Straight up, I won't be doing that. The expected volumes do not justify it. A detailing kit on the existing Horby/Lima version is the route I'll be going down.
Folks,
I've been thinking about Ger's build and wondering would a D-Class detailing etch pack + transfers be of interest?
Higher windows, side boxes, grills, footsteps etc.
I'd need at least 10 kits to make it worthwhile. Over to y'all.
To call it faultless would be to insult it. Really beautiful modelling work. The rivet work must have brought you close to weeping.
The billboards really finish it off. I'm feeling homesick already!
Cut, paste, collate, edit, index, size 9 times roman. PDF
No bother. That's what desk top publishing is all about.
Now photos.....that's a different matter.
T'will take more than the threat of a MIL to make me talk!
I have to complement the Ballybeg layout as well, that corner section with the cutting is very classy, it really looks the part.
Props to Herr Scahalane as the first to put up a schematic, but here is my own version that I hope helps things along the way.
I will include this in all future versions of relevant instructions. The resistors are a standard 0.25w so with a current draw of 7-9mA per LED, a single 1800Ω resistor should handle two LEDs ok.
It doesn't matter what side, the main purpose of the resistor is to limit the voltage drop across the LED to below the max specified value (typically 2volts), as well as limiting the circuit current.. Otherwise it fries.
Example:
Rated LED V =Vled=2V
Supply voltage =Vs=12v
1800 ohm resistor
Vs(12)=Vled(2) +V resistor=
12-2=8 Volts = Voltage across resistor= Current * 1800ohms
Current = 8/1800=4.4mA