murrayec

PP At the last Train & Model Fair one of the chaps said it 'was like luggage'.... Eoin

The baseboards transit system, here are a few photos of what I have settled on for the moment- 2 no. base trays and 2 no. lifting handle plates;- 9mm birch ply base tray to take two of the baseboards, with M8 T-Nuts set in at the centres of the baseboard dowel system- so that two boards bolt to this tray through the dowel holes. The base tray and lifting handle plate have a 9x20mm ply spacing strip down the middle and 9x20mm edge strips (9x40mm on the handle plate) to hold the boards snug n tight when all is bolted up. With the second board bolted onto the base tray the lifting handle plate is installed and secured in place with M6 counter sunk screws into threaded inserts in the baseboard frame. Two of the boards ready to go....... Eoin

@patrick Try Des in Studio Scale Models, I think I have seen him issue them in the past! Eoin

Sorry Leslie It's one of your SL&NCR's, I was able to squeeze in some top-hat wheel bearings also. I'll take 4 kits Eoin

Hi Leslie I'll be picking up a few at Blackrock also, I've been working out some weathering details in anticipation- here are a few shots of the cattle wagon left in a siding gone to hell! Just about finished except for a straw bedding flowing out the sides mixed in with a bit of dodo!! Eoin

JasonB I would love to have a space like that, dying to see how you fill it up....... Great work on gutters and flashings- you have added years to its life. Eoin

Hi gph2000 As far as I know Silver Fox gives you all the parts for the model body and chassis, but Worsley gives you the body and chassis etches and no castings- not that it needs much castings to complete it, i'd go for the brass kit, but it is a more complex build needing a few self made parts and more figuring out.... that's the fun bit! Eoin

Don't run it any-more until you have a good look inside! at a guess I'd say one of the gears is stripped and that's what's what making the grinding noise- most likely the worm gear in one of the bogies is riding over the wheel gear under and is stripping it's teeth?? Eoin

Hi @David Holman I got it on the Scale Model Shop website;- https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/?s=nutter But looks like it's out of stock at the moment! Have a look at their other tools though- very handy stuff on here.... Eoin Hi @Mike 84C That's the problem with rivets- drives one to drink Eoin

Nuts & rivets can also be done with the 'Nutter' a very handy tool for pressing out nuts & rivets in lead sheet for sticking on to your model;- and the above rivets added to door straps The tool comes with tools of your scale choice and different scale tools are supplied separately. Eoin Eoin

PP You could use Postpal if he refuses to send to you- with the American address Postpal you have to register for 'home delivery' which costs a bit more but one does get the parts! Eoin

PP Here is a very helpful web site for the lathe with many links to articles on mods and parts- it may help;- http://www.cartertools.com/ Eoin

PP There was a plan to build a port in the West near Achill back in the steam days, but the ship would have to have big steam paddles on the sides and the containers made of wood Eoin

...otherwise radio control model ship kits is another source, the ship that IRM now sports in their new facility was built by baseboarddave from one of these kits Eoin

Branno As DC says- you'll get that stuff where you found that picture and Wrennie will be at the Train & Model Fair on the 18th August if you can make it to Bray co. Wicklow.... Eoin

August date for the Train & Model Fair;-

Hi josefstadt I had thought if it- but I dismissed the corridor around the break compartment as there is goods doors on both sides and reckoned this would be the end of the train! I also had the partition at the other end in the correct location first but soldered it in the wc partition location, leaving the doors in the seating area- I only noticed this when making up the seats. Both are fixable, I'll use styrene to do the partitions. Was there a set of doors in the break compartment partition into the corridor to access the exterior doors on that side? Eoin

Laminate body painting. Having restored the dodgy undercoat I set about painting the body;- White first for the stripe. Then masked off the white stripe for painting the orange. Orange done, used Phoenix paints Class 201 (dull). Orange complete and now masking up for the black. Black done, I used Humbrol 85 Satin Black. and the enjoyable time- peeling off the masking tape to see what mess is underneath! Lovely and other side, lovely! A slight bit of touching up required;- the paints ran into the etched lines under the masking and the upper door hinges did the same. But overall delighted with the way it came out...... Eoin

Wood wagons;- mdf can be got in the hardware suppliers down to 3mm thick, birch ply at 2mm (it's a bit bendy) and the model suppliers do mdf in thinner sizes. Eoin

Hi PP Use styrene sheet - one could always use it for the model! Some guys have been known to shellac varnish cardboard and paint up their loco, coach or wagon this way..... Eoin

Hi fl Its going to be black & orange with white stripe above window. These are now ready for issue to you;- Eoin

Rescue operations on the laminate coach build;- the body and chassis were primed and under-coated at the same time I was doing the Flying Scotsman, if you read that thread you'd know the problem- dusty under coat due to a faulty gun! I had also painted the inside of the body silver which will require masking. Both the body and chassis needed recovery, I used my home made blast cabinet to cut back the messy undercoat. Low pressure and fine grit cut back the paint almost to the brass and left a beautiful surface to undercoat again. Because I silvered the interior a bit early, masking was required to the inside before painting commenced. and recovered. The chassis is undergoing the same treatment and now nearly back to finalising the paintwork. Eoin

All excellent, but the Ahern book is outdated now with his solid block chassis! but still a good reference and a collectors item, as it was the first comprehensive and detailed book on loco building, there were others but it set a new standard. I used to regularly take this book out of the Dun Laoghaire library many moons ago until I could afford to buy a copy..... Eoin

PP Print out on A4 with some overlap and tape the prints together, the best way to do this is import the pdf into photoshop and then print from there or even better if @Glenderg is watching he could save out his cad drawing in A4 bits to a pdf which you could print and tape together- sorry R.! I've done boats, bikes & cars- never had a go at real railway though..... Tender drive is really only used when one cannot get the mechanics to fit into the loco! At Gauge 1 there is no problem with this- oodles of space. Also it would be better to have the drive on the main driver wheel that runs the valve gear. Again I feel a book reference coming up! Mr Ian Rice did two books 'Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm' ISBN 1 874103 10 0 & 'Etched Loco Construction ISBN 0 906867 86 X both Wild Swan Publication. These are a mine of information, not the same scale but the methods can be applied. The chassis book is a must for building your own chassis..... other mandatory reading is anything by Henry Greenly (blame him for OO scale), Martin Evens, Guy Williams & Geoff Holt- The first two did big stuff as well as small. If you follow any of these guys methods the motion and stuff will run. ! you'll need to get a bigger bookshelf ! Eoin