My 7mm scale 1950s workbench

[David Holman]

Nice one, not least because it has character - an indefinable quality that can sometimes be lacking in model buildings (kits especially), because they are almost too sharp or too square. 

 I rather like the upper storey rendering, as it looks very much like that on buildings on the Cavan and Leitrim extension to Arigna, while the shot through the door is just sublime. Are the corner stones a bit rough though? Pictures I have seem to show them 'well dressed', especially compared to the random stones in the rest of the walls. Equally, vernacular buildings nearly always used what was local (such materials are heavy and you don't want to move them far if you can help it), so if that finish fits the area, then it is right!

 Fine work, because there is artistry there, as well as modelling and the two, for my eyes at least, make a great combination.

[Galteemore]

Thanks David - I value your kind insights! The corner stones really are too rough. Think I’m on a learning curve with DAS clay... hopefully future buildings will be better! 

The upper story rendering is some lovely stuff from Vallejo called stucco paint. It’s a really creamy texture which dries like plaster with a suitably varied finish. A quick rub over with grey acrylic and weathering powders does the rest ..

[David Holman]

Interesting, am at Euroex in Birmingham this weekend (interesting concept for Fintonagh given the current political situation!), so will look out for that paint. Have a few Vallejo paints already and find them really good.

 As for the corner stones, a rub down with a file/sandpaper soon cures any rough surfaces, while a trim with a scalpel should sort out the corners. It is a lovely building and a small bit of tidying up really will ice the cake.

[Galteemore]

Thanks David - enjoy the show! I will endeavour to dress the stones a little....the stucco paint works beautifully over a card surface that is slightly distressed in places - eg a tear where a window has been badly inserted . What it does is merge that damage into the rest of the surface without entirely concealing it. So when you paint on the top coat you get the subtle undulations of a rural rendered building....

Edited September 27, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

Following Mr Holman’s helpful guidance, I have done some gentle reshaping of the corner stones which I hope are a bit crisper. I’ve also added a few poster boards in the style of the original Dromahair....

 

Edited October 1, 2019 by Galteemore

[PorkyP]

Outstanding.!

[David Holman]

Now that certainly gilds the lily and the extra external detail justs adds to the character and finish.

 Definitely one to be proud of!

[Galteemore]

Thanks David - I did employ many of your techniques, not least in fabricating windows! 

[Galteemore]

A huge leap in progress today - by tackling two jobs that I’d been avoiding....track and a working loco. Both fairly key elements in a model railway...

Permanent way first. The soldering is rather dodgy but that will get better. I made the mistake of using too large an iron and the joints are solid but not neat. Smaller iron next time.
 

Excuses over,  I give you...my first panel of 36.75mm track. One of the frustrations of not doing a sensible RTR project is that, well, nothing is RTR, so everything takes a bit of time to get things together. I’d put off doing track  due to a bit of a hassle experienced when cutting out the jig a few months ago. But I can’t put it off for ever. So I promised/threatened myself that as soon as the station building was done I’d start on the track. And it’s the standard SLNC 45’ length so at least I know that’s right!

And to cap it all off I managed to motorise my first ever Irish loco today....the prospect of fitting pickups etc rather spooked me but here’s this afternoon’s work - including a short video....

Edited October 6, 2019 by Galteemore

[David Holman]

Track looks right - because it is! Have just been experimenting with representing the fixing clips used in Ireland on FB rail. None on Arigna, so uprating on Belmullet would need about 3000 of them. The idea of drilling and fitting that number of Peco track pins doesn't bear thinking about. Hence am trying the following alternatives - 2mm lengths of 40x20 microstrip, blobs of canopy glue and blobs of acrylic paint. A combination of the last two is looking promising, so will report in a couple of days.

 As for the loco, no coupling rods, no valve gear - simples. As if! A fine job, especially as a first effort and really looks the part, sitting nicely on the track My own experience with single wheel drive is that it will need a fair bit of extra weight to pull anything, though am guessing the prototype didn't pull the cover off many rice puddings either...

[Galteemore]

Thanks David! Sounds like a good plan for the track. I’ve managed to get the loco to move but the front and rear wheels stick a bit - not sure how to sort that. But you will probably be pleased to see another 36.75 loco on the rails! Short vid enclosed....

Edited October 6, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

Also beginning to envisage building the layout now....

Edited October 6, 2019 by Galteemore

[David Holman]

1 hour ago, Galteemore said:

Thanks David! Sounds like a good plan for the track. I’ve managed to get the loco to move but the front and rear wheels stick a bit - not sure how to sort that. But you will probably be pleased to see another 36.75 loco on the rails! Short vid enclosed....

 

IMG_1171.MOV 16.47 MB · 1 download

Great fun. Seems to run well and that is half the battle.

[David Holman]

 You might need to open up the bearings a little on the non powered axles, so they spin freely. If a bit more weight doesn't solve the stickiness, consider opening the bearings even more on one axle, so they are oval, in the vertical plane. A millimetre or so will be enough. What you can do then is to have a price of wire, say 1mm nickel silver or brass, soldered to a chassis spacer and bent to bear down lightly on the centre of that axle. This will add a small amount of compensation, which should improve both running and pickup. 

