woodland Scenics grey ballast looks really awful, I've bought one of those shakers full and to be honest I feel its so grey! Here's a small sample, laid but not glued.whats your opinion?

 

Edited April 7, 2017 by TonyMcGartland

[jhb171achill]

It's the colour of new ballast, Tony, which I suspect would not have been in abundance in Omagh goods yard within your period!

 

I would mix with other types perhaps, and weather it when all put in place.

 

Oil and coal dust, general wear and tear, and (within the yard) a good degree of a trampling effect, i.e. not crisp and pristine, flattened down a lot, would be evident too. Add a few small weeds at the ends of the sidings and in corners and there ye go!

[Noel]

Noel and Mike, glad you said no to use the emery paper, was a very fine grade. I started doing a little last night but will finish with a solvent and cloth today. The Woodland Scenics grey ballast looks really awful, I've bought one of those shakers full and to be honest I feel its so grey! Here's a small sample, laid but not glued.whats your opinion?

 

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Hi Tony

 

It should look a lot better when its weathered in.

 

In the sample below I used Woodland scenics 'buff' coloured 'medium' ballast which looked hideous straight out of the container, but after it had been weathered with a single spray of 'sleeper' grime, which btw painted the rails sides, sleepers and ballast in one go, it looked a lot better (see below). The 'buff' like the 'grey' is very bright straight out of the container and contrasts too much with the plastic sleepers, but the overspray of sleeper grime on top of the lot blends it all together. I will try and dig out a photo where I used 'grey' medium ballast.

 

Woodland scenics medium buff ballast after the ballast, sleepers and rails over sprayed once with RailMatch sleeper grime. The overspray does a lot to blend the whole lot together removing stark contrasts.

 

 

The track in the pic above in on a 3mm track bed which would be suitable out in the country side to create a shoulder, but in the environs of railway stations not needed as it would all have been fairly flat (i.e. like photos of Omagh North). Perhaps make the ballast area just a little wider than the track in your photo.

 

In my case I did not pre-paint the track work, nor rails, I just over sprayed the lot in one go once the ballast/pva/water mix had dried. Before the overspray the buff looked ridiculously bright compared to the unpainted sleepers.

 

TIP - How I removed paint from rail surface: After over spraying the track, ballast and rails with sleeper grime (50% thinned), while it was still wet, I used my index finger tightly wrapped with a small piece of kitchen paper to run along the top of the rail and removed most of the paint just from the top of the rail, being careful not to come into contact with the top of the rail sides, sleepers nor ballast. Than about an hour or two later before the acrylic paint had cured, but was touch dry I used a cotton bud just dampened with methylated spirits to run along the top of the rail to remove any residual paint. It comes off much easier at this early stage before it has had time to fully cure.

Edited April 7, 2017 by Noel

[Noel]

Hi Tony

Two pics below of woodlands before and after the airbrush was used to weather and blend the ballast, rail and sleepers. As you can see, before looks hideous and toy like, but the after looks dulled and less contrast. Air brushed using railmatch sleeper grime thinned 50% with acrylic thinners. It might also save you having to hand paint the rail sides as a separate step.

 

Before

 

After

 

Hope this helps.

 

This is a pic (below) of the ballast still wet just after I had applied the water PVA glue mix to it using an eye dropper. I first gently sprayed tap water on the dry ballast after it had been positioned, to wet it so PVA mix would flow through it, and then used an eye dropper to apply PVA/water mix (50/50%) (few drops of fairy liquid in mix) and allowed it to dry for 24hr before painting. You can see from pic below its fairly wet but when PVA/water has dried it is clear with no visible PVA.

 

Edited April 7, 2017 by Noel

[GNRi1959]

Thanks Noel, all this advice helps. What track are you using by the way?

I'm thinking seriously now about the move to a new garden shed which will mean that Omagh North could be relocated and take on a whole new design.

[Noel]

Thanks Noel, all this advice helps. What track are you using by the way?

I'm thinking seriously now about the move to a new garden shed which will mean that Omagh North could be relocated and take on a whole new design.

