Jump to content

J15 0-6-0 with Z boiler

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

Posted

Tell us more, Andy. I got a 3mm scale C and L brake from there and have really struggled with it…..

17 minutes ago, Andy Cundick said:

Ive got one of the MGW Brakes which is kept by my workbench as an awful warning Andy.

 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Galteemore said:

Tell us more, Andy. I got a 3mm scale C and L brake from there and have really struggled with it…..

 

Apparently they’re a bit rough. Very crude prints with poor detail, much of which ends up inevitably being rubbed off when cleaning up.

Posted

I fancied the Clayton railcar but if they are as bad as you guys intimate I'll save my money.  I expect they are printed with old tech printers, one of our club guys has got some very good results with a new printer and  low statification  lines and is going to try printing using resin.

Posted
2 hours ago, Mike 84C said:

I fancied the Clayton railcar but if they are as bad as you guys intimate I'll save my money.  I expect they are printed with old tech printers, one of our club guys has got some very good results with a new printer and  low statification  lines and is going to try printing using resin.

Yes, I think it’s the printers not being the best, from a number of comments I’ve seen on a number of sites.

Posted
6 hours ago, Galteemore said:

Tell us more, Andy. I got a 3mm scale C and L brake from there and have really struggled with it…..

 

T o be honest by the time you've cleaned them up all the detail would have gone and you might as well scratch build ita good argument for etched brass.Andy.

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)
58 minutes ago, Andy Cundick said:

T o be honest by the time you've cleaned them up all the detail would have gone and you might as well scratch build ita good argument for etched brass.Andy.

That's why I was going start with something straightforward , but maybe not then. Thanks for that input @Andy Cundick

Edited by DiveController
Posted

The majority of Shapeways models are available in "Versatile Plastic" using FDM technology most likely because of cost.

There tends to be a trade off between surface finish, strength and resilience with 3D printing technologies and materials.

Versatile Plastic has the advantage of low cost strength and resilience with the disadvantage of a coarse surface texture and difficulty sanding.

Fine Detail Plastic has the advantage of capturing fine detail against higher cost, visible layering and brittleness.

Resin Printing is good at capturing fine detail with minimal layering against high cost (labour and material) and brittleness, requiring a high level of care in choice of resins for railway models.

Shapeways have a SLA printing option (SLA Plastic) at 3-4 times the cost of versatile plastic.

It might be worth contacting the designer for a quote for an SLA print of a simple coach or a wagon.

I tend to agree with Andy that scratchbuilding or an etched kit would be a better option for a loco or coach than a Shapeways Versatile Plastic print.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative 2
Posted
19 hours ago, Mike 84C said:

I fancied the Clayton railcar

 

So did I, and as Andy noted, the surface finish was very dissappointing.  

 

350228441_ClaytonRailcarModel1.0.jpg.9b90c2ebc19b240d47cb8f746ef6b98b.jpg

Basic airbrush primer (black) with two panels with various levels of surface cleaning - one using fine brass brush, second using light sand paper.  Surface is quite tough and difficult to sand back, so an alternate was needed.  The model cost €100 inclusive of shipping and I was not just going to throw it away.

I resorted to using a heavy automotive primer used to smooth out blemishies in car repairs, which was an improvment, but does not stand up to close scrutiny.

289279432_ClaytonRailcarModel1.1.thumb.jpg.85aee94dbf9310dd63cfaa64990bf319.jpg

 

So, if I can avail of the 1m rule (rather than 2') I get a reasonable model I can live with.

1089034485_ClaytonRailcarModel1.3.thumb.jpg.f292884806abb52c0198bd7befc8d020.jpg

1787943772_ClaytonRailcarModel1.4.thumb.jpg.16dec5a08583b87eb1af04f435f4a0f3.jpg

Full lenght brass chassis with veritcal motor where the boiler would be in the prototype and brass bogie at the other end.  A 3D printed interior helped to give some internal detail. 

Tthe poor surface finish makes lining quite difficult, but as noted above, at the 1m viewing distance is not too bad.

I need to add some handrails, door handles and steps which will help to finish this one out.  Some weathering would also help to mask some of the imperfections.

 

All in all a difficult model to work with due ot the very poor surface finish and I have been going back and forth with work on this one for some time now.  I made a concerted effort to bring this one to completion & feel I have a passable model that will work in with the other models on a layout.

Would I do it again - not a chance!!

 

Ken

 

  • Like 7
  • Informative 1
Posted

Thank's for showing the Clayton railcar Ken and your comments on the difficulty getting a decent finish. You used similar technique to a guy on RMweb Nial who has posted quite a lot of info; and it just seems to be a great deal of filing rubbing down and probable loss of detail.

  I did think of contacting the vendor to discuss alternative print material but came to the conclusion that many Shapeways vendors have never printed their own models.

 Still an interesting model though!

          Mick

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

A passable model considering how poor surface finish was but the basic product is very rough indeed, your first photo speaks volumes. Nail in the coffin right there for me. This thread has been very instructive for me

Edited by DiveController
  • Like 2
Posted

Ken, you've done a truly amazing job on what is clearly - as you show so well - a truly awful initial product - certainly not worth the €100 that Shapeways want for it.

I had considered getting some of their MGWR six-wheel coach bodies at one time, but was firmly warned off by someone else who had bought some other carriage body from them. In this day and age very bad value indeed, and your experience tends to amplify what others have said.

That said, your have done a (typically!) amazing job in making a silk purse out of a sow's behind quarters!

May I ask, is your model "0" gauge? If it is, it shows that to expect a decent result in any smaller scale would be folly indeed, even for those of exceptional skill!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
48 minutes ago, jhb171achill said:

is your model "0" gauge?

@jhb171achill,  It is OO-P4, and it did prove difficult to get any form of reasonable finish.  As noted, at the 1m range, it is passable and a model that was on my list to build, so I will keep it.

 

From experience of printing my own models with resin technology, this model is of very poor surface quality.  Detail was reasonable, but lost when trying to improve said surface quality.  On it's plus side, the model is quite strong and up to robust handling - the stringers under the body have proved to be very strong and have not broken despite considerable handling.  I know a similar detail on one of my printed models would not stand up.  It seems to be a compromise between detail and strength - for my money, I would prefer to go for detail & take the risk on damage due to rough handling.  If I were to print this model myself, I would print the body without the stringers, and add these to the brass chassis to provide strength.

Hopefully this model will improve slightly with weathing.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use