murrayec

PP Print out on A4 with some overlap and tape the prints together, the best way to do this is import the pdf into photoshop and then print from there or even better if @Glenderg is watching he could save out his cad drawing in A4 bits to a pdf which you could print and tape together- sorry R.! I've done boats, bikes & cars- never had a go at real railway though..... Tender drive is really only used when one cannot get the mechanics to fit into the loco! At Gauge 1 there is no problem with this- oodles of space. Also it would be better to have the drive on the main driver wheel that runs the valve gear. Again I feel a book reference coming up! Mr Ian Rice did two books 'Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm' ISBN 1 874103 10 0 & 'Etched Loco Construction ISBN 0 906867 86 X both Wild Swan Publication. These are a mine of information, not the same scale but the methods can be applied. The chassis book is a must for building your own chassis..... other mandatory reading is anything by Henry Greenly (blame him for OO scale), Martin Evens, Guy Williams & Geoff Holt- The first two did big stuff as well as small. If you follow any of these guys methods the motion and stuff will run. ! you'll need to get a bigger bookshelf ! Eoin

PP In my view you got to build this to run, if you spend a whole lot of time and money to build this I reckon in the end one would kick themselves if it could not run! Slaters and the like are not the place, one needs to step up to the Model Engineer Suppliers;- Gauge 1 Model Railway Association has a lot of links to traders and do some very helpful books and data sheets;- https://www.g1mra.com/ Walsall Model Industries do 3 foot cast drivers & truck wheels and a whole lot of other useful stuff, their wheels can be purchased as castings or pre machined n insulated;- https://www.walsallmodelindustries.co.uk/ At first the cost of parts seems high compared to the smaller scales but this is another realm! when one builds and runs a large scale loco or train it is very hard to go back!! Take a look at this Gauge 1 Class 800 built by Mr Kelly MRSI;- Eoin

PP I found the wheel build- it's not a vid it was photos on fb. I pm'd you a the photos Eoin PP You'll enjoy that, Mike Sharman built amazing models and layouts..... Eoin

Hi PP A soldering gun is not ideal, their heavy and the way the tip is designed its hard to manipulate inside a chassis, also the contact surface area of the tip is not big enough to get the heat into the parts- fine for electrical work in my experience. Eileens do a Antex 100w for about £20.00 with a grand big flat tip excellent for this work- I use one of these Buying a lathe is a whole other thread! In my opinion one should buy the biggest lathe possible! I have a Mini lathe and its fine for small part turning but it is just to small for comfortable hand access regardless of how small the part is, getting tools in at the work and finding a way of holding the work can be quite frustrating. Larger work cannot be done on it and I have to go elsewhere to do that. A Myford Series 7 is the ideal size but the cost is crazy, the Myford ML10 is a lot cheaper but not as adaptable. Also consider being able to mill in the lathe! I setup the Mini lathe to do milling and again found the size frustrating and eventually got a mill/drill for milling. Also consider tooling- the lathe is probably 1/3rd of the requirement- the other 2/3rds is the tooling to do the work!..... Browse 'Model Engineer' & 'Model Engineer Workshop' magazines for adds and info Wheel building;- If you can find a copy of Mike Sharman's book 'A Guide to Locomotive Building - From Prototype to Small Scale Models' ISBN 0 85361 341 9, he gives a great method to building wheels for his Crompton big wheels but the method can be used on smaller stuff, the books has loads more helpful tips also....... Eoin

PP I use 180 for most work, as Galteemore says 'be quick' so loads of heat, a 100w iron will work on chassis parts- one just needs to keep the heat going in the chassis when you get it up to temperature and work on heavy sections first, being careful not to raise the temp to high otherwise it will distort. Use heat-sinks to help take heat away from soldered parts.....lumps of aluminium are good for this- loves heat and solder wont take to it. Try to stay away from using a torch on brass- very hard to control the heat- and suddenly all your previous soldering falls apart! a torch is good for taking things apart... Eoin

Hi PP You may find some helpful soldering 'tips' here;- Fabricating up wheels- if you are going to run the model a lathe will be an essential tool! I have a link to a youtube video of a guy fabricating wheels using a home made aluminium jig which I kept for reference!! - when I find it i'll post a link.... Eoin

Hi PP 10mm to 1 foot is Gauge 1 scale (1:30), most people run gauge 1 on 44.45mm track (4ft 8.5ins), Gauge O track at 32mm which is 2mm over 3ft narrow gauge! but if your going to build your own track all should be OK..... or just go with 32mm! So Gauge 1 wheels and stuff is available Eoin

fl I'll be back to you soon Eoin

Hi fl I have not had a chance to beef up the patterns to make new moulds - Not enough months in a year!! I do have a set of parts that would do one coach, I have yet to install the suspension & torsion bars, if your interested in them I'll do that? Eoin

PP Yes, you'll need to talk with them- most likely they will have to make them up as these would not be a standard stock item on the website Eoin

PP Try Slaters I believe they can supply broad gauge axles- could be corrected on this though! Eoin oops! narrow gauge Eoin!!

