DiveController

Please PM me if you have one of these boxes that you no longer need. Thank you, Kevin

Likely it could. It would be a great resource as long as members take care to ensure the accuracy of additions or amendments to it

Posting a few photos to show what's under the cab which is pretty straightforward The photo are for newbies and if you've decoded a fleet of locos and have an engineering degree in model locomotive design please don't waste you time reading on….. Body removed from chassis (in two parts) and slotted vertically back into each other On the chassis from left to right (Cab 1 on left towards Cab 2 'at back') Instrumentation panel and driver's seat, cab back wall abutting the printed circuit board (PCB), blank 21 pin decoder sitting atop the PCB, light switches on blue plastic housing to switch on/off lights on front or rear of loco when running on DC (when running in consist, for example), ovoid housing for speaker when sound decoder is fitted on top of some wiring to Cab 2 NOTE ON Manual LIGHT switching: Switch 1 turns on or/off all lights on 'Cab 2' and switch '2' operates the lights on 'cab 1', (which seems counter-intuitive). If turned off, the headlight and marker lights on the appropriate end are turned off when traveling in that direction and the red marker light on that end does not illuminate when the traveling on the opposite direction. Removing the cab detail (engineer's instrumentation, seating etc.) is simple and involves removing two screws on top of the right and left sides (behind the white wire and to the right of the red) This exposes a double prism which is slotted into place and reflects light from the LED upwards and then forwards as the headlight (the LED is located at a lower level than the headlight itself, as the engineers cab is directly behind the headlight) The observant reader will have observed that the white wire is disconnected in this case and is the source of the problem here. I was not certain that the MM141s had LEDs (which they do) as opposed to bulbs and hence the likelihood of an LED failing is far less than that of an incandescent (Thanks, IT) I guess the purchase of a small wire stripper is now in order, not to mention a small soldering iron. I am still not certain where the wire needs to be soldered exactly or whether I need to remove the bogie to do that …. ( I believe that the motor is incorporated into the bogie under cab 2 (rear wheel drive!, the only way to go:D)

Hi Noel, Sorry, should have said the loco was running on DC only although this is a good chance to chip her now she's open if I can resolve the white lights issue. I think some of the decoders like Lenz Silver 21+ have the ability to set to the lights to several different preset sequences, on , off, flashing in or out of phase with other lights. Can't remember the CVs off the top of my head. Hope it;s not the PCB!

Nice shots, bufferstop! Enjoyed those:tumbsup:

Hi Everyone, I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a resource to help me with this. I have googled online and searched on the site without finding an article that will help (there may be one, I just didn't find it) The lights on my 161sa began to flicker at certain points on my simple test oval. I attributed this to needing a good clean. A day or two later I have no lights on Cab 1 end with the usual single red marker operating correctly on the rear and all red and white lights, illuminating correctly when driving Cab 2. I have taken the 'brave' step of removing Cab1 and the remaining body to expose the PCB and cabs. It appears that light is transmitted to the headlight using a fibre optic/prism from a source below the cab and I am not sure if there is a separate source for the marker lights as they can operate independently under DCC. Could someone advise on whether they think this a a blown bulb, loose wire or something else. There is no Irish outline model shop nearby, the nearest model shop is 35-40 miles away and I don't mind attempting the fix unless it is overly complicated. Thanks in advance Kevin

Pure class Roxy. Many thanks to Austin. With a bit of editing of the industrial area that could be a promotional video for Ireland! That steam didn't half scare the life out of that pony, though!

I wonder if mrsmakem and gostude are actually the same person based on the similarities in pricing and optimism?

Put it up if you don't mind. No moderator has advised against. It seems you have forum support and in the absence of any illegality now I think you're good to go. We're into personal enjoyment too!

Perfect! Just what I needed!

Often wondered about signs on the railway in general (mostly those intended for the engineer, rather than 'Mind the Gap'). Is there any resource available where I might find a glossary of the common ones?

Yes, I assumed none had been produced in some time, although if you need anything you'll be looking for spares now

"no, I don't think you understand, Father. SHE was robbed, they stole her!"

What did he mean by 'support', lack of any spares to maintain serviceability, and why would it be for split chassis only?

That's probably worthy of a sticky for reference

Yes, sorry, I meant liveried by the Lima as opposed to a post-retail respray …. and HO! Thank heavens, things have come a long way since these efforts at Irish outline

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/content.php/251-62-9-Container-Flat-Wagon-Drawings Anyone know when these were used and what for? Most of the wagons on the site seem to be 42'9 or shorter... Thanks in advance

…resprayed into Irish livery but not prototypical. I think the only BR Mk1 were GSVs?

I was just browsing back over Dave's thread and came accross this coach that we had discussed before. This is not a Park Royal and I don't think it is a Bredin either. Anyone know if this is prototypical of anything Irish?

Hmmmm. ….. I'm on the dark side, I think. I see these on my way to work but have no interest in American outline. They are growing on me a little ….. Nice looking machine when pristine

The thread was hard to find for me too. Let's hope someone has photos of it!

One wonders how may years it would take to recoup the cost of re-engining the 071s based on the potential fuel saved. While I am in favor of a 'greener' planet and efficiency, the cost of producing or replacing items with 'more efficient' items frequently (if ever) compares the cost (or the carbon footprint) of physically PRODUCING these replacement items before the life of the existing item is complete. Usually the cost comparison involves the cost of the newer PRODUCED item versus the item to be replaced only. It is well known that when you buy a new fuel efficient Prius for example that it takes about 7 years to recoup the additional cost to purchase in terms of fuel saved (and that does not take into account the carbon footprint of producing the batteries etc to produce this 'efficiency') Now, try convincing those at IE "if it's not broken, don't 'fix' it"………..

IT, I like the idea of drop-in and play rather than having to shave bits off speakers or the loco body. I wonder how it compares to the bass reflex speakers that members seem to speak highly of? Anyone happen to have compared these two speakers?

Exactly! It's the Irish way and good luck to him for doing it. I was just having the craic earlier