Alan's Workbench

[Tullygrainey]

1 hour ago, Patrick Davey said:

Definitely a riveting story if ever there was one Alan!

The successful outcome of this current project is not in doubt.

Thanks Patrick. We're definitely going by the scenic route.

[David Holman]

Strange isn't it, these things sent to bite us? Very much tempting providence, my own go to hasn't got such issues. Halfords red or grey primer, with either their matt black or gloss top coat. Going over sharp edges with both qun blue and permanent market pen before priming help reduce future issues of brass shining through. I rarely use varnish for transfers either...

 If I get over spray or orange peel effect, then a bit of work with T-Cut soon cures the problem - and being naturally impatient, I only leave 24 hours between coats. Asking for trouble? Probably, but it has served me well enough for 60 odd loco kits and scratchbuilds. 

 I have p!entry of my own issues (working on the theory that the final coat of paint covers a multitude of sins) and it seems very unfair that someone so skilful, organised and methodical should be plagued by paint.

 Nil bastardo carborundum Alan - or something like that!

[Tullygrainey]

1 hour ago, David Holman said:

Strange isn't it, these things sent to bite us? Very much tempting providence, my own go to hasn't got such issues. Halfords red or grey primer, with either their matt black or gloss top coat. Going over sharp edges with both qun blue and permanent market pen before priming help reduce future issues of brass shining through. I rarely use varnish for transfers either...

 If I get over spray or orange peel effect, then a bit of work with T-Cut soon cures the problem - and being naturally impatient, I only leave 24 hours between coats. Asking for trouble? Probably, but it has served me well enough for 60 odd loco kits and scratchbuilds. 

 I have p!entry of my own issues (working on the theory that the final coat of paint covers a multitude of sins) and it seems very unfair that someone so skilful, organised and methodical should be plagued by paint.

 Nil bastardo carborundum Alan - or something like that!

Thanks for this David. Much useful advice here. I'd never have thought of gun blue or marker pen to deal with that perennial problem of paint chipping or wearing off sharp metal edges. I seem to be forever touching in those little bits of glinting brass! I'll remember that one.

I'm more able now to take the setbacks in my stride than I might've been a few years back. It's not the end of the world, most things are fixable and I have a range of vocabulary for taking the edge off the frustration

[David Holman]

Am wondering if the simple fact that I stick to one manufacturer for paint is why I haven't had many problems? Fairly sure Halfords is all acrylic. 

 Do use Humbrol enamel for weathering, but am increasingly disappointed with the range and quality. Several of the co!ours advocated by Martyn Welch in his seminal Art of Weathering are no longer available and keep hoping that a revised edition might come out with some alternatives. That said, the cost of changing from Humbrol to say Tamiya would quickly add up!

[Tullygrainey]

 

9 hours ago, David Holman said:

Am wondering if the simple fact that I stick to one manufacturer for paint is why I haven't had many problems? Fairly sure Halfords is all acrylic. 

 Do use Humbrol enamel for weathering, but am increasingly disappointed with the range and quality. Several of the co!ours advocated by Martyn Welch in his seminal Art of Weathering are no longer available and keep hoping that a revised edition might come out with some alternatives. That said, the cost of changing from Humbrol to say Tamiya would quickly add up!

Agree David. Sticking to the same manufacturer makes sense and is probably the safest option. Mix and match can be uncharted territory, especially if it includes using both enamel and acrylic as well as different brands! Some of us court disaster. I'm learning from my mistakes, but very slowly

I tend towards enamels for weathering too. I find the longer drying time works to advantage, allowing more time to get the effects I want, such as when using the common technique of applying a thin wash and wiping most of it off to leave 'dirt' in the crevices and panel lines. I've had the odd disaster doing this with acrylics, when the paint dried before I could wipe it off properly, leaving a very patchy, totally unrealistic result. I know it can be done but I haven't cracked it yet.

[Mike 84C]

David, I'm 90% certain you are right about Halfords and acrylics. I have had some success with Games Workshop paints their Audubon Black in a rattle can is very good.

[gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

I use Railmatch enamels and Humbrol enamels with Johnsons Pledge to seal transfers and give a satin finish, and if I'm using rattle cans I have a selection of RAL numbered paints that I buy mixed from auto finishing suppliers with Halfords satin varnish. When using the Halfords varnish I use two light coats of B&Q PU floor varnish to seal over the transfers or they curl up due to the varnish attacking them. I wait two days for the floor varnish to dry so that it does not dissolve and then a light coat followed by a finish coat applied slightly more heavily.

The Halfords varnish gives a consistent finish and applies well however it cannot be used over enamel paints as it dissolves them crinkling them surface as paint stripper does other wise everything would get a coating

I have always found Humbrol dullcote comes out either flat matt or high gloss and very rarely satin as it ought to be sometimes fading from one to the other from one end of a model the the other however it is stirred, shaken etc. to the point I will not use the stuff at all.