 

Hi Tony. Your welcome. I've just added a few extra pics in the post above showing before and after. I used Peco code 100 track. However, I bought our track 23 years ago when much RTR stock still had pizza cutter wheel flanges so would not run over code 75 track, but if I was starting off again today I would have gone with code 75 because modern RTR stock for at least the past 15-20 years has wheel flanges that will run over code 75 track. The lower level inner branch line loop which has not yet been laid will be code 75. Noel

[GNRi1959]

I've decided to call a halt to Omagh North. It isn't taking shape the way I want it and its better to stop now. I plan on taking the time to investigate, plan and design a layout that will allow travel and journey. I have learned so much from the short time I've been here and I thank each and every one of you guys for help, support and advice. A new Omagh will be born soon!

Edited April 7, 2017 by TonyMcGartland

[jhb171achill]

The very best of luck, Tony. These things can indeed take time and experimentation. I'm sure something great will emerge!

[GNRi1959]

I'm waiting on a new garden shed to arrive - measuring 10' x 8'.

When it arrives I will be fitting insulation into the voids and probably sheeting off most of the inside and insulating the internal roof surfaces. I need to provide some form of ventilation. Once I have cleared the foundation for the shed, I can also prepare the new base and install 4" high density foam which will be between ground and shed floor.

[GNRi1959]

Today, Omagh North ceased to exist when the GNRi lifting train arrived. Seen here pictured on top of the Engineers drawings of GNR(i) Omagh Station that I got from the Dundalk yard. Let the track planning for Omagh General Station begin.

 

[GNRi1959]

Starting work on the plans and elevations of the station buildings of Omagh General Station. I managed to get copy of the GNRi Engineers Drawings of the surveyed location and I'm drawing everything life size in AutoCad. This gives me the option to output to any scale. Its early days, but these drawings will keep me occupied until the new shed arrives and I'm up and running again.

 

Edited April 15, 2017 by TonyMcGartland

[Patrick Davey]

Very nice Tony - watching this one with great interest!

[GNRi1959]

Patrick,

Its a very interesting project in many ways. I'm glad it interests you and over the next few days I hope to get the time to complete the main station platform drawings. Next step will be the timber station shelter on the Enniskillen line platform which is made up of a lot of tongue & grooved timber boarding and glazing.

[GNRi1959]

Drawings of Omagh almost complete......

 

[GNRi1959]

After many months of thought I've finally placed an order on a 10'x6' garden shed from a very reputable builder who specialises in quality sheds using good quality materials and techniques. This will take 6-8 weeks for delivery and installation. I'll be then adding my own 'touch' to it with insulated flooring and side walls before I make it ready for what is hoped to be my modelling aim, creating the Goods Yard at Omagh. Theres a definite plan of work ahead and a lot of scratch built stock to work on so hopefully many winters evenings will be passed there.

[PaulC]

I for one can't wait. Looking forward to this develop.

 

Paul

[GNRi1959]

I for one can't wait. Looking forward to this develop.

 

Paul

 

Cheers Paul. Here it is in all its glory!

 

[PaulC]

I love it even more.

 

Paul

[jhb171achill]

It's an absolute scandal that not one atom of that still exists - or has done, thanks to Stormont, for half a century.

[GNRi1959]

It's an absolute scandal that not one atom of that still exists - or has done, thanks to Stormont, for half a century.

 

I photographed the building extensively in 1987 when it was the property of the local district council and still have this 6x6 negs. The rear arches have been restored and incorporated into the new Station Centre, which is a youth club. The large retaining wall to the left and buildings above are still intact.

[GNRi1959]

I love it even more.

 

Paul

 

Is anyone modelling 21mm at the moment. When you consider the trouble we go to to scratch build and source decent wagon drawings its a shame that they are run on 00 gauge track - it looks so 'narrow gauge' when compared to 21mm. If you look closely at the loco in the photo, it is broad!

[David Holman]

Couldn't agree more, Tony. However, for those more interested in operation than visual aesthetics, I also appreciate why many folk stick to 00.

