Alan's Workbench

[Tullygrainey]

Thanks for this Leslie

[Tullygrainey]

A trial fitting together of the various Peckettbits, prior to me making a meal of trying to paint the thing (it's traditional). The dome is an Alan Gibson 4mm casting (4M616 Midland Railway) with some cosmetic surgery. The ex-brass wood screw chimney isn't attached since it's still Plan B.

[Galteemore]

That’s incredible. What a pretty little engine. 

[David Holman]

An absolute joy - the delights of 7mmNG personified!

Edited August 23, 2023 by David Holman

[Tullygrainey]

 A dusting of etch primer and a nasty outbreak of pimples? For such a small loco, Peckett has an awful lot of rivets. 3D transfers by Micromark, courtesy the 7mm Narrow Gauge Association.

[Tullygrainey]

Peckett has emerged from the paint shop at long last. There were a few hiccups with the job (of course there were) not to mention a colour change along the way but I think it's about finished.

It's had a little weathering to take the shine off it. It also has a cheap chip from Hatton's and some lead in the tanks so it shuffles along in a satisfying narrow-gaugey sort of way.  It will make an appearance at the O:16.5 narrow gauge stone yard in due course.

 

 

Meet Pete, the Peckett pilot. 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Tullygrainey

[Galteemore]

What a beautiful little engine. Really captures that dainty Peckett look. The platework has a nice patina about it. 

[Flying Snail]

A very nice engine indeed - it just oozes character!

[Gabhal Luimnigh]

That's a fine looking piece of work

[Murph]

WOW !!  What a little beauty 

[Tullygrainey]

Now that BCDR diesel electric No.2 is up and running, it really needs something more appropriate to haul than a couple of box vans so I'm hoping to have a go at modelling a typical passenger formation from the Ballynahinch branch where No.2 worked for so much of its life. To that end, I've acquired some Bill Bedford etches for BCDR Oldbury 6-wheelers (thank you Patrick)

No castings and, more to the point, no instructions so something of a Chinese puzzle on first sight.

 

However, sound advice and some very useful photographs from folk who know about these things (thank you Richard, thank you Kieran, thank you Colm) have pointed me in the right direction. A visit to the Downpatrick open day at the weekend also helped and Desmond Coakham's peerless work is, as always, an invaluable source of information.

So,  I've made a start on an Oldbury Brake Third.The fitters are confident there will be hardly any bits left over when the job's finished.

Knee-deep in door handles

Alan

 

[Dunluce Castle]

Looking forward to seeing this one progress Alan! 

[Galteemore]

Nice clean work thus far. How will you arrange the wheels in terms of movement - is centre axle sliding ? 

[David Holman]

Very Worsley Works - no instructions or fittings - but very much worth it. Who'd have thought etchings for something that obscure would be produced? They look good too.

[Horsetan]

34 minutes ago, David Holman said:

Very Worsley Works - no instructions or fittings - but very much worth it. Who'd have thought etchings for something that obscure would be produced? They look good too.

Bill Bedford was notorious for not providing any instructions for most of his etches during the time when he used to run an extensive catalogue. His principle was "IOI" (It's Obvious, Innit)....which was fine if you were dealing with a pair of coach sides, but anything more complex required you to be fully familiar with the prototype or you needed to be able to think like Bill in order to understand how the smaller bits fitted in....or you needed to be the original customer who had commissioned Bill to design the etch in the first place!

I have an etch for a pair of BR Class 25 bogies, which Bill used to produce. The main structure is understandable. The cosmetic parts are far from obvious!

[Tullygrainey]

 

Thanks everyone.

1 hour ago, Horsetan said:

Bill Bedford was notorious for not providing any instructions for most of his etches during the time when he used to run an extensive catalogue. His principle was "IOI" (It's Obvious, Innit)

The etches are excellent but there are still a few mystery bits on there!

 

2 hours ago, David Holman said:

Very Worsley Works - no instructions or fittings - but very much worth it. Who'd have thought etchings for something that obscure would be produced? They look good too.

The etches I'm using resided in Patrick Davey's future projects drawer for some time before migrating to mine. They're still available through Mousa Models and may come with some fittings - sprung buffers are mentioned - but not wheels. There's a choice of three variants, 6 Compartment 3rd, 5 Compartment 3rd and Brake 3rd, all Oldbury.

 

4 hours ago, Galteemore said:

Nice clean work thus far. How will you arrange the wheels in terms of movement - is centre axle sliding ? 

