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irishthump

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Everything posted by irishthump

  1. I stumbled across this great series of videos on Youtube. Lots of protypical footage...
  2. Believe what when you see it? Him not buying any more locos or a RTR 121?
  3. If you run your locos on a regular basis, then modern models like MM's need very little maintenance. Wheel cleaning being the only thing that regularly needs doing. Most models now have can motors, so the brushes are not accesible and lubriction should be done sparingly (usually be applied with the head of a pin.) As Warbonnet said; if a loco is running and not making any funny noises, then leave it alone!
  4. Actually that one in the picture is too short - it's a bleedin' N gauge model!
  5. No argument there.... I have one and I'm not too impressed with it. I replaced the traction tyres with metal wheels so it now picks up power on all wheels, added a load of weight and it still would'nt pull the skin of a rice pudding!
  6. Looks a bit long to me; too much space between the bogies....
  7. I was actually talking about the A class! I'd give a cosmetic axle a go with the Athearn chassis. You can pick them up handy (and cheaply) enough on Ebay and they can be made to run very well with a bit of work. I certainly would'nt spend close to €100 on a 141 just to stick the chassis under a silverfox kit.
  8. To hell with that!
  9. The F7 chassis is a good fit if you're not concerned about using a Bo-Bo. I've been dabbling with trying to fit Co-Co bogies to the chassis... It's going to be difficult to fit the driveshafts but it certainly looks the part. You'd even get away with the fuel tank.
  10. First of a couple of questions.... 1) Does the loco run ok on DC or with a different decoder on DCC? 2) Have you tried resetting the decoder?
  11. Same here.
  12. The BEMF adjustments are limited on the Sapphire, but CV 150 has 2 settings to suit different motor types. CV 150 can be set to either 0 or 1 and if I remember correctly a value of 1 is for older motors. Might be worth a try.... But you have to bear in mind that this motor will never run as well as the MM locos. MM's are equipped with a good quality can motor and flywheels which improve slow running considerably, you will probably get the 58 motor running smoothly but it's slowest (reliable) speed will be higher than an MM. I would concentrate on getting the loco to run steadily at speed step 1.
  13. No arguement there!
  14. When I eventually get round to getting an A class kit I'll probably try and find an engine sound that resembles it on the ESU website. There would have to be something that would be close!
  15. You're right there. The Select seems mainly aimed at US modellers.
  16. Yes, they have the equivalent Select versions for each of the sound files. But I don't think you can alter specific sounds like horns or engine sounds with the Select versions.
  17. And I thought it was just me! I always thought the A's sounded more Sulzer-ish myself.... They just did'nt have that whine when notching up.
  18. I recently splashed out on a Lokprogrammer myself and ESU have several engine sounds which are suitable for Irish diesels in the library of US sounds. I've programmed 3 V4 Loksounds for my Irish locos already. The Lokprogrammer also allows you to programme Loksound Selects with these files.
  19. Nice neat conversion job, Billyboy. What decoder did you use in the loco? Did you also connect the lights?
  20. Also available from Digitrains in the UK - http://www.digitrains.co.uk/ecommerce/search/827109-tsu-1000-sond-decoder-for-emd-645-non-turbo-diesels.aspx The engine sound will be great, the Tsunami's are probably the best sounding decoders available, but you might find it hard to get the horn sound right. Tsunami's come preloaded with a selection of US horn sounds but none of them are really protoypical for Irish locos.
  21. Sorry, forgot to mention that I don't use JMRI myself but I've seen threads that say function remapping is quite simple with DecoderPro.
  22. It's in the manual on page 56 but it uses indexed CV's. To be honest the real problem with the manual is the language used! I tried searching the web before about this but to be honest nobody seems to have gotten their head around it and they all just suggest buying a Lokprogrammer! Anyway, here's a screen capture from the Lokprogrammer software, the left box lists all the slots for the 071 file.
  23. I have to agree! That's why I move notching to keys 4and 5. It's a breeze with the Lokprogrammer but to do it with CV's you need to know which soundslot controls each sound. If you like I can give you a list of the soundslots, but you'll have to consult the manual for the actual remapping process.
  24. Sorry Mods, can you move this to DCC section, I posted it in the wrong place!
  25. Lads, Here's a couple of short videos of a couple of Loksound decoders that I managed to get reprogrammed over the weekend. Using the ESU Lokprogrammer I've programmed the decoders so that all 3 of my 141's have different sounding engines. I programmed 161 using a sound file with a different version of the 567 engine. (These can all be downloaded from the ESU website). This engine sounds like it might need a service! 182 has the 645 engine sound... I think Health and Safety might have a word with that CIE employee hanging out of 182!
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