Nearly finished my second ballast plough van.I had to sort the roof antenna on the first van as I made a bags of it first time around.As can be seen the roof has not been glued on the second van yet as I need to get proper glue that won't cause any clouding from super glue like what happened on the first van.Still a bit of touching up and weathering
to do.
My 187 had the chassis lugs taken off as well
as all speaker parts that were originally in the
loco.I can't say I would fancy taking the speaker
out of the housing altogether, although it would
save on the work to clear out this area.
Noel I just used the standard bass enhanced speaker
with the back taken off as I was having trouble getting the cab to fit properly.
Some great info on CVs cheers.
I paid a quick visit to Ballybeg a few nights ago and a got a
bit of video of my own 187 with realdrive and Gerrys 088 with
realdrive.The coasting feature can be seen near the end of the
video.088 has a bass reflex speaker in her,and quite a blast
especially from the horn sounds.
The IFM cement drop side and curtain.
I bought them as kits,drop side 22 euro and curtain side 18 euro without chassis.
I bought the Dapol rtr chassis which are very handy with the nem coupling
and run very well.The dapol prestwin chassis will fit as well if you want it to look better.The MIR kits are probably more detailed.
E
It's a nice layout alright Noel, and
I love getting a chance to run some of
my own trains on it.The 141 realdrive is
so enjoyable and and had a very nice feel
to it.I did not capture the coasting very well
on the video as the MK3 train derailed a couple
of times right at the wrong time.
Here is a bit of video showing my own 2700 that have the TCS
Decoder in the power car,and a TCS lighting decoder in the non powered
car.I put extra pick ups on as some flickering occurred,so she runs very
well now.
I have a TCS two function chip in power
car, and a TCS lighting decoder in the non
powered end.It works well with the directional
lighting, however I found that extra pick ups were
needed at the non powered end to stop flickering.
Thanks for the comments lads.
That's a good tip there Rich.
The junction signal is from the SSM
stable and is supposed to work points
on the other side of the bridge.