Ah, the wheels David... that's a bridge still to be crossed (not to mention curves negotiated). From the people I've talked to, it's clear there are lots of ways to tackle this, from grinding off the wheel flanges on the centre axle to replacing the centre axle with a length of 2mm tube sliding from side to side on a rod fixed between the bearings. I know there are also some good approaches to this in KMCE's workbench and I need to have another look at those too. The current range of 6-wheelers from Hattons use a clever sliding cradle for the centre axle which seems to work well but might be difficult to build from scratch. I'm still wrestling with door handles

 

[Flying Snail]

1 hour ago, Tullygrainey said:

The etches I'm using resided in Patrick Davey's future projects drawer for some time before migrating to mine. They're still available through Mousa Models and may come with some fittings - sprung buffers are mentioned - but not wheels. There's a choice of three variants, 6 Compartment 3rd, 5 Compartment 3rd and Brake 3rd, all Oldbury.

@BosKonay would Mousa Models be another candidate for manufacturer or shop? From looking at their site they also do sides (resin printed or etched brass) for some CIE/IR generator vans

Edit: ... and of course, Worsley Works as mentioned by @David Holman above

Edited September 13, 2023 by Flying Snail

[David Holman]

Page 7 of my David's Work bench shows the Alphagraphix solution to a 6w chassis, Alan. Simple, but quite elegant and has worked well on all my 6w coaches. Probably just another variation on the theme, but hopefully it might help.

[Tullygrainey]

10 hours ago, David Holman said:

Page 7 of my David's Work bench shows the Alphagraphix solution to a 6w chassis, Alan. Simple, but quite elegant and has worked well on all my 6w coaches. Probably just another variation on the theme, but hopefully it might help.

Thanks for this David. All grist to the mill. I'm assuming the 2 longitudinal rods running through the 3 separate bits are there to align them, whilst allowing for different wheelbases? 

As an aside, leafing through your workbench entries I'm reminded just how much valuable information and insight is tucked away in this forum's back-pages. Finding what you need is the tricky bit! 

Cheers, Alan

[Galteemore]

I also use Roger’s chassis and that’s right. The wires are soldered solid at one end only. This allows both alignment and flex as necessary. Good little system. I even took it off one coach when scrapping it and it was robust enough to fit to a new build. The old coach incidentally, an MGWR mail van, was donated to an English modeller who turned it into a mess room! You can still see the mail bags through the window….

Edited September 14, 2023 by Galteemore

[Tullygrainey]

3 hours ago, Galteemore said:

I also use Roger’s chassis and that’s right. The wires are soldered solid at one end only. This allows both alignment and flex as necessary. 

 

That is a very clever arrangement!

[Metrovik]

Sorry to plague you with questions right off the bat, but as you seem to know what you're doing I was wondering if there's any advice you'd have for someone a bit less experienced. What are the essential tools? Again sorry to pester you right away.

[Tullygrainey]

3 hours ago, Metrovik said:

Sorry to plague you with questions right off the bat, but as you seem to know what you're doing I was wondering if there's any advice you'd have for someone a bit less experienced. What are the essential tools? Again sorry to pester you right away.

No need for apologies Metrovic. To my mind, one of the fundamental purposes of this forum is for us to learn from one another. I’ve certainly benefited from the collective expertise here.

It depends a lot on what you want to do but here are some of the things I’ve relied on when working in plastic, card and metal, modifying ready-to-run stuff, building kits and scratch building.

For marking and cutting:

Stanley Knife

Swann Morton scalpel handle and no.11 blades

Steel ruler(s)

Razor saw

Centre punch/scriber

 

For making holes:

Selection of twist drills in sizes 0.5mm, 0.7mm, 1mm, 1.5mm with some pin vices to hold them

Set of 6 cutting broaches, 0.6mm to 2.0mm

Set of 6 cutting broaches, 1.2 to 3.0mm

Cutting broach 4.0mm

All of these for making holes and progressively enlarging them. The broaches make sure the holes stay round and where you want them.

 

For shaping and fettling:

Small pliers - needle nose and flat jaw

Set of needle files - various profiles

Fine emery paper

 

For holding and assembling things:

Small bench vice (good ones are hard to come by in my experience), preferably with bench clamp and adjustable head.

