David's Workbench

[Galteemore]

Straight and level on the track is always good! Looking good with that bogie and rear truck detailing 

[David Holman]

Starting to look like an engine

 

 First job this time was to fit the motor and pickups. Normally make up the latter as I go along, but this time I actually thought about it first and soldered both the pickup and electrical wires on [2 different temperature solders], before gluing the copper clad to the frames. A frame spacer means the latter is split in two for each side, with a further piece on the frame spacer to take the electrical wires on their way to the motor. This part meant that when I got the polarity wrong [only 50-50, so why do I do it every time?], I didn't need to unsolder the wires from the motor terminals and risk damage. I've also used the wire runs to hold the motor in place, as seen below.

 The pick ups still need adjusting, but the chassis runs ok now under its own power.

 So, back to the bodywork. 

 No boiler is supplied as part of the etches, so it was a case of rolling my own. This is where a GW Models Rolling Machine comes in so useful. In the scrap box, I also found two brass discs of exactly the right size to use as inner formers for the boiler. Soldered some brass strip in the centre to take an 8ba bolt for lining the firebox end up with the cab front.

 Next was making the inner sides for the water tanks. Just rectangle of 15thou brass, though I added a couple of additional bits of brass to the inside faces to rest the tank tops on. A piece of round brass rod went in the inside front corners too, so these could be rounded like the outer corners. The tank tops won't be fitted until after I know how much lead will need adding to help adhesion.

 The latest piece to be done is the smokebox. This is a single fold up etch, plus the wrapper, which needs rolling to shape. Happily the latter is just a half circle with straight sides - so no nasty reverse curves to form. Soldered up, it proved to be slightly bigger than the boiler, but by adding a wrapper to the end of the boiler [one millimetre longer than the smokebox, so it protrudes slightly, it works out pretty well.

 Nothing is fixed in place yet, but the main superstructure is shaping up. A long way to go yet though, with the firebox and cab details, coal bunker and a host of other details including all the boiler fittings too.

[Tullygrainey]

Lovely lovely!

[David Holman]

 Pretty much used up all the etches this week, so everything else on the loco is now scrapbox or scratch building. There were two small square etches that I had no idea about until I finally came across a picture of No 10's bunker and there they were.

 Other etches make up the firebox, sandboxes and cab steps, while the bunker extension etch includes some neat  points for using the rivet press.

 Inspired by Galteemore's  recent post on the PP's cab, I spent a mostly happy morning today, cobbling together bits and pieces for the firebox and other controls. Nothing fancy, as only a representation is needed, given that it will be a pretty enclosed space, especially once the crew and roof are in place.

 I found a few useful castings in the scrap box, while a brass washer was used to make one of the gauges. Copper wire from multi strand cable makes the pipework, while a cut down point lever suffices as the reversing lever. Looking through photos, it appears that Swilly locos were right hand drive, with lever, rather than screw reverse, though am happy to stand corrected.

 The list of details runs to at least 30 odd items, so lots still to do!

[Mol_PMB]

Superb! lovely work there. A bit of improvisation from bits in stock is always very rewarding, and the result is excellent.

[Galteemore]

Very tidy backhead David. Something rather lovely about glimpsing that worn copper and brass through the cab doorway. The firebox door looks like it could work ! 

Edited March 7 by Galteemore

[Paul 34F]

David,

There is a picture of the cab of the LLSR No. 12, the big 4-8-0, on the Irish Railway section of the transportsofdelights.smugmug.com website.

It might be of interest.

Paul

 

[David Holman]

Thanks Paul. Not a million miles away, but if I ever do a 4-8-0, there will be no excuses!

[David Holman]

 With no instructions to follow, the next things on the 'to do' list tend go go on a bit of a whim and therefore decided yesterday afternoon, it was time to get the lathe out and have a go at the main boiler fittings.

 I use the word lathe advisedly. Mine is about as small [and cheap] as they come, but have so far managed to produce three sets of chimneys & domes, plus several buffers; however high tech it ain't, while I am very much self taught.

  A useful tool that came with the lathe is this plastic gizmo, which is helpful in find the centre of the brass rod, then a hole is drilled to take the pin at the tail end, with the other clamped in what I think is called the headstock. As well back and forth/in and out wheels to move the cutting tool, screw plates at the back of the lathe allow a degree of movement to accommodate larger pieces, up to about 15cm in length.

 It goes without saying that personal safety is a prime consideration - especially for someone a bit cavalier like me. So, safety goggles are a must, as well as making sure the metal rod is firmly secured in the lathe, with none of the tools still attached either. I've come close to forgetting a couple of times...

 Anyway, turning a piece of solid brass into a dome or chimney is, for me, pretty much trial and error. The key tool is a vernier gauge, to transfer measurements from the drawing and then basic logic to decide which sections need doing first, though clearly you start at the outside and work inwards.

 I've got a small selection of cutting tools, but also find files very useful. Otherwise, it is a case of taking my time. The lathe motor isn't very powerful, so you can't remove much metal in each pass - probably no more than a 0.25mm, but after an hour or so of passing to and fro, the shape I want gradually emerges.

