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Posted
9 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

Now NCC No 16...

More plastic card and brass wire. Even more butchery...

 

The starting point, an unsuspecting Hornby 0-4-0 Pug...

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I used 10 thou plastic card to wrap and extend the tank  - easy to bend and glue down.

L&Y Pug chimney (LYR0001) from Wizard Models. Dome carved from dowel. Archer rivets. Can't remember where the buffers came from.

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Now the chassis. Plastic cylinders cut off. Connecting rods trimmed and drilled for 12BA bolts. New conrods and slide bars are Hornby spares (Ref: X8834W)from Peter's Spares.

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New cylinders cut from the plastic barrel of a disposable propelling pencil.

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And some weathering to finish. A scratch build might have been easier! Certainly more accurate. Next time 😄

 

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A Branchlines replacement chassis would be a good long-term upgrade for No16.

Built several locos with Branchlines Chassis including a pair of T&D 2-6-0Ts and an EM gauge Drewry 04 straightforward to assemble, all turned out to be reliable locos with excellent slow running characteristics 

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Posted

Thanks John, that’s worth considering. Their Drewry, in OO was my introduction to etched chassis building. Didn’t make a great job of it at the time but learned a lot from doing it and gained confidence to try again. 

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, jhb171achill said:

Absolutely superb. The scenic detail on this is magnificent. Very smooth-running little eng

The Hornby Desmond chassis has always been a good runner, as many 7mmNG users will confirm, though scaling it up certainly helps.

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Posted
On 28/2/2023 at 10:50 AM, Patrick Davey said:

Would love to tackle BCDR goods stock like this, how did you go about this Alan?

Some more info Patrick. Starting with the outside W Irons.

I used MJT etches from Dart castings to make these. The one to choose is 2299 Compensating Wagon W Irons (RCH/GWR type) which has the horseshoe shaped bits needed. The pack comes with 4 of these etches if memory serves. Only some of the parts are used.

IMG_5218.thumb.jpg.b4c404f212927d93ada19f55a837d858.jpg

 

Some delicate 'editing' of the required bits and a touch with a soldering iron gives you this...

IMG_1500.thumb.jpg.865fa76363e121e8bdddf1bfdd985ff2.jpg

 

The open wagons were the easiest to do -  a kitbash of the Slaters 4mm Midland Railways 3 plank dropside (Part no: 4029). Just glue the new bits on...

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The covered vans are based around resin casts from a master made with scribed plastic card, 1.0 x 1.5mm plastic strip (I used Evergreen 143) and 0.45 brass rod. The various brackets and strips are made from bits of sticky address label with rivets embossed.

Here's the master for a side and the silicone mould made from it...

IMG_1541.thumb.jpg.b7d36b02b00861c955fd0fba42c6744f.jpg

 

And here are the resin casts for one wagon...

IMG_1556.thumb.jpg.4a7b9556a90f0d94417727fa83aec2e3.jpg

 

For springs on these, some MJT white metal castings (MJT 2249: Midland Axlebox with spring); Everything attached with epoxy.

IMG_1578.thumb.jpg.e3c6c6745bf311a6b2443b980a0e9d23.jpg

 

The underpinnings are a bit primitive. Because of the dimensions I used for the ends, the standard 26mm pinpoint axle isn't long enough to reach the axleboxes.

This is the brake van. No brakes yet, bit of an oversight in a brake van 😆

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On reflection, it might be better to make up longer axles from 2mm rod and grind pinpoints onto the ends. If I'm honest these guys look better than they run.

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Cheers

Alan

 

 

 

  • Like 10
Posted

Seriously impressive Alan - thanks for having the foresight to take the 'in progress' photos, I suspect that I'm not the only one eyeing up those lovely BCDR vans....... might you consider making them available (for an appropriate fee of course!) to those of us who yearn for the day when they can build and operate an authentic BCDR layout.....?

Really enjoying this thread!

Posted

Thanks Patrick. I'd need to up my game a bit before I'd consider offering castings to anyone else. I'm still at the hit and miss stage with the process and my efforts so far have needed a lot of fettling to fit together properly. Some were unusable, either too thick or two thin (or both sometimes!). And the W Irons are a real faff. I remember thinking  "Enough!" after the third van. I haven't done any more since that first batch so I need to go back to it again and practise a bit more. Watch this space 🙂

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Posted

As Patrick said above - this is a very insightful how-to, particularly your techniques for the master versions. Providing the actual MJT part numbers too is very helpful to anyone wanting to build their own: especially those like me trying to figure out if we have what it takes to scratch-build 

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Posted
56 minutes ago, Flying Snail said:

