Glenderg

Very very impressive work, and a stunning result. I'm really taken by the rivet detail, and the tender elements. Hard to believe it comes from a kit tbh. Congrats to 5XP and Des .

Very impressive work kevrail, especially the attention to detail. Any chance of some overall shots? Carrig Donn is sweet. Richie.

Seems fine, based on other photos I have. Even the UK variety by Fauve-Girel have the same high bufferbeam.

When the dayglow panels got so dirty, it was an indication that it was time to wash the carriages. No? A weathering vane? R

Nice one, thanks. R

Bigjigs Toys, a toy company that makes wooden railways, has released details of its failed bid for the troubled west coast mainline - despite offering a completely free service. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/shortcuts/2013/jan/08/toy-train-west-coast-mainline Bigger version here https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/148978_10151281614048649_1926820579_n.jpg

So is there a definite answer to Kirley's question? Was there all three - dayglow, number and leccy flash, or just numbers and flashes ? Richie.

very tasty modelling indeed Pat, especially that little narrow gauge loading plant, hours of fun! Pity bout "Le Musak" soundtrack though.

http://www.geograph.ie/photo/1693266

Eamonn & Co., Many thanks lads for the responses, it seems I needed only look at your thread Eamonn and I would have been sorted for what I needed. It's a bit of a beast of a thing - 1300mm long and 360mm high, and if I get the bridge and the weedspray done, I might be able to recreate that photo in 00! When google comes up short, ask here! Here's the drawings if anyone else fancies a scratchbuild. I've shown a single deck detail, which needs to be copied four times, or more if you fancy! The drawing is A1 in size and plotted off makes a build template. If anyone needs a physical copy, just shout. http://www.brassjacket.com/IRM/0602_Ballyvoile_Viaduct-Forum.pdf Richie.

I've heard of the "hidden agenda sulzer" in hushed tones, and veiled references to glass cabinets. Like men in brown suits organising a coup d'etat. "Have you seen her?" - "No, but I know a man who has...." I can see why now. Good god almighty gareth, simply phenomenal. DB doing a trade is even more surprising! Richie

I've seen a few great photos of the viaduct in Martin Bairstow's latest instalment, and I have the goo on me to build it, just for the craic really. Anybody got any up close shots of this fella, or photos looking down along the track? I'm assuming it was a single track viaduct, about 16ft wide??? I have the elevations of the steel sections and concrete supports done, and would be happy to post them up, but I'm a bit stuck on the cross-section. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Richie.

Found also at Limerick Colbert last week.... Nice one Wanderer! I was wondering about the photoshopped snow and it's poor blending at the right hand side of the photo! Richie

lovely work indeed. You're rate of progress is astonishig Richie

This project has been going on for bloody ages - I had to clear out the camera.. Mr Bracken turned up at my door one afternoon with a pair of these in hand. Triang "build it yer feckin self" numbers from the late 60's. "Gis a weedspray" says he "the 'aul wan", thrusting the box of chaos in my direction. Challenge accepted. Foolishly.... The box claims them to be "Maroon Composite Coaches", totally unsuitable conversions to the Bredin Weedspray Coach, and a bit short, but they come apart nicely. Note Surgeons Saw to the right... I did up the drawings for this some time ago and posted it up somewhere around here, with prototype and 00 dimensions. Many thanks to Heirflick for the photos he posted, invaluable. A rough fit... Stuck to a 2 x 2 mm piece of styrene - past experience tells me to glue this with the toughest gear you can find. Flexing of the body after filler is applied to the joints is a recipe for disaster at painting stage. A quick tangent here - do not use the gunk on the right. They might smell the same, have the same consistency under finger, and be water soluble but that's where the similarity ends. You'd have more luck using cow dung as a filler and an easier time sanding it too than use this rubbish. I love a shortcut as good as a Maor at a GAA match, but this is a ditch to high to climb. I can't recommend Perfect Plastic Putty highly enough. Begone that lunatic Milliput stuff! The roof should have ribs more akin to the Stanier variety, to cover the jointing between the roof panels. I've used plastic strip to make that feature stand out. I could have used strips of insulating tape but it didn't have the depth I wanted. White primer to highlight the wobbly bits, and it's like me stomach after Christmas - a few additional unwanted lumps. Roof sat on top, and the window rails and mullions look really out of scale. Another run on the bacon slicer for a few of them lumps.... A quick blast of yellow to see if it "has" the look. That's Vallejo yellow on it, and Humbrol RC 407 on the spoil container. The spoil yellow is closer to prototype..more sanding.... The double container doors on each side had to be scratchbuilt, so what better time than New Years Eve? 6 Hours later all four were finished, using an acetate overlay on the drawings, so that all four were spot on. 0.3mm styrene rod and other bits were used to make the door handles and hinges. The "steels" had this beauty board type covering to cover the joints between panels, so finely cut Tamiya masking tape was employed. It's used to paint, so I superglued it down with a cocktail stick... New Years Eve, my house, mad craic altogether.... Cutting out overscale 1960's window parts.... Windows - WD40 sprayed on a clear CD cover and cut with a fine saw. Scalpel/blade only produces fine fissures, so a saw is a must. WD40 is handy to prevent scratching while it's worked, and a file used to round the corners. This is where she's at now. Windows fitted and masked off. This is after 9 coats of yellow, and more end sanding to go..Missing a hinge on a door...but it's beginning to look like a Bredin Loads more tomorrow.. Richie.

