murrayec

Hi David Can you post or pm a link to the photo of the control desk? Thanks Eoin

Excellent David I think the smaller windows are correct, when the larger ones were installed it lost a scale quality.... Almost my favourite loco, have a few OO but must get doing an O Eoin

Hi david Also look out for the windows, see popeye's first photo of an early one- smaller windows to front and 3 of the same size across the back. Not sure if the Worsley Works 7mm etch has this if you are interested? Eoin

Hi David We had a discussion about livery on these lovely machines some time back and JHB gave livery info throughout, see link below- I was also caught out on that Tom Ferris photo, it's silver! the negative is old style and its colour is going off and it was printed as light blue..... Eoin

Hay Wrennie I think the gyro is a bit off on that drone Nice old bubbles though..... Eoin

Vernier Callipers. This I find the best dial calliper to use on plastic models- Marks Models usually have these in stock. It's a €10.00 dial calliper with a shortened beam- to fit in ones pocket, and a tapped in M2 screw to lock the free leg to the beam to hold a measurement. The plastic ones are user friendly to models as the metal ones are quite sharp on the edges and I found they mark models very easily where one does not want a mark! Dials are better than batteries for the obvious reason. One point on this unit- I found the fingers are not perpendicular to the beam so as long as you know this and allow for it, its fine.... Eoin

Today's job on the Cameo Here is a basic example of what can be done, Class G replacement cabs for a Worsley Works etch kit with the old style windows This is the mounting of the .5mm styrene sheet on the carrier sheet The sheet is cut several times, each time deeper, scoring is done at a depth of 4 and then for cutting the parts in incremental depths of 2 until 10- 10 is the deepest cut which is more than halfway through the sheet Then out with the scalpel to cut it out- X's in the windows to push them out and then run the scalpel in the deep cut lines to aid cutting corners and curves Done, needing a bit of sanding on the edges and light scoring on the back to bend it into a cab Eoin

Hi Noel The plastic sheet is best mounted on the sticky carrier sheet, there are two pressure wheels on the drive shaft that put pressure on the sheet, but the knife pressure can twist the plastic in these and then its a mess. As well as the carrier sheet I use masking tape as the carrier looses its tack over time especially with styrene. Reg marks are only required if you want to line the machine up with pre printed stuff that you want to cut out, cutting plain plastic sheet does not need this as long as you mount the plastic on the carrier sheet in relationship to the drawing in the software. There is a grid in the software and on the carrier sheet to aid on this... Do remember you need some CAD skills to prepare the drawings, the Cameo software is not great for this! I use Autocad and then import it in as a DXF- the latest version of the Cameo software had bugs in the DXF import- coming in at the wrong scale, so I went back to a version that does work! Eoin

Hi Noel Get out your vernier and measure it, it will cut plastic/acetate but the edges are harder to clean up because you don't want to score the glazing- I use a nail polishing stick to do this Eoin

Yes Noel, I use one and its very handy It will cut plastic card up to about .3mm after that it can score it for snapping, 1mm card is about the max that will fit under the tool. Its great for scoring detail on the surface of parts. The parts do need tidying up and they can be slightly distorted by the pull of the blade- some lines may not be parallel as intended! The blade lasts a reasonable time depending on how one uses it, there are a few different suppliers other than the Cameo one and they are cheaper but from the US or on Amazon I have used it to score or mark out thin brass sheet with a diamond tip tool- very handy, it will score deep enough for folding. The Cameo cutter is in the cost range of €300.00, there are other machines far better but come at a higher price, an entry level Laser Cutter for plastic will cost around €2000.00 the last time I looked and that is a basic one! Laser is not low cost alternative to a Cameo cutter. The majority of the parts for this project were cut on the Cameo, including the window mullions;- Eoin

Hi IANG That sounds like something got into the works or the works are jambed somehow! Take a close look around the wheels and see if anything may be stopping the mechanisms from turning, push the wheels back and forth with the fingers and see if there is play in the gears, hold it up-right while doing this and see if anything drops out. Check also to see if the bogies fell free to rotate and wobble from side to side Try it on the track again after doing all this and see what happens- watch carefully and see if it budges and then stops- if it does move slightly and stop, this will tell you its something mechanical locking up Eoin

Hi Popeye It looks absolutely amazing Eoin

Nice one Dave I'd like or share that, but nowhere to put it Eoin

Hi IANG Some more info required;- Is the 141 DCC? a lot of DCC'ed locos will run on DC track if the chip has been set to do so? Did it run on the DC track? Did it make a noise when you put it on the DC track? Are you now trying to run it on DCC track? Are the wheels and track clean? Eoin

Broad gauge OO DARTs There are two sets out there Eoin

Hi All Here is confirmation on the date for the December Fair which was only confirmed today, if you know people who go,can you please let them know.......

Hi DB Joe No problem, I will have a couple of sets with me at the Bray Show tomorrow if you can make it- €25.00 for a set of 4 sides, otherwise pm me and we can discuss Eoin

Break gear coming together Shoes cut out of Delrin for insulation purposes and the hangers from .5mm brass Hangers marked out and holes drilled ready for cutting out All the bits, including guard irons from .5mm brass, the fire grate front n sides and a little bit of grate detail in .5mm brass with rivets punched Break shoes pinned onto the hangers, 1.2mm brass tube with .6mm id soldered into the chassis to take .6mm pins to hang the breaks off Breaks test erected and joy-rigged at the lower end to work out the longitudinal break lever arms and cross fittings..... next Eoin

Sorry David! I fustered over this question for a number of days! eventually I decided to stick with standard Gauge O, the reasoning is that all my other Gauge O stuff is standard and all the track I've bought for the garden is standard...... I'm not eliminating broad gauge- I have plans for a display shunting layout and that will be 'The Right Gauge' Eoin

Hi Rich Thanks The jigs are home spun- the soldering clamp unit is a new one in hardwood, the old mdf one started to bloat with the flux getting into the mdf!!. The rolling road was built at the time of the Scot chassis build. I reckon spending the time to jig something is time well spent if the work can be put together accurately, and saves time in avoiding undoing or tidying up a mess if things go wrong without jigging Eoin

Hi David Great photo for reference What is the tube beside the cab door for? I see it on some of the photos of this and other class... Eoin

Next was to solder in the axle bushes and do a test fit of the Slater axles n wheels Then the drive rods n crank pin bushes to see if everything lines up, rolls across the bench beautifully Gearbox all soldered up Test fitted the motor and gearbox to chassis to work out spacers required to keep the wheel gear in line with the pinion gear on the motor Spacer arrangement and a little flat milled on the axle for the grub screw to seat on OOOH nice little thing First run of motor and gearbox, a bit noisy at first, with slight adjustment of the gears it runs smooth Drive rods back on, bolt it up and oil it and on to the rolling road Opening the regulator It runs beautifully and no adjustment needed- amazing Eoin

Hi I picked up a few odds n ends at the Stillorgan Show yesterday that could work on this project - motors, bogies and things.... This looks like an early spud motor? and is the most suitable and a chap brought in a Halling motor, to the show, to give me a look see, thanks Joe, great to see and photo it Should be able to get something going from this lot Eoin