DiveController

Nice shots, bufferstop! Enjoyed those:tumbsup:

Hi Everyone, I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a resource to help me with this. I have googled online and searched on the site without finding an article that will help (there may be one, I just didn't find it) The lights on my 161sa began to flicker at certain points on my simple test oval. I attributed this to needing a good clean. A day or two later I have no lights on Cab 1 end with the usual single red marker operating correctly on the rear and all red and white lights, illuminating correctly when driving Cab 2. I have taken the 'brave' step of removing Cab1 and the remaining body to expose the PCB and cabs. It appears that light is transmitted to the headlight using a fibre optic/prism from a source below the cab and I am not sure if there is a separate source for the marker lights as they can operate independently under DCC. Could someone advise on whether they think this a a blown bulb, loose wire or something else. There is no Irish outline model shop nearby, the nearest model shop is 35-40 miles away and I don't mind attempting the fix unless it is overly complicated. Thanks in advance Kevin

Pure class Roxy. Many thanks to Austin. With a bit of editing of the industrial area that could be a promotional video for Ireland! That steam didn't half scare the life out of that pony, though!

I wonder if mrsmakem and gostude are actually the same person based on the similarities in pricing and optimism?

Put it up if you don't mind. No moderator has advised against. It seems you have forum support and in the absence of any illegality now I think you're good to go. We're into personal enjoyment too!

Perfect! Just what I needed!

Often wondered about signs on the railway in general (mostly those intended for the engineer, rather than 'Mind the Gap'). Is there any resource available where I might find a glossary of the common ones?

Yes, I assumed none had been produced in some time, although if you need anything you'll be looking for spares now

"no, I don't think you understand, Father. SHE was robbed, they stole her!"

What did he mean by 'support', lack of any spares to maintain serviceability, and why would it be for split chassis only?

That's probably worthy of a sticky for reference

Yes, sorry, I meant liveried by the Lima as opposed to a post-retail respray …. and HO! Thank heavens, things have come a long way since these efforts at Irish outline

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/content.php/251-62-9-Container-Flat-Wagon-Drawings Anyone know when these were used and what for? Most of the wagons on the site seem to be 42'9 or shorter... Thanks in advance

…resprayed into Irish livery but not prototypical. I think the only BR Mk1 were GSVs?

I was just browsing back over Dave's thread and came accross this coach that we had discussed before. This is not a Park Royal and I don't think it is a Bredin either. Anyone know if this is prototypical of anything Irish?

Hmmmm. ….. I'm on the dark side, I think. I see these on my way to work but have no interest in American outline. They are growing on me a little ….. Nice looking machine when pristine

The thread was hard to find for me too. Let's hope someone has photos of it!

One wonders how may years it would take to recoup the cost of re-engining the 071s based on the potential fuel saved. While I am in favor of a 'greener' planet and efficiency, the cost of producing or replacing items with 'more efficient' items frequently (if ever) compares the cost (or the carbon footprint) of physically PRODUCING these replacement items before the life of the existing item is complete. Usually the cost comparison involves the cost of the newer PRODUCED item versus the item to be replaced only. It is well known that when you buy a new fuel efficient Prius for example that it takes about 7 years to recoup the additional cost to purchase in terms of fuel saved (and that does not take into account the carbon footprint of producing the batteries etc to produce this 'efficiency') Now, try convincing those at IE "if it's not broken, don't 'fix' it"………..

IT, I like the idea of drop-in and play rather than having to shave bits off speakers or the loco body. I wonder how it compares to the bass reflex speakers that members seem to speak highly of? Anyone happen to have compared these two speakers?

Exactly! It's the Irish way and good luck to him for doing it. I was just having the craic earlier

Oh, Lordy! Understand your comment now, yes a steal at £208!

You didn't state which locomotive but Bachmann/Murphy locomotives such as the 141/181s require running in without a load at a moderate speed for about an hour in each direction (2 hours running) per the instruction sheet that comes with the model. Moderate speed is probably open to interpretation but I usually run mine in at 55-60% power of a standard 16V basic controller (based on nothing other than my own judgement). This allow the gear train to 'bed in'. For any given power setting, if you time a lap of an oval or any distance you will notice that the locomotive is 'lapping' more quickly after 30 minutes or so than when you put it on. It is also not recommended (per that manufacturer) to chip the loco until it has been run in. I suspect it doesn't do anything good for the decoder (although it may not damage it) and any CVs that you set such as momentum, top speed etc may all change as the running characteristics of the motor it controls changes. No harm to have another (similar) loco run on the same track first to assess performance. Still check track connections, clean wheels and track and all the usual stuff. Worth checking the whell alignment, running gear etc esp. if a steam to check nothing is rubbing/impinging

I was watching this item on the off chance a bargain would go by (but was reluctant to buy as it has no warranty and is purchased sight unseen, eBay 'protection' or not). Layout unbuilt so no rush either way.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391152625135?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I cannot believe that someone would pay E511 when it's used, unboxed and without any warranty when they're no more than E589 brand spanking new!

For sure, Paul. I have to buy a lot in Sterling and am always surprised that it looks quite a bit more expensive when converted back into 'real money'. Perceptions.. once you agree to buy and have your wallet out, it's harder to put the item back on the shelf