David Holman

Have usually found that being creative is the antidote to the stresses of life Eoin. Worked particularly for me when I was doing 80-100 hour weeks as a primary headteacher. Yes, had the holidays in between, but found a few hours creativity in a busy week helped keep me sane. Always enjoy reading about your stuff, in particular the technical and practical approaches that I would just never think of.

What are you building these days Eoin?

Looks great to me, but then so did the previous picture... and to think I spent a whole day in the company of the real loco!

Love it, though am ashamed to say my own solution to cutting rectangular holes in things involves a slotting disc in as Dremel. Crude, but effective.

Witchcraft! Necromancy! Or just magic...

Always so satisfying to get to that stage!

Yep. Very best wishes John and hope things settle down for you all now.

Absolutely. In this age of seemingly almost everything available ready to run, it is great to hear of someone keen to expand their skills in making stuff.

The last two posts show the difference between what I would call a modelling approach and an engineering one. Clever stuff that we can all learn from. I think there is also the element of how often you are building locos. I probably average at most one of two a year and daft though it may seem, lose the mind set in the six months or so between finishing one project and starting the next. Anything cosmetic (bodywork, buildings, scenery etc) is less of a problem because it doesn't have to work, so am endlessly grateful to the likes of Eoin and John for all their practical advice.

As a long time 7mm scale modeller, have more recently had to turn to Gibson wheels for some of my 3' narrow gauge locos as the Slater's range didn't cover my needs. Have found Gibson's to be ok and their service is decent. However, the lack of automatic quartering is a pain, while the wheels are not happy if you have to take them on and off the axles more than a couple of times. I have also found that tyres can come loose from their rims. Both can be fixed with a touch of cyano, but overall they are not as robust as Slaters. Or maybe I am just too heavy handed?

5 minute epoxy for me on whitemetal.

Spoiling us again, Ernie!

Thanks folks! From what I've read, there was not much in the way of a standard paint scheme on the Swilly apart from the early days. Even within the same class, there were variations. For example, the Barclay 4-6-0Ts were black, but lining and lettering seemed to be different on each one. There were only two Kerr Stuart's and No9 didn't last that long, so mine will be No10. This was reported to be unlined dark green by my chosen period of the late 1940s, with red coupling rods and buffer beams. The green is VERY dark in the few colour pictures available - almost black after multiple goings over with the proverbial oily rag. However, looking at other pictures, I could be persuaded that there was yellow lining on the tanks, while the LLLS lozenge could be there too. I've got a dark green rattle can, which may be ok with some weathering on top, but any thoughts are welcome.

Amen to all the above! We are all still learning, but those early stages are important. Success breeds confidence which is why buildings and scenery are easier that wagons, which are easier than coaches and are best before tackling a working loco. Some locos are easier than others, with maybe an inside cylinder 0-4-0T the most straightforward. Add another pair of axles and things ramp up a bit as the capacity for rods to bind increases, but an 0-6-0T is still a worthy starter. In 7mm scale, Jim McGowan's Connoisseur kits are hard to beat, though an Alphagraphix MGWR J26 is a great starter too. The chassis is a one piece etch, where you solder in the bearings before folding up the sides and frame spacers. You can have a rolling chassis within an hour or so - very good for morale! Avoid being tempted by a favourite loco as a first attempt. Anything with bogie or pony wheels, outside cylinders, let alone outside frames (sounds familiar), is a nightmare waiting to happen. However, by starting simple, building up your skills and knowledge, there is a lifetime of satisfaction ahead. Whatever their imperfections, they are your models, not something plucked from a shelf and a coat of paint covers a multitude of sins.

1 New school scratchbuilding? Certainly very impressive. A model like this would be an absolute pig to build from sheet metal alone and while a 3D print might work, this is a more elegant solution, keeping all the fine edges, open louvres and so on. I wonder how the CAD/etch/assembly route compares to making everything by hand? Both are genuine skills that need to be learned and practiced, as well as the ability to visualise how to turn a 2D drawing into a 3D structure. Either way, technology opens up more options and if I was starting again, learning CAD would be right up there with metal work and electrics.

Been adding all the details this week - quite a lot, though the Kerr Stuart is fairly simple in outline. Various components included: Chimney, dome, safety valves and whistle Various footplate fittings, such as sand & tool boxes, jack and vacuum pipes, plus the tank filler caps Tank tops [after filling the tanks with lead sheet] and cab roof. Then on the chassis, brake rigging and springs. The 5 thou phosphor bronze strip above the spring hangers was used to make the boiler bands. Once added, it was then a case of a thorough clean/sand/file/scrape to remove excess solder, flux etc. The model is therefore now ready for the paint shop, so the pictures below are the last ones of it in its bare metal state. Still awaiting some short handrail knobs & builders plates. While most fittings are fixed in place, the cab roof, firebox and boiler are still loose to aid the painting process. However, some basic running has taken place & [fingers crossed] the model seems to run nice and smoothly.

