David's Workbench

[J-Mo Arts]

1 hour ago, David Holman said:

 On Fintonagh, using Kadees and rare earth magnets, you have to spot a 3mm 'window' from up to 2m away...

 Perseverance very much the key!

As I have found, this is -with practice and your markers- a relatively easy task until a small crowd has gathered around the layout, at which point the magnets seem to vanish into another dimension... 

[David Holman]

Indeed! Many similar experiences trying to use screw link couplings at exhibitions. Many an occasion where it was just as well the onlookers couldn't hear what I was thinking.

[David Holman]

E class working chassis

 Having got a nice rolling chassis, the next job is to take everything off again to fit the motor gearbox. Time was it would have been one of the Mashimas, but now it is a Canon motor, prefitted to a Premier gearbox. Still a nice combination, especially compared to making up an etched box, because all the work is done for you.

 A worthwhile tip when fitting the wheels is to file a flat on the driven axle to make the main gear more secure.. After that, it is a case of soldering a couple of fly leads to the motor and then putting all the wheels and rods back again for another test. This revealed a slight tight spot entailing the coupling rods being removed for a third time, just to open out the holes a fraction, after which all seems well and with power applied to the motor a nice, slow crawl is possible.

 The next job was to fit the brake gear. This is one of those tasks that is a bit of a pet hate. Etched kits almost always mean you have to make up the brake shoes in two or more layers & [apart from cost], I can never understand why moulded plastic ones aren't supplied - not least because it would take far less time to fit them AND you could get them closer to the wheels without risking a short. Yes, there are ways and I will put a smear of superglue on the brake surfaces to help, but brake gear really isn't my favourite pastime.

 The other things fitted today were the guard irons, after which the chassis was taken apart yet again, to be cleaned up and given a coat of primer. Fingers crossed, once a coat of matt black has also been applied that should be the last time it needs to come apart - though you never know! This latest work took about three hours over the weekend, bringing the total up to 13 so far.

[Tullygrainey]

Looking good David. I'm with you on brake gear and the dangers of shorting - not my favourite task either. In fact, whisper it, one or two of my kit builds never got their brakes fitted. On a few others I played it so safe, a 4mm scale fitter could probably get his head between brake pad and wheel tread.

In 4mm, Gibsons do a small range of plastic brake shoes, intended to address the shorting issue and I've begun to look at those as an alternative to the supplied etched bits.

Despite the difficulties, the brakes on your E Class look like they could actually stop it, rather than wave around in the general vicinity of the wheels so job done.

Please keep posting. I've looked with interest at those Alphagraphix kits so it's great to see one going together so nicely.

[David Holman]

 After a coat of matt black, the chassis has been reassembled & now the paint needs to harden for a couple of days before I fit the pick ups.

  That just left the boiler and smokebox as the last main section. The latter is designed for the later, J26, version which has plenty of rivets, but photos suggest in original form the E class had smooth smokeboxes so decided to file the rivets off. Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos of the assembly of both this and the boiler, though as all the etches are in .009mm thick brass curving and rolling the etches to shape is fairly straightforward, if a bit fiddly.

 The smokebox wrapper is rolled round a piece of plastic water pipe, then carefully soldered to the front and rear faces. An extra hand and asbestos fingers would help, but with remarkably few rude works and some lolly sticks as insulation, it all went together fairly quickly.

 It would have been nice to have used my rolling bars to form the boiler/firebox unit, but as this is a single etch, with only the front section actually making a tube, I had to resort to various diameters of brass bar and tube instead. The same thin brass is used, so most of the forming took place quickly, though where holes had been etched for the chimney and dome, this caused problems as the metal tried to kink at these points. An hour of trial and error eventually sorted it though. A circle of brass is supplied to solder inside the rolled tube at the smokebox end, with a another piece the right shape for the firebox to go at the other.

 It is then possible to use a 6BA nut and bolt to hold the boiler and smokebox units together and ensure they are correctly aligned before soldering them together. The combined unit is then slid into place and [helped by a couple of tabs to align things], also soldered in place.

 A few more odds and ends then need forming and soldering, including the handrails and cylinder cover, but suddenly the superstructure is complete and the rest of the detailing is mainly white metal castings. One of the latter [a nice firebox backhead from the spares box] adds a bit more substance than the flat etch supplied with the kit. However, a couple of other details have since been soldered on - the nameplates and etched numbers. Decided on 107, Robin, as the Slater's etched numerals seemed the best fit on the sandboxes - though they were certainly a fiddly job to fit. The builder's plates on the bunker sides are actually etches of some Simplex ones I had in the scrap box. I've soldered them on upside down in the hope of further disguising the tiny lettering! About five hours over the last three days, brings the build time to 18 so far.