As Patrick said above - this is a very insightful how-to, particularly your techniques for the master versions. Providing the actual MJT part numbers too is very helpful to anyone wanting to build their own: especially those like me trying to figure out if we have what it takes to scratch-build 

I would absolutely encourage you to give it a go FS. We probably all have drawers (or bins) full of failed projects but by trying, we learn and by learning, we get better at it. That's been my experience anyway. Cheers, Alan

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Posted
15 minutes ago, Tullygrainey said:

I would absolutely encourage you to give it a go FS. We probably all have drawers (or bins) full of failed projects but by trying, we learn and by learning, we get better at it. That's been my experience anyway. Cheers, Alan

Thanks, will definitely give it a go. I've a couple of Leslie's kits lined up to start me off and I recently picked up some Alphagraphix card kits which I think some others here have used as templates for scratch building

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Posted (edited)

Could not agree more. Get some cereal packets and have a go at cutting out rectangles. A large flat one, two short ones and two long ones - you have a flat wagon carcass. image.thumb.jpeg.8a7dcfc89e7df4fd66f0344eb342d5bd.jpeg

Edited by Galteemore
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Posted

Haven't done any resin casting for a while, but as Alan clearly shows, putting a bit of effort into making just one side and one end soon reaps rewards. Last time I looked (admittedly pre Covid), a kit cost about 30 or 40 quid. This includes the two part resin, plus the silicon goo to make the moulds. Probably enough for 20-50 wagons depending on scale, so ultimately good value and potentially a fair bit faster than 3D printing - ideal for a Luddite like me!

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Posted

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I was very privileged to enjoy a visit to Loughan Quay today, and I was quite lost for words by the sheer excellence of Alan's work - thank you Alan for your kind invite and generous hospitality!  Sadly my phone ran out of battery but the few photos I managed to take will give a flavour of the magnificence of this wonderful layout.  I also enjoyed a visit to Alan's O-16.5 narrow gauge masterpiece - feeling very lucky right now!

 

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Posted

Unbelievable work here Alan. The level of detail is mindblowing. Just wondering where you get your figures, particularly the three lads beside the C N wagon. (One with a mug of tea in his hand). Also , your company signage. Are the signs handmade or made to order, as you mention that they are named for your four great Grandfathers.? If handmade, fancy sharing techniques?. Thanks and well done again

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Posted

Yep, just lovely Alan. I loved the wagon rake too - but then I would say that?

Have you got my EDSS Co wagons as well? If not, PM me and I'll see if there's a spare one in the "Family" box at "Pettigo Fair".

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Posted

I must admit to being one of the guilty party  in asking to see pictures of the layout and I’m glad I did! This layout is just wonderful in every way, the detail, the colour and superb rolling stock is a delight to look at. Thank you for sharing. 

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Posted
On 2/3/2023 at 6:12 AM, Tullygrainey said:

Some more info Patrick. Starting with the outside W Irons.

I used MJT etches from Dart castings to make these. The one to choose is 2299 Compensating Wagon W Irons (RCH/GWR type) which has the horseshoe shaped bits needed. The pack comes with 4 of these etches if memory serves. Only some of the parts are used.

IMG_5218.thumb.jpg.b4c404f212927d93ada19f55a837d858.jpg

 

Some delicate 'editing' of the required bits and a touch with a soldering iron gives you this...

IMG_1500.thumb.jpg.865fa76363e121e8bdddf1bfdd985ff2.jpg

 

The open wagons were the easiest to do -  a kitbash of the Slaters 4mm Midland Railways 3 plank dropside (Part no: 4029). Just glue the new bits on...

IMG_1591.thumb.jpg.6a0b3c746140d438d16bad80a00f1509.jpg

BCDR8ton.thumb.jpg.f5bfa9711f878d011574788692a545c7.jpg

 

The covered vans are based around resin casts from a master made with scribed plastic card, 1.0 x 1.5mm plastic strip (I used Evergreen 143) and 0.45 brass rod. The various brackets and strips are made from bits of sticky address label with rivets embossed.

Here's the master for a side and the silicone mould made from it...

IMG_1541.thumb.jpg.b7d36b02b00861c955fd0fba42c6744f.jpg

 

And here are the resin casts for one wagon...

IMG_1556.thumb.jpg.4a7b9556a90f0d94417727fa83aec2e3.jpg

 

For springs on these, some MJT white metal castings (MJT 2249: Midland Axlebox with spring); Everything attached with epoxy.

IMG_1578.thumb.jpg.e3c6c6745bf311a6b2443b980a0e9d23.jpg

 

The underpinnings are a bit primitive. Because of the dimensions I used for the ends, the standard 26mm pinpoint axle isn't long enough to reach the axleboxes.

