murrayec

I really like the new system for inserting photos, makes it far easier to add in text descriptions now that one sees the photo in the editor Great Eoin

Hi 617 had its buffers painted red, SMM decal number added to the front buffer beam, new axle spacers and final drive gear installed which has improved the running- minimal lurch now. I sourced the replacement axle spacers from Peters Spares.... And a shot pulling a bit of freight out at Greystones yesterday morning Eoin

Nice one BosKonay, it's looking great Eoin

I wonder how I could get me hands on some of those millions- it would help DART expansion! Eoin

Hi decauville1126 pm sent Eoin

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/6212-Gauge-N-CIE-DART?p=99729&viewfull=1#post99729

Hi R. Yes it will be available later... I did NS wire ones for the Class C sides but to much fiddly work, so the A's will be brass etched, to be folded up and soldered! Eoin

Hi decauville1126 I'll put you in the mix for a set, the chassis will be available soon, it still needs a bit of work to finalise, and it will be available as components as required, or ready to run I will pm you as soon as I check out postal cost for the sides to England Eoin

Thanks StevieB Yes I can run off a set for you if you want, a set of 4 is €25.00.... they will need a slight clean up with sharp knife, a file and fibre brush Eoin

Hi Here is a few photos of the finished loco with its new smoke box door n hook, which I forgot to post up at the time it was finished Eoin

Hi While moulding the Class A bogie sides I made a mould to replace the damaged break shoes, here is a few shots..... This is a photo of the four castings and one of the original parts the mould was made from. Much easier than the A stuff cause its nice thick parts and the metal flows through the mould- even when the mould is cold! Eoin

Hi All After a week of mould making and a bit of a compromise on pattern detail the Class A Bogie Sides started to appear, I'm still experiencing venting and chilling problems, but came up with a technique that gave 80% success- some of the detail is to fine for this kind of moulding without a centrifuge... Eoin

Hi Tony Yes, you have the sequence right, the polythene sheet goes on the inner walls covering the insulation, then the ply goes back on. It does not have to be heavy gauge, most suppliers have a light sheet for vapour barriers. Most important is to ensure the sheet is not damaged and has good overlap between the ceiling and wall sheets. Fixing the ply on can damage the barrier with the fixings so a bead of TEK7 along the studs on top of the polythene staples before offering up the ply will seal the holes of the fixings. Put as much insulation in the roof as you can, more is best Take a look at these images, which may help;- https://www.google.ie/search?q=vapour+barriers&client=firefox-b&dcr=0&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiRuay8qdrWAhWHtBoKHXjSAusQ_AUICigB&biw=1280&bih=892 Eoin

oooooh Tony You got to put insulation in the roof! or you will never be able to keep the temperature up- your poor models and layout would suffer, not to mention you in the depths of winter, the roof is 70% of the area that you loose heat thru..... The reason the shed guys put that sheet under the tin roof is to drain away the condensation that forms on the underside of the tin and drips down! It's actually a draining sheet, if you look closely the holes are perforated from inside out which allows the drips to slide away to the sides and not drip on top of you.... Humidity is the bitch! an non insulated shed is about 10% less humid than outside, moisture comes up through the structure and condenses on anything cold like a tin roof and then drips Eoin

Hi Tony Did you install the insulation in the roof after the shed was erected? & is the roof insulation below that breathable barrier? If so it's not a vapour barrier and you should install one below the insulation. Study the drawing above Eoin

Hi Tony Yes, remove the ceiling ply and install the barrier on the inside of the insulation only, it is for stopping condensation from the inside getting into the insulation- damp insulation is no insulation and if you keep breathing it wont dry out! Do at least put it into the roof, walls less important but best to do it... Eoin

Hi Tony A vapour barrier and ample ventilation is a must, the barrier is to protect the insulation from condensation from the inside, as Broithe says- breathing and heaters, the barrier is placed inside the insulation to stop condensation going up through the insulation, condensing on the inside of the outer skin and then dripping onto the insulation. Roof and walls should have vapour barriers. Air gaps between the insulation and the structure is a good idea also.... Cross ventilation should be installed in the walls so that air can circulate through, ideally at each end of the structure and ample size. Eoin

http://irishrailwaymodeller.com/showthread.php/4928-How-to-add-photos-and-images-to-your-posts-and-threads?p=75399&viewfull=1#post75399

I had a Fiat back in the 70's that was 'Guaranteed Irish' all the way from Grand Canal Street! does that count?.... Eoin

Hi Paddy Plenty of parking right on front of the building in the school car park Eoin

Hi Paul Really looking forward to the show, and seeing the DARTs on the Dun Laoghaire layout.... Eoin

Here is a sample;- Here is template-01;- Here is template-02, it has a second field if you want to use your name and user name;- Save the template, add your info in a paint program or print it out and write in your name, then mount it on some hard card and tape on a safety pin at rear and ready to go Nice photo of the show Gerry, great to see Eoin