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murrayec

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Everything posted by murrayec

  1. Hi Wayside It looks like the fix could work on the Lima, but if you could do closer up photos of top & underside of the bogie, and closer up looking down on the chassis socket/bolster I'd be able to see better? - fill the photo frame with the bogie, that close..... Eoin
  2. Hi Dart8118 The Dublin & Kingstown Railway was constructed on a raised fill so not to interfere with the established streets of Dublin, the arches were constructed so public access under the rail line was provided as their was quite a bit of objection to constructing the line and cutting people off in their established communities. The turn table was for turning locos and tenders to take trains back out of Westland Row for the return journey to Kingstown, they did similar in Kingstown and I read that they disconnected the loco & tender on the move before the station, allowing the train to run into the station on a slight up hill and relying on the guard to apply the breaks! The loco went off to the Carlisle pier turntable and then came back for the return to Westland Row K A Murray's book is a great reference for this line I believe the steps and extension platform are much later additions Eoin
  3. I got the portfolio down out of the attic. It has a map based on another OS map of 1837, and has the semicircular building and goods storage building on it! And after having a lengthy discussion with my friendly railway historian this morning we believe the semicircular building was a cart loading shed- he tells me that the railway line was elevated from the beginning so we believe on that basis and the 3 or 4 arches in the back of the curve at street level it was a system to get goods down from a train and out onto the lower level roads or into the adjacent storage shed to the East fronting onto Lower Sheriff Street..... Eoin
  4. Actually! On doing a bit more map searching I found a pdf file on the 'Wide Streets of Dublin' containing a map of Dublin of 1876 showing Amiens Street Station terminus with a semicircular structure adjacent the railway line, this would have been when the track was not elevated! I found a second map dated 1883 which again shows the semicircular structure and a connection to a rectangular structure off to the east- which would be off the edge of the above map. It looks like it was a building after all and not a retaining wall and when the track was elevated it was built on? I have a portfolio of old Dublin maps stashed in 'my attic' which will take a bit of reorganising to get at, but will do tomorrow..... Eoin
  5. Hi Guys Interesting discussion on Amiens Street Roundhouse! But I think reference to the OSI Map Viewer can tell another story;- The Historic 6 inch map of 1829 to 1842 shows the location of the Dublin to Drogheda line which seems pretty close to the line of the present day raised line. The 6 inch Cassini map of 1830 to 1913 shows the later development of the present day raised line. And the Historic 25 inch map of 1888 shows again further development of the raised line. In the location of the photos posted above a curved line is indicated just after the bridge on the two later survey maps, they also indicate a long shed with two tracks entering from the northern end, as these tracks are on grade with the main line and the roadway is well below the tracks I believe this curved line is indicating a retaining wall, and that is the wall in the photos. I also believe a roundhouse would require a substantial frontage area and most likely a turntable- where in this location there is just not the space to do so with its proximity to the main line. Also note that the ashlar wall returns around at the northern end facing back into the main line track, which would cut off access for locos to get to the shed! This is not to say there might have been plans to build a roundhouse in this location, but I do believe were looking at a curved retaining wall with arched access in under from road level to utilise the space under .... Eoin
  6. Yes its the Murphy models that fix is for, though the Lima has a similar bogie bayonet fixing I think, so the same idea could be used maybe with some variation?? Show us a photo of the bogie and underframe of the Lima and I should be able to come up with an idea Eoin
  7. Hi Wayside Bolt n nut is the best and most economic solution;- All that's required is a M2 bolt, washer, nut and a bit of time Cut the broken bayonet parts flush off the bogie frame, epoxy the washer centrally on the underside of the bogie frame, when the epoxy is set hand drill a 2mm hole through the washer and bogie frame- the washer is the drill guide. Then open out the fixing hole in the chassis bolster downstand (the bit the bogie bayonet used to go into) to approx 4.3mm which is a snug push fit for the nut, push the nut in flush with the bolster base and glue with a small drop of cyano glue, (Tip;- screw a cocktail stick into the nut to hold the nut while inserting it and ensure no glue goes on the threads) when set the bogie can be fitted with the M2 bolt through the washer, smear your nail varnish on the thread before doing so, adjust the screw so the bogie is free to wobble and let the nail varnish set to hold the screw as adjusted... done. Eoin
