irishthump

I read all the posts in the "name change" thread but it was locked before I could comment. I can understand the point but I was mystified at the comments by certain long standing members which were basically putting the site down for no good reason. As for the post on RMWeb; I think that was a nasty and petty thing to do and the site is better off without them. Apologies for the harshness, but I think it's justified.

Whether or not they look ok is entirely up to you! I have a few HO American locos and freight cars and I think they look fine.

Damn fine work for a first attempt if you ask me! Keep the pics coming....

Late 70's to early 80's is my main period of interest. I've vivid memories of supertrain liveried locos deafening me as a child. I've heard it said that most people model what they remember from there childhood, and I'm no exception! I've thrown in a couple of black and tan liveried locos as they were still pottering about at that time. No interest in steam whatsoever.

Fantastic! What are the overall dimensions of the room btw?

Haven't done an update in a long time but managed to get a bit done over the last couple of weeks... Did some more ballasting is more or less finished except for a few small areas so I decided to weather the track/ballast with an airbrush, here's the results... I used Humbrol enamels, matt black with a touch of matt white. You can also see the shunting signals I installed on the crossing. They're not prototypical but work well and they look ok to me! Here's a pic of 182 reposing in the siding. Here's a shot of the engine shed. Finally added some innocent bystanders to the platform, the guy on the right looks a bit impatient! I also installed some more signals, these are all wired to my point motors and change when any points are switched. I got them on Ebay and they started out looking like this... After a bit of surgery and a repaint I think I came up with something that looks a bit more fitting... Here are the signals for the bay platform.

Can't be sure as I've never tried it myself! I guess you would have to experiment with a small amount of ballast. I imagine you wouldn't need a large amount of powdered glue, Cascamite is strong stuff and it dries pretty much clear.

As said, you'd get a decent starter set for the same price...

I read on another forum that the loco and controller have to be bought separately, not sure if there's a discount for buying the magazine. I picked up a few of these myself, you can't go wrong for a fiver!

Another popular method is mixing powdered wood glue (Cascamite is the main brand available here) and spraying it with wet water.

The micro Switch on the Seep motors is simply a brass collar that moves between 2 contacts. It can become dirty or just wear out over time but once you have one installed they are easily replaced if one goes on the blink, they are cheap enough or like you said you could add an auxiliary switch. But I've had no problems on my layout with them and the motors themselves are as good as any other.

The Seep point motors are yer only man! As Dave said the ones with the built-in polarity switch can be used to switch frog polarity or for controlling signals.

In answer to the OP, yes 17's are a bit short unless you have large radius curves and points. I find the biggest problem with Kadees and Irish/UK stock is avoiding buffer lock. With US outline there are no buffers so the coupling distance can be very small and the Kadees are free to pivot without anything getting in their way. As soon as you add in buffers you have to be sure leave enough distance to stop the buffers from catching in each other. So to be honest Kadees are not the best option for really close coupling. Even with sprung buffers on both items of stock it can still go wrong on sharp curves. Have a look at this site - http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?autocom=custom&page=Kadee-Resources It gives an excellent rule of thumb when fitting Kadees which is to have the face of the knuckle about level with the face of the buffers.

I don't know about that! Uneven track and sharp curves will cause just as much trouble with tension locks, especially if you're mixing Bachmann/Hornby/Lima etc. with each other.

Have to agree. Look at this for just a few extra quid - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Airbrush-Kit-Includes-Compressor-Lots-of-Accessories-WOW-/190666490331?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2c649bc1db You get 2 double action airbrushes (not high quality but certainly good enough to be getting on with) and the compressor has a moisture trap fitted.

Lads, Came across this on Capel Street this morning....

But the gobs*ites aren't clear about that on the Royal Mail website. The way they word it you can't send any paint through the postal system at all....

That is a stunning piece of work!

Yes, the Model Shop's decoder is a separate product.

Thanks for the comments, lads! Glad you enjoyed the video....

Lads, Received my 071 sound decoder from Gareth in Model Shop Belfast during the week and thought I'd post a little video of it in action. I know DCC sound isn't everyone's cup of tea but I think the effect is great even with the pre-installed speaker. Enjoy, and please excuse the poor video quality! [video=youtube_share;oDiEKnC-Q-I]

While I have heard no complaints about the Powercab and it seems to be a universally popular system I would agree with David when he recommends the Prodigy. It has more power than the Powercab (3.5 amps) which should be more than enough for most layouts and programming locos' cv's and setting up consists is simple.

Where u based?

Thanks Barl. The reason I was asking is that I noticed you used insulfrog points like myself. I've got a bit of flack over it from some purists who recommended live frogs but I did'nt want the hassle of wiring polarity switches. Personally, I have no problems with them once the track is cleaned regularly.

I converted a few of the older Hornby mk3's myself a while back. The difference in length was'nt an issue to me and I think they look fine, but judge for yourself here; http://www.irishrailwaymodelling.com/showthread.php/77-Graham-s-Workbench/page2 I'll warn you though, they are a bit of a pain to repaint because of how the glazing is done!