 I've perched the chimney, dome and safety valves on the boiler for some photos and it is interesting to see how much more dainty the new loco looks against its J26 sister with the original chimney. Am currently pondering on whether to paint Robin in early MGWR green, or try the short lived blue livery, but for now work will have to take a back seat for a few days as Fintonagh is the the Orpington show over the weekend, so I will be busy with that.

Edited May 18, 2023 by David Holman

[Galteemore]

Fantastic work. Oh how I remember the fiddle of soldering on 107 - making sure the numbers were straight and even spaced……

[Tullygrainey]

Lovely job David. It’s come together very nicely. That really is a charming little engine. 

[Gabhal Luimnigh]

Lovely work 

[KMCE]

Very nice work - your soldering is always to neat and tidy.  Is it the photo angle or does this model sit slightly lower that your 558 - the boiler appears to be pitched lower so the longer chimney does not look so obvious?

That's turning into a very nice little locomotive.

[Noel]

In awe a people who can do precision brass modelling. Engineering excellence. 

[David Holman]

Thanks folks, feel rather flattered by the engineering term and indeed the neat soldering. It's better than it used to be, but appearance is mainly down to careful cleaning up - something I have needed to be good at out of necessity!

 I'm with you Ken, over comparing the two locos. Have always thought the J26, pretty though it is, to be a bit chunky compared to an original E class. The only part that is different is that slender, tapered chimney, but the visual effect is marked. Even been to measure both the wheels and boiler heights to check, but they are indeed the same. A real optical illusion it seems...

 Noel, the kit makes the work pretty easy, the parts all fit accurately and I reckon most modellers who can solder could put one of these together. It really would make a good starter for anyone tempted to have a go at 7mm scale, plus you could always build it in 32mm gauge.

Edited May 19, 2023 by David Holman

[David Holman]

After the gentle delights of a weekend at the Orpington show, the next job was to fit the pick ups. I found some thin copper clad strip, which was fixed to the frames with 5 minute epoxy. 0.5mm phosphor bronze wire was then soldered to this & then bent to press on the wheels. Solder a wire to each of the motor terminals and a brief holding of breath to see if I'd got the polarity right and, hey presto - the wheels turned the same way as my other locos. Nice...

 The photo below shows the chassis in action on my basic rolling road.

 While there was still a bit more soldering to do, much of the remaining work used more 5 minute epoxy to fit the white metal castings - chimney, dome, buffers and so on. The good thing about epoxy is that the setting time allows you to check alignments without waiting too long, but very important when trying to get key items to sit right.

 At this stage, I like to go through the instructions to make my own list of things to do in order to complete the model, in particular adding things I've noticed from photos - and indeed a couple of recent posts on that odd looking pipe around the smokebox, now thought to be part of the vacuum brake system. I've used 1.0mm brass wire and some spare bits from a set of Slater's vacuum pipes to try and replicate this.

 Various bits and pieces later & it is time to start getting ready for the paint shop. Just in case anyone might think otherwise, a few pictures show the loco before the cleaning up process. Another shows the main tools for this - various dental probes and scrapers, plus a range of "whifflers" - files of different shapes that enable you to get into tight corners. Various grades of wet and dry sand paper are also used of course, plus the dreaded [but hugely effective] glass fibre pencil. 

 The result is the last few photos of the [mostly] cleaned up model. A tip here is not to try to be too fastidious, because however thorough you are, that first 'witness' coat of primer will quickly show what you have missed. Hence, you simply have to live with the fact that a bit more filling and filing will be necessary before you can think about the top coats. Total time is now about 26 hours.

[Galteemore]

Lovely work as ever David. Interesting to see that the rear numbers were in this position on 107. Others had them between the spectacle plates. 

[David Holman]

Nicely put and thank you.

A variation of the "measure twice, cut once" moral... and looking at the photos, there are a couple of other tweaks required too!

[leslie10646]

2 hours ago, David Holman said:

Nicely put and thank you.

A variation of the "measure twice, cut once" moral... and looking at the photos, there are a couple of other tweaks required too!

Diplomacy itself indeed, as you would expect from someone of David's Calling?

Wonderful model, David H, your skills and speed astound me! Still I guess lots of practise helps?

Lovely to see the little engine in its finished brass form. It almost seems a pity to paint it! When I had a GNR AL Class built recently, I asked the builder to photograph it in its brass state as they look so nice like that.

It occurs to me that there will soon be more of these little E Class in 7mm,than ever were in  12inches to the foot?

[David Holman]

Definitely three in 36.75mm gauge, Leslie. Given I have to move the rear numbers, may well change mine to 109 & Fly. No point in having two Robins when there are plenty of other names to choose from, plus Fly was at Westport in GSR days, so not a million miles from Northport - wherever that might be!