  8. Train & Model Fair is on this Sunday.
  9. With the insides sorted its time for the roof to go on the coach body. Stage one- tack solder the roof on in spots on the outside to get everything square. Stage 2 - Solder the roof on from the inside, I worked in small runs of solder, alternating to each end and slowly working to the middle. This minimises heat distortion- taking short breaks gives the assembly a chance to cool down also. The tack solder on the outside melted and some of it ran into the detail lines which will be removed with a scalpel blade. Stage 3 - Clean off the tack solder- first with a solder sucker when the tacks are molten with the iron, then the Dremel with a sanding drum, then fine emery paper, and finally the trusty scratch brush. Roof on and the body is not distorted. A few bits to go on the ends, sort out the corridor connectors and we're painting Eoin
  10. Hi John I use a Cameo Silhouette cutter for cutting the plastic card, well it deep scores the card about 3/4 the way through, the blade cannot get through .5mm card, the side of the blade rubs on the side of the cut and wont go any further no matter how many times one re-cuts, so then out with the scalpel to finish off by hand, but very easily done with deep guides to follow, with diagonal cuts in the window opes the waste card snaps out along the score. The Cameo Silhouette will cut through .3mm downwards. I now have a drag knife attachment for the cnc machine for cutting right through plastic card up to 1mm thick, I also cut the card with a 2 flute milling cutter but am experiencing heat problems with the card melting and sticking to the tool! I've just invested in an air cooling system to keep heat away from the tool- yet to run tests! But if all works OK I will be able to cut out large chunks of styrene...... The interior lining idea is so that I will get aluminium colour interior frames to the windows when painted up and complete Eoin
  11. Hi Paddy Sure is- Train & Model Fair is on next Sunday the 17th from 10.30 to 1.30 Eoin
  12. Looking great David, I know the feeling on the painting, I'm finishing the Flying Scotsman with the final painting and every time I think its time for top coat I see another gap that needs filling..... This is fun, see what you can do, see what we make- fun Eoin
  13. Hi Warb I was in Barrow Street today for a meeting, when parking the car I could have sworn I was in the model...... Eoin
  14. Glenderg, I'd love to give it a go! but would need a bigger bench Eoin
  15. Hi David JHB would be the man for this question but I believe he is away holidaying at the moment! Hang in there....... Eoin
  16. Hi Glover Yes I think someone posted those photos on the forum somewhere- black n white photos if I remember correctly? The floral pattern is a bit hard to do, so I'm going to stick with the blue material in the RPSI website photo linked in FL's post above. Eoin
  17. I went with the later seats as per Mr Brendan McCausland's photo of the interior of a Break Standard on flicker;- I felt the material may have been by Downpatrick rather than CIE, but the seats were easier and quicker to make than the old type with arms! I'll do the blue as per the RPSI photo Eoin
  18. Does anybody have a notion on the seat upholstery for the laminates, I read on the forum some time back and I think it was JHB's comment that the seats were 'grey with a blue fleck' or maybe 'charcoal grey with a blue fleck'? Here is a test of both;- Any input is welcome...... Eoin
  19. Hi Steve That looks great, next step is to see them on a coach... Eoin
  20. Mr Bob First one is hard to make out if it's a Class D11, or D14, or D15, or ??, I'd go with a D14 - no models for this one, there are Hornby 4-4-0s that could be converted but they are a bit big and require some converting. Second one is a Class J15, - OO Works do a RTR model and Studio Scale Models do a brass kit if your into building kits. The D14s were built from 1886 to 1891! and steam ships in harbour- my guess on period is 1900 to 1920? Eoin
  21. The moulds for the seats n tables are complete and today I spent the morning plastic casting. I made two sets of moulds to speed things up and I will make a big mould from today's casting of 20 seats for the next coach. First castings. The lot cast. A little bit of a clean up on the edges is required, but wont be stuck down until the floor is painted, also as said above I'll use these 20 seats to make a bigger mould first. Eoin
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