This is the brake van. No brakes yet, bit of an oversight in a brake van 😆

IMG_7043.thumb.jpg.d9d0d87459b04aaf5b7f0b347301b7dc.jpg

 

On reflection, it might be better to make up longer axles from 2mm rod and grind pinpoints onto the ends. If I'm honest these guys look better than they run.

IMG_1989D.thumb.jpg.f2f8f51c5fa02dd84650f47ad7c03ed4.jpg

 

Cheers

Alan

 

 

 

Really amazing stuff Alan!! Do you mind if I ask what (brand? I guess) you used for the mold and resin casting? I’ve been thinking of doing something similar but I’ve tried resin casting before (with non-train models), with mixed results. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, derek said:

Just wondering where you get your figures, particularly the three lads beside the C N wagon. (One with a mug of tea in his hand). Also , your company signage. Are the signs handmade or made to order, as you mention that they are named for your four great Grandfathers.? If handmade, fancy sharing techniques?. Thanks and well done again

Thank you Derek. Most of the figures on the layout are from the Monty's Models range sold by Dart Castings. The bloke leaning on the doorframe with the tea mug is MSV27: Worker (maybe he does work, sometimes. I've never seen it😄), the fellow with his hands in his pocket is MSV10: Porter (another busy individual) and the lad in the uniform is from one of those 'station staff' packs from Bachmann (I think)

The signage was all done on the computer using a word processor, in my case 'Pages' on an Apple iMac.

Regards, Alan

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Posted
10 hours ago, Johnny B. Good said:

Really amazing stuff Alan!! Do you mind if I ask what (brand? I guess) you used for the mold and resin casting? I’ve been thinking of doing something similar but I’ve tried resin casting before (with non-train models), with mixed results. 

Many thanks JBG. I used stuff from the Polycraft range which I bought on-line from MBFibreglass (www.mbfg.co.uk). They sell starter kits in various sizes with everything you need. I've no connection with the firm except as a satisfied customer. I found it fairly straightforward to use and it did what I needed it to. The components are mixed by weight which is easier that working with volumes. I used a small set of digital kitchen scales which were perfectly adequate for the job. Good luck if you have another go.

Regards, Alan

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Posted

Pretty much what I've used. The only issue I've found is that the silicon goo seems to have a shelf life. After 6-12 months, it increasingly won't set. The two part resin, used for the actual casting, lasts much longer.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/3/2023 at 3:26 PM, Tullygrainey said:

Thank you Derek. Most of the figures on the layout are from the Monty's Models range sold by Dart Castings. The bloke leaning on the doorframe with the tea mug is MSV27: Worker (maybe he does work, sometimes. I've never seen it😄), the fellow with his hands in his pocket is MSV10: Porter (another busy individual) and the lad in the uniform is from one of those 'station staff' packs from Bachmann (I think)

The signage was all done on the computer using a word processor, in my case 'Pages' on an Apple iMac.

Regards, Alan

thanks for the detailed reply Alan. Guess I will have to test out the quality of the  family printer and see what happens

Posted

 I always felt the quayside at Loughan was a bit too pristine for a working harbour so it's been cluttered up a bit...

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The good ship Wild Rose seems to have drifted off. That'll teach them not to tie her up properly.

 

A few more hidden corners round the back. Nobody about. Must be lunchtime.

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Alan

  • Like 9
Posted

Colour can be a really difficult thing to get right. While there is an enamel tinlet or acrylic bottle for seemingly every shade in creation, there are still variations and blending them together really is an art, rather than a science. That and careful observation of the real thing.

 Very well observed Alan!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

If the BCDR main line had survived into the 1960s, then the new CIÉ diesel locomotives may well have appeared at Loughan Quay:

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(It might have been possible for a new A class loco to have reached Newcastle (Co. Down) - the locos started arriving in Ireland a few months after the GNR closed the line to Newcastle in May 1955 but presumably the track was still intact during the rest of 1955 at least, so it might have been physically possible......?)

 

And with even more of a stretch of the imagination, had the line survived into the 1970s then NIR's Hunslet locomotives may even have reached Loughan Quay as well:

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With thanks to Alan for welcoming these unsual visitors to his absolutely stunning layout!

 

Edited by Patrick Davey
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Posted

I have used resin from Alex Tiranti , bought as a kit and found both resin and rubber had/have a very long shelf life.  I also found you have to be prepared to throw away unsatisfactory castings or repurpose them as grounded bodies. I also found a mix of thin superglue and talcome powder is good for fixing small holes etc;

  Thank you Alan for sharing your excellent layout and models. I'd travel a few miles if you exhibited  your layout!

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