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Alan's Workbench

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Posted

More PPs. The boiler came ready rolled which was a real help. It just needed tightening up a bit on the rolling bars. Boiler bands can be a bit of a struggle to fit. Three cheers for fibreglass pencils to clean up the mess afterwards.

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The boiler needed quite a bit cut out of it to clear the motor, gearbox and wheels. The danger is always cutting too much away and leaving an unsightly gap somewhere so it's a time consuming exercise - boiler in, mark it up, boiler out, cut a bit, boiler back in again, fit the chassis, check for clearance, repeat until done.

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The smokebox has three layers and needed a lot of heat to get everything soldered up.  I had the temperature controlled iron turned up full and still it was struggling. 

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A trial run at Loughan Quay

 

 

Time for a tidy up, more fibreglass pencil and a scrub with scouring powder. 

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Posted (edited)

Wow that’s fabulous. I find guitar band clamps are great for holding boilers together whilst soldering. Know what you mean re cutting out / lots of careful measurements! Something mesmerising about watching those huge drivers !

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Edited by Galteemore
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Posted

Having never come across such things, had to Google them and discovered a weird and wonderful array of tools. Every day a school day!

 That said, will probably stick to soft iron garden wire to hold a boiler in shape for soldering.

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Posted
21 hours ago, Galteemore said:

Wow that’s fabulous. I find guitar band clamps are great for holding boilers together whilst soldering. Know what you mean re cutting out / lots of careful measurements! Something mesmerising about watching those huge drivers !

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Save a lot of fretting........

  • Funny 6
Posted

Me neither, David.  In fact, I'm not a fan of fitting brakes of any type. There's always the risk of brakes shorting on wheels, especially on compensated axles where the wheels are moving up and down and tilting so I tend to play safe and end up with a bigger gap between wheel and brake than I'd like.  In some of the scratchbuilds, I've used plastic brake gear from Gibsons which eliminates the risk of shorts but gluing these in place is never as secure as soldering metal ones. Swings and roundabouts🙄

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Posted
14 minutes ago, Killian Keane said:

It never ceases to amaze me Alan how you manage to churn out brass scratchbuilds of such quality in a matter of a few weeks, just incredible!

Thank you Killian, very much appreciated. However, much as I'd like to claim this one as a scratchbuild, it's a NorthStar kit for a change 😄

Posted (edited)

Thanks everyone. I have to say, I'm pleased with it. This NorthStar kit was well designed and went together without major trauma, though like many etched kits, there were the moments when three hands and asbestos fingers would've been helpful and the instructions sometimes leave you to your own devices. "Set up (chassis) frames in the preferred manner" makes sense if you've done it before but would leave a first-time builder at sea.

Incidentally, my clever clogs centring spring for the bogie (see post Nov 12 above) didn't work. It just succeeded in derailing it. I think the idea might be sound but the wire I used, 0.45mm diameter brass, was too hefty. I took it out, intending to replace it with 0.33mm but I found it ran ok without anything so that's how it is at present. The bogie is still likely to be a problem child. It has a small vertical coil spring exerting down pressure, the tension of which can be adjusted by tightening the nut holding the bogie in place. There's a fine line between getting enough tension to keep the bogie happy but not so much that the bogie starts propping the front coupled wheels off the track. More fun anticipated.

Alan

Edited by Tullygrainey
typo
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Posted

Excellent Alan. Know what you mean about spring. I had to fiddle around with an industrial sized spring, trimming it to length to ensure the loco was getting the right balance of forces. If only I’d kept on at physics after O levels….

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