The Christmas thing has been a welcome time to get stuck into a few projects, about 18 in total, and over the next few days I'll post the photos up. They're not all buildings either - there are a few rail projects in here too! First up - some stuff that went in the post to Kirley - a few bits enhance his UTA era station... Entrance Canopy and Railside Canopy above. The underside that'll only be seen be spiders! Detail of the valances...hand cut....much craic... Little baggies of stuff are all the rage 'round the North Inner City here. Contents cannot be snorted! A scale GNR (I) enamel sign - I'll be posting these up shortly for all to print out. Nearly done. Two little freestanding double sided heritage signs for the platform. Even though Kirley Junction is in the UTA period, many stations would have left these in place until the late 60's and early 70's. Plus Man With Shovel approves.... Anto sent me on this little number, so I added a backing and it'll be winging it's way north shortly. I have found a bizarre number of 96 inch posters, bus and train from the last 50 years, that will be part of the signage collection I'm going to post. Bus Eireann to Stena Lines to the most recent Irish Railfreight at Christmas poster....

That's for the next - Accessories for the Paint and the Airbrush and the Whatnot - thread!

Humbrol These tinlets are the standard bearer of enamel paint, we probably all have them as leftovers from Saab Viggens or Bristol Beaufighters. The ones above span a thirty year period, and are all in working condition. Prices vary from "stolen from easons limerick 1987" to "€2.40 Easons limerick 2007" As a product, they have undergone a bit of a transformation in the last few years, and I'm endeavouring to replace the aul' wans. Matt paints can still be a bit cantakerous, but the gloss versions are great. Metallic though could do with some help. Available from: The Model Shop, Belfast, Marks Models, Almost Nationwide, Banba/Toymaster outlets, Any Other Retailer - ? Revell These can be found at great value in Banba/Toymaster stores - and as long as you make a note of the equivalent humbrol colour on the pot lid, you won't go wrong. I've generally had less problems with the Matt paints from the Revell range, but they have much longer drying times. Requires a lot of tinkering with dilution for airbrushing and can have a lot of wastage as a result. Same applies to Humbrol above. Available from: Banba/Toymaster outlets, €1.50 Any Other Retailer - ? Railmatch After reading about these for years, I discovered these for sale a few years ago in the ModelShopBelfast, and everytime I pop in, I pick up a bottle, irrespective of colour. They are perhaps the finest paints for weathering with an airbrush, particularly for a beginner. The colours they generate, and their dilution makes them an excellent starting point for dirt, be it a little squirt, or an overall blast. I've never had any trouble with them, and though they are not cheap, they are excellent. A little really goes a long way with these guys, and airbrushes love them. However, the colour range is limited to dirt etc. Perfect for Irish Rail. Available from: The Model Shop, Belfast, Any Other Retailer - ? Jim Poots Paints At Raheny I picked up two tinlets of what I believe to be heritage CIE colours. Forgetting about my discomfort with the colour of the LSD green, they are perhaps the finest paints I've ever put into an airbrush. A quick stir and the colour in the tin matches that of the tin lid. That can't be said of all the paints above. No lumps, bits stuck to the end. My only trouble with these is that there is no text on the outside to remind me if its early or late CIE green etc. etc. I should have marked it on, but I thought my memory was good. Available from: Jim Poots - Fairs and Shows (?) open to correction. Conclusion: There are obviously ranges I am not including, like Phoenix Precision, but the ones above are the only ranges I have experience with. This is not meant to be a definitive list or a "I know it all" thread, but I have 30 years of inhaling this stuff with over 1200 tinlets from all the ranges above. I'd like to include the thoughts from Anto, GeorgeConna, Seamus, and any other "auld hand" airbrushers here, if they'd be good enough to post some thoughts, I'll include them above. Kind Regards, Richie.