[KMCE]

That's turning out to be fine looking loco, and I admire your focus in finishing - I need to get back to my almost finished locos & get them done!

[David Holman]

 A bit more fettling and then a good clean [using Cif and an old toothbrush] was followed by a coat of car primer. I'm always surprised by the outcomes of this 'witness coat' - things you expect to show up don't, while other stuff appears that you weren't expecting. The picture below shows the model in its new guise as 109, Fly - and what a complete pain it was changing the numbers!

 However, at first sight, the loco looks ok - until you look closer... The next picture shows those numbers on the sandbox. Annoyingly the middle 0 is a fraction too low, but more importantly, look at the shape of the dome! Hadn't noticed that until I took the photo, so a bit of filing to reshape it is required.

 Now we have the rear bunker & spectacle plate. The numbers are now in the right place, but the 1 is leaning over slightly, while a gap is showing where the bunker meets the rear buffer beam.

 Now for the other side: not too bad here, but that dome clearly needs attention, while the lower step needs tweaking slightly.

 The smokebox is reasonably ok, but again, note the dome...

... while on the bunker side, we have a gap where it joins the footplate.

 Looking from above, we can see that the chimney, dome and safety valves are not sitting snugly on the boiler, so some filing and filling is needed here.

 while finally [for now], a rear 3/4 view of the bunker shows the need for a bit of filling.

 All of this work is a bit tedious, but very necessary if a decent finish is to be achieved - so back to filling and filing before another coat of primer and [probably] further fettling and the top coats can be applied.

[Tullygrainey]

Tedious work indeed David but worth the effort as you say. It’s going to be good!
I’m putting off applying the primer coat as long as possible on my present project and dreading what it’ll show up

[David Holman]

 Three further lots of filling, filing and more primer had the E class ready for  its top coat...

... until I dropped it on the floor.

 It was like what you see in films, everything in slow motion. I managed to stick a foot out to try and break the fall, but the model hit the floor chimney first. That broke off bashing in the smokebox top in the process, while the next bounce was on the left hand buffer, knocking the beam inwards.

 There are of course no words to describe the anguish at that point - even the rude ones were not enough, but what to do?

 At least the chimney came off in one piece, but the top of the smokebox was a right mess. Being only 10thou brass, it had deformed badly with the impact and the was no way to get inside to push the dent out again. Instead, I used a piece of thick brass rod, bent into an L shape, pushed inside the small hole in the top of the smokebox and managed to ease the metal upwards a bit. However, it was never going to come back properly, so the only option was to refit the chimney and then build up the surrounding surface with more filler.

 The buffer beam was less bother - a bit of tweaking with a pair of flat nosed pliers [mostly] straightened it out, followed by a bit more filler. The dome had a couple of scratches, but these at least polished out while the handrail also needed a bit of tweaking. Could have been worse I suppose.

 Anyway, another couple of rounds of filler, filing and spray primer and the loco is [almost] back to where it was this morning and hopefully ready again for its green top coat. I guess about another four hours was spent on the original fettling, so, not counting bouncing the model on the floor, that brings the total time to 30 hours.

[Gabhal Luimnigh]

Could have been a lot worse, you did well with the repairs, once you have it finished then you won't remember the calamity, you are doing lovely work lad, keep it up.

[Horsetan]

It'll polish out.

[Galteemore]

Thanks for sharing that David - most encouraging tutorial. Have had a few similar mishaps and it’s horrible! Great repair job.

[Tullygrainey]

Ah David, what a thing to happen. That must’ve been hugely discouraging. I would say anguish doesn’t even begin to describe the feeling. You’ve made a great recovery though. Well done, both for fixing the damage and for recovering your composure so well. The big hammer stayed in the drawer

Alan

[J-Mo Arts]

Very well fixed, and well done for not destroying the thing in rage! Any sign of a dent in the buffer beam still visible could be explained as the result of a rough shunt? Very fine work as ever and well done for the skillful repairs 

[David Holman]

Thanks folks!

As suggested, am not too bothered about the buffer beam having a slight dent in it as such things seemed to happen quite frequently. The smokebox is still showing signs of meeting the floor, but am hoping this will disappear once a coat of dark grey (almost black) is applied there. If not, more filler may be needed.

 Ordered the lining from Fox Transfers last night, so once that arrives another stress test beckons. The MGW didn't hold back when it came to lining... 

[leslie10646]

Commiserations, David, that you dropped your little Robin on the floor and what an amazing job of repair! You're simply in another League.

I'm now going downstairs to surround "Rosses Point" with bubble wrap and cushions - for I'm pretty ham-fisted. Mind you, once on Galteemore's track, things stay there, it's just if I do the "Hand of God" bit.