Selection of small clamps (including hair clips and clothes pegs)

Selection of good quality tweezers

Set of small screwdrivers

 

For soldering:

Antex 25W soldering iron and stand

145 degree solder

Slater’s Phosphoric acid flux

Fibreglass pencil

 

For building etched kits and especially for scratch-building, I’ve also relied heavily the following:

Chassis jig (I use a Poppy Woodtech one)

GW Models wheel-quartering jig

Vertical bench drill (I have a Proxxon)

Antex temperature controlled soldering iron

Piercing saw and a selection of blades

 

I found that I built up this stock of tools very gradually, buying things as it became clear that I needed them for the job in hand. My bench drill only arrived when I started to scratch-build. It’s good advice to buy the best quality you can afford. Very cheap tools, as almost everyone has probably discovered, are nearly always a waste of money. I treated myself to a few proper Vallorbe Swiss needle files and haven’t regretted it.

I'm sure that as soon as I post this, I’ll think of more tools I can’t do without. I’m sure too that others will chip in here with their own lists. I hope so.

When all’s said and done, the item I’ve found the most useful is patience. It’s versatile, can be applied to any task and usually improves the outcome. I just wish I could find a reliable supplier. I keep running out.

Very best wishes for your modelling and if in doubt, post a question on this forum. It’s certain that someone will have the answer.

Cheers

Alan

 

[Metrovik]

Wow Alan, all I can say is thanks..........and where can I get brass for modelling? 

[Galteemore]

EBay can be good. Other suppliers include Metalsmith and Squires. About 15 thou thickness will do a lot of modelling needs. 

[Tullygrainey]

15 minutes ago, Metrovik said:

Wow Alan, all I can say is thanks..........and where can I get brass for modelling? 

To add to Galteemore's list:

Hobby Holidays

https://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/

A terrific selection of brass sheet, section, tubing and rod. Also tools and drill bits and, in my experience,  a really prompt service.  Recommended.

[David Holman]

Amen to the above, but would also add craft knives with snap off blades. It is only the tip which goes blunt, so the snap off gives a new, sharp one with minimum effort.

[Tullygrainey]

More BCDR Brake Third. Boy, this is tricky stuff!

The chassis is designed to be sprung with an arrangement of the wheel bearings similar to one I first came across on etched wagon chassis from Brassmasters. Pinpoint bearings are soldered into bearing carriers (which had to be reamed out first) and then a length of springy wire is threaded between 3 little fingers at the other end of each carrier and soldered in place. I'm not sure what sort of wire is intended for this but I've used 0.33mm brass because that's what I had. It seems to work ok. The carrier etches are really flimsy and distort very easily. 

 

For each wheel, the springy wire is fitted at each end into holes in small folded up tabs on the chassis so that the bearing carrier can move up and down in its guide. Soldering each wire at one end keeps it in place while still allowing it to flex. Trying to describe this in words makes it sound more complicated than it is but it's still a fiddle to do.

 

The superstructure is also taking shape. More fiddly stuff and solder everywhere but I've managed to keep most of it on the inside where, hopefully, it won't be seen. I can tell you in advance that this coach won't be having any internal lighting! 

Soldering sides to ends was difficult. There are fold up tabs at the corners of the sides but it's debatable whether they're a help or a hindrance. I ended up cutting some of them off.

 

I have no idea how the interior of this one is divided. Anyone?

Alan

 

Edited September 17, 2023 by Tullygrainey

[jhb171achill]

31 minutes ago, Tullygrainey said:

More BCDR Brake Third. Boy, this is tricky stuff!

The chassis is designed to be sprung with an arrangement of the wheel bearings similar to one I first came across on etched wagon chassis from Brassmasters. Pinpoint bearings are soldered into bearing carriers (which had to be reamed out first) and then a length of springy wire is threaded between 3 little fingers at the other end of each carrier and soldered in place. I'm not sure what sort of wire is intended for this but I've used 0.33mm brass because that's what I had. It seems to work ok. The carrier etches are really flimsy and distort very easily. 

 

For each wheel, the springy wire is fitted at each end into holes in small folded up tabs on the chassis so that the bearing carrier can move up and down in its guide. Soldering each wire at one end keeps it in place while still allowing it to flex. Trying to describe this in words makes it sound more complicated than it is but it's still a fiddle to do.

 

The superstructure is also taking shape. More fiddly stuff and solder everywhere but I've managed to keep most of it on the inside where, hopefully, it won't be seen. I can tell you in advance that this coach won't be having any internal lighting! 

Soldering sides to ends was difficult. There are fold up tabs at the corners of the sides but it's debatable whether they're a help or a hindrance. I ended up cutting some of them off.