No doubt one will be cheaper than the other and available sooner?

With no instructions to follow, the next things on the 'to do' list tend go go on a bit of a whim and therefore decided yesterday afternoon, it was time to get the lathe out and have a go at the main boiler fittings. I use the word lathe advisedly. Mine is about as small [and cheap] as they come, but have so far managed to produce three sets of chimneys & domes, plus several buffers; however high tech it ain't, while I am very much self taught. A useful tool that came with the lathe is this plastic gizmo, which is helpful in find the centre of the brass rod, then a hole is drilled to take the pin at the tail end, with the other clamped in what I think is called the headstock. As well back and forth/in and out wheels to move the cutting tool, screw plates at the back of the lathe allow a degree of movement to accommodate larger pieces, up to about 15cm in length. It goes without saying that personal safety is a prime consideration - especially for someone a bit cavalier like me. So, safety goggles are a must, as well as making sure the metal rod is firmly secured in the lathe, with none of the tools still attached either. I've come close to forgetting a couple of times... Anyway, turning a piece of solid brass into a dome or chimney is, for me, pretty much trial and error. The key tool is a vernier gauge, to transfer measurements from the drawing and then basic logic to decide which sections need doing first, though clearly you start at the outside and work inwards. I've got a small selection of cutting tools, but also find files very useful. Otherwise, it is a case of taking my time. The lathe motor isn't very powerful, so you can't remove much metal in each pass - probably no more than a 0.25mm, but after an hour or so of passing to and fro, the shape I want gradually emerges. Once satisfied, the piece comes out of the lathe and it is cut from the original rod with a hacksaw [in a vice], after which comes the somewhat taxing job of filing the base so chimney/dome sit nicely on the boiler. The top of the chimney needs drilling out, of course, done in the usual way be starting with a small drill and gradually using larger ones to achieve the right sized hole. Chimney and dome can be seen below, perched on the loco, but [as with everything else], not yet fixed. That will be the next stage!

I believe the correct term should be 'spring drive' - or something like that. I think 'clockwork' was seen as being toy like, whereas models like these are marvels of miniature engineering. Some of the spring drives were pretty powerful and driving them was akin to live steam in some ways, while such was the efficiency/predictability of the best mechanisms that you could be fairly optimistic that a set number of turns of the key would give you a specific length of run. Whether spring drive would work on the small, terminus-fiddle yard layouts of today is another matter. Will these wonderful models be visiting Enniskillen as some point? It is a great place for some photos!

My word, they look stunning! Give every impression they would be happy on fine scale track too. The bubble wrap needs to come off the S so it can be fired up immediately - though suspect it's a bit more complex than that... Was in a junk shop in Rye today, idly musing over some Hornby tinplate. Horribly crude, but not without charm. These models compare very well with the best that is available today. Looking forward to finding out more.

Thanks Paul. Not a million miles away, but if I ever do a 4-8-0, there will be no excuses!

Pretty much used up all the etches this week, so everything else on the loco is now scrapbox or scratch building. There were two small square etches that I had no idea about until I finally came across a picture of No 10's bunker and there they were. Other etches make up the firebox, sandboxes and cab steps, while the bunker extension etch includes some neat points for using the rivet press. Inspired by Galteemore's recent post on the PP's cab, I spent a mostly happy morning today, cobbling together bits and pieces for the firebox and other controls. Nothing fancy, as only a representation is needed, given that it will be a pretty enclosed space, especially once the crew and roof are in place. I found a few useful castings in the scrap box, while a brass washer was used to make one of the gauges. Copper wire from multi strand cable makes the pipework, while a cut down point lever suffices as the reversing lever. Looking through photos, it appears that Swilly locos were right hand drive, with lever, rather than screw reverse, though am happy to stand corrected. The list of details runs to at least 30 odd items, so lots still to do!

A not dissimilar experience last time my wife and I went over the pond, saw us arrive at Boston Logan Airport early, only to be held on the tarmac for nearly an hour & then when we finally made immigration, we had to wait another hour while they let all the US passport holders through first! And it was still another half hour before we got our bags...

Clever!

Very fiddly, but very worthwhile, especially on a tender engine. Handy reference for me because am starting to do the same job on my Swilly tank. Intrigued to know what you used for the gauge glasses? I usually cheat and paint square section brass a silver colour, but yours looks far more effective.