I did exactly the same with my "QL" dropping it on the floor of the attic where Portadown Junction lives - same result. Now this is where a robot with a very soft touch might come in handy?

Edited June 3, 2023 by leslie10646

[David Holman]

This model is really starting to test my patience! Nothing wrong with the kit, but the gremlins are very active chez Holman it seems...

 Having got the model ready for its top coat [again], I got out my Halford's Ford Garden Green rattle can [same one as I used with Wolf Dog] and, following a good shake, proceeded to spray the model. Instead of the usual fine spray, what came out was more akin to a muck spreader. Forget the fine mist, think diarrhoea! 

Sorry...

 What I should have done was stop immediately and wash it off, however the coverage, though heavy, looked like it might be ok, so I carried on. The reason for this bit of madness is that it is perfectly possible to rescue a bit of heavy spraying by using T-Cut, though of course this is less effective when the paint is nearly an inch thick - ok at least a millimetre. 

 Having left the model to dry for a full two days, I tried the T-Cut this morning, but it got me nowhere, so it was back to Halfords for some paint stripper and a new can of paint. Stripper, fine, but the Ford Garden Green is no longer available it seems. Told you it was trying my patience!

 At the moment, option one is to spray the existing can into a container and then decant this into the side cup of my airbrush and spray it on that way - hopefully getting a decent finish. Option two is whatever alternative suggestions you good folk out there might have. I'm happy with rattle cans, but currently I can't find anything that matches Ford Garden Green = the shade I've used on Wolf Dog = MGWR green. 

 Suggestions are most welcome, please and here is Fly, back in the buff, albeit needing a bit more cleaning up [and the sandbox lever straightened] before putting on the primer. Again.

  In the meantime, I've made a start on the train for the E class. All of it already exists, starting with a Brake 3rd with a centre look out on the roof, which used to be the third coach in Wolf Dog's mail train. To go with this, I've repainted both the 4w hearse/fish van and Glasshouse Brake in MGW brown and am intending to add the gold lining also present on the Brake 3rd. Am very much hoping this is historically correct for the early 1900s as, with the lined green loco, it should make an attractive little train. So fingers crossed this is acceptable!

[Galteemore]

Oh no David! I think a few popped in this way today too. Paint wise I used RAL6001 from an auto paint mixing shop for MGW green. Wolf Dog and train look fabulous.

[Bob49]

If I'm using rattle can, which is mainly for primer. I stick the can in a bucket of really hot water for five minutes before I use it. It gives a more even coat. 

Marc

[Tullygrainey]

More bad luck than you deserve David. Hang in there. It will definitely be worth it. The rolling stock looks great.

[David Holman]

Thanks folks. RAL6001 is indeed the number on my rattle can, so that will be my next quest.

[Noel]

Stunning despite the bad fortune. Your Perseverance is admirable and no doubt will pay off.

[Northroader]

Very good looking MGWR train. Being a dinosaur, I use an artists paint brush, dip it in a tin of Humbrol, and then put it on with a sort of brushing action. Spray cans??

[David Holman]

 Well, E Class "Fly" is at last looking [very] green, following the arrival of a new rattle can of RAL6001 Emerald Green. At this stage, I don't much like the first top coat, because it always looks too bright [or black]. However, am likewise alway surprised and pleased that the addition of the other colours, plus a bit of weathering, tones things down.

 This is also the time when I find there is a bigger list of stuff to finish than I first thought, as you can see below:

 Two that took up rather too much of my time were the buffers and screw couplings. The latter were because I didn't have any sets left in my stores, though I did find two brass castings of the central pivoting section. Therefore, got out some 0.5mm wire and bent up four loops to finish them off, then adding each unit to etched hooks that I did still have.

 The original white metal buffer heads took a bit of a battering when I dropped the model on the floor, so inspired by Alan's [Tullygrainy] work with files & a drill, I got four steel buffer heads from my store and turned the shanks down to 3mm diameter, then cut off half of the 2mm diameter shank, so they can fit into holes drilled in the main shank. Before this, I cut off the white metal heads of the original buffers. 

 Have also found four lamps that, after painting, will be glued to the buffer beams. A photo of these bits, along with the latest picture of Fly is shown below.

 Another five hours or so have been added to the build time, bringing it to 35. Speaking of numbers, have been brooding on the cost of this project. The kit itself costs £125 - not bad. However, other stuff soon starts adding up: £84 - wheels and broad gauge axles; £50 - motor/gearbox; £20 - paint; £5 - couplings [albeit a while ago], bringing the total to £284. There again, a new 4mm scale loco can easily top £200 or more these days!