Rails to Achill - A West of Ireland Branch Line, and Achillbeg - Life of an Island, the latter not having much to do with rail. His contributions to this forum alone are worthy of printed form. Am I right in assuming he's a relative of the other great Beaumont of Irish Rail Engineering?

Is it just me or is rust a different colour under the south of france skies. It seems a lot more appropriate colour 'neath the Irish leaded skies! Great snaps Bosko, though you might consider bringing the weedspray next year...if Heirflick will let you have it.... R

anything jhb has put his hand to is worthy of being in any book collection. Nuff said!

There was a post a few years ago on RMWeb by a chap who was impressed by a fellas Deltic offerings on ebay. After a click on "other items by this seller" he was presented with class 31's, class 20's, mk 1 carriages, broken freight bits, broken leather bits, blinkers, saddles, bridles, whips, chains, ball gags, restraints and strap ons......All filed under "collectibles" if i remember.... As Digi said " Bigi Curamach"! R

Hmm, that's a dilemma all right. I suppose it comes down to how complex your layout is going to be, and then the proposed cost of the new track, taking into account the trade in/fleabay of your code 100. And is it worth it? I've seen plenty irish layouts here with code 100, where the track is ballasted and weathered nicely, and it overrides the overscale nature of the track. Alternatively, you could do a massive industrial layout and bury all the track in concrete, and nobody would notice

Dave, What vintage is your stock, particularly the locos? The tolerances of the older wheels over the vees etc. on points are a derailing issue. If it's all new stuff you have, flog the code 100, and go 75. Ask Bosko though. He has every piece of stock going and he's on code 75. R