Railmatch paints always give consistent satin finish, it is that there has to be a gloss coat for transfers that the top coat of varnish very rarely give consistent finish afterwards that causes me a lot of trouble.

I have to say inconsistencies in paint drive me bonkers. I'm definitely a builder and not a painter from that point of view.

Gibbo.

[Tullygrainey]

The patient has made a recovery. The builder is feeling a bit better too.  Plenty of time between stages to evade disaster and a better result with the airbrush this time. Paint was too thick before and the air pressure maybe a bit high at 15psi? 12psi used this time with paint like melted ice-cream. Rivets courtesy Railtec and lining from Fox Transfers. Phew.

 

[Galteemore]

Patience is a virtue clearly ! Well done Alan. It’s really frustrating when you have been through the arduous climb that is a metal scratch or kit build, only to have the prize of the nicely lined and painted end product snatched away! This is turning out beautifully now.

[Horsetan]

On 31/7/2024 at 10:46 PM, David Holman said:

...Several of the co!ours advocated by Martyn Welch in his seminal Art of Weathering are no longer available and keep hoping that a revised edition might come out with some alternatives.....

None of the Wild Swan modelling books has ever been revised as such.

[Galteemore]

19 minutes ago, Horsetan said:

 

 

On 31/7/2024 at 10:46 PM, David Holman said:

Am wondering if the simple fact that I stick to one manufacturer for paint is why I haven't had many problems? Fairly sure Halfords is all acrylic. 

 Do use Humbrol enamel for weathering, but am increasingly disappointed with the range and quality. Several of the co!ours advocated by Martyn Welch in his seminal Art of Weathering are no longer available and keep hoping that a revised edition might come out with some alternatives. That said, the cost of changing from Humbrol to say Tamiya would quickly add up!

Yes, I think Tarmac is now quite elusive. Thankfully the general range of Humbrol enamels is more widely available again after last year’s lacuna.

[Tullygrainey]

Finally settled on a number for the BCDR 2-4-2T. No.7 was delivered from Beyer Peacock in 1896 and lasted until 1949. Number plates made from brass with Railtec transfers.

 

Some weathering of the chassis before it got a DCC Concepts chip and stay-alive. This all fits in the boiler, leaving plenty of room for lead in the tanks and cab.

 

Crew getting to know their new charge.

 

And we have movement,  though what a passenger working is doing at a commercial harbour, I've no idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Galteemore]

Wow that’s fabulous Alan! Must be working the famous Copeland Islands boat train! 

[Patrick Davey]

Definitely your best yet Alan - lined to perfection!

[MD220]

That is exquisite. Mind blown!

[David Holman]

Lovely job - pretty engine & very fine model.

[jhb171achill]

2 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

And we have movement,  though what a passenger working is doing at a commercial harbour, I've no idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's the IRRS special of 2nd August 1949, covering Ardglass and Ballynahinch.......and the Copeland Islands (Steam) Car Ferry.......

[jhb171achill]

[Killian Keane]

A absolute work of art Alan, another tour de force

[Tullygrainey]

Had the great pleasure this week of letting some of my County Down locos loose at Kirley Junction, Kieran Lagan's wonderful and extensive layout. They're normally constrained within Loughan Quay's 6ft by 2ft universe so it was great to see them stretch out a bit. There were a few glitches with renegade couplings and buffer lock, which is why none are pulling more than one item, but all in all they behaved themselves. If you watch closely, you'll also catch a glimpse of Kieran's Baltic tank steaming through. A very enjoyable afternoon. Thank you Kieran.

 

 

[Tullygrainey]

Most of my modelling recently has been on a proposed BCDR country station layout but the loco-building gene is agitating again.  A nice shiny sheet of 15 thou nickel silver has been calling to me from the drawer and a photo of a certain BCDR locomotive has been quietly whispering “build me, build me”. This one....

Image: Copyright, Ernie's Railway Archive

Belfast and County Down Railways 2-4-0 tender loco “The Famous Number 6” was delivered by Beyer Peacock in 1894. Reportedly the fastest engine on the BCDR, it outlived the railway it was built for, finally being scrapped in 1956 after a long and varied career, significant re-building and, apparently, a recorded mileage of 1,545,510. (Source: D. Coakham)

As a modelling project, No.6 has now elbowed its way centre stage after lurking in the wings for a while. I’ve been avoiding it for good reasons. I can see a number of problems which I may or may not be able to solve but I suppose the best way to find out is to give it a go. The gene is very insistent.

As usual, the starting point is a set of coupling rods which can then be used as jigs to mark axle positions on the chassis frames. An LNER etch from Alan Gibson fitted the bill, being the correct wheelbase (28mm) for this engine.

 

Two blanks of 15 thou nickel silver are tack-soldered together and pilot holes (1mm) are drilled for axle positions.

 

It can be tricky to get models with 2-4-0 or 4-4-0 wheel configurations to run well. There’s a tendency to tip forward and lose traction. Using the weight of the tender to exert downwards pressure on the loco’s driving wheels is one solution.

