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Everything posted by Noel
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Can’t get DCC Murphy models to run with Guagemaster express.
Noel replied to Thom's question in Questions & Answers
When running on DC is that without the decoders installed (ie with only the DCC blanking plate plugged into the 21 pin decoder slot), or is that with the Murphy Model LokSound decoders plugged into the models? -
How to fit DCC decoder into MM 121 model loco 1. Access panel easily lifts off top of body 2. Plenty of space. Decoder fits under body panel in front of cab windows. Carefully remove the blanking plate - do not bend pins 3. Lighting wires under body top make it a tight fit, but gently push decoder in and it will get past the wires. LokSound V5 21 pin decoder 4. Lenz Silver+ non-sound decoder fits snugly and drives this loco very well. Cost €25 from Germany (eg Modelbahnshop lippe or Keiskemper)
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Speed step 1 yes that chassis and double flywheel motor is a super smooth runner right up there with the legendary MM 141/181 chassis if not even better. Incredible achievement to fit a precision chassis inside such a short narrow body and leave room for lights, PCB, sound decoder AND . . . AND open see through grills.
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Ah interesting. (light bulb) Basically regenerative braking like every EV. Dart has had that since the beginning. Its brilliant in a car cause going down a long steep hill you can load the car with regen braking instead of mechanical braking (ie wear and tear) or in a HGV coming down the hill through gears to limit speed.
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Agree. Drive hold allows one to easily simulate a heavy train starting off with associated notching and trashing, and slowly braking as it approaches a station. The V5 chipset also supports coasting but I'm not sure if anybody has implemented it. Its the one thing I really like about driving Mr Sound Guys Zimo projects, genuine coasting and prototypical braking. Drive hold allows LokSound to achieve the same prototypical driving.
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I used a wooden ice cream stick cut to width like a wooden screw driver and wedged one edge of it on the screw heads on the PCP that are just 2mm forward of the decoder and the other edge under the decoder, twisting to move the decoder up and away from the pins 1/2mm at a time alternating from one side to the other so as not to bend the pins by just lifting one side of the decoder. Yes its a tight fit. A plastic blade might also suffice or a 5mm flat screwdriver head, but if using a screw driver as a wedge, beside to rest it on the hard screw head and not the main PCB surface. Both the MM LokSound v5 decoder and a LokSound V5 project by WheelTappersDCCsounds
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Ah that's fascinating so he was there when it all started for the Irish model scene. You are building a very impressive and experienced team in IRM/AS. Making waves in the vast UK market that's for sure.
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Fascinating. The latest Murphy Model 121 loco can do this (ie separate the operation of the forward and rear marker lights) using DCC (ie LokSound V5). Sounds like you are having fun probing and exploring the world of DCC and microelectronics on locos. A pal of mine joined MERG https://www.merg.org.uk and built all manner of DIY DCC systems, controllers, cabs, accessory decoders, servo operated signals with bounce, etc. A whole new world of exploration. Have fun. Enjoy these posts. PS: Fair do's figuring out how to dismantle a 201
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Those 6 wheelers in flying snail green would look great behind OO works J15 in ‘the quiet man’ mode
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Hi Mike. Cheers, its 90% done using weathering powders in wet solution with a little airbrush for the bogies, under frame and valance plus buffer beam, a tiny bit on the cab roof and near exhaust as well. Noel
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A light bit of weathering done on B134 Love this livery and these superb Murphy Models Ready to depart Woodvale Junction Local goods train about to be marshalled into the yard.
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Started the process to weather this 121 this evening. Will finish up tomorrow. Took the walkway rails back off for access. Yes the prime mover (engine) and brake sounds work on DC as well as the marker lights.
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Essential part of Irish model history and pretty good for its time. Great to have them Gerry.
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That's a superb tutorial. Very well put together and a fab result with the wagons.
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CIE locomotive livery variations 1960-1990
Noel replied to jhb171achill's question in Questions & Answers
Just like I remember the lines out west as a youngster. Clickety clack jointed rail, bouncing stock. Mind you the Park Royals gave a better ride. Interesting 152 in super train livery had the IR points logo (ie during that hybrid CIE to IR long transition period). -
Didn't take long https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Murphy-Models-MM0121-OO-Gauge-Class-121-Bo-Bo-Diesel-loco-B121-CIE-grey/154097070645?hash=item23e0e6b235:g:uW4AAOSwejpfaJ~V
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Sure looks like it. Oh those wonderful mixed variety of loose coupled two axle wagons, the glory days of Irish railways.
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Oh yummy, that's a superb bus. Nostalgia Gold. Would love to have one or two of those old Denis double deckers. Brings me right back to the late 60s and 70s. Super Job.
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Almost daily, bit, byte, bob, gigabit, CV63=80
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The sound chip I'm using seems to have all the light functions working ok, shunting, train mode, parking, etc. The red marker lights were a little bright so turned the brightness down a bit. A minor thing but it would have been nice had the grey 121 marker lights been of a warm yellow hue, rather than the white blue hue (ie to simulate candescent lights of that era like the 071s). But that seems almost trivial.
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Look as consumers any of us have a right to express measured and factual disappointment with any companies products if we feel it is both fair-minded and warranted, and constructive. We are entitled to have opinions as long as they are expressed politely and it is even handed. I have had a number of minor issues with my two 121s, but chose not to expresss them on here for two reasons a) not to be negative on the very week these much awaited models had arrived and b) for risk of being flammed for pointing out anything. Overall these are really superb models and a little weathering may cure many personal tastes. I'm delighted to have them and didn't want to rain on the parade even with some minor truths. First world problems, but I do understand and am respectful of others opinions especially when moderately and fairly expressed. For me the glass is 105% full rather than the 110% I might have thought, just minor issues I managed to resolve which I won't go into. Its a nice problem to have. Been playing with B134 all morning shunting my heart out with the little beauty. Happy days. Hyper excited to get my hands on B127 and B124 when they are released.
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@IrishrailwaymanGerry is that the Signal box that has the working point levers that are servo driven (ie they move when the digital accessory is operated by the manual switch panel)?
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- passenger & goods traffic
- steam era
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That is a museum quality piece that should be on display at a national railway museum. Stunning model engineering, absolutely sublime build and exquisite finish.
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Just a suggestion DJ, but even without access to modellers or clubs, youtube can be a wonderful training resource and tool for ideas and inspiration. One could start by learning a few of the ways of weathering using just water and weathering powders, which is very forgiving and effectively allows one to easily 'rub out' mistakes or bits one is not happy with and start again. One can create very gentle washes using water and decalfix solution with just a few grains of weathering powder dust, brush or wipe the whole model, and then wipe off again. Decalfix, allows the wash to be reactivated with just water. No solvents needed. That will nicely dull the finish of any shiny bright coloured plastic. There is no need for an airbrush, that could come later. Some folks spray clear matt varnish over plastic bodies which give a better surface for weathering powders to bond to. But mask the windows or they will go milky white and opaque if exposed to varnish. Start with old wagons so one has the confidence before moving onto more precious rolling stock such as a craven or a loco, as time goes on, one can experiment with slightly more powder, allowing the wash to dry into recesses and panel lines, roof joints, etc, and the adventure continues and one becomes more adventurous each attempt. What's the worst that can happen, one wagon ends up looking grotty, but water based paints (acrylics) and weathering easily corrected and redone if a boo-boo is made.
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Superb result. I remember those and that livery so well. They were like air liners on wheels. So comfortable.