Instead of brining the other thread completely off topic, i thought i'd throw down a few notes on paint and how it affects your decision for what airbrush to purchase. This is not intended as an "enamel vs acrylic" discussion. I took some time to take photographs of paints to inform rather than use handy marketing snaps from the web. I hope this info is of some use to the younger brigade who may be assembling a paint collection or those who are are thinking of getting an airbrush. In the interest of supporting the home grown retailers, I'd like to include availability and cost per pot, so if I don't have you listed post or pm, I'll update the thread. Every little helps. Acrylics Tim Shackleton has a whole chapter on paint in his book on weathering techniques, so i'll briefly sum it up. Acrylic paint consists of particles of paint suspended in water, which never dissolve completely with the medium, and is why you will see separation of water and paint in a tin left for some time. Acrylic is a plastic, a polymer emulsion, the medium it is suspended in being the emulsifier. One is a plastic (from oil) the other water, or a derivative medium (water-based). How they work is best left to Mr. White. Acrylic paints generally break up into various dilutions, some which love water, like watercolours, others that don't - like artists acrylic. Avoid both for airbrushing, they are not designed to be fired out of a gun at high pressure. The paint I want to focus on is the variety you can buy in the Modelshop, Marks, Easons, ModelshopBelfast. Now let me get to the separation part. Some paints are better than others at avoiding this and i'll get to the products shortly. As the particles of water and acrylic leave the airbrush at high pressure, much of the water evaporates. As these two media separate, particles stick to poorly engineered airbrush nozzles, in the microscopic grooves left behind at manufacture. These will build up creating a little pile obstructing the flow. I find the more a paint is willing to separate in its tin, the more hassle you'll have later on. Acrylic paints then... Vallejo - or - Model Colour Both the paints above have been shaken for a good minute, but still produce this "snot". Not ideal for airbrushing small amounts of colour, but if you can decant it into another pot to mix and thin, all the better. This stuff loves separation, will clog readily a cheap airbrush, but it's colour depth is great. Perfect dispensing nozzle for airbrushes, no wastage or spillage. Not readily available here on the high street, and sometimes labels do not match the contents. My Algal green is battleship grey..! For the novice I'd steer clear - to find a colour to suit a particular rail livery you may have to buy several to see which is best. 17ml tubs though, and they don't take up much room. That's the green one on the right....! Available from : The Model Shop, Capel Street, Dublin 1 - €2.80 ea Any Other Retailer - ? Humbrol The older type love the clogging, and are better suited to hand painting for figures. ( the ones at the back) However the more recent versions are excellent, especially the authentic rail colour variety. Readily available from most retailers here, and I'm sure if you wanted a batch purchase a deal could be done. The only way to assemble a paint collection quickly. 14ml tubs like their enamel cousins, and same size so if you have a drawer with separations to accept both even better. Accurate painted lids make these really good value when looking for a colour in a hurry. Available from : The Model Shop, Capel Street, The Model Shop, Belfast, Marks Models, Almost Nationwide, Banba/Toymaster outlets, Any Other Retailer - ? Tamiya Lovely smelling paints, which are in an acrylic medium rather than water, and go on well. Domestic authorities tend to mention the smell though. Not easy to find, usually in bargain buckets, and rather expensive relatively. The nice little glass bottles only come with 10ml, opposed to 14ml normally, so a bit of a swizz. Available from : The Model Shop, Belfast, Marks Models, Almost Nationwide, Banba/Toymaster outlets, Any Other Retailer - ? Games Workshop These paints never seem to separate and generally do not clog, though it's not easy to get consistent dilution to suit airbrushes. Also at 4eu for 12ml, it's poor value. Also the colour range would not be as wide as the guys above, with highly saturated colours, more suited to lazer wielding orcs than brake vans. Available from : Games "Hey, what orc are you painting then (get away from me freak...grrr)" Workshop - €4.00 Free pain in the ass from the spotty kid with every purchase. Revell Acrylic I like these a lot, good square pots - hard to knock over after a beer or two, and the lid doubles as a brush holder, - most importantly - the paint does not separate. My only complaint is that the sticker on the lid doesn't always match the contents accurately, but this could be from shop soiling and age. The big upside is that it is in an 18ml jar and I find the yellows and orange tones to suit Irish Rail colours. If I were to restart my acrylic paint collection again, I'd go with Revell for brush and airbrush work. Available from : Banba/Toymaster outlets Any Other Retailer? Lastly, there are acrylic mediums out there - Tamiya and Windsor & Newton. I have yet to see Tamiya for sale here, but I believe it is excellent. Rather than using water to dilute, it's a specialized formula to try and blend the paint and carrier more effectively, so less clogging. I uses the Windsor & Newton one, and it does a great job. Des noted once that denatured alcohol also works fine, but I assume that's only available from chemists. The alcohol evaporates nearly instantly on contact with the surface, for quicker times between coats. Enamels Enamel paint generally has a different molecular make-up than acrylic, whereby the solution which dilutes it becomes a constituent part of the paint rather than a carrier. However, there are two different formats when it comes to enamel paint that aren't such an issue whit acrylics. Matt and Gloss. No, not a poor boy band from the mid eighties, but two different paint formulas which behave completely differently, particularly in the tinlet. Matt paint generally has thicker particles which, when suspended in a thinner, and gravity effects same, means it falls to the bottom of the tin. It may never harden, but the long it stays in the pot, the more stirring is required to re-agitate the paint and make it useful. Matt paint, prior to airbrushing, requires a hell of a lot more time stirring to ensure you will not get gummed up in an airbrush. Cocktail sticks and fancy coffee stirrers aren't worth a fiddlers for waking up the paint - grab a fat paint brush that has seen better days and hammer the crap out of it. Lumps will be stuck to the bad brush. Be sure to transfer the "good paint" to another pot, via the brush, and then thin. Don't take matt paint direct from the pot, or else you'll get textured bits like orange peel coming out the end of you airbrush. I have a 25 year old pot of Humbrol 82 - the Gurkha colour - and the Gurkha mentality. It just keeps coming back for more punishment. Gloss paint has a different compound make up, though a lot heavier in parts per million than matt paint, has a finer solution. Rarely will you find a tinlet of gloss paint that has separated, this is commonplace with it's matt cousin . It also contains extras which enhance colour, glossiness, and at times metal particles to produce silver, metal, and bronze. With gloss paints, the main drawback is dilution - a crimson red gloss will be as thick as snot, and a silver will be as thick as kids snot. This has to do with the components added above. The way I work out the dilution for the above paints is that if its an old colour that would appeal to a 40 year old, thin it 4 to 1. If it would appeal to a 10 year old, thin it 1 to 1. Not scientific at all, but its my non patented Snot Scale. It's easier to thicken paint in the airbrush environment than thin it. Thin paint won't adhere to anything. So sum up with enamel paints, matt paint is really enjoyable to work with, though if from an old tinlet, needs to treated with caution - and gloss paint it is the easiest formula for airbrushing, without question. Whether you stick to the Snot Scale or not is your choice! Thankfully the range of enamel paint falls doesn't vary as much as acrylic. If you have good ventilation and a 3M mask, patience to wait between coats drying, enamels are the way to airbrush.