Having read up and also consulted more experienced loco builders (thank you Tony), another solution is to treat a 2-4-0 as an 0-6-0 which is how I’ve approached this one.  The rear driving axle, with gearbox attached, will run in fixed bearings. The front driving axle and the front carrying axle will run in hornblocks with a compensating beam between them.

 

Pivot point for the compensation beam being drilled in the frame blanks. The beam is cranked to accommodate two axles at different levels in the frames whilst keeping the chassis level.

 

Frames shaped as a pair, then separated and erected into a chassis. Comet spacers from Wizard Models. The rectangular cutouts are for the hornblocks.

 

More soon, Alan

 

[Mol_PMB]

Lovely work! I look forward to seeing this develop.

[Galteemore]

So glad you have taken this one on Alan. Absolutely iconic loco. Know what you mean about those sheets of metal asking to be used:) Really looking forward to seeing how you bring no 6 to life. 

[Signal Post]

Will enjoy watching another of Alan's masterpieces take shape.

Edited Wednesday at 19:00 by Signal Post

[jhb171achill]

Wow! Another absolute masterpiece is conceived!

Looking forward to seeing this - very attractive design.

[Patrick Davey]

Possibly the most iconic loco of the BCDR!!!  Been waiting for this - looking forward to drooling over the progress Alan!

Edited Wednesday at 18:31 by Patrick Davey

[Tullygrainey]

Many thanks for the kind words everyone. No pressure then 

[Patrick Davey]

Alan I think you are just looking for distraction projects to take your mind off that fleet of BCDR Baltics that you have been dreaming of.......

[Gabhal Luimnigh]

Another masterclass from the best.

[jhb171achill]

3 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

 No pressure then 

Will it be live steam?

[David Holman]

Wondered how long it would be before the tender engine rose to the top of the list. Great choice and the foundations look splendid.

 Have built a couple of 2-4-0s (G2 and a GER E4) and the 0-6-0 method has worked pretty well. The main issue was ensuring the front pair of wheels don't stick, which has been an occasional problem on the G2. Thinking about it, they don't really need the pick ups I installed, as the tender is fitted with them, which is far more efficient. I get there in the end!

 Having built 2-4-2s and 0-6-4s, this one should be a piece of cake and will certainly be a beauty. Sounds like the civil engineer for the new layout needs to be consulted for the eventual introduction of a Baltic tank too...

[jhb171achill]

3 hours ago, David Holman said:

…..Sounds like the civil engineer for the new layout needs to be consulted for the eventual introduction of a Baltic tank too...

He told me he’s starting his therapy next week, once he can calm down the involuntary twitching and loud screams….!

[Tullygrainey]

Time to fit the hornblocks. These ones are from High Level - a pair of 1/8" Standards for the driving axle and 2mm SpaceSavers for the carrying axle.

The coupling rods earned their keep as jigs again, this time with the Poppy Woodtech chassis jig, to get the hornblocks for the front drivers into the right position. The holes in the rods were reamed out to be a tight fit on the ends of the jig axles (around 1mm diameter). The hornblocks for the front carrying axle have no rods to position them so they went in by eye using an axle as a guide.

 

Compensation beam in. Also some guard irons and brake hangers.

 

As always, a High Level gearbox and motor are the driving force. A RoadRunner Plus this time, 45:1 ratio. Unbeatable at this scale.

 

Wheels are from Alan Gibson. These can often be a very tight fit on the axle. Chamfering the hole at the back helps ease them on. Crankpins screw in from the back and cut their own thread as they go. Threadlock helps keep them in place.

 

Before the wheels went on, the chassis got a dusting of Halfords etch primer and a topcoat of Matt Black. My trusty GW Models wheel press took care of getting the wheels on straight and quartering them. Chassis sits level so the compensation beam is doing its job. Phew! 

 

Rods next. The holes need further reaming to fit the Gibson crankpin bushes.

 

... and we have the bones of a working chassis. Phew again!

 

 

Looking at the complexities of the running plate and superstructure, I think this might've been the easy bit. Much metal-bashing and blistered fingers in prospect.

Alan

[Galteemore]

Lovely work as ever Alan. Always a moment of trepidation when you see if the chassis will roll, but this looks very good. I do empathise with the curved running plate issue, having built an Inchicore version a few years ago. But if anyone can do this you can! 

[Tullygrainey]

55 minutes ago, Galteemore said:

Lovely work as ever Alan. Always a moment of trepidation when you see if the chassis will roll, but this looks very good. I do empathise with the curved running plate issue, having built an Inchicore version a few years ago. But if anyone can do this you can! 

Thank you David. It's a tricky little beast, this one which is of course why I've avoided it up till now. The running plate is on two levels and has curves in between to clear the crankpins. This also meant the frames had to have a step in the top edge, all of which made it harder to get the thing straight. Still, so far so good. Nothing ventured...