 Once satisfied, the piece comes out of the lathe and it is cut from the original rod with a hacksaw [in a vice], after which comes the somewhat taxing job of filing the base so chimney/dome sit nicely on the boiler. The top of the chimney needs drilling out, of course, done in the usual way be starting with a small drill and gradually using larger ones to achieve the right sized hole.

 Chimney and dome can be seen below, perched on the loco, but [as with everything else], not yet fixed. That will be the next stage!

[Galteemore]

Delightful. And modest too. That chimney’s a fairly complex shape ! 

[jhb171achill]

WOW!!!!

[David Holman]

 Been adding all the details this week - quite a lot, though the Kerr Stuart is fairly simple in outline. Various components included:

 Chimney, dome, safety valves and whistle

 Various footplate fittings, such as sand & tool boxes, jack and vacuum pipes, plus the tank filler caps

 Tank tops [after filling the tanks with lead sheet] and cab roof.

Then on the chassis, brake rigging and springs. The 5 thou phosphor bronze strip above the spring hangers was used to make the boiler bands.

 Once added, it was then a case of a thorough clean/sand/file/scrape to remove excess solder, flux etc. The model is therefore now ready for the paint shop, so the pictures below are the last ones of it in its bare metal state.

 Still awaiting some short handrail knobs & builders plates. While most fittings are fixed in place, the cab roof, firebox and boiler are still loose to aid the painting process. However, some basic running has taken place & [fingers crossed] the model seems to run nice and smoothly.

 

[Patrick Davey]

I think that this magnificent locomotive is your finest creation yet David - it's in a league of its own.  Truly exceptional.

[Mol_PMB]

Oh, now that's looking superb! The model really captures the style of the prototype, and those little details have brought it to life. Superb craftsmanship - very neatly done. I look forward to seeing it painted.

[Galteemore]

That’s looking very tasty indeed!

[Tullygrainey]

Oh yes! One to be proud of David. It really looks the business.  I can appreciate how challenging it is to build outside frames and cranks so more power to your soldering iron. And that chimney and that dome are mini masterpieces. I’ve enjoyed watching it all take shape. 

[David Holman]

 Thanks folks!

 From what I've read, there was not much in the way of a standard paint scheme on the Swilly apart from the early days. Even within the same class, there were variations. For example, the Barclay 4-6-0Ts were black, but lining and lettering seemed to be different on each one.

 There were only two Kerr Stuart's and No9 didn't last that long, so mine will be No10. This was reported to be unlined dark green by my chosen period of the late 1940s, with red coupling rods and buffer beams. The green is VERY dark in the few colour pictures available - almost black after multiple goings over with the proverbial oily rag. However, looking at other pictures, I could be persuaded that there was yellow lining on the tanks, while the LLLS lozenge could be there too.

 I've got a dark green rattle can, which may be ok with some weathering on top, but any thoughts are welcome.

[Galteemore]

At seventy years plus distance, you’re unlikely to get challenged on this one David! Seems like an ideal chance to let people see that deep rich lined Swilly green. Gets my vote anyway. And that delightfully elegant loco deserves it!

[Mol_PMB]

45 minutes ago, David Holman said:

 Thanks folks!

 From what I've read, there was not much in the way of a standard paint scheme on the Swilly apart from the early days. Even within the same class, there were variations. For example, the Barclay 4-6-0Ts were black, but lining and lettering seemed to be different on each one.

 There were only two Kerr Stuart's and No9 didn't last that long, so mine will be No10. This was reported to be unlined dark green by my chosen period of the late 1940s, with red coupling rods and buffer beams. The green is VERY dark in the few colour pictures available - almost black after multiple goings over with the proverbial oily rag. However, looking at other pictures, I could be persuaded that there was yellow lining on the tanks, while the LLLS lozenge could be there too.

 I've got a dark green rattle can, which may be ok with some weathering on top, but any thoughts are welcome.

I'd say this 1949 image is pretty definite on the tank side lining and lozenge, they are very clear:

RNC_LLSR_10_Buncrana_1949 | [Photographer: Robin N Clements]… | Flickr

Possibly lining on the boiler bands too? Not so clear:

DLGH_LLSR_10_Buncrana_08_Aug_1949 | [Photographer: David LG … | Flickr

Again, lining and lozenge on the sides, but no lining on the back of the bunker or cab:

The bufferbeams have a black edging and shaded numerals both ends.

[J-Mo Arts]

Note the (presumably) black edging to the bufferbeam too!

[David Holman]

 Well, the shiny nickel silver and brass has gone, replaced with Halfords rattle cans, starting with self etch primer [pale yellow], then red oxide primer and finally dark green gloss, as shown below.

 As so often with these things, the colour is a bit of a wing and a prayer, but was the darkest I could find. In some lights, it looks almost black, but the green comes through quite a bit more in others. No matter - I'm intending to make the final finish worn but well cleaned with some careful weathering.

  So what we have above is the primary phase of the gloss green, with lining, plus a first coat of red on the buffer beams and rods, and dark grey on the smokebox, footplate etc.