All depends on what the person wants from the hobby. I mainly like building stuff, so having the gauge right is important to me and is a key 'signature' element of modeling the Irish scene.

Am sure others have different priorities and good luck to them, it is this diversity which mades our hobby so appealing to so many different people.

What I will say is that it would be good to see more folk exploring 21mm gauge (and indeed broad gauge in other scales). Fine scale standards do not require P4/S7 wheels and track...

[GNRi1959]

David, I'm with you on that. I plan on laying some test track on a short metre length tester with one point and siding to check my wagons. I see no point in investing in wagon drawing books and photographs to build them on 00 track. Well, thats the choice we have.

[DiveController]

Couldn't agree more, Tony. However, for those more interested in operation than visual aesthetics, I also appreciate why many folk stick to 00.

All depends on what the person wants from the hobby. I mainly like building stuff, so having the gauge right is important to me and is a key 'signature' element of modeling the Irish scene.

Am sure others have different priorities and good luck to them, it is this diversity which mades our hobby so appealing to so many different people.

What I will say is that it would be good to see more folk exploring 21mm gauge (and indeed broad gauge in other scales). Fine scale standards do not require P4/S7 wheels and track...

I don't think that there are that (m)any choices still out there for rtr 21m track and points. The Murphy models diesels are very popular and not that easily converted to 21mm as I understand. Relative shortage of stock although fair play to IRM for keeping the option alive with their stock. I have thought about it but it seems to be more for those who love and are able to build with facility.

[GNRi1959]

I've been reading nothing but Scalefour Society literature recently and playing around with Templet. Its the way to go for serious modellers but to be honest it is a huge money/time add-on to any layout. I've just forked out £650 for a garden shed to build a new layout and small area for scratch building and to be honest I have to seriously question which way to go on track work before any firm decision.

[Mayner]

I would stick with OO or possibly N if you are planning to build a layout with a continuous run in a 10'X6' shed and you want to get something running quickly. I have been working in 21mm gauge for many years and simply haven;t had the time or space to build a layout.

 

OO gauge rtr model steam locos are designed with considerable sideplay between wheels and chassis to reliably operate around curves of down to 15" radius.

 

Handlaying track and building/converting rolling stock to 21mm gauge is straightforward enough provided you have a methodical approach and access to accurate track and back to back gauges.

 

The minimum radius a loco or coach will traverse becomes a greater limiting factor the closer you get to the prototype in terms of wheel profile and gauge, which is one of the main reasons EM, P4 and 21mm layouts tend to be end to end or shunting planks rather than continuous run.

 

2' radius is the minimum recommended for a main line layout in OO- 3' about the minimum for a 4-4-0 tender loco in 21mm to OO/EM standards -3'6-4' in P4

[GNRi1959]

John, some good points indeed.

Its well worth thinking seriously about. Thanks

[David Holman]

John is right about the radii, Tony and a 10x6 shed is unlikely to work for a continuous run in 21mm gauge.

However a 10x6 L would make a very nice terminus fiddle yard and leave you the other side for the work bench. In terms of operation, a terminus fiddle yard can be far more authentic than a tail chaser in some ways. It all depends on what you want. Remember, there is much to be said for starting with a fairly modest scheme which will see tangible results in a reasonable time. If you like making stuff, then I would say doing correct gauge makes it that more interesting, challenging and ultimately satisfying. Equally, just because that is what I like does not mean it is the same for everyone else. A hobby is meant to be enjoyed after all.

[GNRi1959]

David, this could open possibilities. There is no need on my part to have a 'tail chaser' around the shed, the idea of a goods yard and section of shunting track would open several possibilities. I need to also think about moving the layout should I ever consider exhibitions. A series of shelf brackets or trestles would give me this option with baseboard width kept to a minimum width of 400-500mm and a much wider yard area.

[GNRi1959]

Building 4" blockwork on top of 2'x2' flags to raise shed above soil level. Fitting a PVC water channel to side of shed to take any ground water away into gravel soak away. This is going to be home over the winter for a mix of scratch building and contemplating !

Edited September 8, 2017 by TonyMcGartland