New Layout Plans

[Dave]

If your soldering to the track the best method is use a Dremel and grind the underside of the track to be soldered, then tin the track and solder the wire on. This will ensure a good connection to the track. This is what a good soldered joint should look like.

[BabyGM]

What soldering issue are you having?

 

It's just that the smaller wire won't solder to the larger bus wire even though:

Both area's have been stripped of insulation, I'm using flux , and there is solder on the soldering iron

[BosKonay]

Lovely work Dave

 

I use a small file on the underside of the rail to rough it up, then tin it with a drop of solder.

 

I then apply the wire, also tinned and simply melt the solder on both wire and rail.

 

Two seconds then hold in place for three seconds and done.

 

You should get a lovely, clean , shiny join (it does take practice though, my first few attempts had to end up in the bin )

[BosKonay]

It's just that the smaller wire won't solder to the larger bus wire even though:

Both area's have been stripped of insulation, I'm using flux , and there is solder on the soldering iron

 

Make sure you tin both wires well first - heat the big wire and melt plenty of solder into it.

 

For joining bus to droppers, I use solder tags - like these

http://www.maplin.co.uk/solder-tags-29815

 

They are pre-tinned and make life a lot simpler for joining cables.

[BabyGM]

If your soldering to the track the best method is use a Dremel and grind the underside of the track to be soldered, then tin the track and solder the wire on. This will ensure a good connection to the track. This is what a good soldered joint should look like.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2215[/ATTACH]

 

Hi Dave

 

It's not that that I'm having a problem with, though it's probably better than my method of soldering the wire to the outside of the rail

[BabyGM]

Make sure you tin both wires well first - heat the big wire and melt plenty of solder into it.

 

For joining bus to droppers, I use solder tags - like these

http://www.maplin.co.uk/solder-tags-29815

 

They are pre-tinned and make life a lot simpler for joining cables.

 

 

 

Excellent

 

[Dave]

You shouldn't need flux when soldering cables together, most soldering jobs won't need it unless its big items to be soldered. The trick to soldering cables is plenty of heat to the joint, if you apply the solder to the cable and not the iron it should flow freely into the cables when its hot enough.

I'll do a video on it tomorrow if you like.

[BabyGM]

You shouldn't need flux when soldering cables together, most soldering jobs won't need it unless its big items to be soldered. The trick to soldering cables is plenty of heat to the joint, if you apply the solder to the cable and not the iron it should flow freely into the cables when its hot enough.

I'll do a video on it tomorrow if you like.

 

Awesome! I'll give another crack at it after Dun Laoghaire tomorrow

[Dave]

Any problems let me know.

[BabyGM]

Any problems let me know.

 

Thanks

[BabyGM]

Today I managed to get a train running on the layout after taking Dave and Boskonays advice

Hopefully I'll do the rest tomorrow and get a video out of it

And once thats done I can start on point motors !(sarcastic YAY!!)

I also got some ballast at the show today for the layout once the wiring is done and a decoder to wire to one of my Athearn SD9's as practice

[BosKonay]

Well done!!!

 

If you are running DCC, I'd highly recommend the cobalt digital motors!

[BabyGM]

Well done!!!

 

If you are running DCC, I'd highly recommend the cobalt digital motors!

 

Great I will look into prices

[Dave]

Where's the pics!!!!

[BabyGM]

 

 

 

http://s1096.photobucket.com/albums/g329/brianwalshmk3/?action=view&current=86F723FD-AF1B-454D-B09A-409EB7A9126B-1934-000002D25F50F10C.mp4

[BosKonay]

There's nothing as rewarding as seeing a loco powered up on track you've just laid

[Dave]

Looking good:tumbsup:

[RedRich]

There's nothing as rewarding as seeing a loco powered up on track you've just laid

 

You're spot on there Stephen. Baby GM's layout is really taking shape and looking good.

 

Rich,

[irishthump]

Great I will look into prices

 

Are you planning to operate the points via DCC as well?

[BabyGM]

Yep

[irishthump]

Yep

 

I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points.

I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout.

[BabyGM]

I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points.

I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout.

 

Oh:o, I thought you ment by a control panel so no I wont be operating points via DCC

[Flying Scotsman 4472]

I opted not to control my points from my DCC controller after some research on other forums, mine are run from a control panel with toggle switches. For one thing it's a lot cheaper and if the layout shuts down due to a short I still have control of the points.

I think Anto also has the same approach on his layout.

 

Yep have to agree its the best way

[Guest hidden-agenda]

Taking shape nicely Brian but for the love of god get a perspex barrier around the edge or you will suffer a hefty loss if you get a derailment.

[Sulzer201]

Have to agree strongly with hidden-agenda, the layout is looking fab with loads of potential but valuable rolling stock will have to be protected - curves and point-work close to edges and I know from bitter experience how easy and often derailments can occur with costly results. Great layout taking shape.

[Kirley]

Have to agree strongly with hidden-agenda, the layout is looking fab with loads of potential but valuable rolling stock will have to be protected - curves and point-work close to edges and I know from bitter experience how easy and often derailments can occur with costly results. Great layout taking shape.

 

O so true. While testing new track work, I had the sickening experience of seeing my Hunslet instead of going straight on, turning right on points and dropped to the level below. The front coupling and the buffer beam took most of the damage and while I was able to repair it the model will carry the scars. It has made me double check all points before test runs and will include safety edges as soon as the construction allows it.

[BosKonay]

I also have a banged up hornby 040 I use for testing - it's already carrying lots of battle wounds, and with the short wheel base its an ideal test loco

[Dave]

I use a cheap second hand Hornby class 08 for testing. Bought it on ebay for €20!

[BabyGM]

Thanks for the advice guys

On my old layout one of my 141's had a nice 228 scale feet of a drop onto the floor when it derailed

I won't be taking the chance this time

Edited August 22, 2012 by BabyGM

[BabyGM]

Also the latest arrival courtesy of GarfieldsGhost

 

[Garfield]

Also the latest arrival courtesy of GarfieldsGhost

 

Looking forward to watching your progress with it!

[Hunslet 102]

Great work on the layout BabyGM,the start of any layout is always a pain,but worth it in the end.It is always good to get a loco running on what you have been working on.Just to back up what the other guys have said,be careful with the track close to the baseboard edge as my hand once knocked a 3 car 80 class railcar set of the layout with dire results.

[BabyGM]

Thanks

[BabyGM]

Today I finally finished the first part of wiring and generally cleaned the layout

I also added a maintenance depot and RPSI south-eastern base

 

To the left is the maintenance depot and to the right is the RPSI south-eastern base

 

 

 

Much tidier than the photo a few pages back

 

[Broithe]

Do things run OK over that point at the right-hand side in the second picture? The one that sends the outer track over the crossing. It looks a little bit 'steppy' at the join in the baseboard, where the point meets the cross-over.

 

Maybe it's just the angle of the photo...