PP David Rowlands book 'The Tralee & Dingle Railway' has a picture (as Galteemore's post above) of No.2T page 70 and again its shown on page 29 from the other side- indicating the doors are opposite each other. Eoin

Thanks Fran I'll come back to you on the A4!! there is a lot of stuff queued up for the workbench and current stuff to be finished first...... Eoin

Thanks man, and great to have your support to Eoin

Thanks guys for your comments and that you followed it along, as I said above- knowing your following it and getting feedback makes the fun even greater.... Eoin.

Hi David Thanks, yes its great to get it complete, its been in my head for the last 4 years and its probably going to take some time to get it out! The client will also be delighted. 'What's Next' - I'd like to get back to finishing the development of the 'Hibernia' kit, which features earlier in this thread. I recently conserved the Fry Hibernia model for the new museum in Malahide and now my version is back out of the attic! Though I have a number of jobs that have to be done- Gauge 1 Class 800, Gauge O Class 800, B2 Class 400, GNRi Class 43, CIE D19, Gauge OO Laminates and.......... oh my G, Eoin

Hi popeye Yes, I am delighted. I stopped counting the hours about halfway through as that was getting scary, I just concentrated on having fun! well most of the time. Thanks for your comments & support along the way, and to all others that did the same. Having this thread going at the same time as the build added another dimension to model building, looking forward to showing the work and getting feedback & discussion really helps. Eoin

The Flying Scotsman kit build is complete. It was touch and go assemble it- as its a hard beast to handle without damaging the finishes with screwdrivers, files and the like doing final adjustments. I'm pretty happy with the way it has turned out. I'll post up a few more photos later when I get it out into the daylight. I should have it on display this coming Sunday at the Train & Model Fair in Bray if anyone would like to see it for real. Eoin

Another thing I remembered to do on the Flying Scotsman- a motor flywheel. A bit of brass from the scrap box, its going to be 22mm dia with a few holes like spokes and a recess cut to get the weight on the outside for maximum flywheeling! Turned on the lathe and now transferred to the mill rotary table to drill the holes and mill the slot. Done and Loctited on. A quick test run to check all systems are OK before the body goes on. And now the best bit! Just about to get stuck in and guests arrived........ Eoin

Hi PP David Holman's thread on building Clogher Valley layout has some good stuff about building 7mm track;- You can buy rails and sleepers from Peco rather than cutting up track, Marcway is also a good source. You'll need a few track gauges to set everything up and that might be a problem finding them for narrow gauge- some of the societies may sell them! A good reference book on building track is;- 'Finescale Track in 4mm' by Ian Rice, Wild Swan Publication, ISBN 1874103003. A different scale but the approach can be applied to what your doing..... Eoin

Coaling up the Flying Scotsman's tender....... Two pieces of cardboard were cut out to close off the coal chute and the top of the tender, painted black and stuck in with impact adhesive. Dilute Mod Podge was used to glue the coal in. The coal that came with the kit was a bit chunky- almost the size of a man! So with the 'modellers magic wand' I reduced the size a bit- small coal for in the chute and bigger in the tender, the fireman will have to use the lump hammer as the big stuff comes to the chute. All done. Tender body now on its chassis. Port hole window glued on and buffers installed. I then started getting the chassis ready for the fitting of the footplate, cab & boiler. First was to install the valve reversing rod and gear- oops! had not looked at the chassis for a while and realised the reversing rod support bracket required modification, the kit provided the incorrect bracket, but they did follow up with a mod part which I butchered and soldered onto the installed bracket- needs a bit of paint now. I installed a switch to turn off the power to the motor so that the loco can be displayed static with the fire running. Another item missing in the kit was the whistle, so I made up my version of one with .7mm brass wire and styrene- needs painting now. The display plinth and track is complete, cut from mdf, with a bit of a moulded edge and painted brown to give a dark hardwood look. Wheel sanding piping was made up from .7mm brass wire and will be epoxied on when the paint is dry- these, the wheel centre lining and fitting the body tomorrow....... Almost there! Eoin

Hi PP The 7mm Narrow Gauge Association Book No. 6 has Mr Emslie's- side elevation, back n front drawings (no plan) in 7mm scale, there are axle ctr dimensions given only- but the drawings could be scaled! Diarmuid Byrne of Wierpark Books had a copy of this booklet at the last Stillorgan Show, you can catch him in Fairyhouse Market tomorrow, and he's on facebook...... Eoin

Lads would you stop just buy two! "Their going to be great" Eoin

Hi John As Ken says 'essential' if you want to get accurate folds, they are also very helpful for clamping small parts when soldering. I use the type from Eileens and have 3 sizes- 2'', 8'' & 14'' https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1128&name=soft-iron&Itemid=189 I also use clamping bars- two 6mm square bright steel bars that bolt together with counter sunk hex bolts, clamp the parts to be bent in the bars and then mount it in the bench vice for bending, I have a few of different lengths and thickness..... Tamiya do photo etch folding pliers, also pricey but very handy- especially folding a part thats already soldered on a model. Come in a few different sizes also. https://www.emodels.co.uk/tamiya-bending-pliers-mini-for-photo-etched-parts-74084.html Eoin

The Flying Scotsman crew inspecting the cab of their new command before it goes onto the footplate. Eoin