 

I have no idea how the interior of this one is divided. Anyone?

Alan

 

Yes, as I explored one long-defunct one.

The woodwork of the interior was painted a brownish colour up to roof height, with ceiling in off-white. If it's a third, upholstery - such as it was - seems to have been a dark browny-red colour. if second - I could be wrong on tghis but I think it was dark blue or somethiong of that sort. First was a dark flowery pattern, with greens and black predominant. Third class compartments had a mstchboarded interior, and probably seconds the same. First may have had better panelling, not sure.

I doubt very much if the UTA ever re-upholstered any of them. The vast majority were scrapped some 18 months after gaining the privilege of UTA ownership. However, never say never; IF any were re-upholstered by the UTA, the cushions would have been dark green.

[Galteemore]

Wonderful. Looks well and should run well too - will float along on those springs. 

[Tullygrainey]

13 minutes ago, jhb171achill said:

Yes, as I explored one long-defunct one.

The woodwork of the interior was painted a brownish colour up to roof height, with ceiling in off-white. If it's a third, upholstery - such as it was - seems to have been a dark browny-red colour. if second - I could be wrong on tghis but I think it was dark blue or somethiong of that sort. First was a dark flowery pattern, with greens and black predominant. Third class compartments had a mstchboarded interior, and probably seconds the same. First may have had better panelling, not sure.

I doubt very much if the UTA ever re-upholstered any of them. The vast majority were scrapped some 18 months after gaining the privilege of UTA ownership. However, never say never; IF any were re-upholstered by the UTA, the cushions would have been dark green.

Thanks for this JB. Very useful. I like brownish and dark browny-red. It will help disguise the explosion in the solder factory which the interior currently resembles.

I've partitioned off the guard's compartment. Do you know how the rest of the interior was partitioned? Did each door give access to only one compartment or was it a more open arrangement?

[David Holman]

Don't let anyone say that building coaches is easy! Timewise, I reckon a coach can take as long as some locos. That suspension certainly looks dainty and as GM says, should run well too.

[jhb171achill]

4 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

Thanks for this JB. Very useful. I like brownish and dark browny-red. It will help disguise the explosion in the solder factory which the interior currently resembles.

I've partitioned off the guard's compartment. Do you know how the rest of the interior was partitioned? Did each door give access to only one compartment or was it a more open arrangement?

All of those coaches were full compartment, i.e. no walk through at all anywhere - full width matchboarded partitions, like the vast majority of 6 wheelers elsewhere also.

[Tullygrainey]

More BCDR coachwork. The Oldbury Brake 3rd has two full-length steps on each side. After some head-scratching, a period of confusion about which step was which and then a fair bit of faffing around, I managed to get them assembled.

I’m recording the process as much for my own benefit (I’ve got another one to do) as for anyone else who might be tackling one of these for the first time.

Each assembly has 6 struts to hold top and bottom steps parallel to one another. Each strut has 2 half etched lines for folding and there are half-etched pads on the undersides of the steps into which the struts are soldered.

 

I think it’s easiest to make up the step assemblies as separate units before attaching them to the chassis and also to solder them while still flat, before bending the struts, so…

Solder struts to the underside of the bottom step, half-etched line downwards…

 

Turn the whole thing over and solder the other ends to the underside of the top step, half-etched line upwards…

 

Fold the bottom step up through 90 degrees…

 

Then fold the top step down through 90 degrees…

 

et voila!

 

The whole caboodle attaches to the chassis by soldering the top step to 4 little tabs folded out from the sole bar.

 

There are four half-etched pads on the underside of the step to help locate it correctly.  However, on my set of etches, assuming I’ve understood the build process correctly, these half-etched pads are on the bottom step rather than the top, which would put the steps in the wrong place. This was what confused me in the first instance.

 

It doesn’t really matter - they’re not essential and no kit builder was harmed in the process but this bit of the build really challenged my capacity to visualise in three dimensions.

I haven't soldered the steps to the chassis yet because I still need to source appropriate axle boxes from somewhere.

 

Stepping out, but cautiously

Alan

 

PS Does anyone know what this is?

[Galteemore]

Lovely work Alan. Almost looks like 6 separate etches to be cut off….suggests to me some kind of strapping to be located near each wheel set - possibly on solebars? A  careful study of prototype pics may reveal the answer….sadly I’m nowhere near my Coakham books.

Edited September 20, 2023 by Galteemore