 The lining is from Fox Transfers [0.35mm yellow], while the Swilly lozenge uses the same for its outline with hand drawn logo using a fine dipping pen and acrylic paint. Lining and lettering took about 5 hours over two days and rates well down my list of favourite things to do.

 Very little is fixed in place yet, while the photos [for me at least], show why a model looks far too stark without at least some degree of weathering. It all needs toning down if it is to look realistic. Some of the lining still needs looking at too, but note how the shade of green varies between pictures

 Anyway, it's a start though it might be a while before the model is finished as attention now turns to Northport Quay, which is going to the Orpington Show in two weeks time. Always a nice occasion, but not the biggest. At the end of May, NPQ is going to Railex at Aylesbury as a late replacement for a layout which had to drop out. Galteemore David is going to join me on the Sunday, so there should be a fair variety of  broad gauge stock on show, maybe some GNRI too.

[Galteemore]

Wow ! What a treat. Absolutely wonderful looking loco!! 

[airfixfan]

Looks great

[jhb171achill]

1 hour ago, David Holman said:

 Well, the shiny nickel silver and brass has gone, replaced with Halfords rattle cans, starting with self etch primer [pale yellow], then red oxide primer and finally dark green gloss, as shown below.

 As so often with these things, the colour is a bit of a wing and a prayer, but was the darkest I could find. In some lights, it looks almost black, but the green comes through quite a bit more in others. No matter - I'm intending to make the final finish worn but well cleaned with some careful weathering.

  So what we have above is the primary phase of the gloss green, with lining, plus a first coat of red on the buffer beams and rods, and dark grey on the smokebox, footplate etc.

 The lining is from Fox Transfers [0.35mm yellow], while the Swilly lozenge uses the same for its outline with hand drawn logo using a fine dipping pen and acrylic paint. Lining and lettering took about 5 hours over two days and rates well down my list of favourite things to do.

 Very little is fixed in place yet, while the photos [for me at least], show why a model looks far too stark without at least some degree of weathering. It all needs toning down if it is to look realistic. Some of the lining still needs looking at too, but note how the shade of green varies between pictures

 Anyway, it's a start though it might be a while before the model is finished as attention now turns to Northport Quay, which is going to the Orpington Show in two weeks time. Always a nice occasion, but not the biggest. At the end of May, NPQ is going to Railex at Aylesbury as a late replacement for a layout which had to drop out. Galteemore David is going to join me on the Sunday, so there should be a fair variety of  broad gauge stock on show, maybe some GNRI too.

That colour is 100% authentic.  Even Cyril Fry's model in Malahide (unusually, but not uniquely) has a shade which is way, way too light.

An OUTSTANDINGLY excellent model in all respects.

 

[David Holman]

That is very good to know. Thanks JB, and indeed everyone.

[Tullygrainey]

4 hours ago, David Holman said:

 Well, the shiny nickel silver and brass has gone, replaced with Halfords rattle cans, starting with self etch primer [pale yellow], then red oxide primer and finally dark green gloss, as shown below.

 As so often with these things, the colour is a bit of a wing and a prayer, but was the darkest I could find. In some lights, it looks almost black, but the green comes through quite a bit more in others. No matter - I'm intending to make the final finish worn but well cleaned with some careful weathering.

  So what we have above is the primary phase of the gloss green, with lining, plus a first coat of red on the buffer beams and rods, and dark grey on the smokebox, footplate etc.

 The lining is from Fox Transfers [0.35mm yellow], while the Swilly lozenge uses the same for its outline with hand drawn logo using a fine dipping pen and acrylic paint. Lining and lettering took about 5 hours over two days and rates well down my list of favourite things to do.

 Very little is fixed in place yet, while the photos [for me at least], show why a model looks far too stark without at least some degree of weathering. It all needs toning down if it is to look realistic. Some of the lining still needs looking at too, but note how the shade of green varies between pictures

 Anyway, it's a start though it might be a while before the model is finished as attention now turns to Northport Quay, which is going to the Orpington Show in two weeks time. Always a nice occasion, but not the biggest. At the end of May, NPQ is going to Railex at Aylesbury as a late replacement for a layout which had to drop out. Galteemore David is going to join me on the Sunday, so there should be a fair variety of  broad gauge stock on show, maybe some GNRI too.

Now that is very fine indeed!

[Northroader]

A fine model, the outside frames make it really special. The lining is really neatly done. I fancy the green will disappear once it’s weathered, but that’s just how it was.

[Patrick Davey]

Am finding myself constantly returning to this thread at the moment, such a great project David, and exceptional modelling as usual!

Great to see a Swilly loco being modelled, not too many have ventured into the far north west of Ireland for their projects although Alan Gee's 'Burtonport' is a notable exception.

Very informative blog post here from Roger Farnworth, who always produces very readable material:

https://rogerfarnworth.com/2023/04/28/the-burtonport-extension-of-the-londonderry-lough-swilly-railway-part-1/

[David Holman]

Thanks Patrick - there's some fine stuff here. Did make it all the way to Burtonport once myself. Must have been an amazing journey back in the day.