 Not sure the other axle needs this treatment, as it might over complicate things. Also, even if it goes wrong, the worst thing you'll need to do is fit new bearings, but use this type of compensation on my Clogher Valley 0-4-2Ts and it makes a real difference.

[David Holman]

There we are, if Eoin likes it, it must be good - he knows more about such things than most.

[Galteemore]

Thanks David - I splashed out on a decent parallel broach so may try that on the bearings. I am very fortunate to work 5 minutes away from a professional loco builder who has agreed to look at it tomorrow. I know that this wheel arrangement can be problematic, and Richard Chown’s version of this loco was driven on the carrying axles rather than the single wheel.  Many of the key issues are already in place - the loco seems to pick up current from each wheel,  all the wheels touch the track, and the driving wheel turns quite happily at low speed. So I’m hoping only a little fettling is required...I do like that idea about the compensated axle.

Edited October 7, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

Thanks! And you’re right, if Eoin says that it must be right....

Edited October 7, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

On 10/7/2019 at 10:43 AM, David Holman said:

 You might need to open up the bearings a little on the non powered axles, so they spin freely. If a bit more weight doesn't solve the stickiness, consider opening the bearings even more on one axle, so they are oval, in the vertical plane. A millimetre or so will be enough. What you can do then is to have a price of wire, say 1mm nickel silver or brass, soldered to a chassis spacer and bent to bear down lightly on the centre of that axle. This will add a small amount of compensation, which should improve both running and pickup. 

 Not sure the other axle needs this treatment, as it might over complicate things. Also, even if it goes wrong, the worst thing you'll need to do is fit new bearings, but use this type of compensation on my Clogher Valley 0-4-2Ts and it makes a real difference.

Just a quick update. I tried a little fettling of the bearings and have taken some pressure off the pickups. I also gave her a cab floor made of lead! A small roll of lead has also been araldited inside the white metal boiler backhead. This gravity enhancement has helped a little and she seems a bit more responsive now. Just as well she’s only intended to handle a brace of 6 wheelers at most! And I know the rear buffer is missing - thankfully I know where it’s gone! 

Edited October 9, 2019 by Galteemore

[David Holman]

Another thought, check the balance of the loco - does it pivot on the centre axle? If not, you'll need to add more weight to the other end.

[Galteemore]

Thanks David - it does indeed pivot on that axle. The rear carrying axle is movable on a springy brass bracket meaning that small adjustments can change the downward pressure on the front axle.

[Galteemore]

I spoke too soon! Through repeated testing and adjusting since the chassis was built earlier this year, the bracket in question has weakened and tonight it snapped - you can just glimpse the bright metal to the right of the gear wheel. Too late to tackle tonight. But will strip the loco tomorrow and clean the joint area with a fibreglass pencil before soldering back together....I did also use the opportunity of having the loco upside down to stick more lead over the front axle so hopefully when all does go back together it will work better....thankfully I know at least one other builder - who is incredibly skilled and  can make such beasts as 8Fs from scratch - who has really struggled with this little kit! 

Edited October 9, 2019 by Galteemore

[murrayec]

Galteemoe

Single wheel drive chassis are notorious for bad running, it's one reason why a lot of modellers stay away from single wheelers!

In my view the key thing is to allow the chassis to pivot around the driver axle and have one of the other axle suspended (which seems to be the way your chassis is set up), the suspended axle can be done with this axle's bearings in vertical slots in the frames which are then allowed to move up and down, the bearings are held in place by a suspension spring fixed to the chassis and passed through a tube soldered to the top of the bearing! Kind of what David was suggesting above.....

I have a sketch which is not identical to your situation but if you study it and use the principle it should lead to a reasonable running chassis

Eoin

[Galteemore]

Thanks Eoin - that’s a very helpful illustration! Starting with a single wheeler probably wasn’t the most sensible choice for my first ever loco build but on the plus side I’m learning a lot. The rear axle slides as you suggest so I hope that some kind of spring arrangement as you describe will resolve the issue. Another plus is that I have actually seen the loco running - with all the wheels touching the track and taking power. So I know that it isn’t hopeless! 

Edited October 9, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

Titania went on the bench tonight for stripping down. Two axles off, motor and gearbox off. Reamed out the bearings with a 4.8mm parallel broach to ensure smoothest possible surface. Solder/repaired the spring and laminated a strip of brass on top to reinforce the joint.  Took off some sticky pickups and replaced with finer gauge p/b strip. Hopefully this will do the trick! 

Edited October 11, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

She’s back together. All the pickups are delivering power and the motor turns over. The only remaining problem is the single driver. The wheels are a press fit on the axles and one of them refuses to press home. So although the loco is on the rails and nicely balanced, only one wheel is actually doing any work. So the little beast just sits there with one wheel spinning. Loctite should sort it. She is already loaded with more lead than a Chicago gangster’s vocabulary so adhesion shouldn’t be a problem once both wheels turn!

[murrayec]

@Galteemore

Can I suggest you push the loose wheel on over a piece of tissue paper laid over the axle end to hold it fast until you are sure of good running before you use Loctite- just in case more adjustments are required....

Another thing I would do, though you may have done this, is to allow some more side movement in the axle with all the washers on in the photo above- the drive axle should be held with minimum side play but the other two should have a bit of play.

Eoin

Edited October 11, 2019 by murrayec

[Galteemore]

Thanks Eoin - I tried the tissue paper and it worked! Loco cruises up and down nicely - albeit with sparks flying off the pickups! I suspect the p/b strip is shorting off the chassis. I’ll possibly replace with wire ones....short vid attached. 

Many of the problems associated with this loco are down to a single factor - the decision to regauge after the chassis was built and squared off. I didn’t want to disrupt it by removing and refitting the bearings that I had solidly soldered in, so packed out the difference with washers, which I will now adjust. The main driving axle was more complex, being a tapered fit on a tapered axle - and Slaters don’t supply the tapered axle in 36.75....I got a friendly engineer to make a new axle and he did warn me that it would require a bit of permanent fixing in the final stage of construction. In retrospect I should probably have just built the loco to 32mm gauge and sold it! After all, Shakespeare’s Titania is a proud fairy who gets her comeuppance....
 

But for all her quirks, she is a genuine Irish loco, with that distinctive MGWR cab and smokebox door, so a fitting way to start as an Irish modeller. It has also been a very useful test bed for techniques I can use again. Let’s just say, though, that any future loco will have at least 2 driven -or certainly coupled - axles !  

Edited October 12, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

In the past, getting a layout running at all has satisfied me. Anything goes to get the trains moving...I even have a vague memory of coupling a train with paper clips....

But if I’m building my own track, my own locos and my own stock, perhaps it’s time to take the operation seriously too, taking the railway as a whole rather than simply the sum of various component parts. So I have thought much more about issues such as track plan in this project. More on that another time.

Previous experience operating my UK outline light railway at a show has told me that I really struggle with 3 links. Iain Rice’s book on Cameo Layouts inspired some wider thinking in this area and so tonight I tried making my first Lincs couplings - they are a bit like Dinghams but with greater tolerance of builder error. That’s the yoke for me! Anyway, here’s a quick vid of my first effort. As you’ll probably realise, uncoupling will be achieved by an under track magnet. The design isn’t not perfect, as the proprietor admits - there’s no pre uncoupling for instance. But it’s looking promising even if I have some fine tuning to do such as working on closing the buffer gap........the loco bracket is only a little long but the wagon bracket is like a giraffe’s neck in comparison with what it should be. Test and adjust...,,

Edited October 17, 2019 by Galteemore

[Galteemore]

Last March I went to an 0 gauge trade show and picked up quite a few Alphagraphix brass kits with the proceeds of selling my English outline stuff. Trying out new techniques in other media has meant that these kits remained untouched. 
I realised recently that I needed to get soldering again before I forgot how to do it! So tonight I started into another loco. Slow progress at first but the mainframes are up..,,

[David Holman]

A GNRI 2-4-2T? Nice prototype and what looks like a fairly simple chassis. Am guessing the leading and trailing wheels will require a fair bit of sideplay, though two coupled axles should be easier than three. A logical progression from a single, methinks!

 Have built several Alphagraphix Tyrconnel kits and though fairly basic, they seem to go together nicely, so will look forward to seeing progress.

[Galteemore]

Thanks David. She is a 2-4-2t indeed but a GSWR one - F6 class. That’s a helpful tip about the unpowered axles - thank you. This will be my first loco built to 36.75 from the start so looking forward to seeing her take shape.,,and I have a 6 coupled loco in the pile as a logical successor! 

Edited October 18, 2019 by Galteemore

[David Holman]

For the Irish scene, you will eventually be stymied once you get to a 2-10-0!

[Galteemore]

Lol! Sadly my headshunt won’t even allow me a tender let alone a Decapod! 

[Galteemore]

7 hours ago, David Holman said:

A GNRI 2-4-2T? Nice prototype and what looks like a fairly simple chassis. Am guessing the leading and trailing wheels will require a fair bit of sideplay, though two coupled axles should be easier than three. A logical progression from a single, methinks!

 Have built several Alphagraphix Tyrconnel kits and though fairly basic, they seem to go together nicely, so will look forward to seeing progress.

 

David - just a quick one on the axle issue. Reached that stage of build tonight and the trucks have ‘spring’  to allow a bit of movement along various axes....

Edited October 18, 2019 by Galteemore

[Mayner]

The little GSWR 2-4-2Ts are one of my favourite engines, if I wasn't in so deep in 4mm and the Midland I would be almost tempted to move up to 7mm scale and build a layout based on the West Cork or Kerry branch lines.

Tim Cramer did a great job in promoting Irish O Gauge modelling  and persuading Alphagraphix to introduce Irish locomotive kits.